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SECTION O:

EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, AND PAINT:

--Emblems/Nameplates.

--Stripes and Decals.



DECALS, STRIPES, AND EMBLEMS:

There's really no better way to make a classic bike look new than to detail and polish the various mechanical parts, and then detail the bodywork with brand new trim. We've got an assortment of original and reproduction nameplates, emblems, and stripe sets and decals to help you bring back that like-new, factory-original appearance.

We're going to start from the front of the bike, and work our way back from there.......

HELPFUL HINT: an easy way to remove stick-on emblems is with a little bit of heat (from a hair dryer, for instance---to soften the glue) and then use a taut, fresh piece of fishing line or dental floss to "saw" between the emblem and the body panel.....and then mineral spirits or WD40 makes a fine adhesive remover.



Lower Fork Bracket Emblems:

ed3) OEM and reproduction front lower FORK BRACKET EMBLEMS fit on the lower steering under-bracket and usually spell out the name "YAMAHA" in big letters against a chrome or black background. This emblem really details up the front end, as well as hiding the brake hose junction block(s) and the steering bracket.



HCP2490 OEM front lower FORK BRACKET EMBLEM, all XJ550 Maxim and 1981 XJ550 Seca models. Although not correct for '82-3 XJ550 Seca models, this emblem will fit those models, too.
$ 69.95

HCP2448 OEM front lower FORK BRACKET EMBLEM, for all XJ650 Maxim and 1983 XJ750 Maxim models. Although not correct for the XJ650 Midnight Maxim or XJ750 Midnight Maxim models (the lettering would be gold on those models), this emblem will fit those bikes, too. Chrome plated plastic with black YAMAHA wording.
$ 74.95

HCP2468 OEM front lower FORK BRACKET EMBLEM, for all XJ750 Seca and 1982 XJ750 Maxim models. Chrome plated plastic with black YAMAHA wording.
$ 69.95



HCP2509 OEM front fork emblem MOUNTING BOLT, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ550 models, this is the special bolt with an internally-threaded head which accepts the side reflector mounting stud. Each:
$ 19.95

HCP2510 OEM front fork emblem CAP PLUG, use 1 per HCP2509 bolt on all XJ550 Maxim models, and all XJ550 Seca models without a fairing. Each:
$ 17.95



HCP2464 OEM front fork emblem MOUNTING SCREW, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ650 Maxim and 1983 XJ750 Maxim models, each:
$ 2.95

HCP2474 OEM front fork emblem MOUNTING SCREW, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ650 Midnight Maxim, XJ750 Seca models, 1982 XJ750 Maxim models, and XJ750 Midnight Maxim models, each:
$ 1.00

HCP2511 OEM front fork emblem MOUNTING SCREW, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ650RJ Seca models, each:
$ 0.95

HCP2495 OEM front fork emblem MOUNTING SCREW, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ1100 models, each:
$ 1.95



HCP2508 OEM front fork emblem mounting bolt FLAT WASHER, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ550 models, each:
$ 1.95

HCP2512 OEM front fork emblem mounting bolt FLAT WASHER, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ650RK Seca models, each:
$ 1.95

HCP2462 OEM front fork emblem mounting bolt FLAT WASHER, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ700 and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 0.95


HCP2463 OEM front fork emblem mounting stud SPRING NUT, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ700 and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 1.25

HCP20676 Aftermarket front fork emblem mounting stud SPRING NUT, use 2 per emblem, for all XJ700 and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 0.75




Front Fairing Emblems and Decals:

HCP19952 OEM front fairing DECAL, use 1 per bike, front center, "YAMAHA", for all FJ600 models.
$ 9.95

HCP19954 OEM front fairing DECAL, use 2 per bike, side, for all FJ600 and XJ900RL models, says "YAMAHA", each
$ 29.95


HCP2485 OEM front fairing DECAL, use 1 per bike, for all XJ900RK models that are painted red, says "YAMAHA", each:
$ 11.95



Ignition Switch Cover and Handlebar Cover Emblems:

HCP1272 OEM ignition switch cover EMBLEM, for all XJ550 Maxim models, black plastic shield which says "YAMAHA":
$ 14.95

HCP13549 OEM ignition switch cover emblem RUBBER GROMMET, for all XJ550 Maxim models, use 1 per bike.
$ 7.95



HCP2486 OEM handlebar center cover EMBLEM, for all FJ600 and XJ900RK, RL, FN, and F models, small rectangular black emblem which says "YAMAHA":
$ 29.95




Fuel Tank Emblems:

ed4) OEM and reproduction FUEL TANK EMBLEMS fit on the sides of the tank and spell out the name "YAMAHA" in big letters against a black background. Most emblems used adhesive tape to mount, while all XJ550, XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 emblems are retained to the tank via two small screws.

NOTE: XJ650RJ Seca tank emblems (HCP2408) may be successfully used on all XJ750 and XJ900RK gas tanks in place of the original HCP144 or HCP145 emblems for those models. Although the front-to-back and top-to-bottom emblem curvature is slightly different between all of the models, it is not enough to be noticeable once in installed. The HCP2408 emblems have a brushed silver finish on the letters, while the XJ750 and XJ900RK emblems have a polished gold finish on the letters.


HCP138 OEM right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished gold raised lettering. Although this emblem is for the right side of the tank, it will also fit the left side also, although you will not be able to get it to lie perfectly flush with the tank surface. For all XJ550 Maxim models. Uses two small screws to mount each emblem.
$ 99.95


HCP142 OEM fuel tank emblem MOUNTING SCREW, uses 2 per emblem, for all XJ550 models, and all XJ650 Maxim and XJ650 Midnight Maxim models, and XJ1100 models. Each:
$ 1.75


NOTE: the following XJ650 Maxim tank emblems (HCP140LH and HCP140RH) may be successfully used on all XJ550 Maxim and Seca gas tanks in place of the non-available original emblems for those models. The mounting screw hole locations are exactly the same, and although the front-to-back and top-to-bottom emblem curvature is slightly different between all of the models, it is not enough to be noticeable once in installed.

XJ550 owners can also apply some double-side tape to the back of the emblems (in addition to using the screw mounts) to get a factory original fit. Alternatively, a slow, gentle application of heat to the XJ650 emblems will make the emblems "bendable" and they can be gently tweaked to a more proper fit on XJ550 model tanks.


HCP140LH OEM left side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished gold raised lettering. For all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models. Uses two small screws to mount each emblem.
$ 99.95

HCP140RH OEM right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished gold raised lettering. For all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models. Uses two small screws to mount each emblem.
$ 99.95


HCP142 OEM fuel tank emblem MOUNTING SCREW, uses 2 per emblem, for all XJ550 models, and all XJ650 Maxim and XJ650 Midnight Maxim models, and XJ1100 models. Each:
$ 1.75



HCP22532 OEM FUEL TANK DECAL "YAMAHA", for XJ600 Seca II models, solid bright metallic silver color is correct for.1992-93 red bikes, 1992 black bikes, and 1993 dark blue bikes. Use 1 per side..
$ 17.95

HCP22534 OEM FUEL TANK DECAL "YAMAHA", for XJ600 Seca II models, color is correct for 1994-5 red/yellow painted bikes, and 1998 red and black bikes. Use 1 per side.. Each:
$ 14.95

HCP22533 OEM FUEL TANK DECAL "YAMAHA", for XJ600 Seca II models, solid dark metallic silver color is correct for 1994 blue bikes, 1995 black bikes, and 1997 red and dark blue bikes. Use 1 per side.. Each:
$ 5.95

HCP22536 OEM FUEL TANK DECAL "YAMAHA", for XJ600 Seca II models, solid metallic gold color is correct for 1996 red bikes. Use 1 per side. Each:
$ 18.95

NOTE: all of the above XJ600 Seca II tank decals are the same physical size and shape, and can be interchanged between years if a difference color preference from stock is desired.




HCP2408 OEM left or right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished chrome raised lettering. For all XJ650RJ Seca models. Installs with supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem to the tank.
$ 72.95



HCP2414 OEM right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", round orange plastic emblem with silvered lettering. Although this emblem is for the right side of the tank, it will also fit the left side also, although you may not be able to get it to lie perfectly flush with the tank surface. For all 1985 XJ700 models. Stick-on designs installs with supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem to the tank.
$ 52.95



HCP8216 OEM left side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", long oval plastic emblem with a polished gold lettering and outer rim and a black lettering background. This emblem is a close (but not perfect) match for the unavailable original emblem, and has the same overall appearance and style, but it is about 10% smaller in overall size than the original. For all 1986 XJ700 models. Uses adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ 34.95

HCP8217 OEM right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", long oval plastic emblem with a polished gold lettering and outer rim and a black lettering background. This emblem is a close (but not perfect) match for the unavailable original emblem, and has the same overall appearance and style, but it is about 10% smaller in overall size than the original. For all 1986 XJ700 models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ 34.95



HCP8218 OEM left side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", long oval plastic emblem with a brushed silver lettering and outer rim and a black lettering background. This emblem is a close (but not perfect) match for the unavailable original emblem, and has the same overall appearance and style, but it is about 10% smaller in overall size than the original. For all 1986 XJ700 models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ 34.95

HCP8219 OEM right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", long oval plastic emblem with a brushed silver lettering and outer rim and a black lettering background. This emblem is a close (but not perfect) match for the unavailable original emblem, and has the same overall appearance and style, but it is about 10% smaller in overall size than the original. For all 1986 XJ700 models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ 34.95



HCP145 OEM left side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished gold raised lettering. For all XJ750 and XJ900RK and N models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ discontinued

HCP144 OEM right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished gold raised lettering. For all XJ750 and XJ900RK and N models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ discontinued



NOTE: the following XJ1100 Maxim tank emblems (HCP15706) are slightly smaller (both in width and height) as compared to the original tank emblems (by about 1/8" in both dimensions), but have the same finish and appearance as the originals. Be aware that you may end up with a slightly paint color "mis-match" in the area where the original emblem covered the painted tank versus where these emblem leave those small areas exposed. Although the mounting screw hole locations are slightly different on these replacement emblems, we have modified and test-fitted them to an original tank so that they will fit properly. Both the front-to-back and top-to-bottom emblem curvature is slightly different between all of the models, it is not enough to be noticeable once in installed.

