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SECTION P:
THE TOOLBOX, LOWER DRAWERS:
--Specialty tools for specific areas of the bike.
BRAKE SYSTEM TOOLS:
NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
Master Cylinder Tools:
bp1) Master Cylinder DEEP-REACH CIRCLIP PLIERS----these special extra-deep 90-degree angled circlip pliers allow you to easily remove and install the circlip (or "c'-clip) that hides way down inside the top of the plunger bore (below the rubber boot). Without a DEEP set of circlip pliers, you're going to fight and struggle with this part of your master cylinder rebuild project. Regular store-bought circlip pliers may have a 90-degree attachment, but unless they are extra-deep like these, they still won't be able to reach that circlip.
HCP1597 Aftermarket master cylinder CIRCLIP PLIERS, each:
$ 32.95
HCP2396 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For use on all XJ-series (except XJ750 Seca and XJ750 Euro models with cable-operated master cylinder) and 1981 XS1100 Midnight Special front master cylinder cover hold-down screws.
$ 9.95
HCP2397 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For use on all XS1100 front master cylinder cover hold-down screws (except 1981 XS1100 Midnight Special models).
$ 9.95
HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
$ 17.95
bp17) Master Cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN OUT WIRE PROBE TOOL.
HCP12929 Aftermarket master cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN OUT WIRE PROBE TOOL, hand-held port probe tool has the proper size wire needed to punch this hole clean, allowing you to either push through or twist the wire to act as a "drill bit". For all XJ-series master cylinders.
$ 10.95
HCP11177-12" Aftermarket master cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN OUT WIRE, 1-foot length of the proper size wire (wire only, no holder included) needed to punch this hole clean. For all XJ-series master cylinders.
$ 4.95
HCP2296 Aftermarket master cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN OUT DRILL BIT, hand-held port probe drill bit is the proper size to punch this hole clean, allowing you to either push through or twist the bit by hand (it is too small to fit into a standard drill chuck, so it must be used by hand or in a pin-vise). For all XJ-series master cylinders.
$ 12.95
bp21) Brake caliper or master cylinder PISTON POPPER. When brake caliper pistons or master cylinder plungers get seized up due to moisture in the brake fluid, they become next to impossible to remove......and no amount of air pressure is going to un-stick a fully frozen piston. For those situations, we have a simple solution: an easy-to-use, threaded brake "union bolt" with a standard grease-gun zerk fitting built in. Just replace the union bolt on your caliper with this bolt, hook up your hand-held grease gun, and a few minutes later that formerly stuck piston or plunger is in your hands! Even the smallest hand-held grease guns can generate over 3,000 psi, far more than the 150 psi you can hope to get out of an air compressor. Make sure you thoroughly and completely remove any and all grease from the caliper or master cylinder body and bore when finished!
HCP12230 Aftermarket brake system PISTON POPPER, for all model brake calipers, and all master cylinders except XJ750 Seca, XJ750 Euro, and XJ1100 rear.
$ 9.95
HCP21312 Aftermarket brake system PISTON POPPER, for all master cylinders on XJ750 Seca and XJ750 Euro models, and all XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
$ 7.95
HCP25425 Aftermarket rear master cylinder PISTON EXTRACTOR TOOL. If your piston is stuck in the cylinder bore, it’s an almost impossible task to remove it unless you have this tool. Used just like a standard “EZ-OUT” type device, this (and lots of penetrating oil beforehand!) will allow you to pull that piston out like a boss! For all XJ1100 and XS1100 models. NOTE: this tool is available for short term rental, please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at: http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630 and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
$ 12.95
HCP23117 Aftermarket front master cylinder PISTON EXTRACTOR TOOL. If your piston is stuck in the cylinder bore, it’s an almost impossible task to remove it unless you have this tool. Used just like a standard “EZ-OUT” type device, this (and lots of penetrating oil beforehand!) will allow you to pull that piston out like a boss! For all 1981-83 XJ750 Seca and all XJ750 Euro models. NOTE: this tool is available for short term rental, please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at: http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630 and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
$ 12.95
fh1) Aftermarket master cylinder PISTON BORE FLEX-HONE. If you want to rebuild your master cylinder correctly, like a professional would, then you'll need the correct tools-----and this is one of them.
These flexible ball-tipped wire cylinder hones are especially made to give the master cylinder piston bore a gentle and proper hone pattern, removing minor surface imperfections and buildup that simply cannot be reached in any other way. Design allows full reach to end of piston bore for complete precision coverage. Super-fine 320-grit material provides the necessary toughness to properly refinish the bore. NOTE: the stranded wire "shaft" of these hones will fit into most drill chucks, but it is advised you perform the operation at a very slow speed, and for no more than 30-45 seconds. ALWAYS keep the hone wet with brake fluid while honing!
HCP1743 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use with all XJ550 North American (single disc brake) master cylinders, 1984-85 FJ600 rear master cylinder, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II front or rear master cylinders, all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim master cylinders, XJ900 models rear master cylinder, and XJ1100 front master cylinder. Each:
$ 52.95
HCP1744 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use with all XJ550 European (dual disc brake) master cylinders, 1984-85 FJ600 front master cylinder, XJ650RJ Seca and XJ650 Turbo master cylinders, all XJ700 and XJ750-X models, all XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, 1984 XJ750RL front and all XJ900 front master cylinders. Each:
$ 54.95
HCP1745 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use on all XJ750 Seca, XJ750 Euro, all XS1100 (except 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special) front master cylinders, and the 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special rear master cylinder. Each:
$ 54.95
HCP1746 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use on all XJ1100 rear master cylinders. Each:
$ 54.95
If you don’t want to go to the expense of the proper flex-hone above, you should at least use the following stiff BRASS OR STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH to clean and polish the master cylinder bore.
Stainless-steel Wire Bristle Brushes:
HCP2762SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 (North American models) master cylinders.
$ 8.75
HCP2912SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Maxim and XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
$ 8.95
HCP2764SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ550 Euro, XJ650 Euro, XJ650RJ Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front master cylinders.
$ 9.95
Brass Wire Bristle Brushes:
HCP2762BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 (North American models) master cylinders.
