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SECTION P:
THE TOOLBOX, LOWER DRAWERS:
Carb Cleaning Tools:
p1) Aftermarket CARB PASSAGES CLEANING WIRES KITS: these sets of small wire tip cleaners come in a handy aluminum flip-open case, and are essential for probing and cleaning some of the smallest internal passages within the carb bodies to push out and free up solidified fuel "gunk" and other obstructions before blasting the passages with cleaner and compressed air. The #6 and #7 size wires are the only sizes small enough to fit into the tiny jet passages and emulsion tube holes and clean them properly (without the risk of "re-sizing" the hole by mistake). NOTE: even the smallest #6 wire is too large to clean the starter jet down in the bowl! For that task, you'll need to order the correct bowl starter jet drill bits listed further below.
HCP950 Carb Passages MINI CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET, contains 13 wires (sizes #6 - 26) and a small flat file.
$ 12.95
HCP951 Carb Passages MINI-PLUS CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET. Same as the MINI set above, but contains an extra 3 (each) of the #6, #7, and #8 size wires (the smallest ones) so even if you ruin one, you'll have lots of spares (being so thin, they're very easy to break!). The miniature file---which you don't really need---is not included in this set.
$ 14.95
HCP953 Carb Passages MAN-SIZE CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET contains 22 small wire tip cleaners, sizes #6-45, in a handy aluminum flip-open case.
$ 17.95
ft2) Aftermarket twisted-stem WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSHES. The greatest tool ever invented for cleaning bored and threaded holes, such as in carb bodies, float bowls, even master cylinder piston bores. Available in either 18-8 stainless steel or brass, these brushes not only help make the job of cleaning parts so much easier, but also insure that threaded passages are clean, clean, clean and less likely to strip or deform when fasteners are inserted once again. All brushes have a "finger-loop" in the end to make twisting action easier. Stainless brushes will last longer and can clean more aggressively, so be gentle when using them on aluminum carb bodies and bowls. Brass brushes are gentle on soft metals like carb bodies, but require more effort to produce a cleaner surface and wear out more quickly.
Please see the complete assortment of sizes for these products listed in the "General Tools - Cleaning and Polishing Tools and Supplies" section in the previous post.
cps2) Aftermarket high-quality WET-OR-DRY FINISHING SHEETS. Since these don't contain "sand", we really can't call them "sandpaper", but you get the idea. A large assortment of ultra-fine finishing paper is just the trick to polish the vacuum pistons and piston bores in your carbs, or master cylinder and brake caliper bores, ridding them of any surface oxidation and minor imperfections that will create interference or friction and prevent the pistons from moving freely---causing all sorts of high-idle (and other problems) in your carbs, or dragging brakes in your calipers. Our recommendation is to start with the 400- or 600-grit paper and move up 200 grit at a time until you get the bores micro-polished to an incredible smooth finish. One 9.5" x 11" sheet of each size will be enough to do four carbs or one pair of calipers; use two sheets of the 5-1/2" x 11" super-fine grit paper.
Of course, this premium finishing paper is just the thing you'll need for prepping any painted surface for painting, too.
Please see the complete assortment of sizes for these products listed in the "General Tools - Cleaning and Polishing Tools and Supplies" section in the previous post.
z7) Aftermarket wire BOWL STARTER JET CLEAN-OUT TOOLS. As you will quickly discover if you ever try to clean or rebuild your carbs, the tiny, non-removable starter jet that is stuck wa-a-a-y down at the bottom of a drilled passage in the carb bowl is next to impossible to clean. For one, did we mention that the jet opening is TINY? And did I also mention that it's stuck way down at the bottom of a small passageway, and basically unreachable? AND THEREFORE, NO ONE EVER REALLY EVEN ATTEMPTS TO CLEAN IT OUT? And that a clogged starter jet not only means trouble starting and idling, but that starter circuit is actually also involved in idle and off-idle performance? Well, how do you actually clean it? Even the tiniest cleaning rod in our carb passage cleaning wire sets (above) aren't small enough to fit through this starter jet (it is THE smallest jet-passage in the entire carb)...
Well, here's how you clean it: with these jet clean-out tools. Just big enough to get through the jet, but not big enough to ENLARGE the jet (that's a huge no-no), these high-speed steel STARTER JET DRILL BIT or the STARTER JET WIRE PROBE TOOL. The drill bits can be gently rotated (but never "pushed", as it will break), while the stiff pointed-tip wire probe tool can be twirled to dig through the toughest of crud. This is the only way to properly clean these starter jets.
NOTE: these are TINY drill bits, and will not chuck into a standard drill chuck. You have to use a mini pin-vise attachment or do it carefully by hand.
COMPARISON: these drill bits are a mere 1-1/2" long, and as such, will disappear below the top "plane" of the bowl as it goes down into the jet. You will have to use a pair of very slim needle-nose pliers to grip the tip of this drill bit and rotate it! The probe tools have a long piece of semi-rigid steel wire attached at the end of a hand-held "pen" stick.
The drill bits are harder to manipulate, but do a better job since they have a "cutting edge" on the tip.
The probe tools are easier to manipulate, but don't do quite as good a job since they do not have any type of "cutting edge" on the tip....but are still sharp enough to "pick" through most types of sludge and build-up in the jet.
NOTE: The 1980-81 XJ650 carb bowls should have removable bowl starter jets, which will make your life a lot easier!
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/43931
HCP2296 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT, for Hitachi carb bowls used on all XJ650 (except Turbo) models and all 1981-83 XJ750 models.
$ 13.95
HCP2299 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT, for Hitachi carb bowls used on all XJ750E-II and XJ750RL models.
$ 13.95
HCP12929 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET WIRE PROBE TOOL, for Hitachi carb bowls used on all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, all 1981-83 XJ750 models, and XJ750E-II and XJ750RL models.
$ 12.95
HCP2293 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT, for Mikuni carb bowls used on all XJ550 models, XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, and XJ900 N/FN, and F models, and Hitachi carb bowls used on XJ700 air-cooled engines.
$ 13.95
HCP12927 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET WIRE PROBE TOOL, for Mikuni carb bowls used on all XJ550 models, XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, and XJ900 N/FN, and F models, and Hitachi carb bowls used on XJ700 air-cooled engines.
$ 13.95
P.S. how do you know when your starter jet is really, truly, zestfully clean? One of two ways:
a) shine a strong penlight or mini flashlight into the bottom of the bowl, where this jet passage "intake" is located. Look through the top of the bowl down into the jet passage "outflow" passage (this is the passage that the brass suction tube in the bottom of the carb body actually fits down into). Focus your eye carefully on the jet opening and make sure it's clean. P.S. it helps to do all this while in a darkened area.........see the picture "starter-jet.jpg" on page 2 of this forum thread topic for a great image of what you want to see!:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/4050
b) put the spray tip (you may have to gently shape the end of it to a fine point, see the video below) of a can of carb or brake cleaner into the intake opening of the starter jet and let rip a spray. A STEADY, FINE, POWERFUL STREAM OF FLUID WILL COME OUT OF THE OUTFLOW PASSAGE ON THE TOP OF THE CARB BOWL IF THE JET IS PERFECTLY CLEAN AND OPEN. I mean this stream will absolutely spit out a good 5-10 feet. If the stream isn't powerful and laser-like precise coming out of the jet, then the jet isn't zestfully clean.....
By the way, when using the spray-stream method of checking the jet, don't even THINK of putting your eye or face anywhere even NEAR the jet outflow path, unless you like a painful and potentially serious trip to the emergency room.
c9) Hitachi & Mikuni carbs THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAPS. The soft aluminum bodies of the carbs can take a severe beating over the years, especially as it concerns their threaded holes. Steel is harder than aluminum, so you know what's going to distort, deform, or strip first...the threaded bore holes. The following professional quality tool-steel metric cutting taps will allow you to either "clean-up" or re-thread distorted or stripped threads in all metals, soft (aluminum) to hard (steel). THE TINY THREADS OF THE IDLE MIXTURE SCREW PORT IS ESPECIALLY PRONE TO DAMAGE AND SHOULD BE "CLEANED" UP WITH A PASS OF A THREADING TAP.
HCP28194 Aftermarket carb body THREAD CHASER BASIC TAPS SET. This basic set of 6 taps contains all of the different sizes for the most commonly needed threaded holes on all Hitachi and Mikuni carb bodies. Almost all threaded will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired, especially to the smaller, more “fragile” threads on the mixture screw bores, the fuel and are jets threads, the bowl, hat, and bracket mounting holes, etc. Running thread taps thru all of these threaded holes in the carb bodies will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the upper and lower rack bracket holes, the float bowl attachment holes, the float bowl drain screw holes, the carb hat attachment holes, the Mikuni float valve seat bracket hole, Mikuni main jet needle retainer plate holes (inside the vacuum piston), all air jet and fuel jet holes, enrichment plunger lifter bracket holes, and throttle shaft butterfly valve mounting holes. Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. Note that unlike the complete taps set below (HCP28121), the taps for the Hitachi float valve seat and the choke plunger seat bores (on all Hitachi and Mikuni models) are not included in this set (those larger taps are what add significantly to the cost of the complete taps set). NOTE: due to the reality that you may use these tools only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
$ 99.95
HCP28121 Aftermarket carb body THREAD CHASER COMPLETE TAPS SET. This complete set of 9 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all Hitachi and Mikuni carb bodies. Almost all threaded will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired, especially to the smaller, more “fragile” threads on the mixture screw bores, the fuel and are jets threads, etc. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the carb bodies will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the upper and lower rack bracket holes, the float bowl attachment holes, the float bowl drain screw holes, the carb hat attachment holes, the choke plunger seat holes, the Mikuni float valve seat bracket hole, the Hitachi float valve seat hole, Mikuni main jet needle retainer plate holes (inside the vacuum piston), all air jet and fuel jet holes, enrichment plunger lifter bracket holes, and throttle shaft butterfly valve mounting holes. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you may use these tools only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
$ 149.95
HCP2398 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For use on all Mikuni idle mixture screw ports, and all Hitachi idle mixture screw ports with models using ultra-fine threaded idle mixture screws. NOTE: these threaded holes almost always need cleaning or re-tapping. Be careful when using these taps to make sure that you are cleaning and/or re-cutting the original threads, rather than any crossed/stripped threads that may be present. And beware the tiny needle tip hole at the bottom of the screw. Finally, note that the flat o-ring land (at the bottom of the screw hole) must not be damaged or gouged.......make sure that you do not run the tap in deep enough to damage that smooth land.
$ 14.95
HCP6335 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- all Mikuni carb bowl drain screw hole.
$ 12.95
HCP6336 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- all Hitachi and Mikuni throttle shafts where the butterfly valve screw on
- all models petcock faceplate mounting screw holes.
$ 9.95
HCP28202 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Mikuni and Hitachi synch screw threads in the throttle shaft brackets, and Mikuni and Hitachi idle speed bolt threads in lower rack bracket.
$ 12.95
HCP2396 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes:
- Hitachi air jet cover plate hold-down screw hole
- Hitachi carb "hat" hold-down holes
- XJ550 and XJ650 gas tank emblem screw holes.
- XJ550 Mikuni carb bowl-to-body.
- XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 Mikuni carb float valve seat clamp hold-down screw.
- All XJ-series original petcock vacuum diaphram cover plate and (some models) fuel outlet plate screws
- All XJ-series (except XJ750 Seca and XJ750 Euro models with cable-operated master cylinder) front and 1981 XS1100 Midnight Special front master cylinder cover hold-down screws.
- All XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), and XJ750 Seca original petcock fuel outlet cover plate screws.
NOTE: the carb hat threaded holes almost always need cleaning or re-tapping.
$ 9.95
HCP2397 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes:
- Hitachi upper rack mount screw holes.
- Hitachi float bowl mount holes in carb body.
- Hitachi pilot fuel jet hole in carb body.
- All models: gas cap mounting screw hole in all XJ-series gas tanks.
- Mikuni XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models carb "hat" screws.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 carb choke bracket screw.
- Mikuni XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models carb upper rack mount screws.
- Mikuni 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II carb lower rack mount screws.
- Mikuni XJ550 lower rack idle thumb screw bracket to lower rack bar.
- Mikuni FJ600, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 carb bowl-to-body screws.
- XJ1100 petcock drain screws.
- All XS1100 front master cylinder cover hold-down screws (except 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special).
NOTE: the gas tank cap mounting hole almost always needs chased or re-tapped (be careful about this when buying a used gas tank!).
$ 9.95
HCP2399 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as many other areas of the bike. This 6 x 1.00 pitch is a very common sized thread.
$ 19.95
- Hitachi HSC32 air compensator jet holes.
- Hitachi lower carb rack mount screw holes.
- Hitachi pilot and main air jets port holes (in carb throat, below vacuum piston).
- Hitachi carb bowl drain screw hole.
- All models: gas tank mounting holes for the petcock.
- All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting holes.
- Mikuni XJ550, FJ/FZ/YX600, XJ600 Seca Ii, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 lower carb rack bracket screw holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting holes are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP11028 tap below).
- XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolt holes.
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP11028 tap listed further below).
- Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
- All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolt holes.
- Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting hole.
- exhaust headpipe gas test bolt threaded hole in the bottom of each header pipe.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp.
- collector chrome cover retaining bolt hole (XJ1100 models)
- collector chrome cover rear retaining screw hole (XJ1100 models).
- XJ650 Turbo models, turbo housing hole for the right muffler “joiner pipe” mounting bolt holes.
HCP2400 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Hitachi float valve brass seat hole, and Mikuni starter / enrichment circuit (“choke”) brass plunger seat hole on all XJ550, FJ600, FZ600, YX600, XJ600, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, and XJ750-X carbs.
$ 14.95
HCP2401 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Hitachi starter / enrichment circuit (“choke”) brass plunger seat bore hole.
$ 12.95
HCP28133 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Mikuni starter / enrichment circuit (“choke”) brass plunger seat bore hole on all XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 carbs.
$ 23.95
HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
$ 17.95
NOTE: always use a proper thread-cutting oil or lubricant before using thread taps! Thin motor oils work fine when merely doing a "clean-up" thread chase; a real cutting fluid should be obtained if a threaded bore needs to be truly cut:
HCP2402 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into aluminum or other soft metal. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
HCP2403 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into steel or other ferrous metals. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
c9a) THREAD CHASER DIES. Unlike the thread taps listed above, these thread DIES are used to clean, restore, and repair threads on the threaded fasteners (screws, bolts, studs, etc.). These tools help restore that like-new feel to used bolts, and straighten and restore threads to allow for proper torque settings to be achieved and maintained. Unlike standard round dies, these dies feature cutting teeth within a standard “hex-nut” shape, so you can use a wrench or socket to hold the die and turn it over the fastener. Just like cleaning / chasing threaded holes with a tap, this task is easy to use, important to do, and when you’re done you’ll be glad you took the time to do the job properly! NOTE: these dies are not used to cut new threads (you need to use a “real” die for that purpose), and only to renew threads on non-hardened fasteners! Always lubricate the tool (or fastener) with a light oil or grease when using.
HCP28566 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m3 x 0.50 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although nor a common size fastener--- it’s tiny! --- there are more applications than what is listed below). Each:
$ 6.95
- Hitachi and Mikuni butterfly shaft retaining screws.
- all models petcock faceplate screws.
- all models many control switch internal screws
HCP28567 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m4 x 0.70 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although nor a common size fastener, there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- Hitachi carb hat screws
- 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II carb hat screws
- All models: lower fork tube drain screws
HCP28568 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m5 x 0.80 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a somewhat common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- Mikuni carb hat screws (except 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models)
- Hitachi and Mikuni carb upper rack bracket screws
- Mikuni lower rack bracket screws (1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models)
- Hitachi and Mikuni carb bowl mounting screws
HCP29361 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, proper size (m6 x 0.50 pitch) for all Mikuni and the ultra-fine threaded Hitachi pilot circuit mixture screws. This is a very handy tool to have in your kit. You’ll need to use the HCP29363 holder to secure the die, or use a set of large pliers or channel locks to hold this round die…..and as you might expect, holding the die with the proper tool holder is the much preferred method. Using both a thread tap (HCP2398) and this die will allow you to clean up both elements of a fastener system for a like-new pattern of thread engagement and performance….this is how professional rebuilders do it! NOTE due to the extremely fine-threads on these screws, it can be quite difficult to get the re-threading process started correctly, and you can easily “cross-thread” the screw if the start of thread engagement is “forced”. Each:
$ 13.95
HCP29360 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, proper size (m6 x 0.75 pitch) for all coarse-threaded Hitachi pilot circuit mixture screws and for Mikuni float bowl drain screws. This is a very handy tool to have in your kit. You’ll need to use the HCP29363 holder to secure the die, or use a set of large pliers or channel locks to hold this round die…..and as you might expect, holding the die with the proper tool holder is the much preferred method. Use both a thread tap (HCP6335) and this die will allow you to clean up both elements of a fastener system for a like-new pattern of thread engagement and performance….this is how professional rebuilders do it! Each:
$ 13.95
HCP29363 Aftermarket threading die TOOL HOLDER, captures and securely holds round die HCP29360 or HCP29361 above. This is the proper way to hold a die, and insures that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are chasing old threads or cutting new ones. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the die……..
$ 12.95
HCP28260 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m6 x 1.00 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- Hitachi lower carb rack mount screws.
- Hitachi carb bowl drain screw.
- All models: gas tank mounting screws for the petcock.
- All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting bolts.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 lower carb rack bracket screws.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting bolts are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP28261 die below).
- XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolts.