HCP15706 Aftermarket left or right side FUEL TANK EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished raised gold lettering. For all XJ1100 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models. Installs with original screws (2), which are not included. Each:
$ 39.95

HCP142 OEM fuel tank emblem MOUNTING SCREW, uses 2 per emblem, for all XJ550 models, and all XJ650 Maxim and XJ650 Midnight Maxim models, and XJ1100 models. Each:
$ 1.75



Engine Cover Emblems:

The crankshaft end cover YICS EMBLEMS feature a self-adhesive backing and have the red raised, stylized "YICS" wording against a flat-black background as original.

HCP19165 Aftermarket left or right side OIL PUMP COVER EMBLEM "YICS", embossed black rectangular emblem with raised red lettering. For all YICS motors (XJ550, 1982-up XJ650 Maxim and Turbo, XJ750 air-cooled, 1983 XJ900, and XJ1100 models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem. NOTE: you must remove all traces of prior adhesive from the cover before installing new emblems. If you want to install the new emblem on top of the original emblem (this will make the new emblem "stand proud" of the recess, and gives a unique look to the emblem), then we recommend the use of our HCP3120 adhesive material during installation. Each:
$ 22.95

HCP19165SET2 Aftermarket left or right side OIL PUMP COVER EMBLEMS "YICS", embossed black rectangular emblem with raised red lettering. Set of 2:
$ 39.95


HCP3120 Aftermarket black GASKET MAKER, 3.8 ounce squeeze tube pure silicone RTV material is good up to 500-F. Enough to do about five hundred emblems! But it's the smallest size offered. I'm sure it works well in other applications. Each:
$ 7.95



Side Panel Emblems:

ed5) OEM and reproduction SIDE PANEL EMBLEMS fit on the side cover panels or fairing panels spell out the model name. Most emblems used adhesive tape to mount.

HCP2447 OEM right side SIDE PANEL EMBLEM "Seca 550", black plastic emblem with polished gold raised lettering. Although this emblem is for the right side cover, it will also fit the left side also, although you will not be able to get it to lie perfectly flush with the surface. For all XJ550 Seca models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ 47.95


HCP2408 OEM left or right side FRONT SIDE FAIRING EMBLEM "YAMAHA", black plastic emblem with polished chrome raised lettering. For all XJ650 Turbo models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem.
$ 72.95



HCP2462 OEM side cover emblem mounting stud FLAT WASHER, use 2 per emblem on all XJ550 Maxim, 2 per each emblem on 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim (2 each on the "Maxim" and on the "650" emblems), 3 each on 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim emblems, and 2 per emblem for the rear fender "X" emblem on XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 0.95

HCP2463 OEM side cover emblem mounting stud SPRING NUT, use 2 per emblem on all XJ550 Maxim, 2 per each emblem on 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim (2 each on the "Maxim" and on the "650" emblems), 3 each on 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim emblems, and 1 per emblem for the rear fender "X" emblem on XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 1.25

HCP20676 Aftermarket side cover emblem mounting stud SPRING NUT, use 2 per emblem on all XJ550 Maxim, 2 per each emblem on 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim (2 each on the "Maxim" and on the "650" emblems), 3 each on 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim emblems, and 1 per emblem for the rear fender "X" emblem on XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 0.75



HCP20677 Aftermarket side cover plastic center insert mounting stud SPRING NUT, use 3 per insert on all XJ750 Maxim, XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 side cover. Each:
$ 0.95




Rear Tail Panel - Cowling Emblems:

ed7) OEM and reproduction REAR TAIL PANEL OR COWLING DECALS fit on the rear fairing panels and spell out "YAMAHA". Decals are either adhesive or water-mount.

HCP2126 OEM rear seat - taillight cowling DECAL, use 1 per bike, for all XJ550 Seca models, says "YAMAHA". NOTE: the size of the letters is slightly different than original. Each:
$ 9.95

HCP2459 OEM rear seat - taillight cowling DECAL, use 1 per bike, for all XJ650 Seca models, says "YAMAHA", each:
$ 10.95




Electrical System Decals:

These small identification DECALS help to restore that "brand-new" look to refinished original parts.

Key Switch:

HCP7281 Aftermarket ignition switch KEY POSITION ID DECAL, round hollow "ring" decal fits on the ignition switch bezel ring and identifies each key position: OFF, ON, LOCK, P (with is for "Park"), and IGNITION wording. Black decal with silvered lettering. Fits all XJ series ignition switches. This is a high-quality reproduction of the original.
$ 11.95



Handlebar Control Switch Decals for all XJ550 and XJ650 models (except XJ650 Turbo):

HCP7289 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch OFF RUN OFF decal, featuring a red square on a black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 7.95

HCP7291 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch ENGINE STOP rectangular decal, black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models. NOTE: some models used a decal that was slightly (about 1mm) narrower than this version that we supply. You will have to trim this decal slightly to insure proper fit on those models.
$ 5.95

HCP7287 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch START rectangular decal, black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 5.95

HCP15392 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch DECALS SET complete set of the 3 decals used on the right handlebar switch. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 16.95



HCP7282 Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch LIGHTS DECAL rectangular decal, black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 5.95

HCP7283H Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch HI DECAL square decal (for headlight switch high-beam position), black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 5.95

HCP7283L Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch LO DECAL square decal (for headlight switch low-beam position), black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 5.95

HCP7284 Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch TURN DECAL rectangular decal, black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 5.95

HCP7285 Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch HORN DECAL square decal, black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 5.95

HCP7286 Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch <____ CHOKE DECAL rectangular decal, black background with silver lettering. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 5.95

HCP15391 Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch DECALS SET is a complete set of the 6 decals used on the left handlebar switch. Use on all XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo) models.
$ 21.95



Handlebar Control Switch Decals for XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, all XJ750 models, XJ900, and XJ1100 models:

NOTE: the lettering on these control switches were originally pad-printed onto the painted metal (or plastic) control switch housing surface, and thus the lettering was basically "flush" with the black-painted housing. All of the "wording" decals contained in the following sets are actual thin-film decals, and as such will stand up off the painted surface ever-so-slightly. To an expert this may be noticed, but 99.9% of people will never notice the difference, and it will certainly look much better than faded of erased original lettering!

After 24 hours from the application of the decals, you may apply clear-coat to the switch housing to both protect and slightly "flush-up" the decals with the painted housing surface, all but eliminating the raised surface of the decals.

HCP20493SET Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch DECALS SET is a complete set of all the decals used on the left handlebar switch. For use on all XJ650 Turbo, 1982-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.....includes 1 each of the white LIGHT, HI, LO, <CHOKE, and <L TURN R> self-adhesive decals.
$ discontinued

HCP20515SET Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch DECALS SET is a complete set of all the decals used on the left handlebar switch. For use on all 1981-83 XJ750 Seca models.....includes 1 each of the white LIGHT, HI, LO, <CHOKE, and TURN self-adhesive decals.
$ discontinued

HCP20492SET Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch DECALS SET is a complete set of all the decals used on the left handlebar switch. For use on all XJ700 and XJ750-X models.....includes 1 each of the white LIGHT, HI, LO, <CHOKE, and <L TURN R> self-adhesive decals.
$ discontinued

HCP20545SET Aftermarket left side handlebar control switch DECALS SET is a complete set of all the decals used on the left handlebar switch. For use on all FJ600 and XJ900 models.....includes 1 each of the white LIGHT, HI, LO, <CHOKE, and <L TURN R> self-adhesive decals.
$ discontinued



HCP20490SET Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch DECALS SET used on the right handlebar switch on all XJ650 Turbo, 1982-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.....includes 1 each of the white ENGINE STOP, OFF, and RUN self-adhesive decals. NOTE: this set does not include the HCP14984 white and red reflective, rectangular decal that is located on the bottom face of the stop/run rocker switch, and that decal should be ordered separate. NOTE: this set contains two different versions of the decals for the secondary light control switch, one version is correct for 1982 XJ750 Maxim models (AUX. LAMP, ON, OFF decals), and the other version is correct for XJ1100 models (HAZARD, ON, OFF).
$ discontinued