$ 6.25
HCP2912BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Maxim and XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
$ 6.95
HCP2764BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ550 Euro, XJ650 Euro, XJ650RJ Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front master cylinders.
$ 7.95
HCP15662 Aftermarket RADIAL DISC BRUSH KIT, contains a properly sized miniature abrasive "flap" brush that is both small enough and abrasive enough to remove glue remnants and rust that is common in the sight window seat flange area.............the flat area where your new glass sight window needs to seat and seal against! 3/32" shank fits into most standard drill chucks (or dremel tools that have a properly sized collet) and allows you to make quick work of the polishing of this area before the installation of your new sight window.
$ 14.95
Disc Brake Caliper Tools:
bp21) Brake caliper or master cylinder PISTON POPPER. When brake caliper pistons or master cylinder plungers get seized up due to moisture in the brake fluid, they become next to impossible to remove......and no amount of air pressure is going to un-stick a fully frozen piston. For those situations, we have a simple solution: an easy-to-use, threaded brake "union bolt" with a standard grease-gun zerk fitting built in. Just replace the union bolt on your caliper with this bolt, hook up your hand-held grease gun, and a few minutes later that formerly stuck piston or plunger is in your hands! Even the smallest hand-held grease guns can generate over 3,000 psi, far more than the 150 psi you can hope to get out of an air compressor. Make sure you thoroughly and completely remove any and all grease from the caliper or master cylinder body and bore when finished!
HCP12230 Aftermarket brake system PISTON POPPER, for all model brake calipers, and all master cylinders except XJ750 Seca, XJ750 Euro, and XJ1100 rear.
$ 9.95
fh14) Aftermarket caliper bore CYLINDER BORE HONE. In order to refinish your brake caliper cylinder correctly, you'll need to restore the bore finish with a small-bore hone. Our adjustable, 3-shoe caliper hones adjust in size from 7/8" up to 2" in diameter and come complete with a set of 240-grit (medium) stones.
Replacement shoe sets are available in both medium (240) and fine-grit (400) finishes. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU PURCHASE A SET OF 400-GRIT STONES WHEN YOU BUY THE HONE, so that you can make two passes on your caliper bore when rebuilding your caliper: first with the "clean-up" 240-grit stones, and then change the shoes to the "polishing" 400-grit stones for a truly professional job.
NOTE: hones have a standard 1/4" round shank and can be operated manually or attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE! (brake fluid is a great lubricant).
HCP9955 Aftermarket 3-shoe brake CALIPER CYLINDER HONE, comes with a set of 240-grit stones. Works on all XJ-series front or rear brake calipers.
$ 24.95
HCP9957 Aftermarket replacement set of three brake caliper cylinder HONE SHOES, 240-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
$ 12.95
HCP9958 Aftermarket replacement set of three brake caliper cylinder HONE SHOES, 400-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
$ 12.95
fh211) These miniature radial wire-bristle brushes allows you to clean out and polish the dust seal and, especially, the fluid seal grooves in your caliper bodies using a standard dremel type of rotary tool. NOTE: please always wear safety glasses when using these brushes, as the brass wire bristles can (and do) come loose occasionally from the brush, and they'll always head straight for your eyeball when they do!
HCP15536 Aftermarket RADIAL BRASS BRISTLE-WIRE BRUSH is a properly sized, miniature brass brush that is both small enough, gentle enough, yet abrasive enough to remove the rubber debris that builds up in the caliper fluid seal groove. Failure to remove such build up leaves an uneven surface for the new fluid seal to seat against......sure to cause either immediate or longer-term performance problems. 1/8" shank fits into most standard dremel tool collets and allows you to make quick work of the polishing of this area before the installation of your new rubber seals.
$ 4.95
HCP15924 Aftermarket RADIAL BRASS BRISTLE-WIRE BRUSH is a properly sized, miniature brass brush that is both small enough, gentle enough, yet abrasive enough to remove the rubber debris that builds up in the much thinner caliper dust seal groove. Failure to remove such build up leaves an uneven surface for the new fluid seal to seat against......sure to cause either immediate or longer-term performance problems. 1/8" shank fits into most standard dremel tool collets and allows you to make quick work of the polishing of this area before the installation of your new rubber seals. NOTE: not needed on XJ650 Maxim, XJ650 Midnight Maxim, 1979-81 XS1100 Special, XS1100 Midnight Special, or XJ1100 / XS1100 Midnight Special rear calipers (since the dust seal on these calipers fits external to the caliper bore).
$ 4.95
Anti-Dive System Tools:
HCP12230 Aftermarket anti-dive brake plunger PISTON POPPER, for all models using an anti-dive system.
$ 9.95
HCP16049 Aftermarket fork anti-dive brake plunger assembly REVERSE HEX SOCKET TOOL. This tool allows the easy removal and installation of the "inverted/reversed" hex-drive plug used on the top of the anti-dive units on all XJ750-D, XJ750P (37H model), XJ900RK, and XJ900RL models.
$ 14.95
Brake System Fluid Bleeders:
bp11) Aftermarket BRAKE BLEEDER KITS. By eliminating the need to constantly pump-and-release the hand lever, and loosen and tighten the bleeder screw, you'll save yourself an incredible amount of time, effort, and swearing with these kits.
The master cylinders on these bikes push a very small amount of fluid with each hand stroke, and thus bleeding a system is a long, time-consuming chore----but, on the positive side, it's a really great way to build up a really strong, firm, manly handshake and grip. But there's other ways and times to accomplish that, so when all you want to do is bleed your brakes, then there's nothing better than these labor-saving tools.
NOTE: hand-bleeding a dry system...such as when you change brake lines, or have rebuilt the master cylinder or calipers....is next to impossible to do without the use of a Mity-Vac vacuum system. It will take you hours to do by hand. With a Mity Vac, you'll do it in about 10 minutes, tops.
The one-way valve kit is recommended for bleeding already full systems during annual fluid changes, etc.