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP28261 die listed below).
- Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
- All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolts.
- Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting bolt or stud.
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- exhaust headpipe gas test port bolt fitted into the bottom of each header pipe.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp bolt (on models using the HCP2182 sized bolt).
- collector chrome cover retaining bolt (XJ1100 models)
- collector chrome cover rear retaining screw bolt (XJ1100 models)
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the right muffler “joiner pipe” mounting bolts.
- For any fasteners associated with the following fastener part number: HCP2182, HCP2264, HCP3572, HCP3926, HCP3933, HCP3935, HCP7107, HCP8351, and HCP8480.
HCP28261 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m8 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase).
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolts (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP28260 die above).
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have a single stud on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with dual tunnel studs use the HCP28260 die listed above).
- Some models: cylinder head-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, at the rear of the head (note these are not the cam chain tunnel studs.
- All shaft-drive models: middle gear output flange-to-crankcase bolts.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models: middle gear drive housing-to-crankcase mounting bolts.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp cinch bolt (on models using the HCP2181, HCP3925, HCP3927, or HCP3928 sized bolts).
- exhaust collector output pinch clamp cinch bolt (for muffler) for models used the HCP3925 or HCP4623 size bolts.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the exhaust collector stud in the turbo housing.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the threaded studs in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt used into the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolts used (for mounting of the vacuum actuator “can” to the turbocharger.
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolts (which thread into the frame) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2181, HCP2942, HCP3925, HCP3927, HCP3928, HCP3934, HCP3939, HCP4208, HCP4623, HCP4956, HCP6156, HCP16101, and HCP16244.
HCP28575 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m9 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 8.95
- XJ700 water-cooled and XJ750 water-cooled engines, cylinder head-to-upper crankcase long studs
HCP28577 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m10 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 8.95
- XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 engines, cylinder head-to-upper crankcase long studs.
- all XJ models left side mirror stem.
- Many models: front engine mounting bolts
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolt (the single bolt that passes thru the flange on the collector) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- all XJ1100 and XS1100 models exhaust hanger bolts.
- For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2250, HCP3929, HCP3930, HCP3931, HCP3936, HCP3937, HCP3938, HCP4049, HCP19940, and HCP21872.
HCP28262 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m10 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 5.95
HCP28579 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 8.95
- Many models: rear engine mounting bolts
HCP28263 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 5.95
HCP28264 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.75 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 5.95
HCP28580 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m14 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 25.95
- All models front and rear axle shafts (except XJ1100 and XS1100 rear axle shaft)
HCP28581 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m17 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ discontinued
- XJ1100 and all XS1100 rear axle shaft
HCP28582 Aftermarket SMALL THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains one each of the most commonly used smaller sizes: HCP28567 (m4 x .70 pitch), HCP28568 ( m5 x .80 pitch), and the HCP28260 (m6 x 1.00 pitch) chaser dies.
$ 21.95
HCP28583 Aftermarket LARGE THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains one each of the most commonly used smaller sizes: HCP28261 (m8 x 1.25 pitch), HCP28577 ( m10 x 1.25 pitch), and the HCP28579 (m12 x 1.25 pitch) chaser dies.
$ 23.95
HCP28585 Aftermarket COMPLETE THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains all of the most commonly used sizes: one each of HCP28567 (m4 x .70 pitch), HCP28568 ( m5 x .80 pitch), and the HCP28260 (m6 x 1.00 pitch), HCP28261 (m8 x 1.25 pitch), HCP28577 ( m10 x 1.25 pitch), and the HCP28579 (m12 x 1.25 pitch) chaser dies. Note that XJ700-X or XJ750-X owners will need to order the HCP28575 die (m9 x 1.25 pitch) separate in order to have a “complete” die set for those engines, as it is not included in this set.
$ 37.95
Carb Refinishing Tools:
Well, since you're going to spend the time and a lot of effort to make your carbs perform properly, why not also take them to "the final frontier"? Yes, performance is more important than appearance, but achieving a polished, "like-new" finish on your carb bodies is mostly just a labor of love, and time......rather than money.
Our special miniature POLISHING BRUSHES allow you to bring back the brilliant luster to the aluminum alloy carb bodies and bowls that makes them look showroom-fresh. Fitting into a standard high-speed dremel tool, these stiff bristle wire brushes not only remove the corrosion, discoloration, and oxidation that is typical of 30-year old carbs, but also leaves a smooth, sealed luster beauty that gives a truly professional touch to you restoration efforts.
These brushes can be used "as is", or, when combined with our coarse or fine-grit POLISHING POWDERS, makes the job that much easier and quicker. NOTE: in any case, plan on spending about 1-hour per carb to achieve a fully polished appearance.....it's tedious, but enjoyable, as you can easily see the progress as you go. ALSO.......perform the polishing procedure only after you have cleaned the carbs internally (via carb dip or other procedures), as many chemicals will react and dis-color the carb bodies!
As a final measure, we recommend spraying your newly polished bodies with our BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT.....it's fuel resistant and non-yellowing, and will allow your labors of love to retain their beauty for many years to come.
HCP16662 Aftermarket miniature POLISHING BRUSH, 1/8" shank stainless steel bristle wire high-speed brush quickly removes corrosion and surface imperfections without displacing metal. Depending on how badly the carbs are tarnished, figure on using 2 brushes per carb body. NOTE: always wear eye protection when using these brushes, as they will tend to "shed" bristle fragments as they are used. Each:
$ 9.95
HCP16662SET8 Aftermarket miniature POLISHING BRUSHES, set of 8:
$ 37.95
HCP11198 Aftermarket BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT WITH HARDENER. Requires 2-hours drying time to handle, and requiring just 18-24 days to fully cure. Once fully cured this clear-coat is chemical, oil, and fuel resistant, making it ideal for use on gas tanks, carbs, etc. NOTE: this clear coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 12-ounce spray can. 1 can will do a full set of carbs.
$ discontinued
DRIVETRAIN TOOLS:
NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
Clutch Tools:
HCP9237 Aftermarket clutch drum HOLDER TOOL. In order to install the clutch drum retaining nut HCP3204 above, you have to lock the clutch drum and prevent it from turning while the nut is torqued. Fits use with all XJ-series bikes. High quality, professional grade tool will last a lifetime.
$ 49.95
HCP10543 Aftermarket clutch drum HOLDER TOOL. In order to install the clutch drum retaining nut HCP3204 above, you have to lock the clutch drum and prevent it from turning while the nut is torqued. This tool uses a re-cycled drive plate to hold the basket while the nut is being removed or installed, thus spreading the load more evenly and equally than the HCP9237 tool listed above. Light-duty design is not recommended for shop use, but it works just fine for periodic (individual) use. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models.
$ 29.95
HCP10530 Aftermarket standard-depth 30mm SOCKET, 1/2"-drive thick-wall impact socket necessary to remove or install the HCP3204 clutch hub nut. Black, 6-point, 1-/2" drive.
$ 21.95
HCP10300 Aftermarket 3/8"-to-1/2" DRIVE ADAPTER. For use with the HCP10298, HCP10299, HCP10530, HCP11336, HCP22025, or the HCP22947 sockets, and the 10mm and 12mm HCP10302 stud extractors included in the HCP10301 tool kit. Most people have the standard 3/8" drive ratchet wrenches in their tool kits already, and the larger 1/2" drive sockets can be used with those ratchets with this converter/adapter. Chrome-plated, 1/2" male drive, 3/8" female receiver.
$ 13.95
HCP9972 Aftermarket precision CLICKER TORQUE WRENCH, 3/8" drive head, 20-200 inch-pounds (1.5 to 16 foot pounds), ratchet head and handle made of hardened steel for accuracy and durability. Scale is marked in both metric and SAE torque values for convenience. Comes in a plastic storage case. A good quality, affordable torque wrench for small fastener, low-torque applications. NOTE: please resist the temptation to "cheat" on low-value torque fasteners by using a high-value torque wrench (like the HCP9973 below) to set such fasteners. Torque wrenches, by their design, are only accurate within a certain range of torque values, and totally inaccurate above and below their designated range of values.
$ 89.95
Driveline Service Tools:
HCP9214 Aftermarket driveshaft REMOVER TOOL. Designed to be used with a slide hammer, this special "gear puller jaws" tool is designed to precisely fit around the large gear on the back end of the driveshaft and is used to "yank" and break the driveshaft free of the cross-joint splines, thus allowing the drive shaft to be removed through the rear of the swingarm. For all shaft-drive XJ-series bikes.
$ 99.95
HCP9211 Aftermarket middle drive gear SHAFT NUT REMOVAL SOCKET. Special thin, large diameter recessed hub socket needed to remove the bearing retaining nut on the middle drive gear. For use with all shaft-drive XJ-series except XJ1100 models.
$ 139.95
HCP9210 Aftermarket middle drive gear GEAR LASH MEASURING TOOL. For all XJ1100 models. This tool is designed to be used in conjunction with a dial indicator gauge.
$ 49.95
HCP9213 Aftermarket final drive input pinion gear PINION GEAR REMOVER ADAPTER TOOL. Designed to be used with a slide hammer, this special adapter screws onto the input gear shaft and then you can "bang" it out with a slide hammer tool. For all shaft-drive XJ-series bikes.
$ 89.95
HCP9291 Aftermarket final drive input pinion gear BEARING RETAINER WRENCH. The input shaft bearing is retained by a special retaining ring that requires this pegged drive socket to remove. For all shaft-drive XJ models except XJ1100 models.
$ 119.95
HCP9212 Aftermarket final drive input pinion gear coupler GEAR HOLDER TOOL, necessary for measuring and setting the gear lash correctly or for removing the final drive input shaft. For all XJ-series shaft-drive models.
$ 189.95
HCP9209 Aftermarket final drive output ring gear COLLAR, OIL SEAL, and ROLLER BEARING INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL TOOL SET, necessary for proper removal and installation of these parts. Set of two tools, one for removal and the other for installation. For all XJ-series shaft-drive models.
$ 169.95
dd2) Aftermarket camshaft and drive chain CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOLS, needed to properly break and rivet a master link onto the replacement chains.
NOTE: most replacement cam chains are sold as an "endless chain", meaning it comes riveted together. In a situation where you have the engine all apart, it can be used as is, because you'll have side access to the gear on the crank. If you will be installing a new chain into an assembled engine, then you will have to break one of the links in order to "drop and drape" the chain over the crank gear.......and thus will also need a new master link in order to put the chain back together again. Almost all OEM chains are” joined” chains (they originally use a removable, rivet-style master link), and when replacing he master link the new link will need to be peened in place (rivet-style master links cannot be re-used).
NOTE: most drive chains are joined together with a rivet-style master link (some chains use a clip-style master link, which requires a different procedure than what is illustrated below). Here are some good instructions on how to properly peen a rivet-style master link. Although the forum thread on the XS650 website shows this procedure being performed on a camshaft chain, the same idea applies to drive chains, too:
Here are some good instructions on how to properly peen a rivet-style master link:
www.xs650.com/threads/peening-cam-master-link.51510
www.youtube.com/watch?v=sM022oIyIC8
HCP8607 Aftermarket cam chain BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL.
$ 129.95
HCP26915 Aftermarket camshaft and drive chains CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL SET. A decent quality toolkit for occasional (home) use, it contains a complete set of 3 different size drive tips, a hollow-nose pin rivet tip, chain side plate press tool, alignment bolt and push bolt, handles, and special guide pin adapters, all contained within a durable plastic case. This kit can break cam, oil pump, and drive chains up to the # 630 size, press master link plates on chains up to # 530, and rivet hollow-nosed master link pins on chains up to # 630. It will not perform solid-nosed riveting. NOTE: most chain-drive XJ bikes of this era used size #520 or #530 drive chains (depending on model).
$ 89.95
HCP9203 Aftermarket camshaft and drive chains CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL SET, A professional quality tool designed for heavy-duty home or shop use. Contains a complete set of 3 different size drive tips, a hollow-nose pin rivet tip, chain side plate press tool, alignment bolt and push bolt, handles, and special guide pin adapters, all contained within a durable plastic case. This kit can break cam, oil pump, and drive chains up to the # 630 size, press master link plates on chains up to # 530, and rivet hollow-nosed master link pins on chains up to # 630. It will not perform solid-nosed riveting. NOTE: most chain-drive XJ bikes of this era used size #520 or #530 drive chains (depending on model).
$ 119.95
HCP9204 Aftermarket 2.2mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP9205 Aftermarket 2.9mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP9206 Aftermarket 3.8mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP9207 Aftermarket WEDGE RIVETING TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP9689 Aftermarket drive chain PULLER TOOL. This double-pin lateral puller hooks into two adjoining pins and allows a new, tight chain to be pulled together enough to allow the insertion of the master link.
$ 21.95
HCP9201 Aftermarket drive chain GRUNGE BRUSH. This unique design brush cleans all three sides of the drive chain on one pass. Fits all chain-drive bikes (and chain sizes) via an adjustable feature. Use with your favorite solvent.
$ 23.95
HCP9202 Aftermarket drive chain grunge brush REPLACEMENT PADS SET, for the HCP9201 brush listed above. Set of three replacement pads.
$ 9.95
HCP23864 Aftermarket drive chain GRUNGE BRUSH. This unique design brush cleans all three sides of the drive chain on one pass. Fits all chain-drive bikes (and chain sizes) via an adjustable feature. Use with your favorite solvent. Unlike the HCP9201 brush above, this version does not have replacable pads.
$ 19.95
ELECTRICAL TOOLS:
Electrical and Ignition System Tools:
NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
General Electrical System Tools:
et1) Aftermarket electrical test MULTIMETERS, the most useful tool you'll ever own for working on electrical systems. These professional-grade test instruments make your life easier, and give you the accurate measurements needed to diagnose and track down electrical system issues.
Here are some good reviews that shows you how to use one to do various electrical system tests and troubleshooting:
http://nadp.sws.uiuc.edu/cal/PDF/MulltimeterUse.pdf
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter?_ga=1.238289411.262114863.1436923213
http://www.masonmonitoring.com/pdf/support/UsingMultimeter.pdf
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-read-a-schematic
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec12.pdf
HCP7135 Aftermarket ANALOG (moving needle) MULTIMETER, more accurate than digital meters but a bit less user-friendly. These 6-function meters measure DC voltages (0-100), AC voltages (0-750), Resistance (0-10 megaohms), DC Current (0-10A), and has a small battery testing dial. NOTE: this multimeter does NOT have the capability to perform diode-checking, which can be a useful function when working on these bikes (although, to be honest, a diode failure is a rare event).
$ 89.95
HCP7136 Aftermarket DIGITAL (numerical LCD display) MULTIMETER, less accurate than analog meters but a bit more user-friendly. This 5-function meters measure DC voltages (0-1000), AC voltages (0-700), Resistance (0-2 megaohms), DC Current (0-10A), and Diode Checking. NOTE: this multimeter DOES have the capability to perform diode-checking, which can be a useful function when working on these bikes (although, to be honest, a diode failure is a rare event). Accuracy: DC voltage +/- 0.7%, AC voltage +/- 1.2%, DC current +/- 1%, Resistance +/-1%.
$ 89.95
HCP10589 Aftermarket TIMING LIGHT, inductive pickup 12V powered stroboscopic timing light is used to check the proper functioning of your ignition system at the pick-up coils. Alligator clips for easy power hook-up to the battery, and a clamp-over inductive feed clips over the #1 plug wire. Super-bright xenon-bulb makes daytime use possible.
$ 49.95
cps2) Aftermarket high-quality CROCUS CLOTH. Unlike sandpaper or emery paper, crocus cloth is a super-fine, cloth-backed soft abrasive that doesn’t “shed” particles during use, and is just the thing for burnishing and polishing of copper electrical contact, like the alternator rotor and starter motor commutators. Sold in a 2” wide x 1-foot long strip, enough for polishing many a commutator or contact.
HCP21378 Aftermarket strip of CROCUS CLOTH, measures 12” x 2”. Each:
$ 4.95
NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.
HCP9762 Aftermarket miracle-goo black LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE is easier to use than traditional tape products, especially in close-in locations. Great for sealing crimped wire terminal ends to the wire and serves as a good alternative or supplement to shrink tubing. Just brush it on and let it dry! Comes in a 4-ounces brush-top can.
$ 12.95
HCP10508 Aftermarket electrical CONTACT CLEANER is a good general purpose cleaner and de-greaser. Will not harm plastic terminal connector blocks. Fast drying and leaves no residue. Comes in a 16-ounce aerosol can.
$ 14.95
Battery Tools and Testers:
HCP10448 Aftermarket battery testing HYDROMETER. This is a real hydrometer, not the cheapo 4-dollar special you usually see at the auto parts store. It measure the specific gravity of the electrolytic fluid, which is the proper way to test its condition. Those little "floating balls" testers are barely worth the plastic that they're made of! This professional hydrometer gives you temperature-adjusted specific gravity readings, which is the only accurate method of measurement. And yes, you can use these on your car or tractor or boat battery, too........
$ 18.95
HCP10542 Aftermarket battery testing MINI-HYDROMETER. This is a cheapy, "floating ball" style hydrometer, but it's small size makes it easier to use on motorcycle batteries. It's better than not having one at all! And yes, you can use these on your car or tractor or boat battery, too........
$ 14.95
fbc3) Aftermarket automatic BATTERY CHARGERS. A fully automatic battery charger is the best type to use to provide "trickle charge" to deep-cycle batteries, as it prevents the overcharge conditions that dramatically reduce the life of a battery.