HCP14984 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch WHITE/RED REFLECTIVE DECAL. Used on all XJ650 Turbo, XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models. NOTE: this white and red reflective, rectangular decal fits on the lower face of the stop/run rocker switch, and is only visible when the rocker switch is pressed down into the OFF position (i.e. this decal is visible only when the bottom/run part of the rocker switch is lifted).
$ 6.95



HCP20543SET Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch DECALS SET used on the right handlebar switch on all 1981 XJ750 Seca models.....includes 1 each of the white ENGINE STOP, OFF, RUN, /\ ON, \/ OFF, and the FOG LAMP self-adhesive decals. NOTE: this set does not include the L-shaped HCP8098 brake cable warning decal, and that decal should be ordered separate if needed.
$ discontinued

HCP20489SET Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch DECALS SET used on the right handlebar switch on all 1982-83 XJ750 Seca models.....includes 1 each of the white ENGINE STOP, OFF, RUN, /\ ON, \/ OFF, and the AUX. LAMP self-adhesive decals. NOTE: this set does not include the L-shaped HCP8098 brake cable warning decal, and that decal should be ordered separate if needed.
$ discontinued

HCP8098 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch BRAKE CABLE WARNING DECAL, L-shaped, black decal with white lettering. Use on all XJ750 Euro and XJ750 Seca models. NOTE: this decal fits on the upper section of the switch, and specifies brake cable free play specs.
$ 9.95



HCP14469SET Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch DECALS SET used on the right handlebar switch on all FJ600, XJ700, XJ750-X, and XJ900 models.....includes 1 each of the white ENGINE STOP, OFF, and RUN self-adhesive decals. NOTE: this set does not include the HCP14983 rectangular "OFF" decal that is located on the bottom face of the stop/run rocker switch, and that decal should be ordered separate if needed.
$ discontinued

HCP14983 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch "OFF" DECAL, white reflective wording on a black background. Used on all FJ600, XJ700, XJ750-X, and XJ900 models. NOTE: this black rectangular decal fits on the lower face of the stop/run rocker switch, and is only visible when the rocker switch is pressed down into the OFF position (i.e. this decal is visible only when the bottom/run part of the rocker switch is lifted).
$ 5.95



Additionally, you will also want (or need) to "re-white" the recessed, embossed lettering that occurs on many control switch function buttons....such as the "START" and "HORN" button lettering on most of the XJ700, XJ750, XJ900, and XJ1100 model (XJ750 Seca models also used this same type of recessed lettering on the turn signal switch knob). This can be best accomplished with our white LACQUER PAINT STICK, which is soft enough to be pressed into the lettering cavities and then the excess is wiped away, leaving a fresh, bright, white lettering image.

HCP20579 Aftermarket recessed letter WHITE PAINT STICK, perfect size and consistency for use with embossed lettering pushbuttons and function switch knobs. Use on all of the following models; one stick is enough to do a whole bunch of switches.
$ 5.95

XJ550/XJ650 all x. Turbo:
LH: turn signal switch knob

XJ650 Turbo:
LH: OFF (arrow) on turn signal, HORN
RH: START

FJ600:
LH: OFF (arrow) on turn signal, HORN
RH: START

XJ700 all and XJ750-X:
LH: OFF (arrow) on turn signal, HORN
RH: START button

XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim:
LH: OFF (arrow) on turn signal, HORN
RH: START

XJ750 Seca 1981-83:
LH: OFF/L/R (arrows) on turn signal, HORN
RH: START

XJ900:
LH: OFF (arrow) on turn signal, HORN
RH: START

XJ1100:
LH: OFF (arrow) on turn signal knob, HORN
RH: START


Finally, you'll want to re-color the faded plastic function buttons (start, horn, on-off rotary or rocker switches, turn signal and headlight position knobs, etc.). The best way to accomplish this is to use an industrial-grade permanent ink marker pen, as these plastic knobs don't like standard paint products. Note that some buttons, such as START or HORN on some models, will require the use of the HCPxxxx white lacquer paint (to re-white the recessed lettering) and then a careful and steady hand application of the permanent-ink marker to re-color the button itself. Do NOT re-color the plastic button first; the lacquer paint stick will "pick-up" this ink as it is being applied, and your white letters will then end up with a black, grey, or red tint to them! (and then you will curse and have to start the entire process over.......).

HCP20575 Aftermarket plastic switch BLACK PERMANENT INK marker, for re-coloring black plastic buttons and function switch knobs. Use on all models which have black plastic pushbuttons, knobs, or function switches. The ultra-fine tip on this marker allows you to easily get around the embossed letter that you've already "re-whited" using the HCP20579 lacquer paint stick, while the wider fine-point tip allows you to re-color the broader areas more quickly and evenly.
$ 4.50

HCP20577 Aftermarket plastic switch RED PERMANENT INK marker, for re-coloring red plastic buttons and function switch knobs. Use on all models which have red plastic pushbuttons, knobs, or function switches. The ultra-fine tip on this marker allows you to easily get around the embossed letter that you've already "re-whited" using the HCP20579 lacquer paint stick, while the wider fine-point tip allows you to re-color broader areas more quickly and evenly.
$ 4.50

HCP20573 Aftermarket plastic switch GREY PAINT MARKER, for re-coloring grey plastic buttons and function switch knobs. Use on all models which have grey plastic pushbuttons, knobs, or function switches. The medium tip on this marker allows you to apply color to the smaller surface areas of pushbuttons, while the larger broad tip allows you to re-color the broader areas of rocker switches more quickly and evenly.
$ 5.95



HCP20582 Aftermarket control switch RE-COLOR KIT contains all of the necessary markers to re-color the pushbuttons and switches on your control switches. Contains one each of the HCP20575 black permanent ink pen and HCP20579 white paint stick. Will do both the right and left switches on all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models, XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and XJ1100 models. NOTE: XJ550 and XJ650 (except Turbo models) may wish to order the HCP20583 kit below if they wish to re-color the OFF-RUN-OFF knob red pointer on the right control switch.
$ 9.95

HCP20583 Aftermarket control switch RE-COLOR KIT contains all of the necessary markers to re-color the pushbuttons and switches on your control switches. Contains one each of the HCP20575 black permanent ink pen, the HCP20577 red permanent ink pen, and the HCP20579 white paint stick. Will do both the right and left switches on all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models, and 1981-83 XJ750 Seca models.
$ 13.95

HCP20584 Aftermarket control switch RE-COLOR KIT contains all of the necessary markers to re-color the pushbuttons and switches on your control switches. Contains one each of the HCP20573 grey paint marker, HCP20575 black permanent ink pen, HCP20577 red permanent ink pen, and the HCP20579 white paint stick. Will do both the right and left switches on all FJ600 models, all XJ700 models, XJ750-X, and XJ900 models.
$ 18.95



To fully restore your control switch appearance, we offer the correct Low Gloss Black (LGB) paint in aerosol cans so you can re-finish the housings before the application of the new decals.

Control Switch Refinishing Paints:

To fully restore your control switch appearance, we offer the correct Low Gloss Black (LGB) paint in aerosol cans so you can re-finish the housings before the application of the new decals.

NOTE: unless otherwise specified, all of the following products can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.


HCP11196 Aftermarket light tan BULLETPROOF EPOXY 2-STAGE PRIMER - SEALER. Unique 2-stage aerosol design can allows at-home results that can normally only be achieved via application with an air gun. Once activated, via the release of an internal catalyst supply, this primer has a shelf life of only 4 days, so it's a use-it-or-lose-it type of affair! But, it provides a tough-as-nails primer coat on all metals, and can also be safely used on all plastics. Safe to use under any of our frame and body paints. NOTE: this primer is not rated for ultra high-heat applications on exhaust systems or brake rotors. 14-ounce spray can.
$ 24.95

HCP11424 Aftermarket light grey BULLETPROOF URETHANE 2-STAGE PRIMER. Unique 2-stage aerosol design can allows at-home results of what is normally sprayed through an air gun. Once activated, via the release of an internal catalyst supply, this primer has a shelf life of only 4 days, so it's a use-it-or-lose-it type of affair! It provides a tough-as-nails primer coat on all metals and plastics. The epoxy-based primer HCP11196 should be used under this urethane primer if you a spraying over old paint or old primer of any type; otherwise, there may be a compatibility issue that may cause paint crazing, peeling, or flaking. Safe to use under any of our frame and body paints. NOTE: this primer is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 14-ounce spray can.
$ 24.95

HCP7906SP Aftermarket urethane based X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 98 LGB low-gloss black finish as used on a variety of components (see list above for guidance). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or hardeners. Primer is required. This "low-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces, enough to do both control switches. Each can:
$ 34.95


HCP11291 Aftermarket standard-grade LOW-GLOSS FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT. Once fully cured this clear-coat is ideal for use on rear grab bars, steering crown brackets, fork tubes, or other items that are not subject to fuel or oil contact or high-heat conditions. Lacquer-based formula should not be used over any enamel paint. Although nowhere near as durable as our Bulletproof products below, this is a good quality, affordable clear coat for items that do not require a professionally-sprayed appearance. 16-ounce spray can.
$ 14.95