Hints:
a) Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the reservoir when using these tools!
b) Make sure that your caliper bleeder screws are clean and pass fluid freely (and continue to do so once the system is evacuated) as old debris in your brake system settles down to the lowest point in the system (the caliper reservoir) and gets sucked into the bleeder screw during bleeding, this clogging the system and making it impossible to bleed.
c) Finally, here's one neat trick to get a truly professional, world-class level of brake bleeding accomplished: after you "finish" your final bleeding cycle, turn the forks so that the caliper you are bleeding is on the high side. Now do one final bleeding to rid the system of the last few tiny bubbles that tend to hide in the top of the caliper when the front wheel is straight ahead. The reason for this is: if you look at where the bleeder screw is on the caliper body, it is placed just slightly below the very top arc of the piston bore in the caliper. Turning the front wheel gets the internal bleeder screw port above this arc, and allows you to get all that pesky air out of your system!
And here are some other great tips for making this job easier:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-help-moved-from-dyi.111186
http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/brake-bleeding-2-days-in-no-results.27670
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-fyi.110663
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/another-xj750-seca-brake-bleed.103363
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/86-xj700-brake-bleed-issue-resolved.118163
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/86-xj700s-brake-bleed.118135
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-brakes.117886
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/this-brake-is-refusing-to-bleed.117322
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-xj750-seca-brakes.115517
HCP5908 MITY-VAC vacuum assisted brake bleeder system. This complete kit contains the patented Mity-Vac vacuum-assisted brake bleeder vacuum pump, a fluid cup with bleed and storage lids, and an assortment of clear hose lengths, adapters, and instruction manual.
$ 69.95
HCP8546 Aftermarket ONE-WAY VALVE BLEEDER HOSE KIT. The principle behind this simple device is just like the Speed Bleeder screws listed previously: a pressure-controlled one-way valve allows fluid out, but snaps shut to prevent air from rushing back in....thus allowing one person to easily bleed their brake system. Just release your standard brake caliper bleeder screw, install the clear tube over the fluid port, and begin pumping the lever. Nowhere near as quick and easy as the Mity-Vac listed above, but a very useful alternative to the muscle cramps you'll get trying to bleed your system using the old-fashioned (two-person) method. Instructions included. NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON EMPTY (DRY) SYSTEMS!
$ 22.95
Brake System General Tools and Supplies:
ft2) Aftermarket twisted-stem WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSHES. The greatest tool ever invented for cleaning bored and threaded holes, such as in carb bodies, float bowls, even master cylinder piston bores. Available in either 18-8 stainless steel or brass, these brushes not only help make the job of cleaning parts so much easier, but also insure that threaded passages are clean, clean, clean and less likely to strip or deform when fasteners are inserted once again. All brushes have a "finger-loop" in the end to make twisting action easier. Stainless brushes will last longer and can clean more aggressively, so be gentle when using them on aluminum carb bodies and bowls. Brass brushes are gentle on soft metals like carb bodies, but require more effort to produce a cleaner surface and wear out more quickly.
Please see the complete assortment of sizes for these products listed in the "General Tools - Cleaning and Polishing Tools and Supplies" section in the previous post.
cps2) Aftermarket high-quality WET-OR-DRY FINISHING SHEETS. Since these don't contain "sand", we really can't call them "sandpaper", but you get the idea. A large assortment of ultra-fine finishing paper is just the trick to polish the vacuum pistons and piston bores in your carbs, or master cylinder and brake caliper bores, ridding them of any surface oxidation and minor imperfections that will create interference or friction and prevent the pistons from moving freely---causing all sorts of high-idle (and other problems) in your carbs, or dragging brakes in your calipers. Our recommendation is to start with the 400- or 600-grit paper and move up 200 grit at a time until you get the bores micro-polished to an incredible smooth finish. One 9.5" x 11" sheet of each size will be enough to do four carbs or one pair of calipers; use two sheets of the 5-1/2" x 11" super-fine grit paper.
Of course, this premium finishing paper is just the thing you'll need for prepping any painted surface for painting, too.
Please see the complete assortment of sizes for these products listed in the "General Tools - Cleaning and Polishing Tools and Supplies" section in the previous post.
CARB TOOLS:
NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
v) IDLE MIXTURE SCREW TOOL is designed for the proper removal and fine adjustment of the idle mixture screw, preventing the destruction of the fragile straight slot head on these screws. An exact-fit blade is set at the end of a 12” long shaft, and the screw driving bit is rotated via a handle on the end of tool....this design not only eliminates stripping out the idle mixture screw slot, but also allows for very fine adjustment of the screw when fine-tuning the carbs (when using a colortune plug, etc.). The long horizontal shaft allows you to easily reach the center carbs from the outside of the carb bank, no need to lift the tank to access them. A knurled section on the shaft provides for a positive grip. A very neat little tool and it'll last a lifetime or two. Fits: all XJ550 all, all XJ650, all XJ700, all XJ750, all XJ900, XJ1100, and all 1980-81 XS1100 carbs.
HCP24870 Aftermarket idle mixture screw REMOVAL AND ADJUSTER TOOL, fits all Hitachi and all Mikuni idle mixture screws.
$ 27.95
YICS System Tuning Tools:
The following two tools are used only in "YICS" ("Yamaha Induction Control System") equipped engines. YICS was used on all XJ550 models, 1982-up XJ650 Maxim and XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700 air-cooled models, all XJ750 air-cooled models, 1983 XJ900RK, and 1982 XJ1100 models.
The 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and the 1982 XJ650 Seca (silver paint) models, did NOT use the YICS system.
- it has also been reported by some owners that some very early model 1982 XJ650 Maxim models did not use the YICS system, either.
- it has also been noted that very late-year model 1982 XJ650RJC (Canadian model XJ650RJ Seca red-painted models) did use a YICS engine.
YICS-engine bikes have front lower (oil pump) covers on both sides that have a rectangular "YICS" emblem in them below the cast-in YAMAHA wording. Non-YICS models have the oil pump covers with only the YAMAHA wording (or no wording at all) cast into the cover.
YICS bikes also use a valve cover that has the word YICS cast into the top surface, while non-YICS models are blank or are cast "YAMAHA" (or "YAMAHA 5VALVE on XJ700-X and XJ750-X models) into the valve cover.
vv7) Aftermarket YICS CHAMBER PORT BLANKING TOOL---this is the tool you'll need to perform a proper carb synchronization on any YICS motor......without it, you're just wasting time. This block-off tool is used to isolate each cylinder from the others while performing a carb synch. Updated version of the factory #90890-04068-00 tool. Some people claim that this tool is NOT needed to perform a proper synch; we disagree, and so do the Yamaha engineers who designed the YICS system. This quality tool features a snap-open and shut trunnion handle design like the original. This is NOT a cheap home-made tool and has all the proper seals, dimensions, and high-temp insulators as an original factory tool.