HCP9962 Aftermarket automatic BATTERY CHARGER, standard bench-top style. Features that a 1.5A charger rate can be used to re-charge a dead battery quickly or maintain a trickle-charge for batteries that see infrequent use. Automatically changes from full-charge to float-mode monitoring for the extended battery life and no worries about over-charging. Reverse-hookup protection, LED power-on/charging/charged indicator lights, CSA-certified, and comes with both 50A standard spring clamps or the easy-to-use permanent plug-in connector to permanently attach a charging "pigtail" connector to the battery for instant access. Can be safely used on conventional and AGM style batteries; not recommended for gel-cell batteries.
$ 79.95
HCP28172 Aftermarket fully automatic BATTERY MAINTAINER-CHARGER. This compact wall-transformer style 6V and 12V charger features the latest solid-state, intelligent technology that allows quick, safe, and efficient charging of all battery types: conventional lead acid, maintenance-free lead acid, marine deep-cycle, AGM, gel-cell, and even lithium-ion. Features include: will safely charge even a fully dead battery (one that reads 0 volts), an automatic “de-sulphation” mode that can rescue and extend the life of older batteries, a thermal compensation sensor to prevent under- or over-charging, short-circuit protection, open-circuit protection, over-heat protection, over-charge protection, reverse-hookup protection, and spark protection. Can be hooked directly to the battery terminals with included ring terminals (a water-proof disconnect port is built into the 9-foot long lead wires), or you can use it with the included thin, “needle-nose” style clamps. Automatically changes from full-charge to float-mode monitoring for extended battery life and no worries about over-charging…..you can actually leave this charger hooked up to your battery 24/7 for as long as you want (like, all winter long……..) without risking battery damage (in fact, for all conventional lead-acid batteries, you should attempt to maintain it at 100% charge to maximize the battery life). Works on 110-240V AC current, 1-amp (max.15W) charging current, water-proof housing, 3-year warranty. This is most affordable and best “home-use” battery charger on the market/
$ 49.95
HCP28173 Aftermarket fully automatic BATTERY SUPER-CHARGER, all the same features as the HCP28172 above, but this charger feature more power output (2A, max. 30W charging current) and is a “mini-tabletop” design…..about 5.5” x 2.5”….no bigger than a typical computer mouse!
$ 79.95
HCP10449 Aftermarket automatic BATTERY CHARGER, compact wall-transformer style. Features that a 1.3A "pulse-mode" charger that can be used to re-charge a dead battery or maintain a trickle-charge for batteries that see infrequent use. Automatically changes from full-charge to float-mode monitoring for the extended battery life and no worries about over-charging. Comes with both alligator clips or the easy-to-use permanent plug-in connector to permanently attach a charging "pigtail" connector to the battery for instant access. Can be safely used on conventional and AGM style batteries; not recommended for gel-cell batteries.
$ 89.95
HCP10451 Aftermarket automatic BATTERY MAINTENANCE CHARGER, compact wall-transformer style. Features that a 800ma (0.8A) charger rate, perfect for maintaining a trickle-charge for batteries that see infrequent use. Automatically changes from full-charge to float-mode monitoring for the extended battery life and no worries about over-charging. Reverse-hookup and short-circuit protection, LED power-on/charging/charged indicator lights, waterproof, and comes with both alligator clips or the easy-to-use permanent plug-in connector to permanently attach a charging "pigtail" connector to the battery for instant access. No bigger than a typical computer "mouse"! Can be safely used on conventional and AGM style batteries; not recommended for gel-cell batteries.
$ 69.95
HCP10452 Aftermarket battery charger EXTENSION CABLE, 12-foot length. Don't want to bring your bike over to your charger? Then this set of 12-foot long charger-to-battery leads extender cable allows you to leave the battery charger close to a wall outlet, and extend the power leads to wherever your bike is located! Quick-connect feature allows plug-and-play installation with all of the above chargers. Very convenient.
$ 24.95
et3) Aftermarket motorcycle-sized BATTERY JUMPER CABLES. Small sized end clips more easily reach into the cramped areas where your battery lives, making it somewhat easier to jump-start a dead bike. NOTE: NEVER attach jumper cables to your battery unless your ignition key is OFF......or your risk frying a lot of expensive electrical components!
HCP1608 Aftermarket 5-foot long standard duty JUMPER CABLES, with alligator clip ends.
$ 37.95
NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.
HCP10493 Aftermarket battery post TERMINAL SEALER helps keep corrosion from forming on the battery terminals. Fast drying and leaves no residue. Comes in a 6-ounce aerosol can.
$ 12.95
HCP10540 Aftermarket acid-neutralizing BATTERY MAT, thin felt mat with pressure-treated with a battery-acid neutralizing chemical. Easily placed directly under the battery, it prevents any spills or discharge from the battery from doing damage to your paint, frame, etc. Trim to fit your battery box with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. For all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models.
$ 9.95
HCP10541 Aftermarket acid-neutralizing BATTERY MAT, thin felt mat with pressure-treated with a battery-acid neutralizing chemical. Easily placed directly under the battery, it prevents any spills or discharge from the battery from doing damage to your paint, frame, etc. Trim to fit your battery tray with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. For all XJ1100 models.
$ 13.95
HCP10580 Aftermarket acid-neutralizing BATTERY TERMINAL PROTECTORS, thin, round felt mat circles are pressure-treated with a battery-acid neutralizing chemical. Placed under the battery terminal posts, they help prevents any spills or discharge from the battery from creating terminal corrosion. Trim and size to fit your battery posts with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. Order 1 per terminal, 2 per battery. Each:
$ 3.95
Spark Plug Tools:
HCP8674 Aftermarket deep-reach thinwall SPARK PLUG SOCKET, copy of the original tool used on XJ550 and 1984-85 FJ600 models. Includes the short "breaker bar".
$ 19.95
HCP9721 Aftermarket deep-reach thinwall SPARK PLUG SOCKET, copy of the original tool used on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, all XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900RK, RL, N, F, and FN models, and all XJ1100 models. Includes the short "breaker bar".
$ 19.95
The following aftermarket PLUG SOCKETS are special deep-reach, thin wall design tools that are specially designed to allow use on XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, where the spark plug lives deep inside a recessed well on the cam cover. Typical plug socket tools are far too big in their outside diameter to fit into this well. Although not necessary, these sockets will also work fine on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, and XJ900 S/SH model spark plugs also.
HCP9691 Aftermarket deep-reach thinwall SPARK PLUG SOCKET, copy of the original tool used on all XJ700-X water-cooled and XJ750-X water-cooled models models. Has a 17mm hex at the top end of a tool to accept a socket or wrench.
$ 19.95
HCP8552 Aftermarket deep-reach thinwall SPARK PLUG SOCKET, 3/8" square drive, needs to be used with a 3" extension to clear the valve cover on all "X" models.
$ 27.95
HCP9123 Aftermarket 3" socket EXTENSION BAR, chrome plated, 3/8" drive, for use with the HCP8552 socket above. Each:
$ 11.95
HCP8430 Aftermarket deep-reach thinwall SPARK PLUG SOCKET, 3/8" square drive, 13/16" hex wrench drive, or can be used with a straight round breaker bar, requires the use of a 1"-to-1.75" extension to clear the valve cover on all "X" models.
$ 34.95
HCP9124 Aftermarket 1-3/4" socket EXTENSION BAR, chrome plated, 3/8" drive, for use with the HCP8430 socket above. Each:
$ 11.95
HCP28131 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- 12mm spark plug holes on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, 1987 FZ700, 1986-87 FZX700 Fazer, 1985-86 and 1988 FZ750, 1987 FZR750R, and 1987-88 FZR1000 engines. This deep-reach tap has a socket-drive head for constricted-space clearance, and will allow access to the plug hole even in the recessed XJ700-X / XJ750-X heads.
$ 2795
HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
$ 17.95
HCP6378 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- 14mm spark plug holes on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled heads, all XJ750 air-cooled heads, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 engines. For use by hand or with a 13/16" socket. Each:
$ 16.95
HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
$ 17.95
NOTE: always use a proper thread-cutting oil or lubricant before using thread taps! Thin motor oils work fine when merely doing a "clean-up" thread chase; a real cutting fluid should be obtained if a threaded bore needs to be truly cut:
HCP2402 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into aluminum or other soft metal. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
HCP2403 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into steel or other ferrous metals. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
spt22) Spark plug drain well BRUSH and BLOCK-OFF PLUGS allow you to clean out the water-drain wells in the cylinder heads on all XJ700-X and XJ750-X (water-cooled) engines. These drain passages are only accessible by removing the cylinder head decorative, ribbed side covers (which will expose the small, center well drain-hole on the side of the head). This passage hole is used to drain water and associated grit and gunk from the spark plug wells on each side of the head (i.e. the left side hole drains plugs #1 and #2; the right side hole drains wells on the #3 and #4 plugs). Clogged drain ports allow water and other junk to build up in the plug wells, with predictable results. Our extra-long WIRE-BRISTLE BRUSH is the correct size and depth to purge these passages, while the BLOCK-OFF PLUGS replace the spark plugs while the cleaning procedure is being performed (the spark plugs must be removed to allow the brush clearance to pass all the way thru the passage).
The procedure to clean these wells ---- which, by the way, is not mentioned at all in the service manual ---- is as follows:
1) remove the decorative head side cover.
2) remove the spark plug cap/boot…….leave the spark plugs in for now.
3) using compressed air, blow out any debris in the wells.
4) remove the two spark plugs on that “side” of the head you are working on.
5) install the low-profile block-off plugs into the two spark plug holes.
6) use the wire-bristle brush to clean out the drain passage completely. Any debris will be “pushed” into the plug wells (that’s why you need to install the block-off plugs!).
7) using compressed air, blow out any debris in the wells.
8) remove the low-profile block-off plugs, and re-install the spark plugs, plug cap/boot, and decorative side cover.
9) repeat steps 1-8 for the other side.
10) this procedure should be done once every few years or so.
HCP21394 Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, perfect size for cleaning out the spark plug well drain passage in the cylinder head of all the built-up gunk and debris. For use on all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines..
$ 9.95
HCP21367SET2 Aftermarket spark plug hole BLOCK-OFF PLUGS, these low-profile plugs are the correct size to replace the spark plugs while cleaning out the spark plug well drain passage in the cylinder head. For use on all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.. Set of 2 plugs:
$ 13.95
HCP21998 Aftermarket spark plug well drain passages CLEAN-OUT KIT, contains the HCP21394 brush and two of the HCP21367 plugs, everything you’ll need to perform the cleaning procedure.
$ 21.95
HCP20451 Aftermarket spark plug wire terminal CRIMPING TOOL. This basic, 7-function hand-crimp tool incorporates wire butter, terminal crimper, and wire stripper functions into one handy tool. Black anodized finish with insulated hand grips, crimp slot on end of tool secures most ignition terminals including "W" type, right angle and "High Tower" terminals. Will crimp 7mm to 8.5mm plug wire, and works with 10- to 22-gauge solderless terminals.
$ 49.95
HCP9739 Aftermarket spark plug wire terminal CRIMPING TOOL. This high-quality, professional grade ratcheting tool is easy-to-use feel, but will still achieve a complete and thorough crimp of the wire terminals to the plug wire, preventing future separation or electrical resistance issues. The right tool for the job makes life easier......
$ 89.95
Neutral Switch Tools:
NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: since this tool is a one-time or infrequent use tool, it may be more economical for you to rent it from us, rather than to purchase it outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
HCP15718 Aftermarket neutral position switch REMOVAL SOCKET. On many models, it's almost a physical impossibility to remove the HCP443 (or the aftermarket version, HCP15671) neutral switch from the crankcase "well" without removing the exhaust system or removing the engine from the frame.....the left lower frame tube conspires with the exhaust system to make it unbelievably difficult to access the switch. This special "open side" socket is the proper size to squirm through those restricted spaces and make it possible to remove and re-install the position switch without going through a tremendous amount of effort. Standard 1/4" drive socket should be used with a 3" extension bar, or, it's even easier to use when attached to the HCP13516 flexible shaft driver listed below. NOTE: this tool will not help you on XJ650 Maxim models with the stock exhaust system, as the crossover pipe is in the way and prevents access of even this tool.
$ 21.95
HCP13516 Aftermarket flexible "spring shaft" 1/4" SOCKET DRIVER TOOL, just the thing to use with the HCP15718 socket above to reach the neutral switch. Large plastic handle with 6" long flexible shaft.
$ 19.95
Alternator Tools:
ap7) Aftermarket alternator ROTOR REMOVAL TOOLS, correct copy of the factory Yamaha tool needed to remove the alternator rotor from its mounting shaft (the rotor is a friction fit onto the tapered end of the alternator shaft). Designed to be used in conjunction with the HCP6495 rotor puller tool Attachment Tool listed below. The use of these two tools allows you to safely and properly remove your rotor without damaging either the rotor or the rotor shaft. For all XJ550 thru XJ1100 models.
HCP1404 Aftermarket ROTOR REMOVAL TOOL, screws into the threaded hub of the alternator, heavy-duty shop-grade tool.
$ 19.95
HCP21905 Aftermarket ROTOR REMOVAL TOOL, screws into the threaded hub of the alternator. Less expensive version than the shop-grade version tool HCP1404.
$ 14.95
HCP6495 Aftermarket ROTOR REMOVAL ATTACHMENT, slides into the end of the internally threaded alternator shaft and prevents the tip of the HCP1404 from "mushrooming" the end of the shaft.
$ 7.95
HCP10236 Aftermarket TORX-DRIVE SOCKET, fits standard 3/8"-drive ratchets. Has the proper size torx-driver bit included. NOTE: this socket can be used with a 3/8" drive impact driver (such as our HCP9706 impact wrench set) but it is not rated for impact wrench use. However, since you will most likely only be using the bit one time (to loosen the 3 bearing housing screws), then you should be able to accomplish the task, and purchase a replacement bit if necessary.
$ 17.95
HCP10237 Aftermarket replacement TORX-DRIVE BIT, fits the above socket.
$ 5.95
WIRE ASSEMBLY and SOLDERING TOOLS:
Wire Cutter, Stripper, and Terminal Crimper Tools:
These professional-grade tools put the discount chain-store variety to shame. If you want strong and secure connections when you're done, don't try to save a few dollars on inferior quality tools. There's absolutely nothing more frustrating than have a wire stripper that pulls the wire strands out (along with the insulation) because it's pivot point won't hold a setting, or because the round holes were not cut to the proper depths. And terminal crimper tools that have an incorrect or poor tolerance profile just won't ever crimp tightly enough, and then the wire will pull out of the terminal crimp----no matter how hard you squeeze!
Proper wire terminal installation techniques can be reviewed at:
http://www.xj4ever.com/crimping my style.pdf
and here’s how to properly solder a connection:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281500
HCP13112 Aftermarket standard-duty WIRE CUTTER and STRIPPER TOOL. Designed for 10-22 gauge stranded copper wire only, this tool features precision-cut holes for wire insulation stripping, as well as high-carbon steel precision scissors-type blades for straight-cut, flush end wire cutting. Highly visible AWG and mm wire gauge sizes are embossed into the handle as well as color-coded. The tapered end of the base allows you to pull and twist frayed wire ends back into a tight strand. Soft comfort handles.
$ 29.95
HCP13113 Aftermarket heavy-duty WIRE CUTTER and STRIPPER TOOL. Designed for 12-20 gauge stranded copper wire only, this tool features precision-cut holes for wire insulation stripping, as well as stainless steel, nick-resistant scissors-type blades for straight-cut, flush end wire cutting. AWG wire gauge sizes are embossed into the handle. The tapered end of the base allows you to pull and twist frayed wire ends back into a tight strand. Curved, soft comfort-grip handles.
$ 49.95
HCP13223 Aftermarket heavy-duty WIRE CRIMPER, STRIPPER, and CUTTER TOOL, professional grade for use with original style "open-barrel" wire terminals. Although this crimper is not a ratchet-design, its long lever arms produce enough force to properly secure the wire to the terminal, vastly simplifying its use and performance. For 14-22 gauge wire terminals.
$ 129.95
HCP13065 Aftermarket heavy-duty WIRE CRIMPER TOOL, designed for use with original style "open-barrel" wire terminals. This crimper is a ratchet-design that will not release until the crimp is fully completed, vastly simplifying its use and performance. For 12-22 gauge wire terminals.
$ 79.95
HCP14583 Aftermarket super-duty WIRE CRIMPER TOOL, for use with original style "open-barrel" wire terminals. This crimper is a ratchet-design that will not release until the crimp is fully completed. For 12-22 gauge wire terminals. A professional level tool, combines ease of use while achieving crisp and consistent final crimp quality.
$ discontinued
HCP13066 Aftermarket heavy-duty WIRE CRIMPER TOOL, designed for use with aftermarket style "closed-barrel" wire terminals (such as with butt connectors, or other style terminals with a hollow metal receiver tube that the wire fits into before crimping). This crimper is also a ratchet-design that will not release until the die set if fully closed, and thus the crimp is fully completed. For 10-22 gauge wire terminals.
$ 69.95
Terminal Removal Tools:
Once a wire-end terminal is inserted into its connector shell, a small metal "spring-tab" or "tongue" locks the terminal into a recess in the connector shell, thus preventing the terminal and wire from coming back out of the shell. Think of it as the terminal equivalent of the barb on the end of a fish-hook----easy going in, not so easy to get back out......