HCP8037 Aftermarket standard-grade HIGH-GLOSS FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT. Once fully cured this clear-coat is ideal for use on rear grab bars, steering crown brackets, fork tubes, or other items that are not subject to fuel or oil contact or high-heat conditions. Enamel-based formula can be safely used over most other paint coatings, including over lacquer paints. Although nowhere near as durable as our Bulletproof products below, this is a good quality, affordable clear coat for items that do not require a professionally-sprayed appearance. NOTE: this clear-coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 16-ounce spray can.
$ 17.95



HCP11032 Aftermarket BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, CLEAR-COAT WITH HARDENER. Unique 2-stage aerosol design can allows at-home use of what is normally required to be sprayed through an air gun. Once activated via the release of an internal hardener supply, this clear-coat has a shelf life of only 24 hours (1 day), so it's a use-it-or-lose-it type of affair! But, it provides a tough-as-nails urethane protection over all types of materials. Safe to use over any of our frame and body paints. 12-hours drying time to handle, and requires 30-60 days to fully cure. Once fully cured this clear-coat is fully chemical, oil, and fuel resistant, making it ideal for use on gas tanks. NOTE: this clear coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 12-ounce spray can.
$ 21.95

HCP11198 Aftermarket BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT WITH HARDENER. Same features and benefits as the HCP11032 clear-coat above, but in a much faster-drying formula that only requires 2-hours drying time to handle, and requiring just 18-24 days to fully cure. Once fully cured this clear-coat is chemical, oil, and fuel resistant, making it ideal for use on gas tanks. NOTE: this clear coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 12-ounce spray can.
$ 24.95



TCI (Igniter) Box:

HCP8107 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, blue foil decal with TID14-05, 4U8-10 wording. Used on all XJ550 model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8108 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, black foil decal with TID14-02, 4H7-10 wording. Used on all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8109 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, green foil decal with TID14-08, 5V2-10 wording. Used on all 1982 XJ650RJ Seca model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8111 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, black foil decal with TID14-13, 16G-10 wording. Used on all 1982-83 XJ650 Turbo model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8110 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, red foil decal with TID14-06, 5G2-10 wording. Used on all 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim and 1981-83 XJ750 models TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8112 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, red foil decal with TID14-44, 1FG-10 wording. Used on all 1985-86 XJ700 air-cooled model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8113 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, yellow foil decal with TID14-35, 1AA-10 wording. Used on all 1985-86 XJ700-X water-cooled model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8114 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, black foil decal with TID14-19, 31A-10 wording. Used on all 1983-84 XJ900RK and RL model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95

HCP8115 Aftermarket TCI case ID DECAL, black foil decal with TID14-10, 10M-10 wording. Used on all 1982-84 XJ1100 Maxim and Midnight Maxim model TCI (igniter) boxes. NOTE: the silver "date code" box is left blank/unstamped.
$ 9.95



Horn Support Bracket:

The small decals are attached to the short metal bracket that attaches the horn body to the frame. On bikes with dual horns, there is a separate decal for the low vs. high tone horns.

The small decals are attached to the short metal bracket that attaches the horn body to the frame. On bikes with dual horns, there is a separate decal for the low vs. high tone horns.

HCP8167 Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, blue foil decal with the bright silver 4G0-30 wording. Used on the 1981-83 XJ550 Seca model low-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP8168 Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, blue foil decal with the bright silver 4G0-20 wording. Used on the 1981-83 XJ550 Seca model high-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP8167-68 Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1981-83 XJ550 Seca models.
$ 16.95



HCP8153 Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 2H9-30 Low Tone wording. Used on the 1982 XJ650RJ Seca model low-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP8154 Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 2H9-20 High Tone wording. Used on the 1982 XJ650RJ Seca model high-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP8153-54 Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1982 XJ650RJ Seca models.
$ 16.95



HCP15026L Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 16G-30 Low Tone wording. Used on the 1982 XJ650 Turbo model low-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP15026H Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 16G-20 High Tone wording. Used on the 1982 XJ650 Turbo model high-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP15026H-L Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1982 XJ650 Turbo models.
$ 14.95



HCP15733L Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 11T-30 Low Tone wording. Used on the 1983 XJ650 Turbo model low-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP15733H Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 11T-20 High Tone wording. Used on the 1983 XJ650 Turbo model high-note horn.
$ 9.95

HCP15733H-L Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1983 XJ650 Turbo models.
$ 16.95



HCP8157 Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 1AA-30 Low Tone wording. Used on the 1985-86 XJ700-X and XJ750-X models.
$ 9.95

HCP8158 Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 1AA-20 High Tone wording. Used on the 1985-86 XJ700-X and XJ750-X models.
$ 9.95

HCP8157-58 Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1985-86 XJ700-X and XJ750-X models.
$ 16.95



HCP8165 Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 26H-30 Low Tone wording. Used on the 1985-86 XJ700 air-cooled models.
$ 9.95

HCP8166 Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 26H-20 High Tone wording. Used on the 1985-86 XJ700 air-cooled models.
$ 9.95

HCP8165-66 Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1985-86 XJ700 air-cooled models.
$ 16.95



HCP8159 Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 15R-30 Low Tone wording. Used on the 1982-83 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models.
$ 9.95

HCP8160 Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 15R-20 High Tone wording. Used on the 1982-83 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models.
$ 9.95

HCP8159-60 Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1982-83 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models.
$ 16.95



HCP8161 Aftermarket left horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 4L0-30 Low Tone wording. Used on FJ600 and 1983-86 XJ900 RK, RL, and FN models.
$ 9.95

HCP8162 Aftermarket right horn mounting bracket ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 4L0-20 High Tone wording. Used on the 1983-86 XJ900 RK, RL, and FN models.
$ 9.95

HCP8161-62 Aftermarket horn mounting bracket ID DECALS, set of both the high-note and low-note decals. Used on the 1983-86 XJ900 RK, RL, and FN models.
$ 16.95



Voltage Regulator:

HCP15163 Aftermarket voltage regulator case ID DECAL, red foil decal with the brushed silver 12R-A0 wording. Used on the 1981-86 XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models.
$ 9.95

HCP15164 Aftermarket voltage regulator case ID DECAL, red foil decal with the brushed silver 10M-A0 wording. Used on the 1982-84 XJ1100 models.
$ 9.95



Starter Motor:

HCP15132 Aftermarket starter motor case ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 4K0-81800-50 wording. This decal is used on all models that have black-painted starter motors. Used on the XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models.
$ 9.95

HCP15189 Aftermarket starter motor case ID DECAL, black foil decal with the brushed silver 4H7-81800-50 wording. This decal is used on all models that have silver-painted starter motors. Used on the XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models.
$ 9.95



Gauge Warning Lights:

HCP19235 Aftermarket gauge warning lights case ID DECALS, chrome-silver decals with black wording. These decals are used on all 1985-86 XJ700 and XJ750-X models. This is a complete set of all 5 decals used above the warning lights (2 x TURN, 1 each of the OIL, NEUTRAL, and HIGH BEAM decals).
$ 21.95



Battery Warning and Maintenance:

These decal are typically found attached inside the frame side cover panels (or, on some models, attached to the bottom of the seat pan) and illustrate proper battery vent hose installation and routing, battery sensor warnings, and battery removal information.

HCP15127 Aftermarket battery VENT TUBE WARNING, white decal with orange wording and illustration warns the user to remove the vent tube block-off before battery installation. This small paper decal is used on all models and it is typically located on the top of the battery case next to the vent hose opening.
$ 4.95

HCP8122 Aftermarket battery REMOVAL/INSTALLATION PROCEDURE DECAL, silver decal with black wording cautions the user on proper battery removal and installation. This foil decal is used on all XJ550 models and is typically located inside the left side frame cover.
$ 8.95

HCP8124 Aftermarket battery REMOVAL/INSTALLATION PROCEDURE DECAL, clear decal with white wording cautions the user on proper battery removal and installation. This vinyl decal is used on all XJ650 models, XJ700, and XJ750-X models, and is located inside the right side frame cover (all models except XJ650 Turbo) or on the seat pan (XJ650 Turbo).
$ 6.95

HCP8123 Aftermarket battery REMOVAL/INSTALLATION PROCEDURE DECAL, silver decal with black wording cautions the user on proper battery removal and installation. This foil decal is used on all 1981-84 XJ750 models, XJ900, and XJ1100 models, and is located inside the right side frame cover.
$ 8.95



HCP8119 Aftermarket battery SENSOR INSTALLATION DECAL, silver decal with black wording and graphics cautions the user on proper battery sensor position. This foil decal is used on all 1982-83 XJ650 Turbo models (on the seat pan), inside the right frame cover on 1981-83 XJ750 Seca models, and inside the left frame cover on XJ1100 models.
$ 11.95


HCP15457 Aftermarket battery SENSOR INSTALLATION/DRAIN HOSE ROUTING DECAL, large silver decal with black wording and graphics cautions the user on proper battery sensor position and battery drain hose routing. This foil decal is used on all 1982 XJ750 Maxim models inside the right frame cover.
$ 14.95


HCP8152 Aftermarket battery DRAIN HOSE ROUTING DECAL, silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper battery breather "pipe" (hose) routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ550 models inside the left frame cover.
$ 12.95