We recommend that you purchase a set of the HCP6380 replacement seals, too, as you'll eventually need to replace them.
HCP5460 Aftermarket YICS CHAMBER PORT BLANKING TOOL:
$ 59.95
HCP6380 Aftermarket insulator SEALS SET for the HCP5460 tool, set of 3 seals.
$ 8.95
c5) Yamaha YICS CHAMBER AND PASSAGES CLEAN-OUT TOOLS ---- ---- the YICS chamber runs side-to-side in the back of the cylinder head, and is accessed via a 12mm bolt on either end (this is the same chamber that the HCP5460 synch passage-block-off tool fits into). This chamber has four tiny passages in the top, one for each cylinder. These passages can accumulate soot and other material over time, effectively clogging or reducing their capability to pass the fuel-air mixture through them, and thus compromising their function….take a look for yourself:
The HCP1410SS bristle wire brush will effectively scrub the length of the passage bore, while the YICS port probe & clean-out tool (HCP1282) has a spear point that can punch through the toughest accumulation of carbon build-up, and has marked notches on the extension rod to indicate exactly how deep into the chamber the tool must be inserted to easily locate the passages. Convenient dowel handle allows for ease of use. A very handle tool to have around! For use on all XJ650 - XJ900 YICS-equipped engines (the HCP1282 port tool is not needed on XJ550 engines and is too short to reach the entire length on XJ1100 engines).
HCP1282 Aftermarket YICS chamber PASSAGE CLEAN-OUT TOOL:
$ 19.95
HCP1410SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, perfect size for cleaning out the YICS chamber in the cylinder head of all the built-up baked carbon before using the YICS tool. We recommend the use of an aggressive solvent when cleaning this passage, such as Hoppes #9 gun-cleaning fluid (available at gun shops) or similar. NOTE: this brush is too short to reach into the entire length of the chamber on XJ1100 engines.
$ 7.95
fh14) Aftermarket VACUUM PISTON BORE HONE. In order to refinish the vacuum piston bore correctly, you'll need to restore and refinish the bore with a small-bore hone. This adjustable, 3-shoe cylinder bore hone adjusts all the way down in size to 7/8" (and all the way up to 2" in diameter, so it can also be used for your brake calipers, too!) and come with a set of 240-grit (medium) stones.
Replacement shoe sets are available in both medium (240) and fine-grit (400) finishes. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU PURCHASE A SET OF 400-GRIT STONES WHEN YOU BUY THE HONE, as you really need the super-fine stones to put the proper finish on this piston bore: you can first "clean-up" the bore with the provided 240-grit stones, and then change the shoes to the "polishing" 400-grit stones for a truly professional job.
NOTE: hones have a standard 1/4" round shank and can be operated manually or attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE! (brake fluid is a great lubricant).
Having the carb piston bore fully polished is an incredibly important task when rebuilding a set of carbs, as any restriction to the free and almost friction-less movement of the vacuum piston will create a variety of performance-related problems. You can review this issue (the vacuum piston "CLUNK TEST") at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/1640
and see a nice video of a clunking piston at:
And the reason you want your vacuum pistons to operate as closely as possible to a "zero-resistance" state is because they must be able to perform, constantly, in the following manner; and if not, tuning and performance becomes troublesome or downright impossible:
You can further polish the bores with 600-, 800-, 1000-, 1200-, and 1500-grit FINISHING PAPERS (listed further below) for a "blueprinted" mirror-finish. You can cut the finishing paper(s) into approximately 2" tall x 3-1/2" rectangular strips and "wrap" the finishing paper around the hone shoes to make the final polishing steps simple and consistent.
Please see the complete assortment of sizes for these products listed in the "General Tools - Cleaning" section in the previous post.
NOTE: do not EVER attempt to polish away any discoloration on the vacuum pistons! The pistons are actually aluminum with a brass-like anodized coating. A brief and gentle "wipe" with 1500- or 2000-grit finishing paper is all that is needed on the pistons themselves.
NOTE: hones have a standard 1/4" round shank and can be operated manually or attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE! (brake fluid is a great lubricant).
HCP9955 Aftermarket 3-shoe brake CALIPER CYLINDER HONE, comes with a set of 240-grit stones. Works on all XJ-series front or rear brake calipers.
$ 24.95
HCP9957 Aftermarket replacement set of three HONE SHOES, 240-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
$ 12.95
HCP9958 Aftermarket replacement set of three HONE SHOES, 400-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
$ 12.95
NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.
HCP20849 Aftermarket fuel system FLUSH AND STABILIZER TREATMENT, the use of approximately 1 ounce per gallon of fuel --- added to the gas --- helps to loosen up accumulated crud and debris inside the petcock and the carbs, and thus allows it to be dissolved and run thru the engine. It also acts as a fuel stabilizer to prevent fuel breakdown and varnish formation......will stabilize fuel for up to two years. Using it during your "winterizing" procedure will help prevent the dreaded clogged-carbs syndrome when you go to start up your bike when springs rolls around. NOTE: the recommended dosage of 1 ounce per gallon will require a different amount per bike model, since all XJ's have different sized tanks. Do not follow the "more-is-better" philosophy when using this product! It is not unusual for the engine to produce a whitish-colored exhaust while this additive is being combusted.
By the way, the best fuel stabilizer to use, if you can easily find it, is race gas…..expensive, but it works:
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/gasoline.html
Tank capacities for reference:
XJ550 Maxim: 16.6 liters (4.4 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.6 liters (1.0 gallon) reserve.
XJ550 Seca: 19.5 liters (5.1 gallons) total; main supply is 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons), and 3.5 liters (0.9 gallons) reserve.
XJ650 Maxim/Midnight Maxim: 16.6 liters (4.4 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.6 liters (1.0 gallon) reserve.