Of course, if you want or need to extract a terminal from its connector shell....for repair or replacement, for instance.....then you'll find the use of these TERMINAL REMOVAL TOOLS to be greatest thing since sliced bread. Proper width flat spring-steel blades formed into a rising wedge shape allows you to quickly and easily depress the spring-tab "hook" back up and into the terminal, thus "un-locking" the locking tab from the connector shell, and a quicky tug on the wire now releases the terminal from the shell. Works on all small, medium, and wide flat-blade style terminals only! Not for use on the round pin terminals.
HCP15686 Aftermarket small flat-blade TERMINAL REMOVAL TOOL, round plastic handle for ease of use.
$ 21.95
HCP15687 Aftermarket medium and large flat-blade TERMINAL REMOVAL TOOL, round plastic handle for ease of use. On some connector shells, this tool can also be used to release the small flat-blade terminals, too.
$ 21.95
Wire Solder and Soldering Guns:
While there is a unbelievably confusing array of solder choices, we've narrowed your choices down to one brand and type that we feel is the best: 3.5% SILVER BEARING, LEAD-FREE, ROSIN-CORE SOLDER. Let's go over those features one at a time:
a) Silver is the best material to use for small-wire electrical soldering, due to both the high-strength of silver and the exceptional electrical conductivity of silver (as opposed to lead solder).
b) Lead is a poisonous substance, and the soldering process has the potential to release lead fumes into the air....and into your eyes and lungs.....and that's just not a good thing, at all.
c) In the old days, solder was "pure" solder (be it lead-based, silver, etc.) and the cleaning flux was a separate material that had to be applied by hand. Modern "solder" is available with a central, internal flux core so that the cleaning and de-oxidizing properties of the flux----which has a lower melting point than the solder itself----is released and performs the cleaning task on the wires and terminals immediately before the solder itself melts and flows. The miracles of modern technology at its best..........
NOTE: never use acid-core solder or an acid-based flux when performing electrical wire soldering!
Of course, you'll want to apply such solder with a professional-quality SOLDER GUN, and since you probably, just like the rest of us, only have two hands, then you'll quickly come to appreciate our super-handy WIRE HOLDER tool that allows you to clamp the wires properly in place before soldering, leaving your hands free for the solder feed and the handling of the gun.
HCP13067 Aftermarket standard-duty SOLDERING GUN SET, 120-volt, dual 100-Watt and 140-Watts power settings, tip temperatures of 900-F and 1020-F. An excellent 8-piece kit which includes the gun, the tin-plated copper soldering tip, a plastics heat-cutting tip, a flux brush, all enclosed in a hard-shell protective carrying case.
$ 69.95
HCP13068 Aftermarket heavy-duty SOLDERING GUN SET, 120-volt, dual 200-Watt and 260-Watts power settings, tip temperatures of 900-F and 1100-F. An excellent 8-piece kit which includes the gun, the tin-plated copper soldering tip, a plastics heat-cutting tip, a flux brush, all enclosed in a hard-shell protective carrying case.
$ 89.95
HCP13108 Aftermarket 3.5% SILVER BEARING, LEAD-FREE, ROSIN-CORE SOLDER, 15-foot spool contains enough material to solder many, many wire joints! 430-F solder melt temperature, .032" diameter solder wire size is just right for the type of wires you'll be working on.
$ 19.95
HCP13111 Aftermarket magnetic WIRE HOLDER - CLAMPS TOOL, a very useful gadget when trying to manipulate 2 (or more) wires and trying to solder at the same time. Adjustable spring-loaded alligator clips hold the wires steady and in alignment while you do the soldering; both the tool base and the clips are magnetic so that you can the tool on a metal surface without it walking, or the hex-shaped tool base allows it to be clamped into a vice for complete restraint of movement. You'll be glad your bought it!
$ 29.95
Wire Harness Tape:
Factory wire harness bundles were taped with a black electrically-insulating protective VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP to provide both an orderly routing of the main harness wires and for additional wire protection. We have the correct 19mm wide black, high-voltage, adhesive-backed, all-weather stretch tape to allow you to repair or re-tape your harness. NOTE: XJ750 Maxim models that used this hard-shell, plastic ribbed tubing to protect the wire bundles had the hard-shell tubing externally wrapped with this tape.
HCP12923 Aftermarket harness bundle VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP, black, 20-foot roll.
$ 8.95
HCP13134 Aftermarket harness bundle VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP, black, 66-foot roll, almost enough to do one complete harness.
$ 16.95
Additionally, most harnesses had a few short turns of COLORED VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP to provide visual identification of "what connector goes where?" during harness assembly and installation. Always located just by the connector shell, about 3-4 turns of this tape was used to both tape off any vinyl sleeve and to properly identify what the connector plugged into. Used primarily at the TCI connector (from the pick-up coils) and at the various small "cube" style relays (headlight relays, sidestand safety switch relays, etc.). Since all of these harness connector shells are the same style and type (4-position, horizontally oriented 2-over-2), this small tape wrap served as a way of indicating which of these many identical connectors went to which component.
HCP13130 Aftermarket harness bundle YELLOW VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP, 20-foot roll. Used by the pick-up coil harness connector (at the TCI) on XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, and at the headlight relay connector on all XJ550 models, all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, and all XJ750 Seca models.
$ 7.95
HCP13131 Aftermarket harness bundle RED VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP, 20-foot roll. Used by the pick-up coil harness connector (at the TCI) on 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim models, all '81-83 XJ750 models, and all XJ700 non-X models, and at the fuel pump relay connector on all XJ650 Turbo models.
$ 7.95
HCP13132 Aftermarket harness bundle BLUE VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP, 20-foot roll. Used by the pick-up coil harness connector (at the TCI) on all XJ550 models, at the emergency stop switch relay connector on all XJ650 Turbo models, and for the sidestand safety switch relay connector on all XJ550 models, all '82-83 XJ650 models, all XJ750 models, XJ900RK and XJ1100 models.
$ 7.95
HCP13133 Aftermarket harness bundle GREEN VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE WRAP, 20-foot roll. Used by the pick-up coil harness connector (at the TCI) on all XJ650RJ Seca and XJ1100 models.
$ 7.95
GAUGES SERVICE TOOLS:
Most original gauges are remarkably reliable and accurate, especially considering they are precise mechanical or electrical instruments that are exposed to the weather constantly. Gauge face fading is a common problem, and unfortunately is not an issue that we have a current solution for.
The other common issue with the main gauges (speedometer and tachometer) is noise or erratic performance:
Q: "While I was riding last Saturday, my speedometer started to make a squealing nose and the needle started to bounce at the 55-60 mph mark. What is the procedure for a cable fix, or do I just replace the whole cable? Or what are my other options?"
A: This type of problem could be caused by the speedo drive hub (on the wheel), the cable, or the speedo head unit.
You can try lubricating the drive cable (remove it from the bike, hold or hang it vertically, use brake clearer to blast all the old gunk out, and then re-lubricate it with motor oil). Once the “cable” is off the bike, then the inner drive cable (the actual drive cable) can usually be slipped out of the outer plastic sheath to make cleaning easier.
While the cable is off, you can test the speedo head itself using an drill with a proper size square drive socket (which will be the same size as the speedo cable squared drive end) and operate the speedo in this manner ---- the drill should be set to run in reverse, as the cable rotates CCW as you are looking at the back of the speedo (from the front of the bike looking backwards). Note that it may be difficult to reach the speedo drive input while the gauges and/or the headlight assembly are still on the bike.
Yamaha speedometers take a 2240:60 ratio to work properly. The 2240 = 60 MPH means that the cable spinning at 2240 rpm’s will read 60MPH. So you’ll need a drill capable of that speed.
If the speedo works properly when testing it in the above manner, then the issue resides with either the speedo cable (which, if not regularly cleaned internally and re-lubricated, will fail after several years) or the drive hub at the wheel. If the problem goes away, then you can move on to further testing of the cable itself. If the problem persists, the the internal mechanism needs servicing.
You can perform the same "drill test" as described above, but with the speedo drive cable connected at the speedo head, and disconnected at the wheel hub......and the far end of the speedo cable itself chucked into the drill (at the wheel hub end) and running the test again.
If the problem goes away, then you need to service or replace the speedo drive hub. If the problem continues, then it’s probably the internal gauge mechanism that needs cleaning or lubrication. This can be a tedious task and no guarantee of success. Here’s a useful guide; although shown on an XJ550 speedo head unit, they are all very similar, although the dis-assembly procedure may differ
Gauge mechanism servicing:
Cluster teardown:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/seca-550-instrument-cluster-teardown-with-pics.14948
Head lubrication:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/speedo-and-tach-dissection-with-pics.15303
NOTE: we strongly recommend that you do not remove (nor try to do so) the needle assembly from the gauge unit……it is clocked into a certain position, and removing the needle shaft almost always results in a non-operational gauge upon re-assembly.
For testing cable-driven instruments with a drill (as described above), the following tools may prove to be useful:
HCP29267 Aftermarket SQUARE DRIVE BIT, proper size to fit into the drive housing at the head unit for testing mechanical (cable-driven) speedometers and tachometers. 1/4" shank fits into standard power drill chucks. 2" overall length. On many models, to perform testing with this bit, you may need to remove the cluster from the bike, or remove the headlight bucket from the bike for access to the gauge cluster, and may need to use one of the flexible extension below to reach the back of the instrument.
$ 5.95
HCP29268 Aftermarket FLEXIBLE DRIVE EXTENSION, tightly-wound spring wire extension has 1/4" male and female square drive ends, so the male end can be fitted into a drill chuck and the female end accepts the HCP29267 bit above. Flexible shaft allows you freedom to maneuver around obstructions. 4" length.
$ 27.95
HCP29269 Aftermarket FLEXIBLE DRIVE EXTENSION, tightly-wound spring wire extension has 1/4" male and female square drive ends, so the male end can be fitted into a drill chuck and the female end accepts the HCP29267 bit above. Flexible shaft allows you freedom to maneuver around obstructions. 6" length.
$ 34.95
HCP29268 Aftermarket FLEXIBLE DRIVE EXTENSION, tightly-wound spring wire extension has 1/4" male and female square drive ends, so the male end can be fitted into a drill chuck and the female end accepts the HCP29267 bit above. Flexible shaft allows you freedom to maneuver around obstructions. 10" length.
$ 39.95
SECTION P:
THE TOOLBOX, LOWER DRAWERS:
ENGINE TOOLS:
NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
Oil Pressure Gauge:
The part that Yamaha forgot. In almost all high-performance engine settings, the measurement and knowledge of operating oil pressure is a vital part of operator information. These following kits allow you to monitor the engine oil pressure on a periodic or continuous basis, allowing you to monitor critical internal engine conditions.
NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
These engine OIL PRESSURE MEASURING KITS contains everything you’ll need to take periodic measurements of the engine oil pressure………something that Yamaha never provided a means to do, for some unknown reason(s). Periodically measuring the oil pressure in the your engine can provide clues as to the health of various engine components (not just the oil pump condition, but more importantly, bearing clearances….as excessive bearing clearances will “leak” pressurized oil and reduce oil pressure, thus leading to all sorts of problems). Thus keeping track of oil pressures over time is an important “maintenance” procedure, akin to checking cylinder compression pressure periodically.
This kit contain a specially made main oil gallery plug and a liquid-filled mini oil pressure gauge. The gallery plug replaces the left side factory gallery plug ----- the one directly below the left crankshaft end cover (which was actually called an “oil pump cover" by Yamaha, for some odd reason……). Once installed, you can run the engine and check oil pressures at various engine temps, and record the readings. Although you can leave the gauge installed permanently, we do not recommend this, as it does stick out past the pump cover and you risk damage of epic proportions if anything were to disturb it…….
Each kit comes with block-off plug, so that the gauge assembly can be removed while leaving the gallery plug in place; then, the block-off plug replaces the gauge assembly and creates a leak-proof solution, while leaving the gallery plug in place, ready to re-use (re-installation of the gauge) whenever is necessary.
And although Yamaha does not specify oil pressures for their engines, they do note that the oil pump relief valve is set to open at 64-78 psi, so you can use that as a guide.
HCP28415 Aftermarket engine OIL PRESSURE MEASURING KIT contains everything you’ll need to take periodic measurements of the engine oil pressure. Fits all XJ650 - XJ900 engines. Each:
$ 109.95
HCP28418 Aftermarket engine OIL PRESSURE MEASURING KIT contains everything you’ll need to take periodic measurements of the engine oil pressure. Fits all XS1100 engines. Each:
$ 109.95
HCP28678 Aftermarket engine OIL PRESSURE MEASURING KIT contains everything you’ll need to take periodic measurements of the engine oil pressure. Fits all XJ1100 engines. Each:
$ 119.95
Cylinder Compression Gauge:
Yamaha recommends that you perform a compression test every 5,000 miles or so, and that you should record the readings, per cylinder, for future comparison and evaluation. The acceptable readings (specified at sea level) are as follows:
To do a compression test properly, you should first make sure all of your engine valves are properly adjusted to their recommended clearances, as valves that are too "tight" (not enough clearance) will allow the intake or exhaust valve to be open more than is necessary, or at the wrong time within the compression stroke cycle, thus bleeding off compression that would otherwise be developed.
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/compression-test-xj650.113151
Do not use thread adapters or the like on your pressure gauge, as the added volume of air space within the adapter will reduce the indicated pressure readings.
a) make sure the engine is warm (at operating temperature).
b) remove all spark plugs, and then stick the plugs back into their caps and make sure the plugs are grounded to the cylinder head (or even better, disconnect your TCI unit).
c) remove the airbox filter lid and the air filter.
d) make sure the battery is FULLY charged, and remains so throughout the course of these tests! It is actually recommended that for purposes of compression testing that the TCI be un-plugged and jumper cables to a large capacity battery (i.e. car battery) be used to make sure that the cranking speed remains pretty constant between each reading. Slow or sluggish cranking speeds will reduce the indicated compression pressure. Yamaha specifies their compression pressures at 300 rpms (which is why the battery needs to be in good shape).
e) open the throttle FULLY and keep it open during testing.
f) crank the engine over until the needle stops advancing.
g) Let the starter cool down for a minute or so, then do the next cylinder, etc..
h) If the readings are below spec, then shoot about a teaspoon of motor oil into each cylinder, turn the engine over a few revolutions by hand or with the starter (to spread the oil around), and then re-test each cylinder using the above procedure.
i) compare the two results and analyze.
j) keep all of your figures, and note the date and mileage from your odometer, so you can compare the next time you take readings (every 5,000 miles or so).
The specified compression pressures should be:
XJ550 engines:
Minimum: 100 psi
Standard: 121 psi
Maximum: 135 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi
FJ600 engines:
Minimum: 142 psi
Standard: 156 psi
Maximum: 164 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi
XJ600 Seca II engines:
Minimum: 145 psi
Standard: 160 psi
Maximum: 167 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi
XJ650 and XJ750 air-cooled engines:
Minimum: 128 psi
Standard: 156 psi
Maximum: 171 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi
XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) engines:
Minimum: 128 psi
Standard: 156 psi
Maximum: 171 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi
XJ700-X and XJ750-X (water cooled) engines:
Minimum: 154 psi
Standard: 159 psi
Maximum: 165 psi
Max range allowable between highest and lowest readings: 14 psi
XJ900 engines:
Minimum: 114 psi
Standard: 142 psi
Maximum: 171 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi
XJ1100 engines:
Minimum: 128 psi
Standard: 142 psi
Maximum: 156 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi
NOTE: for readings taken at locations that are above sea level (ASL), the following correction factors should be applied to the readings that your gauge obtains:
- 500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.013 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 1000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.029 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 1500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.042 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 2000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.060 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 2500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.072 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 3000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.093 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 3500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.103 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 4000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.126 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 4500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.136 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 5000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.160 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 5500' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.172 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 6000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.196 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 7000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.233 to get a "true" compression reading.
- 8000' ASL, multiply your readings by 1.272 to get a "true" compression reading.
Also, be aware that barometric pressure differences (during testing events separated by more than just a few hours) will cause changes in indicated compression readings. Atmospheric pressure can vary significantly over time at the same altitude, due to weather systems….you hear this on weather reports, where the forecaster is talking about “High” and “Low” pressure systems. Basically, higher atmospheric pressures translate into higher indicated compression pressures. Although it is rarely of major consequence, in order to be "dead-nuts" accurate you should also record your local barometric pressure at the time of each test. If you measured compression on a day when it was 1030mbar and observed 150psi, and then took a measurement later in the week/month/etc. when the ambient air pressure was only 990mbar, that’s an environmental air pressure difference of about 4%, and assuming nothing else had changed you would then read a 4% less compression pressure of only 144psi......i.e. lower ambient air pressure results in lower compression pressures in your engine.
But don’t overlook the fact that the individual test gauge being used is probably the greatest variable. Some compression gauges are just not very accurate to begin with (basically, and within reason --- and just like with most tools --- the more it costs, the more accurate it will tend to be). Also, try to keep the hose on the gauge you are using as short as possible….the space inside the hose adds to the volume of the cylinder, as lowers the compression ratio a bit, and thus reduces compression pressures.
And in case you are interested, here are the standard compression ratios for the various engines:
XJ550: 9.5-to-1
FJ600: 10.0-to-1
XJ600 Seca II: 10.0-to-1
XJ650 (except Turbo): 9.2-to-1
XJ650 Turbo: 8.2-to-1
XJ700 air-cooled: 9.5-t-1
XJ700-X and XJ750-X water: 11.2-to-1
XJ750 air: 9.2-to-1
XJ900: 9.6-to-1
XJ1100: 9.0-to-1
XS1100 9.2-to-1
Note that the XJ650 Turbo engine has a much lower static CR than all other engines……logically so, since it has a device (the turbocharger!) that raises the atmospheric pressure of the incoming air charge. Also of note is the rather “sky-high” CR of the multi-valve Genesis engines in the water-cooled “X” engines, which is also one of the keys to their vastly increased power output.