HCP8151 Aftermarket battery DRAIN HOSE ROUTING DECAL, large silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper battery breather "pipe" (hose) routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ650 (except Turbo) models and 1981-83 XJ750 Seca inside the right frame cover.
$ 9.95

HCP15134 Aftermarket battery DRAIN HOSE ROUTING DECAL, large silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper battery breather "pipe" (hose) routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ650 Turbo models on the seat pan.
$ 11.95

HCP15124 Aftermarket battery DRAIN HOSE ROUTING DECAL, silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper battery breather "pipe" (hose) routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ700 and XJ750-X models inside the right frame cover.
$ 10.95

HCP15126 Aftermarket battery DRAIN HOSE ROUTING DECAL, large silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper battery breather "pipe" (hose) routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ900 models inside the right frame cover.
$ 10.95

HCP15125 Aftermarket battery DRAIN HOSE ROUTING DECAL, silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper battery breather "pipe" (hose) routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ1100 models inside the right frame cover.
$ 11.95



Headlight Warning:

HCP8091 Aftermarket headlight bucket BULB WARNING DECAL, black rectangle decal with white wording. This foil decal is used on all XJ650RJ Seca models on the top rear side of the headlight housing (bucket).
$ 12.95

HCP15024 Aftermarket headlight bulb COVER SETTING DECAL, small white decal with maroon wording and diagram. This paper decal is used on all FJ600, XJ650RJ Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models on the back of the glass headlight reflector unit (near where the bulb is inserted into the headlight lense).
$ 5.95



Fuel System Decals:

HCP15122 Aftermarket fuel tank OVERFLOW HOSE ROUTING DECAL, silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper fuel line "pipe" (hose) routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ650 Turbo models and is located on the right side of the fuel tank, aligned with the fuel sender unit opening.
$ 12.95

HCP15140 Aftermarket carb FUEL HOSE LAYOUT DECAL, white decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper carb fuel line hose routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ650 Turbo models and is located on the rear of the seat pan.
$ 11.95

HCP8089 Aftermarket carb FUEL HOSE LAYOUT DECAL, silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper carb fuel line hose routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ1100 models and is located on the front of the seat pan.
$ 14.95


HCP8097 Aftermarket carb EMISSIONS HOSE LAYOUT DECAL, silver decal with black wording and graphics illustrate the proper vapor canister hose routing. This foil decal is used on all XJ700 California models and is located inside the right side cover.
$ 11.95

HCP16170 Aftermarket vapor recovery canister EMISSIONS PORT ID DECAL, clear decal with white wording TANK and CARB. This vinyl decal is used on all XJ700 California models and is located on the top of vapor canister.
$ 7.95

HCP16171 Aftermarket vapor recovery CANISTER ID DECAL, clear decal with white wording. This vinyl decal is used on all XJ700 California models and is located on the side of vapor canister.
$ 8.95



Brake System Decals:

HCP8098 Aftermarket right side handlebar control switch BRAKE CABLE WARNING DECAL, L-shaped, black decal with white lettering. Use on all XJ750 Euro and XJ750 Seca models. NOTE: this decal fits on the upper section of the switch, and specifies brake cable free play specs.
$ 9.95

HCP8099 Aftermarket right side steering headpipe tube BRAKE RESERVOIR FILL DECAL, clear decal with black lettering. Use on all XJ750 Euro and XJ750 Seca models. NOTE: this decal fits onto the riveted aluminum plate on the right side of the steering headpipe and specifies brake fluid reservoir filling instructions. The aluminum plate is not included.
$ 7.95



Cooling System Decals:

HCP15144 Aftermarket pressure cap WARNING HOT DECAL, round, black decal with silvered lettering. Use on all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models. NOTE: this decal duplicates the original 1985-86 cap decal, and will also fit properly over the Yamaha superseded rad cap, which has a different warning label decal than the original.
$ 9.95



Suspension Decals:

HCP8500 Aftermarket suspension ID DECAL, small black rectangular decal with silver lettering "KYB", used as follows:
1) mounts directly above the lower fork tube drain screw and faces the rear of the bike. Use 1 on the left side fork tube on XJ550 Maxim models, and 1 on the right side fork tube on XJ550 Seca models.
2) mounts directly below the lower vertical adjuster stop peg on the rear shock absorbers. Use 1 per shock on all XJ550 models and all XJ650 (except Turbo) models original rear shocks. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP15135 Aftermarket rear shock absorber tube ID DECAL, small chrome rectangular decal with black lettering "SHOWA", mounts directly below the lower vertical adjuster stop peg. Use 1 per shock on all 1982 XJ750 Maxim and 1981-83 XJ750 Seca models original rear shocks. Each:
$ 7.95


HCP8105 Aftermarket AIR SUSPENSION WARNING DECAL, small clear rectangular decal with black lettering and border, mounts directly above the right lower fork tube drain screw and faces the rear of the bike on XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim forks tubes, and is also used on XJ650 Turbo and XJ1100 rear air shock absorbers.
$ 9.95

HCP15137 Aftermarket AIR SUSPENSION WARNING DECAL, brushed silver rectangular decal with black lettering and border, mounts directly above the right lower fork tube drain screw and faces the rear of the bike on XJ1100 model forks tubes.
$ 10.95



HCP15139 Aftermarket rear shock absorber ADJUSTER DECAL, long, thin black decal with red "Adjustable Damper" lettering and white 1-2-3-4 adjustment numbers, used on XJ650 Turbo rear shock absorbers. Each:
$ 6.95


HCP8576 Aftermarket rear shock absorber ADJUSTER DECAL, black decal with red and silver adjuster position "arrows" and chrome lettering. Used on the bottom rubber damper ring on all XJ900 "DeCarbon" style rear shock absorbers. Use 1 per shock. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP8096 Aftermarket rear shock absorber WARNING DECAL, black decal with silver lettering. Used on all XJ900 "DeCarbon" style rear shock absorbers in the recessed area on the reservoir appendage unit. Use 1 per shock. Each:
$ 9.95



Swingarm Decals:

HCP8094 Aftermarket final drive HYPOID OIL DECAL, silver decal with black wording. This foil decal is used on all XJ650, XJ700, and XJ750 models and is located on the top of the swingarm tube just before it is bolted to the final drive housing.
$ 9.95

HCP8095 Aftermarket final drive HYPOID OIL DECAL, silver decal with black wording. This foil decal is used on all XJ900 models and is located on the top of the swingarm tube just before it is bolted to the final drive housing.
$ 11.95



Body and Frame Decals:

HCP15021 Aftermarket frame tube NOISE EMISSIONS CERTIFICATION DECAL, white decal with black wording provides model-specific information stating that the bike conforms to federal nose level standards. Used on all XJ700 water-cooled models on the left upper frame tube, just behind the steering headpipe tube.
$ 10.95

HCP15118 Aftermarket frame tube NOISE EMISSIONS CERTIFICATION DECAL, white decal with black wording provides model-specific information stating that the bike conforms to federal nose level standards. Used on all XJ700 air-cooled models on the left upper frame tube, just behind the steering headpipe tube.
$ 10.95

HCP15660 Aftermarket frame tube NOISE EMISSIONS CERTIFICATION DECAL, white decal with black wording provides model-specific information stating that the bike conforms to federal nose level standards. Used on all XJ900RK models on the right frame downtube, just below the steering headpipe tube.
$ 10.95



HCP15020 Aftermarket frame tube AIR CLEANER INLET WARNING DECAL, yellow decal with black English and Japanese text cautions that the air intake area should not be obstructed. Note that the word "AREA" on the decal is mis-spelled as "ARER" just like on the original. Used on all FJ600, XJ700, and XJ750-X models on the air box lid shield, and on 1981-83 XJ750 models on the left upper frame tube just above the TCI unit, facing straight upwards.
$ 8.95



HCP15168 Aftermarket fairing storage box LOAD WARNING DECAL, yellow decal with black text which specifies the maximum load capacity for the storage box. Used on all XJ650 Turbo models inside both the left and right storage box covers.
$ 7.95



HCP19587 Aftermarket front fender recess DECORATIVE DECAL, low-gloss black decal fits into the recessed area in the center/side of the front fender (where the fender bolts to the fork tube). Used on all XJ550 Maxim and XJ650 Maxim models. Fits the left side of the fender.
$ 9.95

HCP19588 Aftermarket front fender recess DECORATIVE DECAL, low-gloss black decal fits into the recessed area in the center/side of the front fender (where the fender bolts to the fork tube). Used on all XJ550 Maxim and XJ650 Maxim models. Fits the right side of the fender.
$ 9.95



HCP20281 Aftermarket fairing windscreen CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS DECAL, small clear rectangular decal with white lettering mounts directly onto the screen. Use all XJ900RK Seca models. Each:
$ 11.95


HCP20280 Aftermarket optional engine crash bar WARNING DECAL, silver rectangular decal with black lettering mounts directly onto the left crash guard tube and advise that guard is not to be used as footrest. Use all XJ700 and XJ750-X models. Each:
$ 11.95



Engine Cover Emblems:

HCP19165 Aftermarket left or right side OIL PUMP COVER EMBLEM "YICS", embossed black rectangular emblem with raised red lettering. For all YICS motors (XJ550, 1982-up XJ650 Maxim and Turbo, XJ750 air-cooled, 1983 XJ900, and XJ1100 models. Uses supplied adhesive tape to mount emblem. NOTE: you must remove all traces of prior adhesive from the cover before installing new emblems. If you want to install the new emblem on top of the original emblem (this will make the new emblem "stand proud" of the recess, and gives a unique look to the emblem), then we recommend the use of our HCP3120 adhesive material during installation. Each:
$ 22.95

HCP19165SET2 Aftermarket left or right side OIL PUMP COVER EMBLEMS "YICS", embossed black rectangular emblem with raised red lettering. Set of 2:
$ 39.95



Just For Fun Decals:

HCP18716 Aftermarket decorative oval XJ4EVER ENGINE DECAL features the stylized logo as appears on the upper top right corner of the page on the xjbikes.com website. Great for toolboxes, hard hats, helmets, or wherever you need a quick reminder of what your XJ engine looks like! Full-color, 2" x 3" oval sized. Each:
$ 1.95

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Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

STRIPE KITS:

ed8) OEM and reproduction STRIPE KITS perfectly replace the original faded, peeling, discolored, or missing originals. Die cut, thermally printed stripes accurately duplicate the original shape and colors. There's no better way to dress up an original bike than with these unique factory-look stripe sets! Stripe sets are normally water-mount, although some smaller decals that are included with some sets may be peel-and-stick, adhesive backed design.



HCP8331 Aftermarket COMPLETE STRIPE SET for all XJ550 Seca models, 1981. Red-white-black stripes were used on the white bikes and provide one of the most outstanding visual representations of these era bikes. Complete set includes the fairing stripe, fuel tank stripes, side panel "swooshes" stripes, and the rear tail light cowling stripe.
$ 139.95

HCP1083 Aftermarket COMPLETE STRIPE SET for all XJ550 Seca models, 1982. Silver-red-black stripes were used on the red bikes and provide an beautiful visual contrast. Complete set includes the fairing stripe, fuel tank stripes, side panel "swooshes" stripes, and the rear tail light cowling stripe.
$ discontinued


HCP2126 OEM rear seat - taillight cowling DECAL, use 1 per bike, for all XJ550 Seca models, says "YAMAHA". NOTE: the size of the letters is slightly different than original. Each:
$ 9.95



HCP1084 Aftermarket COMPLETE STRIPE SET, correct for all 1982 North American XJ650RJ Seca quartz silver bikes, all 1980 Euro XJ650 crystal silver bikes, and all 1981 Euro XJ650 candy blue bikes. Blue-white-black stripes provide a dramatic and appealing racy look to these models. Complete set includes the fuel tank stripes, side panel "swooshes" stripes, and the rear tail light cowling stripe.
$ 129.95

HCP1085 Aftermarket COMPLETE STRIPE SET, correct for all 1982 North American XJ650RJ and RJC Seca red bikes, and all 1980-81 Euro and U.K. XJ650 model red bikes. Red-silver-black stripes were used on all cardinal red bikes and provide a dramatic, appealing, and racy look to these models. Complete set includes the fuel tank stripes, side panel "swooshes" stripes, and the rear tail light cowling stripe.
$ 119.00

HCP2459 OEM rear seat - taillight cowling DECAL, use 1 per bike, for all XJ650RJ and RJC Seca models, says "YAMAHA", each:
$ 10.95




HCP8330 Aftermarket COMPLETE STRIPE SET for all XJ750RJ Seca models, 1982, Canadian versions. Red-white-black stripes were used all white bikes and highlight the beautiful lines of these bikes. In the USA, 1982 750 Seca models were never available in white, nor with any stripe package, but this set will obviously fit all 1981-83 models. Complete set includes the fuel tank stripes, side panel stripes, and the 3-piece rear tail light cowling stripes.
$ 99.00




HCP1091 Aftermarket COMPLETE STRIPE SET for all XJ900RK Seca models, 1983 USA versions. Charcoal-and-silver stripes as originally used on red bikes. Complete set includes the fairing stripes, fuel tank stripes (black decal only for the fuel tank, as the silver portion of the stripe was originally painted on), side cover stripes, and rear tail light cowling stripes.
$ 149.00

HCP2485 OEM front fairing DECAL, use 1 per bike, for all XJ900RK models that are painted red, says "YAMAHA", each:
$ 11.95

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Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

SECTION O:

EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, AND PAINT:

--Paint.



RESTORATION PAINT PRODUCTS:

INTRODUCTION:

If your bike is beginning to look a little long in the tooth, and appears "rode hard and put up wet", well, not to worry! There's absolutely no better way to make a classic bike look brand-new than to refinish the various component pieces, including polishing where needed and painting where necessary.


X-ACT MATCH PAINTS:

Guaranteed to shine on.


Now you can truly "Paint By Numbers" and get the results that you desire!

Our line of enamel, epoxy, or urethane base X-ACT MATCH paints are not only made from state-of-the-art materials in terms of the quality of paint basestock, but are also professionally color-matched to provide you straight-out-of-the-can, authentic Yamaha factory colors for your bike.


Our paints are matched to original NOS color chips & samples, old paint color formula books, and then finally eye-matched from sprayouts against new, original body panels. But original color formulas only take you so far, since there is quite a bit of variance between different paint suppliers; this is why having a professional, experienced paint mixer, who knows and understand the paint bases that he (or she) is mixing from, is the key to consistency and accuracy.

When you order from us, you will be getting the right color paints for your bike.


Do paints, primers, and clear coats really differ between one-another? Can't I just get as good a finish buying the paint out of Aisle D at Wally World?:

Well, no. And here's why:

What people generally think of as "paint" is actually a mixture of solvents, solids, binding additives, and a few dollops of other noxious chemicals in order to make the whole mixture of different chemicals work as a unit.

The "color" in the paint is due to special dyes and pigments that come from various sources. These pigments and dyes are part of the "solids" part of what is called "paint". These solids can be made of many different materials; most modern high-performance paints are basically made of different types of plastics (urethane, epoxy, acrylics, etc.).

The solvents are the nasty things that are used to dissolve the solids and turn them (and keep them) in a semi-liquid, sprayable form. The solvents evaporate out of the paint as the paint "dries". When you smell the aroma of "fresh paint", most of what you are smelling is the solvents evaporating out of the mixture; when the paint is "fully cured", that means that all of the solvents have completely evaporated, leaving behind nothing but the strongly-bound solids and pigments (when you sniff most fully cured paints, they are pretty much odorless).

The binders do just what their name suggests----they help the solids attach firmly and strongly to the underlying surface, or the underlying primer, and also have to be compatible with whatever is going to be put on "top" of them.....be it color paint or clear coat.

The other ingredients are additives to either speed up or slow down the chemical reactions that occur (these are called catalysts), or chemicals that strengthen the solid material (hardeners).


What makes one paint "better" or "different" than another?:

Well, one obvious answer is the type of an quality of the underlying "solids", as each material has its own characteristics. Epoxy, urethane, etc. each has its own strengths and weaknesses, do's-and-don'ts.

Along the same line would be the quality and amount of the dyes and pigments used.

Next would be the quality and type of solvents used. AND here is where another factor really comes into play, and why the "chain-store" paint is so inexpensive......solvents tend to be far less expensive than the solids and the pigment products. So if you buy a can of paint that is 90% solvent and 10% solids, well, naturally it is going to be less expensive than another brand of paint that is 80% solvent and 20% solids! And the higher-ratio, cheaper paint with the greater proportion of "solvents" to solids is going to go on very thin, it's going to "run" very easily, and the drying time and other variables are going to be greatly exaggerated according to environmental conditions (heat and humidity).

A gallon of high-quality automotive type paint (the solids and pigments) runs $350 a gallon or more. A gallon of high-quality solvent is about $80. You now understand why the paint-to-solvent ratio can vary so much between "quality" paints and not-so-quality paints...........

The above factor---the paint-to-solvent ratio----is one of the primary reasons why people find it hard to achieve a "quality" spray-can job with typical low-cost, store-bought products. They are using inferior products, and combined perhaps with incompatible products, many people get the feeling that "they're no good at painting" or that you "can't get a good paint job" with aerosol products. In reality, it's the use of lower-quality products, improper technique, and mis-matched product usage that causes 90% of the problems.


What makes one paint "incompatible" with another?:

Well, that's a really long discussion, and it helps if you have a Ph.D degree in chemistry. Remember, "paint" is a mixture of chemicals, and those different chemicals have properties that determine the types of chemical reactions and interactions between the different materials. You know how oil and water won't mix and stay mixed with each other? But alcohol and water not only mix very well together.....think of your favorite adult beverage, or how you add some type of alcohol to your gas tank if you've gotten water into it......they actually combine with one another. Chemical interactions, or not.........

And that's true with the chemicals in "paint products"-----primers, the color paints, and the clear coats. Some of them get along great with each other, and some of them are repulsed and revolted by each other to one degree or another. The solvents used in enamel paints will dissolve lacquer solids. Cheap solvents evaporate too quickly, and so the liquefied solids within the paint actually come out of the can and almost immediately begin to "dry" and become solid again, leaving you with a "dusty" surface finish. Enamel solids don't bind very well with certain types of primers. One type of paint solid has a good tolerance for heat, while others don't. And almost everyone gets along well with the epoxies.......