XJ650RJ Seca: 23.3 liters (6.2 gallons) total; main supply is 19.5 liters (5.2 gallons), and 3.8 liters (1.0 gallon) reserve.
XJ650 Euro: 21.7 liters (4.7 gallons) total; main supply is 19.5 liters (4.1 gallons), and 2.2 liters (0.6 gallons) reserve.
XJ650 Turbo (1982): 18.5 liters (4.2 gallons) total; main supply is 15.5 liters (3.4 gallons) total, and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) reserve.
XJ650 Turbo (1983): 19.0 liters (5.0 gallons) total; main supply is 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons), and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) is reserve.
XJ700 all: 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750 Seca (1981-83): 23.1 liters (6.1 gallons) total; main supply is 19.0 liters (5.0 gallons), and 4.1 liters (1.1 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750 Seca (1984): 27.0 liters (7.1 gallons) total; main supply is 22.0 liters (5.8 gallons), and 5.0 L (1.3 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750 Maxim/Midnight Maxim: 21.1 liters (5.6 gallons) total; main supply is 17.0 liters (4.5 gallons), and 4.1 liters (1.1 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750-X: 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) is reserve.
XJ900: 27.0 liters (7.1 gallons) total; main supply is 22.0 liters (5.8 gallons), and 5.0 L (1.3 gallons) is reserve.
XJ1100: 23.1 liters (6.1 gallons) total; main supply is 19.0 liters (5.0 gallons), and 4.1 liters (1.1 gallons) is reserve.
NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.
16-ounce can is the right size to accommodate 2 complete engine flush procedures.
$ 23.95
NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.
HCP8540 Aftermarket carb diaphram rubber RnR FLUID. Dissolved and chlorinated paraffin wax is the best (and perhaps the only) way to safely bring some life back into stiff, worn rubber material... such as that found in those all-important carb piston diaphragms. Years of hard life inside of your carb take their toll, and whenever your carb is apart for service, and generous application of this product will help to clean, maintain, and restore the flexibility, while prolonging their usable service life. 10cc dripper bottle contains enough fluid to do about eight diaphragms. Simple to use, spread on, wait a few minutes, wipe off, repeat and you're done!
$ 9.95
HCP1410SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, perfect size for cleaning out the YICS passage in the cylinder head of all the built-up baked carbon before using the YICS tool. We recommend the use of an aggressive solvent when cleaning this passage, such as Hoppes #9 gun-cleaning fluid (available at gun shops) or similar.
$ 7.95
j2) Aftermarket Morgan CARBTUNE PRO 4-COLUMN SYNCH GAUGE TOOL.......brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. This is the one that professionals use and recommend, and is superior in design, ease of use, and accuracy versus vacuum gauges and all other versions, whether fluid-filled or otherwise. Uses damped stainless steel sliding dowel rods instead of mercury or the "blue mystery fluid", giving accurate, safe, and easy-to-read measurements. More expensive than other synch tools and worth it. Use it even once and you'll wonder how you lived without it.
NOTE: this tool is used on all XJ engines, regardless of whether it is a "YICS" engine or not, and is necessary to perform the "running" or vacuum synch.
A FEW WORDS ABOUT “BENCH SYNCHING”:
If your carbs have been removed from the engine for a rebuild, then it is also suggested that a “bench synch” procedure be performed, which does not require any special tools perform (besides a paper clip or the like)….the only purpose of the bench synch procedure is merely to get the carbs set up “close enough” to allow the engine to start and run, at which time a running (vacuum) synch of the engine should be immediately performed, using the HCP96Q synch gauges, A great visual guide to the bench synch process can be seen at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/6366
A FEW WORDS ABOUT “VACUUM SYNCHING”:
If your engine will actually start up and run (even badly), then you don’t need to worry about “pre-setting” any of the synch screws or the butterfly openings; the only purposes of that “bench synching” process is to get the engine in a “close enough in horseshoes or hand grenades” setting to allow the engine to start up. Once you get the engine running, you’ll perform a running or “vacuum synch” by:
Step 1) synch carb 3 to 4 (using “synch screw No. 4” pictured in the thread below)
Step 2) then synch carb 1 to 2 (using “synch screw No. 1” pictured in the thread below)
Step 3) and then synch carbs 1+2 to carbs 3+4 (using “synch screw No. 2” pictured in the thread below)
Step 4) and you’re done!
Here’s a pretty good video, and although he doesn’t show you the actual synch screws being adjusted, you can see those in the image on this thread (first picture):
Note that the above thread is all about a non-running (or so-called “”bench synch”), which as I’ve said above, is not necessary if your engine is already capable of running on its own……the non-running "bench-synch" procedure is only necessary to make sure your engine can be started up right after a carb teardown / rebuild (since the butterfly positions may be totally out-of-whack); but once the engine can be started and run under its own power ---- no matter how poorly --- then the running (vacuum) synch is all that’s needed....and note that is is needed, right away, first thing, or woe be unto you.......
And of course, as part of a regular engine tune-up procedure, the vacuum-synching procedure is a must.
Remember, vacuum synch is all about getting the same amount of vacuum “pull” on each cylinder, and not about any absolute level / amount of vacuum pull…….that is why on the Carbtune gauge that he's using in the video, he isn’t shooting for any particular “height” of the sliding steel rods, he’s just getting them to the same level (“height”) on the gauge. If using a set of homemade “fluid-bottles” synch tool, you’ll just shoot for the same fluid level in the bottles as you go thru the process (the fluid levels are analogous to the levels of the sliding rods in the Carbtune gauge). Same thought applies if using flickering-needle vacuum gauges….the actual amount of vacuum isn’t important, only that each cylinder ends up drawing the same amount of vacuum as all of the others by the end of the process.
www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/carb-sync-lession.129947/#post-658338
Please note that Yamaha specifies that the engine synchronization procedure should be performed every 2,500 - 4,000 miles to insure the maximum performance and life-expectancy from your engine.
Also, please note! you can sometimes find these same sticks selling at a discount at various places, but most of these places are offering a much older, now-discontinued Carbtune II version, rather than the latest, much-improved Carbtune PRO version that is offered here. The PRO version is much more durable, accurate, and easier to clean and service than the older version.