Now Analyze This!:
1) If one or all of your cylinders are too low in pressure, it means that:
a) you did the compression test incorrectly
b) the tester gauge is inaccurate, or was not used properly.
c) your engine has piston ring, piston wall, or valve leakage problems.
d) your valve clearances are too tight, and should be adjusted, or the cams are out of time, or aftermarket camshafts have been fitted that have altered the camshaft timing.
e) if a cylinder or cylinders have NO compression at all, that typically means your piston has been catastrophically damaged (i.e. a hole in the piston crown, broken piston, etc.)
f) if a cylinder or cylinders have good compression that rapidly "leaks away" (best determined by the use of a Leakdown Tester gauge as listed further below), this points to burned or otherwise problematic valves.
In order to further analyze a low-compression condition, you should squirt a small amount of engine oil into the suspect cylinders (about a teaspoon), crank the engine over for a few revolutions to spread the oil about, and then re-test those cylinders. NOTE: if cranking the engine over with the starter motor, you should place a rag or similar over the spark plug opening, or the oil you just introduced into the cylinder may spray out forcefully (into your face, onto your engine, all over the place……….!).
g) if the compression pressures RISE by a large amount after the infusion of oil, then this typically means that the pistons, piston rings, or cylinder walls are damaged or worn in some way(s). However, be aware that if you introduced a significant amount of oil into a cylinder (1 teaspoon or more) when conducting this test, a small rise in pressure may occur, and it may instead mean that your valves are the problem, since the introduction of that much oil in a small cylinder will naturally cause the compression to rise.
h) if the compression pressures do NOT rise after the infusion of oil, then this typically means that the valve seats or faces are worn, or a valve is hanging up within its guide, or your valve clearances are way too small (thus keeping a valve open all the time throughout the entire compression stroke).
i) if two adjacent cylinders (cylinders 1 and 2, or cylinders 3 and 4) have low compression, and the oil treatment produces no greater pressures, this points to a damaged cylinder head gasket, warped head, etc.
j) it can be very useful to introduce 20-30 psi of compressed air into the cylinder (thru the spark plug hole) to help identify the source of low compression: the escaping air can pinpoint the source of the leak (air hissing out of the intakes or exhaust points to valve problems, while air escaping thru the crankcase breather indicates ring-seal issues).
Of course, many other situation may cause low cylinder compression, including valves that are out of adjustment (too tight, thus holding a valve slightly open all the time, losing compression), cracked pistons, cylinders, or cylinder heads, but those situations are the not all that common.
2) If one or all of your cylinders are too HIGH in pressure, it means that:
a) you piston domes (tops) and/or the cylinder head combustion chamber have a significant accumulation of carbon upon them, which should be cleaned via some type of chemical treatment or engine dis-assembly and manual removal methods. Note that higher cylinder pressures caused by such build-up may be "masking" or hiding other problems that might cause LOW cylinder pressures, such as worn rings, etc.
b) your engine has been fitted with aftermarket, high-compression pistons, or has had the cylinder head mating surface significantly "shaved".
NOTE: high cylinder pressures are NOT a good thing, as they tend to blow out head gaskets and can cause accelerated piston, piston ring, or bearing wear.
You can also test for piston ring and cylinder wall condition by performing a "leak-down" test, which consists of forcing a measured amount of compressed air into a cylinder, and then seeing how long before this air "leaks" out of the combustion chamber and down into the crankcase (past the ring seal):
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/Compression-leakdowntest.htm
NOTE: be aware that some of the ultra low-priced gauges that are typically advertised on eBay, etc. can be quite un-reliable in their readings, and may regularly indicate a false (low) compression reading.
HCP16268 Aftermarket BASIC COMPRESSION TESTER KIT. This dial-type compression pressure gauge contains everything you'll need to check the "health" of those four holes: a 2-1/2" diameter, 0-300 psi gauge with an integrated pressure release valve, a separate 12" long flex hose, and a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 18mm plug adapters. Soft storage pouch, instructions, and a compliment of replacement o-rings and core valves are included. This is a good basic kit.
$ 69.95
HCP16269 Aftermarket PROFESSIONAL COMPRESSION TESTER KIT......this versatile, affordably-priced, accurate set contains everything you'll need to check the "health" of those four holes: a 2-3/4" gauge head---calibrated in psi, kPa, kg/cm2, and bar scales---with an integral pressure-relieved valve, permanently attached to a 10" hose with a quick-release coupler. A complete variety of 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 18mm adapter fittings and extensions hoses allows for maximum flexibility and ease of use on all types of engines. Comes in a handy plastic storage case, with a user guide, and a field service kit.
$ 89.95
Cylinder Leakdown Gauge:
In addition to a compression test gauge, another important means of determining the condition of the pistons/rings/cylinders is via a PRESSURE LEAKDOWN TESTER GAUGE. The standard compression tests can read maximum compression achieved, and that is all well and good; but equally important is whether that maximum compression pressure can be held by the rings and valves. A special "pressurize and hold" leakdown tester is necessary to perform this type of testing, and is great device to have when diagnosing the true condition of an engine's top end.
HCP17850 Aftermarket PROFESSIONAL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN TESTER KIT......this versatile, affordably-priced, accurate set contains everything you'll need to check the "health" of those four holes: gauge head, regulator valve, permanently and a set of extension hoses with 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm fittings for use on all types of 4-stroke engines. Comes in a handy plastic storage case with a user guide. NOTE: requires the use of an air compressor for use.
$ 159.95
Valvetrain Tools:
dd2) Aftermarket camshaft and drive chain CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOLS, needed to properly break and rivet a master link onto the replacement chains.
NOTE: most replacement cam chains are sold as an "endless chain", meaning it comes riveted together. In a situation where you have the engine all apart, it can be used as is, because you'll have side access to the gear on the crank. If you will be installing a new chain into an assembled engine, then you will have to break one of the links in order to "drop and drape" the chain over the crank gear.......and thus will also need a new master link in order to put the chain back together again. Almost all OEM chains are” joined” chains (they originally use a removable, rivet-style master link), and when replacing he master link the new link will need to be peened in place (rivet-style master links cannot be re-used).
NOTE: most drive chains are joined together with a rivet-style master link (some chains use a clip-style master link, which requires a different procedure than what is illustrated below). Here are some good instructions on how to properly peen a rivet-style master link. Although the forum thread on the XS650 website shows this procedure being performed on a camshaft chain, the same idea applies to drive chains, too:
Here are some good instructions on how to properly peen a rivet-style master link:
www.xs650.com/threads/peening-cam-master-link.51510
www.youtube.com/watch?v=sM022oIyIC8
HCP8607 Aftermarket cam chain BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL.
$ 129.95
HCP26915 Aftermarket camshaft and drive chains CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL SET. A decent quality toolkit for occasional (home) use, it contains a complete set of 3 different size drive tips, a hollow-nose pin rivet tip, chain side plate press tool, alignment bolt and push bolt, handles, and special guide pin adapters, all contained within a durable plastic case. This kit can break cam, oil pump, and drive chains up to the # 630 size, press master link plates on chains up to # 530, and rivet hollow-nosed master link pins on chains up to # 630. It will not perform solid-nosed riveting. NOTE: most chain-drive XJ bikes of this era used size #520 or #530 drive chains (depending on model).
$ 89.95
HCP9203 Aftermarket camshaft and drive chains CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL SET, A professional quality tool designed for heavy-duty home or shop use. Contains a complete set of 3 different size drive tips, a hollow-nose pin rivet tip, chain side plate press tool, alignment bolt and push bolt, handles, and special guide pin adapters, all contained within a durable plastic case. This kit can break cam, oil pump, and drive chains up to the # 630 size, press master link plates on chains up to # 530, and rivet hollow-nosed master link pins on chains up to # 630. It will not perform solid-nosed riveting. NOTE: most chain-drive XJ bikes of this era used size #520 or #530 drive chains (depending on model).
$ 119.95
HCP9204 Aftermarket 2.2mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP9205 Aftermarket 2.9mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP9206 Aftermarket 3.8mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP9207 Aftermarket WEDGE RIVETING TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 13.95
HCP26935 Aftermarket TDC FINDER tool, for all models with 14mm spark plug threads (all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, all XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900RK, RL, F, N, and FN models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models). To properly align your cams after removal, it is necessary to be able to precisely locate Top Dead Center (TDC) of the # cylinder, and it’s not always possible or advisable to rely on the timing pointer. This simple “sliding rod” TDC finder tool is easy to use, very precise, and affordable. Each:
$ 13.95
Valve Cover Pressure Washer Installation Tool:
HCP17542 Aftermarket valve cover pressure washer INSTALLATION TOOL........a lifesaver little device to make quick and easy work of installing the HCP1621, HCP1622, HCP19931 pressure washers into their bolts, and useful (but not absolutely necessary) on the HCP1620 pressure washers. This tapered brass collar is the proper size to allow the pressure washer to easily slide over its retaining flange or "ring" on bolt, eliminating the grinding ordeal of trying to press or wedge the new washer over that flange (it ain't easy!). See it in action here: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...-tool-now-with-how-to-pics.40308/#post-351301
$ 1.95
Valve Shim Bucket Retaining Tool:
These reproductions of the original shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL are required when removing or installing valve shims on air-cooled engines. NOTE: these tools are NOT needed to check the valve shim clearance, it is only necessary if you have determined that a shim needs to be changed and you are going to extract the current in-place shim from its bucket.
However, we recommend that you purchase the tool before you even begin the entire valve-clearance checking process, as chances are almost 100% that some - most - all of your valve clearances are out of spec, and to determine which replacement shims you'll need, you'll need to have this tool available to extract the currently installed shims (to check their size, and thus make the determination of what replacement sizes you'll need).
If you "measure clearances" and find that they are out of spec, and only then wait to order this tool, you'll be throwing your efforts behind by a week or so, and you'll be doing twice the amount of work. For the relatively small price of the tool, which you will need (whether now or in the future), it's our recommendation that you have it "at the ready" whenever you go thru the clearance-checking procedure, so you don't have to 2- or 3-step the process.
HCP247A Aftermarket valve shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL. For use with all 1982-83 XS400, XJ500, 1982-83 ZX550, XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, 1977-79 XS750, 1980-81 XS850, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, XJ1100, and XS1100 engines. Each:
$ 19.95
Please note that although this tool is patterned off the original Yamaha tool, and will work properly, although it can be somewhat "tricky" to figure out the procedure the first time you use it:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/29209
and
HCP22099 Aftermarket valve shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL. For use with all XJ600 Seca II engines.
$ 22.95
HCP28363 Aftermarket valve shim BUCKET RETAINER TOOL. For use with all 1985-07 VMX1200 V-Max, 1983-85 XVZ1200 Venture Royale, and 1983-93 XVZ1300 Venture/Venture Royale engines.
$ 94.95
Valve Shim Feeler Gauge Sets:
v7) Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SETS. These dual offset-blade design with their 90-degree angled ends makes it easy to check the valve clearance on all XJ air-cooled motors. XJ700-X and XJ750-X (water-cooled) engines will require the use of much narrower feeler gauges to check the intake valve clearances on those models.
HCP1593 Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SET, combined .002"/.003" blades.
$ 11.95
HCP1594 Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SET, combined .004"/.005" blades.
$ 11.95
HCP1595 Aftermarket valve clearance FEELER GAUGES SET, combined .006"/.008" blades.
$ 11.95
HCP159345SET---set of all three gauges, 1 each of HCP1593, HCP1594, and HCP1595 gives you all of the most common sizes needed.
$ 32.95
We also carry traditional multi-blade feeler gauge sets. Which one should you order? Well, it depends on whether you like your readings to be based in standard-size DECIMAL or METRIC readings (both gauges have the corresponding sizes in their opposite equivalents, but the "round number" readings vary between the two sets). Since these are metric bikes, and the valve shim clearance charts and the shims are denominated in metric, we tend to prefer the metric gauges:
HCP6383 Aftermarket METRIC FEELER GAUGES SET. These gauges will work on all XJ engines including the XJ700-X and XJ750-X water-cooled models, which require narrower blade-tip feeler gauges to check the intake valve clearances on those models. Aftermarket 32-blade metric set has 95mm long blades, hardened and polished, with the thin, tapered ends needed to access the valves on these models. Marked in both metric and decimal equivalents, as listed below. NOTE: these feeler gauges will fit perfectly, although you will have to rotate the blade 90 degrees to the holder for some of the inner valves on X-models. Each:
$ 17.95
Comment: the inclusion of inch measurements AND the inclusion of smaller sizes makes this set ideal for all XJ-bikes and especially for X-models.
X-engines have valve clearances in a range from .004" - .012" (0.11 mm - .30 mm)
Metric (millimeter) sizes:
.03, .04, .05, .06, .07, .08, .09, .10, .13, .15, .18, .20, .23, .25, .28, .30, .33, .38, .40, .45, .50, .55, .60, .63, .65, .70, .75, .80, .85, .90, and 1.00mm
Decimal (inch) Sizes:
.001, .0015, .002, .0025, .0028, .003, .0035, .004, .005, .006, .007, .008, .009, .010, .011, .012, .013, .015, .016, .018, .020, .022, .024, .025, .026, .028, .030, .032, .034, .035, and .040.
HCP3445 Aftermarket DECIMAL FEELER GAUGES SET. These gauges will work on all XJ engines EXCEPT XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, which require thinner feeler gauges to check the intake valves clearances on those models. Complete set of 3-1/4" long straight-blade feeler gauges combines all sizes from .0015" thru .035" (each blade is also marked in its metric equivalents, from .038mm thru .889mm) on a handy storage ring. Sizes on the blades are listed in both decimal and metric dimensions. Includes a 2-1/2" long ruler. Each:
$ 22.95
Non-"X" engines have valve clearances in a range from .004" - .008" (0.11 mm - .20 mm)
Metric (millimeter) sizes:
.0381, .0508, .0635, .0762, .1016, .1270, .1524, .1778, .2032, .2286, .2540 (steel and brass), .2794, .3048, .3302, .3556, .3810, .4064, .4318, .4572, .4826, .5080, .5334, .5588, .5842, .6096, .6350, .6604, .7112, .7620, .8128, and .8890
Decimal (inch) Sizes:
.0015, .002, .0025, .003, .004, .005, .006, .007, .008, .009, .010, 0.011, .012, .013, .014, .015, .016, .017, .018, .019, .020, .021, .022, .023, .024, .025, .026, .028, .030, .032, and .035.
Valve Clearance Crankshaft Nut Wrench:
To rotate the engine during valve clearance checks, you'll need the use of a proper sized open-end wrench to engage the special flat-sided nut on the left end of the crankshaft. A box end wrench or socket is not going to work. This is an odd-sized and difficult-to-locate wrench at most hardware or big-box stores.
HCP9640 Aftermarket OPEN-END WRENCH, 6" forged steel "engineer's wrench" has only one opening, and smooth black finish. Fits all XJ engines.
$ 19.95
Valve Face and Seat Reconditioning:
Typically known “lapping”, this is the most effective means of touching up slightly burned valves and seats, to restore like-new performance at minimum expense, and should be done whenever the head is off for service. And even after a valve grinding, a light lapping may be desirable. Modern valve refacing and reseating methods bring sealing surfaces into nearly full contact. However, slight irregularities, caused by vibration of equipment over a long period, make a lapping step the best way to be certain of a perfect job.
The proper spinning-while-grinding action, and the periodic lifting of the valve off the seat, is necessary to allow the abrasive compound to reposition itself uniformly on the valve and seat. After a final cleaning of compound from the valve, we recommend a few turns with oil to lift the remaining compound from the pores of the metal and to allow more accurate clearance adjustments. A well-seated valve, guided centrally and given proper clearance, is almost certain to give long service.
Our valve lapping tools, compounds, and complete kit makes this process easy (well, okay, a little bit “easier”) and will allow you to achieve a professional result.
HCP23549 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 120-grit lapping paste is good for the initial lapping of valves that have a quite a bit of wear. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
$ 11.95
HCP23551 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 180-grit lapping paste is good for the initial lapping of valves that are in good shape, and as a second step if using the 120-grit paste first. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
11.95
HCP23555 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 240-grit lapping paste is used to further smooth the surfaces after the use of the 180-grit compound. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
11.95
HCP23559 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 320-grit lapping paste is used to further smooth the surfaces after the use of the 240-grit compound. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
11.95
HCP23561 Aftermarket valve lapping ABRASIVE PASTE, high quality grease-based 400-grit lapping paste is used final polishing to get a beautifully finished valve face and head seat. Comes in a 2-ounce tub, more than enough to do an entire head.
11.95
HCP23571 Aftermarket lapping paste APPLICATOR BRUSH, high quality 6” brush allows you to carefully grab and spread small amounts of the paste.
$ 4.95
HCP25245 Aftermarket high-spot machinist MARKING PASTE, better known as “Prussian Blue”, this non-drying formula is used to find any high spots on the valve/seat interface, showing whether further lapping is necessary. Comes in a 3/4-ounce squeeze tub, cleans up with mineral spirits, and is more than enough to do an entire head.
$ 9.95
HCP23541 Aftermarket valve holder LAPPING STICK, specially-shaped wooden stick with a rubber “suction-cup” on one end that holds the valve securely while performing the back-and-forth lapping action. Pushbutton vacuum-suction system allows the valve to be held firmly, flexes without popping off, spins easily in your hands, and lifts the valve without losing its grip. Comes with 3 different sizes of suction cups to ensure proper fitting to the valve pad. A very nice tool.