What else is important?:

Well, the design and type of the nozzle matters, too. As does the pressure within the can. Nozzles that clog easily, or concentrate the paint into one small area instead of a graceful "fan pattern", can lead to the dreaded "runs", and are hard to apply smoothly and evenly.

Notice that professional painters choose to spray paint thru a gun, mainly because it allows then to control all of the factors: what "paint" type, which solvents, catalysts, and hardeners (all of which will be compatible with each other, and with the paint color and type), what pressure, what spray pattern and fluid thickness, etc. It's that control, along with proper surface preparation, that makes those paint jobs look much better, and not any fundamental, underlying difference in the paint itself that is contained in an aerosol or a paint can. The best equipment in the world, and the best painter in the world, can't get a great finished result if they are using inferior, or incompatible products.

And neither will you.


So what does all of this mean?:

Well, first of all, be aware and informed. Understand that "paints" vary (greatly) in their underlying chemical component quality, and that some of those chemicals just don't work well, or at all, with others. Our recommendation is to not purchase on price-tag alone, unless the final outcome is un-important to you. Read and follow the instructions for usage (re-coat times, thickness of coating recommendations, drying and curing times, etc.) as well as the compatibility warnings (if any are included; many manufacturers merely state to use their primer, or their clear coat only, and never get around to telling you why or what the basic paint base-stocks are, which is the real issue). If you're going to play junior chemist, and "experiment" with different brands, then by all means do it on a "test" piece of material!

And then wait 3 months or so, because until all of that solvent has finally evaporated, you really can't be sure what chemical compatibility issues might arise......



How much paint will I need?:

SPRAY CANS:

Fender, front or rear: 1-2 spray cans. NOTE: painted fenders are normally painted both top and underside.


Gas tanks: 2-3 spray cans. NOTE: the belly (underside) of factory tanks are color-misted, and sometimes not fully colored.....we recommend that this underside area be AT LEAST fully primer-coated, and then colored as much as possible.


Side covers (pair): 1-2 cans. NOTE: backside of side covers are usually NOT painted with the outer skin color; however, they will be blackened and will likely show signs of the outer color paint 'mist".

Also note that some factory side panels may have on one or both sides a separate flat-black painted lower or "tail" area......such as the XJ650RJ Seca, XJ750 Seca, and the XJ900RK models. So those models normally have a 3-color format: backside blackened, the lower tails flat black, and colored main outer surface. Other models, such as XJ650 Maxim and XJ700 models, also have the right-side panel (which has a lower "tail") painted flat black UNLESS THE MAIN OUTER COLOR IS BLACK, in which case the tail is painted the same color as the rest of the side panel.

Finally, XJ750 Maxim, Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models have the painted center section housed within a metal frame. To do a truly professional job, you'll have to remove the plastic center from the frame. The plastic center is held on via spring bite-washers, and it can be very tricky to remove them without breaking the plastic cover "stud" off!


Rear tail light cowling: 1-2 spray cans. NOTE: the back- and under-side of tail cowling panels are usually not painted with the outer color; however, they will be blackened.


Front fairings: factory fairings such as the XJ550 Seca and XJ900RK models will require 2-4 spray cans. The backside of factory front fairings will be the same color as the outside. Some people prefer to have them blackened.

Aftermarket fairings require more or less than the 2-4 cans needed for factory fairings, depending on their size.


Body fairings: as used on the XJ650 Turbo models. A lot of spray cans are needed, and because of the size of these panels, it is really recommended that they be not be painted use spray cans, but rather using professional spray guns. Note that the inner surface of these large body panels are not painted, and are instead left in their natural molded plastic color (a very light off-white grayish appearance).


Frames, complete: 4-8 spray cans. If your frame is completely apart, we recommend spraying with a spray gun, and you'll need a pint. Better yet, just get it powder-coated, it will cost more than painting, but it will look better than new and last forever!

For frame touch-ups, the amount of paint required depends on the size of the area to be refinished.

Wheel rim, spokes, and hub: 1 spray can per wheel. On 700-X model rear wheels, which has one side completely painted, use 2 cans.

Engine cases: 1-3 spray cans.

Cylinder jugs, cylinder heads: 2-3 spray cans each.

Valvecover: 1 spray can.

Swingarm: 2-3 spray cans.

Engine side covers, rear final drive: 1-3 spray cans, depending on how many side covers are supposed to be painted (some models use a combination of black and natural finishes on an engine).

Brake rotors: 1 spray can will do both sides of two rotors.

Small control switches, metal brackets, foot peg support brackets, lower fork tubes, steering brackets, etc.: Usually 1 spray can will do for any of these individual items; more cans will be required depending on the total quantity of the items that you plan to do and their size.



PINT CAN:

A SINGLE PINT CAN of paint will normally do all the side covers, gas tanks, and cowlings and/or fenders on a typical bike. Bikes with front fairings and bodywork (XJ650 Turbo models) may require two pints. Remember that a pint of un-diluted paint get "reduced" (thinned) with reducer before spraying through a gun, meaning a "pint" of paint turns into a quart of fluid for spraying through a gun. A pint will also do an entire bike frame.

If for some reason you want to do your frame in the same color as your body panels, then you'll want to order two pints of paint.

NOTE: Although Yamaha frames are always painted black, the "black" color used on frames IS DIFFERENT from the black color used on body parts! The same is true for metal brackets, control switches, swingarms, engine cases, etc.....these are a different color black (usually, a much flatter, non-reflective or less-reflective shade of black) than is used on the body panels.


How long will my un-used paint last?:

If stored properly, according to manufacturer's directions (meaning, tightly sealed tightly if in pints or quarts) and in a not-too-hot, not-too-cold, goldilocks-like of environment, then expect a shelf life of 3-5 years.


How long will my painted parts last and retain that "just sprayed" look?:

That period of time depends on way too many conditions to calculate, primarily the weather and environment and exposure to road chemicals and the sun and the stars and the moon and sea salt and how much it is driven and in what conditions and how often you wash and wax and buff and what type of products you use to do so and.......

One thing we can say for sure is that if you properly prepare your parts and spray the paints exactly as they were intended to be sprayed, in a properly climate-controlled environment, and followed proper paint curing and coating procedures, and then store the bike in an oxygen-free, cool, completely dark hermetically-sealed place, then the color and finish will last, at the very least, A Good Long Time.......

Well, you get the picture! The urethane paint base stocks that we used are the absolute best available. The exact same formulations are used on national show-winning vehicles of all types. As always, though, your results may vary!


What materials will I need?:

Most paints require at least 3 different types of materials to produce a professional quality finish:

- a PRIMER Coat
- a COLOR Coat or, in some cases, multiple Coats, which are then typically referred to as a Base Coat and Mid Coat.
- a CLEAR Coat.

Many paint companies, for reasons unknown, refer to their products as "base coat/clear coat" giving non-experts the incorrect assumption that:

a) no primer is involved.

b) that the "color" and the "clear" are mixed together as one product, thus requiring only one application of material. Although this is a common mis-perception, you will never find the color and the clear coat products mixed together in one can in the vehicle re-painting world.

Here's the way it really works:

1) a PRIMER COAT, which seals the parts to be painted AND, perhaps more importantly, provides the proper chemical boding properties developed specifically for the color paint that is going to be used. THIS IS IMPORTANT, and perhaps the most-overlooked aspect of painting when done by non-professionals.

NOTE: Using a primer from paint manufacturer "A" with the color paint from paint manufacturer "B" and then using the clear-coat finish from paint supplier "C" can be a recipe for failure.


2) a COLOR COAT or COATS, which to the average person, is what they think of as "paint", but that's not the whole story!

The "Color Coat" imparts the primary paint color and may have some or all of the "Brilliance" or other materials mixed in with it (such as metal flakes, aggregates, etc). An example is Yamaha's Code #63 Brilliant Red, used on a variety of models including 1981-82 XJ750 Seca models.

Other colors, such as the popular "pearlescent" types (like the Yamaha Code Y9 "New Pearl White", used on the '81 XJ550 Seca) or "candy" colors, require two (or more!) "color coats" of different paints to achieve the finished look:

- a Base Color Coat, followed by at least one (or more) separate...

- a Middle Color Coat or Coats needed to produce the proper, desired completed look.

However, such "Brilliance" colors are very difficult be apply perfectly via a spray-bomb aerosol can, and should only be used as touch up or as a "last resort" method (if a show-quality "factory finish" look is what you are after.......if you're going to be satisfied with something less than that, then you should be able to get acceptable results even when applying these colors with spray cans). Different painting conditions (temperature, humidity), different number of base or mid color coats, and different amounts of clear coats can sometimes widely vary the final color-depth-texture-sheen-etc. appearance of these "Brilliance" colors.

It takes an additional level of talent and experience to properly achieve the correct "final" look of such two (or more) colors, and it is highly recommended that you either leave such re-finishing to a professional, or PRACTICE a few times on a similar, suitable material like what you will be painting, until you gain some skill and confidence.