HCP96Q Aftermarket Morgan CARBTUNE PRO 4-COLUMN SYNCH GAUGE TOOL.
$ 119.95
j3) Aftermarket Carbtune Pro STORAGE AND TRANSPORT CASE for the above carbtune pro synch stick......a heavy duty, nicely made zippered and clasp-closure storage case to hold the gauge and all the accessories neatly and safely. You REALLY want to have this to safely store and transport the (somewhat fragile) synch gauges!
HCP1287 Aftermarket Carbtune Pro STORAGE AND TRANSPORT CASE.
$ 19.95
j5) Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT....brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. If you really want to tune your multi-carbs to perfection, you'll have to use this unique "see-through" spark plug that allows you to view the combustion chamber flame color in real-time, thus allowing accurate (rather than guesswork) adjustments to your idle mixture screws. Use it once and you won't believe how you ever got by without it, and will pity those who don't have one of their own. Beware: you'll find that a lot of people now want to be your "friend" and have you come and tune on their bikes, once they find out you have a Colortune!
Also, please note! you can find quite a few of these plugs at a discount at various places, but most of these places are selling an older, now-discontinued "automotive" version of the Gunson colortune plug. While there are no fitment differences between the automotive and "motorcycle" versions of these plugs, just be aware that the automotive versions were designed to be used in a water-cooled engine, and thus have a significantly lower heat tolerance----and if these plugs overheat, the "clear" window either goes cloudy or just simply fractures.
NOTE: the proper use of the Colortune plug requires you to:
a) have your valve clearances within spec,
b) have the engine proper vacuum-synched,
c) have the YICS chamber blanking tool installed (if it is a YICS engine),
d) perform a re-synch of the engine after each cylinder is color-tuned. This colortune - synch - colortune - synch etc. iteration is necessary as any adjustments made to each cylinder (as determined by the results of the colortune operation) throws the engine out of synch.
e) the above procedure is the only way to truly and properly "tune" a multi-carbed engine!
The following overview video show the Colortune Plug in action:
going from orange (rich) to blue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hFUvQ4gaPc
Note in the above video how much easier it is to see the combustion color, especially when looking at the plug “window” from off-center (i.e. looking straight down the centerline of the plug results in the actual spark color “diluting” the combustion color). Also note that it is being filmed in a dark area, making the “neon blue” color easier to observe than when observed in strong light.
Here’s a good one showing a colortune being hooked up incorrectly (arcing):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ_mZJYIq8I&feature=related
And here's a super-sized colortune plug, don't try this at home kids!:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9V9u1KvyM5k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVTfNSTR39o
Another good diagnostic tip: a cylinder running too lean can exhibit a periodic orange flame and sooty plug. If the cylinder is too lean to fire, the fuel accumulates for a couple of cycles, then when it does ignite the total fuel charge is too rich (orange flame) with the resultant unburned hydrocarbon deposits resulting (the sooty plug).
And here is a helpful tip for XJ700-X and XJ750-X owners:
- " I had a terrible time trying to get the X color-tuned because there would be an arc to the wall of the cylinder head, and it made reading the color difficult. Because the sight window in the colortune for the X is so narrow, there is less light for you to see, and using the "site tube" with the mirror at the end made it very difficult for me to see clearly what was going on.
I had a very thin sheet of Teflon that I cut into a 4" x 6" section and after removing the spark plug I curled the 6" section and slid the 4" long tube down inside where the spark plug goes. This Teflon was originally used to prevent high voltage from arcing in a radio amplifier, and I figured it might work for this as well. The Teflon, being white, reflected the light from the glass in the colortune and it was thick enough to prevent any arcing from the colortune extender.
So the double benefit was to seemingly amplify the amount of light that I could see and to prevent any arcing from happening. I looked on eBay and it seems like there are quite a few pieces of thin Teflon that are very affordable. If arcing is a problem for you with your X, this is probably a good solution for you. This really saves a lot of time with the X engines.:
Please remember, though, that a Colortune is NOT used to set your carbs at anything other than idle rpm's!!
NOTE: 10mm plugs are used on all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models. 12mm plugs are used on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 S/SH models. 14mm plugs are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750 non-X, XJ900RK, , RL, F, N, and FN models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models.
HCP95A Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT, for 10mm spark plugs. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "C" are 10mm, and are used on all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models.
$ 89.95
HCP95B Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT, for 12mm plugs. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "D" are 12mm, and are used on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 S/SH models. And due to the depth of the spark plug well on the water-cooled engines, it can be a challenging experience to install and remove the Colortune plug on those engines......
$ 79.95
HCP95C Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT, for 14mm spark plugs. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "B" are 14mm, and are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750 non-X, XJ900RK, RL, F, N, and FN models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models.
$ 79.95
j5a) Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with its copper sealing washer). Available for those who wish to have more than one plug available for use without having to buy another complete set. NOTE: all the accessory pieces used with the HCP95A-B-C kits (listed above).....including the short plastic "socket", the long extension tube/socket, the viewing tube, and the high-tension wire lead.....are the same between all sets.
HCP2751W Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with copper washer), 10mm.
$ 49.95
HCP2752W Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with copper washer), 12mm.
$ 59.95
HCP2753W Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with copper washer), 14mm.
$ 59.95
j5c) Aftermarket Colortune spark plug WASHER ONLY……for those who have lost the special sealing washer used with the colortune plug, we offer these replacements:.
HCP2758-10A Aftermarket Colortune spark plug COPPER WASHER ONLY, for 10mm plug.
$ 19.95
HCP2758-12B Aftermarket Colortune spark plug COPPER WASHER ONLY, for 12mm plug.
$ 19.95
HCP2758-14C Aftermarket Colortune spark plug COPPER WASHER ONLY, for 14mm plug.
$ 19.95
j5b) Aftermarket Colortune Spark Plug 14mm-to-12mm ADAPTER. Available for those who have bikes than use both 12mm and 14mm plugs, but only want to buy one Colortune Plug and use it on both engines. This adapter allows the use of a 14mm plug in a 12mm spark plug hole. NOTE: not for use on cylinders under 180cc displacement (720cc or smaller on a 4-cylinder motor) as the extra volume that this adapter increases the combustion chamber volume, which in turn decreases the effective compression ratio of the engine---thus resulting in an unreliable reading from the plug. Only really useful for XJ750-X owners, as they are the only XJ-series bikes that have 12mm plugs AND have a cylinder displacement greater than 180cc.