$ 59.95
HCP23573 Aftermarket VALVE LAPPING KIT, contains everything you’ll need to do a professional job: the HCP23541 lapping stick, one tub of each of the 120, 180, 240, 320, and 400 grit compounds, the applicator brush, a tube of the marking paste, and a set of usage instruction.
$ 89.95
Valve Spring Compressors:
Necessary to properly remove and install valve into the head, these special OEM tools allow you to do this job properly, without distorting or damaging the springs.
HCP9215 OEM valve SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL, comes with adapters to allow the use on all XJ550, XJ650, and XJ750 engines.
$ 189.95
HCP9240 OEM valve SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL, comes with adapters to allow the use on all XJ700, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines. XJ700-X and XJ750-X owners will also need to order the HCP9241 adapter below.
$ 189.95
HCP9241 OEM valve SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL ADAPTER, for use with the HCP9240 compressor tool listed above, on the XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
$ 79.95
HCP10181 Aftermarket VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL SET, comes with 5 different size adapters to allow use on all XJ-series engines, including the Maxim-X type multi-valve engines. NOTE: although this screw-type compressor tool comes with five different-sized retainer disc "adapters", you may find that none of the specific adapter sizes fits your valve spring retainers "perfectly". However, you merely need to select the size adapter that most closely fits the retainer size on your engine (never bigger, always smaller than the O.D. of the retainer disc) and use that adapter carefully (so it does not "slip" or "walk off" the edge of the retainer disc as you are applying pressure, as you DO NOT under any circumstances want it to "walk-over" the edge of the retainer and then scar the lifter bucket bore!).
Although the OEM sized adapters fit the retainer discs "perfectly" (and therefore do not pose this "walking and potential scarring of the lifter bucket bore" threat), the huge difference in price between the OEM tools listed above and this complete, high-quality compressor tool set makes it worthy of purchasing, as long as you are careful in its use. Our experience shows that the 30mm adapter will fit the retainer discs very well (or exactly on some models) on the 550-1100 engines (except the 700-X and 750-X water-cooled models). The "X" motors will use the 19mm adapter; but it will not fit the retainer perfectly, but is the closest practical size.
Comes in a handy plastic storage case.
$ 69.95
Valve Guide Tools:
vgt1) Aftermarket valve guide tools are necessary to properly install replacement valve guides into the cylinder head. These reproductions of the original Yamaha specialty tools allow you to do the job properly.
HCP9234 Aftermarket valve guide REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION DRIVER TOOL, properly sized to remove original pressed-in valve guides without damaging the head, as well as to drive the guide installation tool HCP9232 used to install new guides. For all XJ550 engines.
$ 47.95
HCP9232 Aftermarket valve guide INSTALLATION TOOL, necessary to properly install the shoulderless valve guides into the head. Use this tool along with the driver tool HCP9234. For all XJ550 engines.
$ 47.95
HCP9231 Aftermarket valve guide REAMER TOOL. When new valve guides are installed, they should be reamed to a proper size and finish to allow the specified valve-to-guide clearance and insure proper lubrication, but no oil suction through the guides. For all XJ550 engines.
$ 139.95
HCP9216 Aftermarket valve guide REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION DRIVER TOOL, properly sized to remove original pressed-in valve guides without damaging the head, as well as to drive the guide installation tool HCP9217 used to install new guides. For all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines.
$ 89.95
HCP9217 Aftermarket valve guide INSTALLATION TOOL, necessary to properly install the shoulderless valve guides into the head. Use this tool along with the driver tool HCP9216. For all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines.
$ 44.95
HCP9218 Aftermarket valve guide REAMER TOOL. When new valve guides are installed, they should be reamed to a proper size and finish to allow the specified valve-to-guide clearance and insure proper lubrication, but no oil suction through the guides. For all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines.
$ 139.95
HCP9235 Aftermarket valve guide REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION DRIVER TOOL, properly sized to remove original pressed-in valve guides without damaging the head, as well as to drive the guide installation tool HCP9233 used to install new guides. For all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
$ 39.95
HCP9233 Aftermarket valve guide INSTALLATION TOOL, necessary to properly install the shoulderless valve guides into the head. Use this tool along with the driver tool HCP9235. For all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
$ 37.95
HCP9230 Aftermarket valve guide REAMER TOOL. When new valve guides are installed, they should be reamed to a proper size and finish to allow the specified valve-to-guide clearance and insure proper lubrication, but no oil suction through the guides. For all XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines.
$ 99.95
These medium-grit, flexible HONES are just what’s needed to apply a proper “clean-up” cross-hatch finish to a set of valve guides. Hundreds of balls of round coarse-grit oxide are attached to flexible twisted-wire shafts, which when chucked into a 3/8” or 1/2” chuck standard drill (or drill press) can be used to break the cylinder wall glaze and eliminate any high spots on the cylinder wall, creating a fresh surface finish that allows rings to seat properly, insuring the highest compression and lowest oil migration. These hones will not remove metal (and are not designed to do so). Proper use requires the application of honing oil and precise control of hone rotation and linear (in-and-out) speed of motion. Just a few passes is all that’s needed , and it’s remarkably easy to use ---- its self-centering action allows you to produce a beautiful and professional guide wall finish even for a first-time user!
NOTE: hones can be attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE!
The use of these hones will greatly increase the success of your engine rebuild, and should be considered a “must-have” tool if your are not having your guides actually bored and/or refinished by a machine shop.
HCP23524SET Aftermarket cylinder head VALVE GUIDE HONE, proper size for use on all XJ550 and 1984-85 F600 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 59.95
HCP23525SET Aftermarket cylinder head VALVE GUIDE HONE, proper size for use on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, and XJ1100 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 59.95
HCP23522SET Aftermarket cylinder head VALVE GUIDE HONE, proper size for use on all XJ700 water-cooled and XJ750 water-cooled engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 69.95
HCP22816 Aftermarket valve guide hone HONING OIL, this is the proper lubricant to use with any of the above cylinder hones. 1/2 pint bottle is enough to do multiple engines.
$ 21.95
NOTE: the HCP23533 tool above is available for short term rental, please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
Piston and Piston Ring Tools:
HCP23597 Aftermarket piston base HOLDER TOOL. Flat slotted tool protects the piston skirts from flopping around and getting damaged while removing or installing the cylinder jugs. You'll need to use two (2) per engine. For all XJ-series engines. Each:
$ 21.95
HCP9771 Aftermarket piston ring COMPRESSOR TOOL. Wide-band ring compressor tool has a quick-release handle and allows you to prevent damage to the rings when installing the cylinder jugs down over the pistons. You'll need to use two (2) per engine. Fits all XJ-series engines. Each:
$ discontinued
NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOL IS AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
HCP23162 Aftermarket piston ring COMPRESSOR TOOL SET. Special spring-steel compressor “clamps” prevent ring damage during cylinder installation, and are easily removed after the cylinder jugs are in position. Supplied with clamp ring compressor tool and 4 clamping rings (one each of 4 different sizes) which will allow use on all XJ- and XS-series engine sizes. Comes with a storage case. Since the 4-cylinder Yammy motors require placing 2 pistons into the jugs at a time, you will need 2 of these tool kits to accommodate your rebuild. Each tool set:
$ 32.95
Cylinder Hones:
These medium-grit, flexible CYLINDER HONES are just what’s needed to apply a proper “clean-up” cross-hatch finish to a set of cylinders before installation of original or new rings. Hundreds of balls of round coarse-grit oxide are attached to flexible twisted-wire shafts, which when chucked into a 3/8” or 1/2” chuck standard drill (or drill press) can be used to break the cylinder wall glaze and eliminate any high spots on the cylinder wall, creating a fresh surface finish that allows rings to seat properly, insuring the highest compression and lowest oil migration. These hones will not remove metal (and are not designed to do so, nor will they typically remove the top-of-cylinder carbon build-up “ridge”). Proper use requires the application of honing oil and precise control of hone rotation and linear (in-and-out) speed of motion. Just a few passes is all that’s needed , and it’s remarkably easy to use ---- its self-centering action allows you to produce a beautiful and professional cylinder wall finish even for a first-time user!
NOTE: hones can be attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE!
The use of these hones will greatly increase the success of your engine rebuild, and should be considered a “must-have” tool if your are not having your cylinders actually bored and/or refinished by a machine shop.
Each hone includes a sufficient supply of honing oil.
HCP22811SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ550 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 79.95
HCP22812SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ650 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 89.95
HCP22813SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ700 air-cooled and XJ750 air-cooled engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 89.95
HCP22814SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ700 water-cooled, XJ750 water-cooled, and all XJ900 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 89.95
HCP22815SET Aftermarket engine CYLINDER HONE, proper size for use on all XJ1100 and XS1100 engines. Includes a bottle of honing oil.
$ 89.95
HCP22816 Aftermarket engine cylinder hone HONING OIL, this is the proper lubricant to use with any of the above cylinder hones. 1/2 pint bottle is enough to do multiple engines.
$ 21.95
Bearing Clearance Measurement:
As mentioned, bearing oil clearances are critical for engine longevity. Clearances are measured via the use of a thin, crushable plastic “bead” which is positioned between the bearing and the journal, and which is then crushed when the parts are torqued to proper specifications. The parts are then separated, and the width of the crushed plastic strips are compared against a (included) reference chart. This is a simple, accurate, yet very time-consuming task, but it must be done to insure that you engine assembly is done properly!
Here's a good video showing how it's done (starting about 1:30 into the video):
www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5UVtnSbHig
These measurements should be done for all bearing positions on the crankshaft main journals, the crankshaft rod journals, and all camshaft journals.
HCP23534 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the green plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.001 - 0.003" (0.025 - 0.076 mm), which covers most (but not all) specified clearances for all XJ550 thru XJ1100 / XS1100 crank, rod, and camshaft bearings. Two strips will be enough to check one engine. Each:
$ 11.95
HCP23535 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the red plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.002" - 0.006" (0.051 - 0.152mm), which covers most (but not all) specified clearances for all XJ550 thru XJ1100 / XS1100 crank, rod, and camshaft bearings. Two strips will be enough to check one engine. Each:
$ 11.95
HCP23536 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the blue plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.004" to 0.009" (0.102 - 0.229mm). Not typically needed for these engines, as such large clearances are outside of allowable specification for any of these XJ engines. Each:
$ 11.95
HCP23537 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT STRIP, contains a single 12” length of the yellow plastigauge strip, used to measure clearances between 0.009" to 0.020" (0.229 - 0.250mm). Not typically needed for these engines, as such large clearances are outside of allowable specification for any of these XJ engines. Each:
$ 11.95
HCP23589 Aftermarket BEARING CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT KIT, contains an assortment of green (2), red (2), blue (1), and yellow (1) plastigauge strips, enough to measure clearances in a couple of engines. Includes a clearance specification sheet (showing specified clearances for all XJ550 - XJ1100 engines) and instructions for usage.
$ 29.95
Thread Taps:
c9) Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAPS. The aluminum crankcase can take a severe beating over the years, especially as it concerns their threaded holes. Steel is harder than aluminum, so you know what's going to distort, deform, or strip first…..the threaded bore holes. The following professional quality tool-steel metric cutting taps will allow you to either "clean-up" or re-thread distorted or stripped threads in all metals, soft (aluminum) to hard (steel).
HCP28122 Aftermarket engine components THREAD CHASER TAPS SET. This complete set of 3 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all XJ550, FJ600, FZ600, YX600, and XJ600 engines. Almost all threaded have will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the engine case cover holes, valvecover bolt holes, cam bearing caps holes, tach drive housing holes in head, cam chain tensioner holes in jugs, exhaust port stud holes in head, intake manifold holes in head, cam chain tunnel stud holes, crankcase cinching bolt holes, cylinder head stud holes (in upper crankcase), spark plug holes in the head, and many others, Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you will use these only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
$ 59.95
HCP28123 Aftermarket engine components THREAD CHASER TAPS SET. This complete set of 4 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all water-cooled XJ700-X, XJ750-X, 1987 FZ700, 1986-87 FZX700 Fazer, 1985-86 and 1988 FZ750, 1987 FZR750R, and 1987-88 FZR1000 engines. Almost all threaded have will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the engine case cover holes, valvecover bolt holes, cam bearing caps holes, tach drive housing holes in head, cam chain tensioner holes in jugs, exhaust port stud holes in head, intake manifold holes in head, cam chain tunnel stud holes, crankcase cinching bolt holes, cylinder head stud holes (in upper crankcase), spark plug holes in the head, and many others, Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you will use these only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
$ 79.95
HCP28124 Aftermarket engine components THREAD CHASER TAPS SET. This complete set of 3 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 engines. Almost all threaded have will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the engine case cover holes, valvecover bolt holes, cam bearing caps holes, tach drive housing holes in head, cam chain tensioner holes in jugs, exhaust port stud holes in head, intake manifold holes in head, cam chain tunnel stud holes, crankcase cinching bolt holes, cylinder head stud holes (in upper crankcase), middle drive gear output flange holes, spark plug holes in the head, and many others. Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you will use these only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
$ 74.95
HCP2399 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as many other areas of the bike. This 6 x 1.00 pitch is a very common sized thread.
$ 19.95
- Hitachi HSC32 air compensator jet holes.
- Hitachi lower carb rack mount screw holes.
- Hitachi pilot and main air jets port holes (in carb throat, below vacuum piston).
- Hitachi carb bowl drain screw hole.
- All models: gas tank mounting holes for the petcock.
- All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting holes.
- Mikuni XJ550, FJ/FZ/YX600, XJ600 Seca Ii, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 lower carb rack bracket screw holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting holes are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP11028 tap below).
- XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolt holes.
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP11028 tap listed further below).
- Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
- All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolt holes.
- Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting hole.
- exhaust headpipe gas test bolt threaded hole in the bottom of each header pipe.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp.
- collector chrome cover retaining bolt hole (XJ1100 models)
- collector chrome cover rear retaining screw hole (XJ1100 models).
- XJ650 Turbo models, turbo housing hole for the right muffler “joiner pipe” mounting bolt holes.
HCP11028 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as many other areas of the bike. This m8 x 1.25 pitch is a very common sized thread.
$ 9.95
- XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP2399 tap above).
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp (on models using the HCP2181, HCP3925, HCP3927, or HCP3928 sized bolts).
- exhaust collector output pinch clamp (for muffler) for models used the HCP3925 or HCP4623 size bolts.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the exhaust collector stud holes in the turbo housing.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the threaded stud holes in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt hole in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt holes in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the vacuum actuator “can” to the turbocharger).
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket holes (in frame) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
HCP28120 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes:
- XJ700-X, XJ750-X, 1987 FZ700, 1986-87 FZX700 Fazer, 1985-86 and 1988 FZ750, 1987 FZR750R, and 1987-88 FZR1000 cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
$ 11.95
HCP26760 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as other areas of the bike. This m10 x 1.25 pitch is used on a few other places on the bike.
$ 14.95
- XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
- all XJ models left side mirror stalk receiver.
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolt threaded collar (the single bolt that passes thru the flange on the collector) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- all XJ1100 and XS1100 models exhaust hanger bolt holes.
- threaded holes for any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2250, HCP3929, HCP3930, HCP3931, HCP3936, HCP3937, HCP3938, HCP4049, HCP19940, and HCP21872.
HCP28131 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- 12mm spark plug holes on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, and 1986-90 YX600, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, 1987 FZ700, 1986-87 FZX700 Fazer, 1985-86 and 1988 FZ750, 1987 FZR750R, and 1987-88 FZR1000 engines. This deep-reach tap has a socket-drive head for constricted-space clearance, and will allow access to the plug hole even in the recessed XJ700-X / XJ750-X heads.
$ 27.95
HCP6378 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- 14mm spark plug holes on all XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled heads, all XJ750 air-cooled heads, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 engines. For use by hand or with a 13/16" socket. Each:
$ 16.95
HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
$ 17.95
HCP29188 Aftermarket THREAD REAMER - TAP cuts oversized threads for the oil pan drain plug port, allowing you to repair a partially stripped port which can no longer accept the torque needed to prevent leaks. This tap can be driven by either a 16mm wrench or socket or a 4mm hex (allen-key) wrench, and does not require that the hole be drilled out prior to use. The tap will properly clean up the remains of the original threads and cuts a new, larger thread at the same time, allowing you to use the oversized drain bolt (HCP29189) listed below. A simple way to salvage a common problem. Tap and oversized bolt will fit drain pans on all XJ550, FJ600, XJ600 Seca II, FZ600, YX600 Radian,XJ700, XJ750, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 models. NOTE: although this tap can be used while the oil pan is still installed on the engine, it is highly recommended that the oil pan removed from the engine before use (to insure alignment, and to be able to flush out any thread chips or swarf created during the re-threading procedure. NOTE: if your drain port is cracked, badly chipped, or missing significant amount of material, this oversized tap may not be able to provide a suitable solution, and another solution (either welding to “rebuild” the hole dimension” or pan replacement will be necessary). Each:
$ 39.95
HCP29189 Aftermarket OVERSIZE OIL DRAIN PLUG to be used with the HCP29188 tap above to repair stripped holed in oil pans. Will fit modified (enlarged / re-threaded) oil drain plug ports on all XJ550, FJ600, XJ600 Seca II, FZ600, YX600 Radian,XJ700, XJ750, XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 models. Comes with the crush washer. Each:
$ 11.95
HCP29200 Aftermarket oversize oil drain plug CRUSH WASHER to be used with the HCP29189 plug above.