HCP6496 Aftermarket Colortune plug 14mm-to-12mm ADAPTER.
$ 39.95
j5b) Aftermarket Colortune Spark Plug 14mm-to-12mm ADAPTER. Available for those who have bikes than use both 12mm and 14mm plugs, but only want to buy one Colortune Plug and use it on both engines. This adapter allows the use of a 14mm plug in a 12mm spark plug hole. NOTE: not for use on cylinders under 180cc displacement (720cc or smaller on a 4-cylinder motor) as the extra volume that this adapter increases the combustion chamber volume, which in turn decreases the effective compression ratio of the engine---thus resulting in an unreliable reading from the plug. Only really useful for XJ750-X owners, as they are the only XJ-series bikes that have 12mm plugs AND have a cylinder displacement greater than 180cc.
HCP6496 Aftermarket Colortune plug 14mm-to-12mm ADAPTER.
$ 21.95
j77) Aftermarket carb tuning and synchronization AUXILIARY FUEL TANK. This handy plastic mini-tank allows you to conveniently and safely store the small amount of fuel you'll need when operating the engine when the main fuel tank is removed....such as during synch procedures and colortuning efforts. Tank comes with hanger wire, 4' of the proper 1/4" fuel hose, and an in-line on-off valve.
HCP159 Aftermarket plastic AUXILIARY FUEL TANK, half-gallon capacity. Gravity feed design, not suitable for fuel-injected bikes, but perfect for all XJ models. Includes plastic tank with lid, hanger bracket, fuel line, and an on-off control valve. XJ1100 models will have to use a fuel "T-fitting" to split the outlet hose to the two carb fuel inlet. This is a high-quality, shop-grade tank, not some flimsy chain-store product!
$ 69.95
af12) OEM and aftermarket carb fuel bowl FLOAT HEIGHT and FUEL LEVEL GAUGES......let's face it, setting the float level heights on carbs is a real pain in the butt (and that's being as nice as I can be about it!). You normally have to take the carbs on-and-off the bike two or three times to get the settings right, rig up some special leveling fixtures, etc. etc. If you've done it before, you know what I mean. These special tools can help lessen this nightmare (but not eliminate it, sorry!).
Yamaha service manuals define the float-height be set via the "clear tube" method, whereby you install a clear piece of tubing into the carb bowl drain outlet, open the drain screw, and then hold the tube upwards against the edge of the carb bowl and see how high up the fuel rises in the tube, and then compare this level to a specified distance below the carb bowl-carb body interface.
A simplified "shortcut" method is to set one of the floats correctly (as measured by the fuel level), and then measure the "height" of the float off of the carb base. Using this known "correct" float height measurement, you can then set the remaining three carb float heights using that once correct measurement, and then using the clear-tube measure to simply check the results (and tweak as is necessary to get all the fuel levels as close a possible to each other).
Setting your fuel levels correctly is important to having your engine operate correctly. The fuel levels in the bowls have a direct effect on the air-fuel mixture ratio ("rich" or "lean") of each carb, and thus both the accuracy and the equality of those levels between the different carbs should be adjusted with care.
These gauges will allow you to do just that.
Here's the Holy Grail on this subject:
http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf
And here’s a good visual guide to some problems that you might run into:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/setting-the-floats-mikuni-not-gettin-any-readings-fixed.40395
and here’s a wonderful video from TurpentyneTV that shows the whole process in excruciating detail:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8yu-WjcglY
Float Height Measurement Tools:
HCP9798 We offer this inexpensive FLOAT HEIGHT RULER that comes with a sliding "pocket clip" (which doubles as a fixed position pointer), allowing you to duplicate your float setting measurements from one carb to the next. Ultra-thin and only a 1/4" wide, this 150mm (6") measuring stainless steel ruler has black etched rulings and is a valuable addition to your carb tool arsenal.
$ 8.95
HCP4 Professional quality sliding-arm FLOAT HEIGHT GAUGE is specifically designed for measuring float heights and features a sliding arm that allows you to accurately measure the distance from the carb body base to any point on the float itself (normally to the top or bottom edge of the float, when the needle is in its "just-barely-closed" position) and then apply this exact same setting to the other carbs. A great time saver for this technically simple, but very time-consuming task.
$ 33.95
Fuel Level Measurement Tools:
NOTE: Hitachi and Mikuni carbs use the same "clear tube gauge" to check the fuel level within their bowls, but all Hitachi (and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and all XS1100 Mikuni) carbs feature a cast bowl drain nipple port that also acts as a receiver to the fuel level gauge......just plug-and-play (well, depends on what your definition of "play" is, but you get the picture..........). A great image of the proper use of this clear-tube "gauge" can be seen at:
http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf
and see page 8.
Note that the factory-recommended method is properly shown above; the tube should be wrapped around to the side of the outer carb, and "centered" front-to-back along the body.
All other Mikuni carb float bowls do not have the cast-in bowl drain nipple port, and thus the "clear tube" has nothing to attach to. Yamaha provided a separate, brass TUBE ADAPTER that could be temporarily inserted and removed from the bowl drain hole on the Mikuni bowls, thus providing an attachment nipple for those models. An aftermarket version of this non-permanent adapter is available as part HCP26218 below, and we also offer a permanent bowl DRAIN NIPPLE for Mikuni carbs that can be easily installed and provided a permanent "nipple" for the bowl drain port, thus making them functionally just like the Hitachi bowls (part HCP8494 below). You will need to use one or the other of these two adapters in order to check fuel levels on Mikuni bowls (except XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 bowls).
HCP1592 OEM clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the graduated fuel gauge up against the side of the fuel bowl. Black millimeter markings on the measurement tube allow you to easily determine the fuel level with respect to the bowl-to-body reference point. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models with Mikuni carbs, and all other Mikuni carbs using our HCP26218 adapter tool or the HCP8494 drain outlet nipples).
$ 34.95
HCP4926x2 Aftermarket clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear rubber tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the other end against the side of the fuel bowl. Unlike the original gauge HCP1592 listed above, this is just a clear section of fuel line and does NOT have the upper end with any graduated markings. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models with Mikuni carbs, and all other Mikuni carbs using our HCP26218 adapter tool or the HCP8494 drain outlet nipples).
$ 10.95
HCP26218 Aftermarket float bowl FUEL LEVEL TUBE ADAPTER TOOL, for use on all Mikuni carb bowls which do not have a tube nipple cast into the bowl drain output port (note that XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models, do have a cast-in bowl drain nipple, and thus do not use (nor need) this product). Unlike Hitachi carbs, Mikuni float bowls do not have a permanent float bowl drain outlet port fitting which the clear tube fuel level gauge can be attached onto; nope, there's just an empty hole there. Yamaha supplied dealership service departments with a special o-ringed brass adapter fitting that pops into this hole, and which could be used during fuel-level checks….moving this (non-permanent) adapter from bowl-to-bowl as the fuel-level checking process proceeded. This reproduction o-ringed aluminum adapter properly duplicates the function of the original (note: for a permanent adapter solution, you can use the HCP8494 bowl drain nipples below).
$ 11.95
HCP8494 Aftermarket float bowl DRAIN NIPPLE, for use on all Mikuni carb bowls which do not have a tube nipple cast into the bowl drain output port (note that XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models, do have a cast-in bowl drain nipple, and thus do not use (nor need) this product). Unlike Hitachi carbs, Mikuni float bowls do not have a permanent float bowl drain outlet port fitting which the clear tube fuel level gauge can be attached to; no, there's just an empty hole there. The factory had a special o-ringed brass adapter fitting that fit into this hole that would be used during fuel-level checks, but very few people have that adapter and even it is somewhat cumbersome to use. These precisely machined nipples are designed for permanent installation into the Mikuni float bowls----just tap them in place, they are a friction-fit----and them you can slip the fuel-level gauge tube directly onto the protruding end of the fitting. Simple 20-second installation: clean the inside of the drain port in the bowl, use a bit of silicone lube on the adapter, place proper end in drain port, and gently tap in place with a hammer. Once installed, it's leak-free but can still be removed (not easily, but it can!), in case your preferences ever change in the future. Protrudes approximately 1/8" from the drain port, enough to install the clear tube gauge but not enough to interfere with other carb functions. Looks original once installed. Fits Mikuni carbs used on all XJ550 models, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 models. Use 1 per float bowl. Each:
$ 9.95
HCP8494SET4 Aftermarket float bowl DRAIN NIPPLES, for Mikuni carbs, set of 4:
$ 29.95
HCP1408SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 8.0mm diameter, great for the throttle shaft bore and the emulsion tube bore within the carb body on all Hitachi and Mikuni carbs, and is also the correct size for the float bowl fuel outlet port on Mikuni carbs bowls (except XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models). Highly recommended to be used to clean and scour the drain port hole before using either of the above Mikuni bowl adapter fitting or drain nipples.
$ 5.95
Carb Rack Service Stand:
HCP1590-XX Aftermarket CARB SERVICE STAND, heavy-duty steel stand allows you to rotate, pivot, spin, flip, and lift carbs up to a convenient working height. These features, along with a built in level gauge, allow you to service the carbs conveniently and is especially useful for setting your fuel levels properly. Heavy metal base prevents tipping and can be bolted or clamped to a workbench surface. Includes adapters to fit your specific model carbs. You must specify which model bike you are working on so we can provide the correct mounting adapters!
$ 169.95
Carb Rack Assembly Alignment Plate:
j177) Aftermarket carb rack ALIGNMENT PLATE. When you break the individual carbs out of the rack, one of the crucial re-assembly procedures is to make sure that all the carb bodies are in "perfect" alignment with each within the rack. This is critical, as mis-alignment of one carb body to another will result in different throttle valve opening positions between differing (adjacent) carbs that no amount of synch screw adjusting will ever remedy.
As you start installing the screws into the individual carb bodies (mounting them into the upper and lower carb rack bracket bars), the carb bodies will try to twist and "walk" from each other due to the torsional forces being applied to the screws and the precise alignment of the screw mounting holes.
Yamaha specifies the use of a flat piece of plate glass to perform this procedure.....the idea being, if you set the carb throats down against a perfectly flat surface, you can apply downward pressure onto the carb bodies to insure that the throats stay perfectly flat against the glass plate during re-assembly and tightening of the rack bracket screws, insuring accurate carb body alignments within the assembled rack.
This 1/2" thick flat plate serves this purpose, and also has a relief slot cut into the center of it to allow clearance for the throttle cable bracket linkage or the idle speed screw head, so that those items do not interfere with the re-assembly procedure (an inconvenient issue to deal with when using plate glass). Non-slip foot pads prevents the plate from trying to slide around while you're fiddling with the screws and the carb rack. Works for all XJ-series carbs.
NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOL IS AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630
and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
HCP20990 Aftermarket carb rack re-assembly ALIGNMENT PLATE.
$ 29.95
Float Pin Extraction Tool:
it32) Aftermarket handheld CENTER PUNCH is useful for making punch points when starting drill bits, etc. These small (5" long, 1/2" diameter knurled body) punches have a hardened alloy steel punch tip, and does not require the use of a striking hammer.
NOTE: the float pin on Mikuni carbs is held in via a friction fit on one end of the pin, and it is not uncommon for these pins to become seized in the posts.........however, one end of the pin is not (from the factory) "mushroomed"................if yours are, it's probably because someone was pounding at it with a punch trying to get it loose, and weren't able to. Any amount of "swollen" or mushrooming of the end of the pin should be gently removed with a file or similar tool, before pin extraction is attempted.
But even in the best of cases, because of the "friction-fit" design of these pins, removing them can be a tricky process. We then recommend you try this trick:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/19168
But whatever you do, don't try to "force" it out, or it might end up like this:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/17843
HCP17638 Aftermarket miniature hand-held CENTER PUNCH, proper sized thin point tip is the perfect size for driving out the float pins on Mikuni carbs. Adjustable punch force control and a knurled, sure-grip handle makes this a "must-have" tool when working on your carbs.
$ 18.95