$ 3.95 each
$ 14.95 set of 5
HCP29190 Aftermarket OVERSIZE OIL DRAIN PLUG AND REAMER/TAP KIT, contains both the HCP29188 reamer/tap and a HCP29189 oversized drain plug (with a crush washer) listed above.
$ 44.95
NOTE: always use a proper thread-cutting oil or lubricant before using thread taps! Thin motor oils work fine when merely doing a "clean-up" thread chase; a real cutting fluid should be obtained if a threaded bore needs to be truly cut:
HCP2402 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into aluminum or other soft metal. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
HCP2403 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into steel or other ferrous metals. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
c9a) THREAD CHASER DIES. Unlike the thread taps listed above, these thread DIES are used to clean, restore, and repair threads on the threaded fasteners (screws, bolts, studs, etc.). These tools help restore that like-new feel to used bolts, and straighten and restore threads to allow for proper torque settings to be achieved and maintained. Unlike standard round dies, these dies feature cutting teeth within a standard “hex-nut” shape, so you can use a wrench or socket to hold the die and turn it over the fastener. Just like cleaning / chasing threaded holes with a tap, this task is easy to use, important to do, and when you’re done you’ll be glad you took the time to do the job properly! NOTE: these dies are not used to cut new threads, only to renew threads on non-hardened fasteners! Always lubricate the tool (or fastener) with a light oil or grease when using.
HCP28260 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m6 x 1.00 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- Hitachi lower carb rack mount screws.
- Hitachi carb bowl drain screw.
- All models: gas tank mounting screws for the petcock.
- All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting bolts.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 lower carb rack bracket screws.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting bolts are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP28261 die below).
- XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolts.
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP28261 die listed below).
- Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
- All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolts.
- Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting bolt or stud.
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- exhaust headpipe gas test port bolt fitted into the bottom of each header pipe.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp bolt (on models using the HCP2182 sized bolt).
- collector chrome cover retaining bolt (XJ1100 models)
- collector chrome cover rear retaining screw bolt (XJ1100 models)
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the right muffler “joiner pipe” mounting bolts.
- For any fasteners associated with the following fastener part number: HCP2182, HCP2264, HCP3572, HCP3926, HCP3933, HCP3935, HCP7107, HCP8351, and HCP8480.
HCP28261 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m8 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase).
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolts (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP28260 die above).
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have a single stud on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with dual tunnel studs use the HCP28260 die listed above).
- Some models: cylinder head-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, at the rear of the head (note these are not the cam chain tunnel studs.
- All shaft-drive models: middle gear output flange-to-crankcase bolts.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models: middle gear drive housing-to-crankcase mounting bolts.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp cinch bolt (on models using the HCP2181, HCP3925, HCP3927, or HCP3928 sized bolts).
- exhaust collector output pinch clamp cinch bolt (for muffler) for models used the HCP3925 or HCP4623 size bolts.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the exhaust collector stud in the turbo housing.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the threaded studs in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt used into the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolts used (for mounting of the vacuum actuator “can” to the turbocharger.
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolts (which thread into the frame) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2181, HCP2942, HCP3925, HCP3927, HCP3928, HCP3934, HCP3939, HCP4208, HCP4623, HCP4956, HCP6156, HCP16101, and HCP16244.
HCP28575 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m9 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 8.95
- XJ700 water-cooled and XJ750 water-cooled engines, cylinder head-to-upper crankcase long studs
HCP28577 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m10 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 8.95
- XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 engines, cylinder head-to-upper crankcase long studs.
- all XJ models left side mirror stem.
- Many models: front engine mounting bolts
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolt (the single bolt that passes thru the flange on the collector) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- all XJ1100 and XS1100 models exhaust hanger bolts.
- For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2250, HCP3929, HCP3930, HCP3931, HCP3936, HCP3937, HCP3938, HCP4049, HCP19940, and HCP21872.
HCP28579 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 8.95
- Many models: rear engine mounting bolts
HCP28582 Aftermarket SMALL THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains one each of the most commonly used smaller sizes: HCP28567 (m4 x .70 pitch), HCP28568 ( m5 x .80 pitch), and the HCP28260 (m6 x 1.00 pitch) chaser dies.
$ 21.95
HCP28583 Aftermarket LARGE THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains one each of the most commonly used smaller sizes: HCP28261 (m8 x 1.25 pitch), HCP28577 ( m10 x 1.25 pitch), and the HCP28579 (m12 x 1.25 pitch) chaser dies.
$ 23.95
HCP28585 Aftermarket COMPLETE THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains all of the most commonly used sizes: one each of HCP28567 (m4 x .70 pitch), HCP28568 ( m5 x .80 pitch), and the HCP28260 (m6 x 1.00 pitch), HCP28261 (m8 x 1.25 pitch), HCP28577 ( m10 x 1.25 pitch), and the HCP28579 (m12 x 1.25 pitch) chaser dies. Note that XJ700-X or XJ750-X owners will need to order the HCP28575 die (m9 x 1.25 pitch) separate in order to have a “complete” die set for those engines, as it is not included in this set.
$ 37.95
Cooling System Tools:
HCP9236 Aftermarket water pump MECHANICAL SEAL INSTALLER TOOL, nice copy of the original tool used on all the XJ700-X and XJ750-X models. Includes a proper length bolt to use as a driver “handle”. NOTE: a proper sized socket can also be used to serve as a seal driver, but…..it must be the absolute proper size to correctly drive this somewhat “fragile” seal into the pump housing both straight and true while not damaging the land. There are a number of Youtube videos that can help you with this subject.(the factory service manual is rather “sparse” in showing or explaining the procedure involved); this one (although for a Honda) is a great one and the procedure is the same as on the Yamaha pump seal:
For reference, the outer diameter of the seal driver is 32.05mm, and the inner diameter is 27.40mm.
$ 89.95
Miscellaneous Tools:
HCP25903 Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, proper size for cleaning out the residue and burnishing the engine rubber insulator (“damper”) mounting holes in the crankcase upper and lower sections. Double-turn wire helix core can be inserted into drill and be used o “hone” the case openings back to a smooth finish. Proper size for all XJ series engines and XS1100 engines..
$ 14.95
ALSO---it's never a bad idea to use some of our 100% Silicone Grease as an "assembly lube" when installing any of these engine insulators as they are a very tight fit when new:
HCP28407 Aftermarket o-ring, oil seal, and gasket installation pure SILICONE GREASE. This small 5-gram (1/6-oz) snap-open "pillow packet" is enough for a few small oil seals, dozens of o-rings, and the like. Each:
$ 4.95
HCP1714 Aftermarket o-ring, oil seal, and gasket installation pure SILICONE GREASE. This generous 14-gram (1/2-oz.) tub goes a long way, because just like Brylcreem, "just a little dab will do ya'!" Each:
$ 9.95
EXHAUST SYSTEM TOOLS:
NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
Prevent any of the above situations from happening to you by using one of our anti-seize products when installing your new bolts!
it54) Aftermarket broken stud EXTRACTOR TOOL KIT. Common problem: you snap or shear off the head of a fastener, now what do you do? Prevent these situations from happening to you by using one of our anti-seize products when installing new bolts or studs!
HCP10302 Aftermarket 6mm BROKEN STUD EXTRACTOR......this is the correct size for both the exhaust headpipe studs and the intake manifold bolts in the cylinder head, which are the most common fasteners that you'll need to use these extractor tools on. You simply pound this extractor onto the stud, and then use an open-end wrench to twist it out. As long as you have a bit of the broken stud remaining outside of the cylinder head threaded hole (in other words, the fastener has not broken off "flush"), then this tool is what's going to save your day. Similar in concept to a "ez-out", but these tools have their "biting" surfaces on the inside of a socket-type housing, so that the hardened steel ridges bite into the stud and allow you to extract it. Also works great on screw or bolt heads that have had the drive slot ruined or the bolt head rounded off.
$ 79.95
HCP26979 Aftermarket complete STUD EXTRACTOR and INSTALLATION TOOLS SET. Complete set of 3 different size tools, these are an upgraded version of the “two locking nuts” method of stud extraction or installation, and their small size allows them to work easily in cramped spaces. Note that this type of tool requires that you have decent threads on the end of the stud:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNH7u87dhng
This set has the proper sized tools to install and remove exhaust manifold studs, cylinder head and cylinder jug studs, the long cylinder head-to-crankcase studs (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines), broken intake manifold bolts and many other threaded studs (or headless bolts) on the engine and drivetrain. Contains one each M6 x 1.00 pitch, M8 x 1.25 pitch, and a M10 x 1.25 pitch tool.
$ 39.95
HCP10301 Aftermarket complete STUD EXTRACTOR TOOLS SET. Complete set of 4 different size extractors, and these can be used with ratchet wrenches for ease of removal. These are “roller clutch” type removers that use internally locking rollers to grip and turn the stud. This type tool will damage the threads as part of the removal process, and although it’s possible to use them on broken threads (the smooth shank portion of the stud, even if that is all that is present i.e. the stud or bolt has snapped off and all that remains is the unthreaded portion), they don’t always work all that well on smooth surfaces…..but this also means that the can also be used on dowel pins and some guide collars. Note that these stud removers are much larger is physical size that the HCP26979 tools, which may present problems in restricted areas:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE5VnScjRcI
This set has the proper sized tools to remove exhaust manifold studs, broken intake manifold bolts, cylinder head and cylinder jug studs, the long cylinder head-to-crankcase studs (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines), and most other threaded studs (or headless bolts) on the engine and drivetrain. Contains one each of a 6mm and 8mm extractors (which can be used with 3/8" drive ratchets) and one each of a 10mm and 12mm extractors (which can be used with 1/2" drive ratchets). You simply pound the extractor onto the stud, and then use an appropriate sized ratchet wrench to twist it out. Comes in a molded storage case.
$ 89.95
Or, you can put the power of chemistry to work for you:
https://tap-die.com/contents/en-uk/d296_Tip_Remove_Broken_Tap_Drill_Reamer_Tap_and_Die_Co.html
Alum powder, get it at your local supermarket:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/McCormick-Alum-1-9-oz/10535117
c9a) THREAD CHASER TAPS and DIES. Over time, rust and it seizure effects can cause fastener threads to become pitted and result in sloppy fits and un-reliable torque readings……besides making assembly and dis-assembly a pain in the tailpipe and risky. Out line of THREAD CHASING TAPS (for threaded holes) and CHASER DIES (fot the bolt or screw fasteners) are used to clean, restore, and repair threads on the such items. These tools help restore that like-new feel to used fasteners and their accepting holes, and will straighten and restore threads to allow for proper torque settings to be achieved and maintained.
Taps can be manipulated with a proper sized wrench on the square shank of the tap, or for more secure result, use our HCP28170 TAP HANDLE, featuring offset handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
And unlike standard round dies, ours feature cutting teeth within a standard “hex-nut” shape, so you can use a wrench or socket to hold the die and turn it over the fastener. Just like cleaning / chasing threaded holes with a tap, this task is easy to do, and when you’re done you’ll be glad you took the time to do the job properly!
Always lubricate the tap or die tool (or fastener) with a light oil or grease during use, or use one of our specialty THREAD CUTTING FLUIDS listed further below.
The following professional quality tool-steel metric cutting taps and dies will allow you to either "clean-up" or re-thread distorted or stripped threads in all metals, soft (aluminum) to hard (steel), and are a great addition to your toolbox.
HCP2399 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as many other areas of the bike. This 6 x 1.00 pitch is a very common sized thread.
$ 9.95
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
- exhaust headpipe gas test bolt threaded hole in the bottom of each header pipe.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp.
- collector chrome cover retaining bolt hole (XJ1100 models)
- collector chrome cover rear retaining screw hole (XJ1100 models).
- XJ650 Turbo models, turbo housing hole for the right muffler “joiner pipe” mounting bolt holes.
HCP28260 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m6 x 1.00 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- exhaust headpipe gas test port bolt fitted into the bottom of each header pipe.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp bolt (on models using the HCP2182 sized bolt).
- collector chrome cover retaining bolt (XJ1100 models)
- collector chrome cover rear retaining screw bolt (XJ1100 models)
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the right muffler “joiner pipe” mounting bolts.
- For any fasteners associated with the following fastener part number: HCP2182, HCP2264, HCP3572, HCP3926, HCP3933, HCP3935, HCP7107, HCP8351, and HCP8480.
HCP11028 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as many other areas of the bike. This m8 x 1.25 pitch is a very common sized thread.
$ 9.95
- XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP2399 tap above).
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp (on models using the HCP2181, HCP3925, HCP3927, or HCP3928 sized bolts).
- exhaust collector output pinch clamp (for muffler) for models used the HCP3925 or HCP4623 size bolts.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the exhaust collector stud holes in the turbo housing.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the threaded stud holes in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt hole in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt holes in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the vacuum actuator “can” to the turbocharger).
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket holes (in frame) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
HCP28261 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m8 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95
- XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase).
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolts (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP28260 die above).
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have a single stud on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with dual tunnel studs use the HCP28260 die listed above).
- Some models: cylinder head-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, at the rear of the head (note these are not the cam chain tunnel studs.
- All shaft-drive models: middle gear output flange-to-crankcase bolts.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models: middle gear drive housing-to-crankcase mounting bolts.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- exhaust collector input (from header pipe) pinch clamp cinch bolt (on models using the HCP2181, HCP3925, HCP3927, or HCP3928 sized bolts).
- exhaust collector output pinch clamp cinch bolt (for muffler) for models used the HCP3925 or HCP4623 size bolts.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the exhaust collector stud in the turbo housing.
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the threaded studs in the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolt used into the turbo housing exhaust port (for mounting of the left muffler to the turbocharger).
- XJ650 Turbo models, for the bolts used (for mounting of the vacuum actuator “can” to the turbocharger.
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolts (which thread into the frame) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2181, HCP2942, HCP3925, HCP3927, HCP3928, HCP3934, HCP3939, HCP4208, HCP4623, HCP4956, HCP6156, HCP16101, and HCP16244.
HCP26760 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following threaded holes listed below, as well as other areas of the bike. This m10 x 1.25 pitch is used on a few other places on the bike.
$ 14.95
- XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase) mounting holes.
- all XJ models left side mirror stalk receiver.
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolt threaded collar (the single bolt that passes thru the flange on the collector) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- all XJ1100 and XS1100 models exhaust hanger bolt holes.
- threaded holes for any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2250, HCP3929, HCP3930, HCP3931, HCP3936, HCP3937, HCP3938, HCP4049, HCP19940, and HCP21872.
HCP28577 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m10 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; although not a common size fastener there are more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 8.95
- XJ650, XJ700 air-cooled, XJ750 air-cooled, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 engines, cylinder head-to-upper crankcase long studs.
- all XJ models left side mirror stem.
- Many models: front engine mounting bolts
- exhaust collector rear mounting bracket bolt (the single bolt that passes thru the flange on the collector) on all models used a cast-iron exhaust collector.
- all XJ1100 and XS1100 models exhaust hanger bolts.
- For any fasteners associated with the following part numbers: HCP2250, HCP3929, HCP3930, HCP3931, HCP3936, HCP3937, HCP3938, HCP4049, HCP19940, and HCP21872.
HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
$ 17.95
NOTE: always use a proper thread-cutting oil or lubricant before using thread taps! Thin motor oils work fine when merely doing a "clean-up" thread chase; a real cutting fluid should be obtained if a threaded bore needs to be truly cut:
HCP2402 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into aluminum or other soft metal. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
HCP2403 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into steel or other ferrous metals. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95
STEERING AND SUSPENSION TOOLS:
NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
FORK SYSTEM SERVICE TOOLS:
Assembly and Dis-assembly Tools:
w) Lower Fork Tube DAMPER ROD RETAINING TOOL. This long aluminum tool, with proper sized nuts on each end, is used to retain the top of the fork damper rod (in the bottom of the chrome tube) when removing or installing the damper rod retaining screw. One end has a 19mm hex and the other end has a 22mm hex, so it will fit all styles of XJ-series bikes except XJ600 Seca II, 1981-83 XJ750 Seca, XJ1100, and all XS1100 Special and Midnight Special models. This tool will make the disassembly of your upper tube from the lower tube much easier! NOTE: this tool is available for short term rental, please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
HCP4402 Aftermarket DAMPER ROD RETAINING TOOL.
$ 37.95
HCP9238 Aftermarket fork upper cap bolt REVERSE HEX SOCKET TOOL. This tool allows the easy removal and installation of the "inverted/reversed" hex-drive cap bolt used on the top of the inner fork tubes on all 1984 FJ600, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700 non-X, XJ750-D, XJ750P (37H) model, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F, and 1982 XZ550R Vision models.
$ 17.95
HCP26093 Aftermarket lower fork tube OIL SEAL DRIVER. split “clamshell” heavy duty design allows it to be used properly and safely install the lower tube oil seals and (where applicable) lower tube dust seals on all 35-36mm fork tubes (XJ550 Seca, FJ600, XJ600 Euro, all XJ650 (except 1983 Turbo), all XJ750 air-cooled (except XJ750P (37H Police) and X750-D models), and XJ900 N/FN models).
Purchase Price: $ 39.95
HCP26094 Aftermarket lower fork tube OIL SEAL DRIVER. split “clamshell” heavy duty design allows it to be used properly and safely install the lower tube oil seals and (where applicable) lower tube dust seals on all 37mm fork tubes (1983 XJ650 Turbo, XJ750 Police (37H) model, XJ750-D, XJ900 RK, RL, and F models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models).
Purchase Price: $ 39.95
HCP26095 Aftermarket lower fork tube OIL SEAL DRIVER. split “clamshell” heavy duty design allows it to be used properly and safely install the lower tube oil seals and (where applicable) lower tube dust seals on all 38mm fork tubes (XJ600 Seca II thru 1997, XJ700 all models, and XJ750-X water-cooled models).
Purchase Price: $ 39.95
Fork Tube Cleaning and Polishing:
HCP28489 Fork Tubes DEEP REACH CLEANING BRUSH. This 36" long brush features polyester bristles that will reach deep inside the forks tubes to clean away grit and oil sludge residue that cannot otherwise be reached or disturbed. Has a comfortable easy-grip plastic handle and flexible twisted-wire shaft. .Use with your favorite cleaning solvents to get the insides of the fork tubes free of contaminants.
$ 39.99
ft4) These stainless-steel, bristle-wire DE-BURRING BRUSHES will work wonders on the upper cap bolt area on both the threaded and the non-threaded style of fork tubes. Tubes that use threaded cap bolt (all XJ650 Turbo, all XJ700 models, XJ750-X models, XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models) should use the HCP10223 butterfly brush; non-threaded tubes can use either the HCP10222 spiral brush or the HCP10223 butterfly brush. Both style brushes have stems that are designed to be used in a standard power drill, and should be used at 850 rpm's or less. These brushes will make quick and meaningful work of the cleaning and polishing of this critical area on your upper fork tubes.
HCP10222 Aftermarket stainless-steel double-density spiral DE-BURRING BRUSH, for use on fork tubes without a threaded cap bolt.
$ 11.95
HCP10223 Aftermarket stainless-steel high-density "butterfly-wings" DE-BURRING BRUSH, for use on fork tubes with or without threaded cap bolts.
$ 11.95
Fork Tube Oil Level Gauges:
HCP1728 Fork tube oil fluid level measurement GAUGE AND SYRINGE. This handy tool makes the measurement of the fork oil level easy and accurate. NOTE: the proper amount of fork oil is determined via the measurement of the fork oil LEVEL (distance below the very top of the inner tube) rather than a volume AMOUNT of oil specification. Too little oil will make the ride mushy, while too much oil makes the ride harsh (and can blow out the oil seals!)
$ 37.95
ffl4) Aftermarket fork oil measurement GRADUATED CYLINDERS. The best way to measure the precise amount of fork oil fluid is via the use of these lab-quality measurement cylinders. Available in either transparent (clear) or translucent (cloudy) durable plastic construction, they all have easy-to-read scale numerals (milliliters) and feature a "non-wetting" inner surface coating that prevents the concave "meniscus" from forming at the top of the fluid, thus insuring a much more accurate level reading. Large bases insure stability while large spouts make "the pour" easy and prevent messy drips. Very useful device to have for front fork oil changes.
HCP10741 Aftermarket fork oil GRADUATED CYLINDER, 250ml capacity, translucent (cloudy).
$ 16.95
HCP10744 Aftermarket fork oil GRADUATED CYLINDER, 250ml capacity, transparent (clear).
$ 27.95
HCP10742 Aftermarket fork oil GRADUATED CYLINDER, 500ml capacity, translucent (cloudy).
$ 19.95
HCP10745 Aftermarket fork oil GRADUATED CYLINDER, 500ml capacity, transparent (clear).
$ 39.95
HCP10743 Aftermarket fork oil GRADUATED CYLINDER, super-sized 1000ml capacity, translucent (cloudy), with convenient side handle to insure steady pouring.
$ 59.95
Fork Tube Air Pressure Tool and Gauge:
HCP9196 Aftermarket AIR VALVE STEM TOOL, handy 4-in-1 tool allows you to properly remove and insert the stem core, and also clean/chase/re-thread the internal and external stem threads.
$ 5.95
HCP9108 Aftermarket air-assisted forks LOW PRESSURE AIR GAUGE, heavy-duty 0-20 psi pencil (stick) pressure gauge marked in 1/2-psi increments, perfect for checking fork air pressures on models so equipped. Very high quality and much more accurate than standard tire pressure gauges, which is very important on the fork pressures as an imbalance between the fork pressure can lead to steering and stability issues, while too much pressure will blow out the lower tube oil seals!
$ 7.95
Steering Head & Shock Adjuster Tools:
HCP1692 Aftermarket steering head tube BEARING RACE REMOVAL TOOL. This very high quality, split flared-shaft bearing race removal device grasps the edges of the bearing races at four positions and pops them out with ease. Makes a sometimes very frustrating task simple.
$ 54.95
HCP7863 Aftermarket steering stem ring nut and shock absorber ADJUSTER TOOL, heavy-duty chrome plated spanner "wrench" is the correct size to work with all XJ-series bike steering stem ring nuts, as well as fitting the adjuster tab on rear shock absorbers (for those models that have non-air adjustable rear shocks). Very high quality, versatile tool to have in your box.
$ 39.95
HCP28446 Aftermarket steering stem ring nut and shock absorber ADJUSTER SOCKET, heavy-duty aluminum seep-well spanner socket (1/2” drive) makes tightening and proper torqueing of the upper ring nut a breeze (since this is a socket, rather than a "flat wrench", you can attach it to your torque wrench). Works with all XJ-series bike steering stem ring nuts, and probably many other makes/models as well. This is similar to the Motion Pro # 08-0570 spanner nut socket, but it is deep enough to be used on XJ models (since the steering stem protrudes a much greater distance than what the MP tool is designed to be used with). Very high quality, versatile tool to have in your box. This tool is available for rental.
$ 69.95
HCP8041 Aftermarket steering stem Ring Nut ADJUSTER WRENCH, special tanged wrench properly grabs the castellations in the ring nuts and holds firm, preventing the rounding-off of the ring nut when trying to loosen or install them using incorrect tools (such as channel lock pliers). Adjusts to a wide range of sizes to fit most bikes. A professional grade tool.
$ 99.95
Swingarm Tools:
HCP11336 Aftermarket standard depth 27mm SOCKET, used to remove your swingarm pivot bolt and nut on all XJ650 - XJ1100 models, and the rear axle castle nut on XJ1100 and XS1100 models. Chrome-plated, 6-point, 1/2" drive.
$ 19.95
HCP10300 Aftermarket 3/8"-to-1/2" DRIVE ADAPTER. For use with the HCP10298, HCP10299, HCP10530, HCP11336, HCP22025, or the HCP22947 sockets, and the 10mm and 12mm HCP10302 stud extractors included in the HCP10301 tool kit. Most people have the standard 3/8" drive ratchet wrenches in their tool kits already, and the larger 1/2" drive sockets can be used with those ratchets with this converter/adapter. Chrome-plated, 1/2" male drive, 3/8" female receiver.
$ 13.95
WHEEL AND TIRE TOOLS:
ld2) Concentrated LEAK DETECTOR FLUID reveals even the smallest of pressure leaks. Spray on the suspected areas......such as exhaust system joints, tire stems and valves, fork air system valves, etc.....and watch for the telltale mad rush of bubbles.
NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.
HCP12361 Aftermarket LEAK DETECTOR FLUID, in an 8-ounce non-aerosol bottle. Best to transfer into an old windex spray bottle (etc.) and use with a spray nozzle. Each:
$ 17.95
Wheel Bearing Service Tools:
Sold individually or as a complete shop set, these 'split-collar" SPLIT-COLLAR BEARING PULLERS AND DRIFT TOOLS make removing wheel bearings a pleasure rather than a chore! No more trying to find the proper size and length drift rod and then clumsily using it inside a long, blind tool.........that's just "too" old-skool. These pullers are simply placed within the bearing shaft hole, the drift rod is entered into the split collar slot, you give the rod a good whack with a hammer, and out she comes! Turns a pain-in-the-butt procedure into a 1-minute operation. NOTE: since these pullers work by "grabbing" onto the inner bearing race, once they are used to remove a bearing, the bearing is no longer re-usable.
A fine guide to wheel bearing replacement can be reviewed at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/35134
and
http://www.xj4ever.com/wheel bearing replacement.pdf
HCP17851 Aftermarket wheel bearing removal DRIFT ROD, special size tip properly fits all of the split-collar drivers below. You will need only one of these rods regardless of how many different size drivers you will use.
$ 29.95
HCP17853 Aftermarket wheel bearing removal SPLIT-COLLAR DRIVER, proper size for use on all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front wheel bearings.
$ 16.95
HCP17854 Aftermarket wheel bearing removal SPLIT-COLLAR DRIVER, proper size for use on all XJ550 left inner or right side rear wheel bearings, and all inner and outer rear wheel bearings on all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models, as well as on XJ1100 and XS1100 front wheel bearings. NOTE: 1984 XJ750RL Seca and all XJ900 models use a cylindrical bearing on the left inner position, and a bearing puller is not necessary for removal of that bearing.
$ 16.95
HCP17855 Aftermarket wheel bearing removal SPLIT-COLLAR DRIVER, proper size for use on all XJ550 left outer side rear wheel bearing and XJ1100 and XS1100 right side rear wheel bearing.
$ 16.95
HCP17856 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOLS KIT, one proper size drift and driver for use on all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front wheel bearings.
$ 44.95
HCP17857 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOLS KIT, one proper size drift and 2 drivers for use on all XJ550 rear wheel bearings.
$ 59.95
HCP17858 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOLS KIT, one proper size drift and driver for use on all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 rear wheel bearings or XJ1100 and all XS1100 front wheel bearings.
$ 44.95
HCP17859 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOLS KIT, one proper size drift and driver for use on XJ1100 and all XS1100 rear wheel bearings.
$ 44.95
HCP17865 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOL SET, one proper size drift and the 3 drivers for use on all XJ550 front and rear wheel bearings. NOTE: this kit contains all the drivers to also allow the removal of all front and rear wheel bearings on XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models.
$ 69.95
HCP17866 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOL SET, one proper size drift and the 2 drivers for use on all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front and rear wheel bearing removal.
$ 59.95
HCP17867 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOL SET, one proper size drift and the 2 drivers for use on XJ1100 and all XS1100 front and rear wheel bearing removal.
$ 59.95
HCP7850 Aftermarket wheel bearing REMOVAL TOOL SET, heavy-duty complete set of 6 different size split-collar drivers and two drift rods allows you to service any model front or rear wheel bearings on all XJ-series bikes and many other models.
$ 74.95
it56) Aftermarket specialty SOCKETS and ADAPTERS are for specific-use purposes as described below.
HCP22023 Aftermarket extended depth 19mm SOCKET, used to remove the front wheel axle castle nut on XJ750RL and XJ900 models, and the rear axle castle nut on XJ650, 1981-83 XJ750, and XJ900 models. Chrome-plated, 6-point, 3/8" drive.
$ 14.95
HCP22024 Aftermarket extended depth 22mm SOCKET, used to remove the front wheel axle castle nut on XJ550, XJ650, 1981-83 XJ750, XJ1100 and XS1100 models, and the rear axle castle nut on XJ550, XJ700, and XJ750-X models. Chrome-plated, 6-point, 3/8" drive.
$ 16.95
HCP11336 Aftermarket standard depth 27mm SOCKET, used to remove your swingarm pivot bolt and nut on all XJ650 - XJ1100 models, and the rear axle castle nut on XJ1100 and XS1100 models. Chrome-plated, 6-point, 1/2" drive.
$ 19.95
HCP10300 Aftermarket 3/8"-to-1/2" DRIVE ADAPTER. For use with the HCP10298, HCP10299, HCP10530, HCP11336, HCP22025, or the HCP22947 sockets, and the 10mm and 12mm HCP10302 stud extractors included in the HCP10301 tool kit. Most people have the standard 3/8" drive ratchet wrenches in their tool kits already, and the larger 1/2" drive sockets can be used with those ratchets with this converter/adapter. Chrome-plated, 1/2" male drive, 3/8" female receiver.
$ 13.95
Wheel Service Tools:
HCP12960 Aftermarket wheel ROLL STAND. This nifty little device is specially designed for people who do not have a centerstand, as it allows the wheel/tire unit to be rotated as if the rear wheel was off of the ground.......even though it's not, as the tire is setting on this small square "stand" that has free-spinning rollers front and back (sort of like a chassis dyno). So you can roll the rear wheel into this "stand", but the bike on the side stand, and rotate the wheel/tire unit for chain maintenance (550 models) or other such activities. NOTE: not designed for operating the rear wheel under engine load!
$ 89.95
Tire Mounting Tools:
Here's a variety of tools to make the chore of tire dis-mounting and mounting of your tires just a wee bit easier (and much less expensive than having a dealership perform these tasks!).
HCP12959 Aftermarket portable TIRE CHANGING STAND. Looks like a small, short stool, and allows you to lay the wheel (with brake rotors or rear sprocket still installed) onto the stand, getting it up off the ground, and holds the wheel securely-----allowing you to lever the tire onto or off of the rim easily (without having to fight a moving wheel). Can be used on all XJ-series wheels.
$ 159.95
HCP1753 Aftermarket tire BEAD POPPER, this molded plastic wedge, when firmly whacked with a mallet or hammer, gently "pops" stuck tire beads away from the inner rim flange without risking damage to the wheel rim in this critical area.
$ 29.95
HCP1754 Aftermarket tire BEAD SETTER. This large, tough molded rubber donut "o-ring", when placed between one lip of the tire and the rim, allows a tire to be inflated and the beads set "automatically" (instead of having to struggle trying to hold both tire beads against the rim). As soon as the opposite bead sets against the rim, the rising air pressure forces this bead setter out from the other side, thus seating the beads easily, quickly, and with a minimum of effort. For 16" wheels as used on the rear of all XJ550 Maxim, XJ650 Maxim, XJ750 Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 119.95
HCP1755 Aftermarket tire BEAD SETTER. This large, tough molded rubber donut "o-ring", when placed between one lip of the tire and the rim, allows a tire to be inflated and the beads set "automatically" (instead of having to struggle trying to hold both tire beads against the rim). As soon as the opposite bead sets against the rim, the rising air pressure forces this bead setter out from the other side, thus seating the beads easily, quickly, and with a minimum of effort. For 18-19" wheels as used on the front or rear of all XJ-series bikes.
$ 119.95
HCP1750 Aftermarket TIRE SPOON, 10" cupped "spoon" is safer to use on tubed tires than the tire irons listed below when removing the tire from the wheel. Plastic handle.
$ 24.95
HCP1751 Aftermarket TIRE SPOON, 16" cupped "spoon" is safer to use on tubed tires than the tire irons listed below when removing the tire from the wheel. Aluminum handle.
$ 39.95
HCP9772 Aftermarket CURVED TIRE IRON, 15" cast steel tire "pry bar" helps you lever the wheel bead over the edge of the tire safely and without risking damage to your wheel rims or the tire. You will need to use 2-3 tire irons (a mix of straight and curved versions) to mount a tire.
$ 21.95
HCP9773 Aftermarket STRAIGHT TIRE IRON, 16" forged steel tire "pry bar" helps you lever the wheel bead over the edge of the tire safely and without risking damage to your wheel rims or the tire. You will need to use 2-3 tire irons (a mix of straight and curved versions) to mount a tire.
$ 21.95
HCP1749 Aftermarket pair of nylon RIM EDGE PROTECTORS, these curved plastic guards, placed under the above tire irons, provide the utmost in protection from rim edge damage when changing tires.
$ 17.95
HCP9196 Aftermarket VALVE STEM TOOL, handy 4-in-1 tool allows you to properly remove and insert the stem core, and also clean/chase/re-thread the internal and external stem threads.
$ 5.95
HCP23811 Aftermarket PIVOTING-HEAD AIR CHUCK, heavy-duty air chuck features a fully pivoting head with allows easy access in tight spaces!. Very high quality aluminum body has standard 1/4” NPT internal female threads which allows use with all standard air hose couplers and fittings.
$ 39.95
HCP23817 Aftermarket high performance DIGITAL AIR PRESSURE GAUGE, heavy-duty, battery-powered digital display air pressure gauge display pressures in 0.1psi increments and is accurate to +/- 0.6psi at any pressure reading. Round aluminum body has a shock-resistant rubber boot, large back-lit easy to read LED display, push-button pressure-release valve, 18” long rubber hose with dual swivels and a brass ball-type air chuck. Very high quality and much more accurate than standard tire pressure gauges, this gauge makes checking your tire pressure a job you’ll look forward to doing.
$ 89.95
Wheel Balancing Tools:
HCP10490 Aftermarket WHEEL BALANCER. Contrary to popular belief, you don't have to spin-balance motorcycle wheels to achieve satisfactory results. With this simple tool, and a pair of hi-rise common jackstands ("hi-rise" means more than 15" lift off the floor level), you can professionally balance your own tire/wheel assembly. High quality tool-steel axle, low-drag bearings, and precision-machined wheel holder collets provide you with the means to spin-balance all XJ-series wheels in a matter of minutes. Set-up and balancing directions are included. Properly cared for (meaning: don't drop it or beat on it!), this balance will last a lifetime. WARNING: this device (and your knowledge of how to use it correctly) will tend to make you real popular with other bike owners............
$ 179.95
HCP12956 Aftermarket clip-on weight INSTALLATION and REMOVAL TOOL, for use with OEM or aftermarket clip-on style wheel weights only. For all XJ-series bikes. Each:
$ 19.95
HCP12955 Aftermarket clip-on weight INSTALLATION and REMOVAL TOOL, for use with OEM or aftermarket clip-on style wheel or spoke weights. For all XJ-series bikes. Each:
$ 24.95
HCP12957 Aftermarket stick-on weight REMOVAL TOOL, for use with OEM or aftermarket stick-on style wheel weights only. For all XJ-series bikes. Each:
$ 11.95