In fact, this practice spraying, called "a sprayout" in the painting biz, should actually be a standard practice that you follow before painting ANY object, regardless of the number of color coat finishes that are required:

a) prepare the "sprayout" test-surface properly (sanding, cleaning, etc.). This test materials should be as similar as possible to the final object that you will be painting.
b) spray the primer coat, let dry, sand as needed.
c) spray the color (coats), let dry the proper amount of time.
d) clear coat, wet-sand as necessary, etc.


Remember, in the world of painting, in order to get as truly as close to a professional finish as possible, always follow these two rules:

a) A great paint finish is the result of a great surface prep, using quality, chemically-matched products, and the proper primer, color, and clear-coat application techniques.

AND TRUTH BE KNOWN, the proper paint-application techniques (except for very specialized finishes) are actually the easiest-to-learn skills.


b) PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. That's why you do the "sprayout" process first, before you paint your parts, to make sure that you know what to do, how to do it, and that you will be satisfied with the color and look of your efforts. In other words, you "experiment" on scrap items, rather than on your own bike!



3) the CLEAR COAT, which both seals the color paint, prevents attack by solvents, and is what gives you the "depth" of the paint color and the shine. Even more importantly, it provides the proper chemical curing properties developed specifically for the type of paint that is going to be used. THIS IS IMPORTANT, and perhaps the most-overlooked aspect of painting when done by non-professionals. MANY COLOR PAINTS WILL SIMPLY NEVER FULLY "CURE" WITHOUT THE ADDITION OF THE CLEAR COAT.

So, this issue always comes up:

Question: Can I get a good paint finish using spray paints?

Answer: It all depends on how good the underlying body work is, and for a "seller" or a "local show bike" you can do "okay" or maybe even "pretty darned good" if you've practiced first, done excellent surface preparation, followed the manufacturer's directions, used completely compatible products (primer, color paint(s), and clear coats), are skilled at the use of a spray can style of painting (there is a technique, you know!), and got real lucky the day that you choose to paint!

A great paint finish is really just the end result of great bodywork----the surface preparation is what determines the final result. Great "painters" usually do their own body work------and for great reasons.

The proper surface preparation of the item to be colored is the key to getting a "show-quality" paint finish. There are lots of details elsewhere on how to achieve such results, but just realize that ANY flaw in the underlying surface will show up clear as day, especially on dark, glossy or highly reflective finishes.



But how will you know whether your surface is "prepared properly"?

Well, this type of knowledge primarily comes from experience, meaning that you've done it "wrong" or "not well enough" so many times that you now know what it takes to do it properly!

But here's a clue: if you do all the bodywork, and primer and wet-sand the primer, and fill in the low spots and knock down the high spots, and primer and wet-sand and fill-in again and again and again-----until the primered body work is so smooth and so straight and so flawless that you feel it's almost a shame to have to go spray paint on top of such a beautiful primer finish-----well, that's about when you know that you've gotten it prepared correctly.


Paint Color Matching:

Yamaha almost certainly used a variety of different paint suppliers through the years, as spectroscopic analysis of the same color parts that were used on different models or years show slight differences in hue and tint, or depth of color. This is especially true on blacks, reds, and silver colors. Don't be alarmed if our paint doesn't "exactly" match your original color, as it is still an original color, it just may be that your bike was painted with product that was originally provided by a secondary source, or even just a different batch of paint produced by a single source.

I suppose it is safe to say that Yamaha, along with every other OEM manufacturer, had more pressing concerns than to make sure that the first bike off the line exactly matched, paint-wise, the last bike off the line, and this is just a fact-of-life in the color industry.


What type of paint was the bike originally painted with?:

This is an important question, and more than just out of historical curiosity.

Original paints of that era were either enamel or lacquer, and the technology of paints has advanced so much in the last 25 years as to render those materials obsolete except for producing the most concours-quality, museum-correct show vehicles.

Lacquer was the older product, and as technology progressed in the coatings industry, most vehicle manufacturers started changing over to enamel products sometime during the 1970-80's era. In the USA marketplace, it was not uncommon to have one (for example) General Motors Assembly Plant painting their production with lacquer paints, while another Assembly Plant, producing the same vehicles in the same colors, were using the newer enamel-based paints (on some GM products of this era, you have to look at the data plate on the cowl of the car, and under the "PAINT" header look for the letter "E" or "L" after the paint color code to distinguish between the two).

Once painted, lacquer and enamel finishes are next to impossible to tell apart from each other. HOWEVER, there is a huge difference in how the re-painting process occurs! Basically, almost no other type of paint product can be used over lacquer, besides lacquer. The solvents in almost all current paints and primer products will attack and dissolve original lacquer paints, leaving you with a horrible mess. About the only non-lacquer product that can be put directly over lacquer are epoxy-based primers.

Coating over an original enamel-based paint with other types of modern paints and primers usually presents no problem.

Of course, in all instances, it is assumed that any original clear-coat finish has been removed before re-painting is attempted. Do not attempt to paint over clear coats!


We always recommend removing original finishes completely before re-painting, either via chemical strippers or mechanical abrasion methods. However, if you do not want to do that, then you had better at least determine what kind of paint is on the surface you are going to cover, and you do so in the following manner:

a) sand through any clear coat until you get to the actual color paint. You will know when you are there because the sandpaper you are using will turn the color of the paint! As long as you are sanding the clear coat, the sandpaper may dull but will not change colors. NOTE: clear coats are very thin but can be very durable.

b) now that you have exposed the color paint, use some lacquer thinner (no, neither mineral spirits or "paint thinner" or any other product will not work, it has to be "lacquer thinner") to rub the paint vigorously. If the paint softens and comes off or "colors" the rag or cloth thoroughly, then that's lacquer paint (other paints, such as epoxy, enamels, urethanes, etc. are not attacked or dissolved by lacquer thinner).


Remember, nothing can go over lacquer except for more lacquer (or any epoxy primer-sealer), and we do not offer lacquer paints, and almost no one else does, either. It's an old paint technology and process. However, if your original paint is lacquer, you had better remove it, all of it, every last morsel of it, before you re-paint over it, or you better primer over it completely with an epoxy-based primer.....and hope for the best!



Painting Plastic and Vinyl Surfaces:

Plastic parts surface prep materials are highly recommended, as improper cleaning and surface prep will cause problems with adhesion and blotchiness ("white-ing") of the final finish. Once properly prepared, plastic parts are colored with the same paint as any other metal or fiberglass material. There is no special type of paint used on hard plastic parts (such as mirrors, airboxes, etc.).

Vinyl surfaces (seat covers) should first be cleaned with a vinyl prep product, and then require their own specific type of paint for proper adhesion and material penetration. Vinyl paints are really "dyes" and are designed to actually soak into the material.


Painting High-Heat Surfaces:

For engine cases, cylinder jugs and heads, valvecovers, engine case side covers, etc. you have two choices:

1) Use an epoxy primer. Once coated with this virtually indestructible primer, you can apply any "regular" paint over it, and it will not peel, blister, or flake.

2) Use a paint that is especially formulated to have a high heat tolerance. Such paints typically do not require a base primer. These paints normally come in three different "heat ranges" for various applications:

- 550-F degree paint, good for engine cases, cylinders, heads, etc.
- 900-F degree paint, good for cylinder heads, brake rotors and calipers.
- 1500-F plus degree paint, good for exhaust systems.

Note that on most models, your original engine cases, cylinder jugs, and cylinder heads are painted.....they are not "raw" aluminum. For engine cases, normally just the upper half is painted; the lower section (except on black engines) is left un-painted. The engine side covers----again, except for the models that had black covers----are not painted, but had a machine-polished and then clear-coated finish.


Chemical Resistance:

Almost all paints are NOT resistant to chemicals and solvents. The chemical resistance comes from the clear coat. This is especially important for gas tanks, of course, as fuel spills and fuel vapor migration are a fact of fuel tank life. Our clear coats are fuel resistant when properly applied. Not all clear coats are!

Typical polyglycol-based brake fluid (DOT3, DOT4, and DOT 5.1 standards) will stain, dis-color, and remove paint and clear coat of any kind, including ours. (silicone-based brake fluid, DOT5 standard, will not attack paint, but no one except racers use it). Our best advice is to be careful when working around these items if you have re-painted them, and wipe up and brake fluid spills quickly and then flush the area with soap and warm water.


Safety and Hazards Precautions:

Most of the paint stripping, pre-prep, paint, and clear-coat sealer products that we sell, whether in an aerosol or in a liquid form designed to be applied via an aerosol method, are serious, noxious chemical problems, and can easily cause temporary or permanent health problems if not used properly, including the use of proper ventilation and respiratory protection and equipment and techniques. Dizziness, vomiting, tingling, or other ill effects are often an early warning sign of possible serious allergic or toxic effects of the chemicals used in these products, and you should follow the proper emergency guidelines and seek medical help immediately if such symptoms exist or persist.

Additionally, these products contain or may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and/or birth defects or other reproductive system harm. Wash hands after handling and take all other necessary or recommend precautions when using, handling, or working with this/these products.

Most aerosolized paint and paint-related products are flammable. Use proper and adequate caution when using these products.

Bottom Line: We want your bike to look good, and for you to be able to take pride in your efforts in achieving that goal yourself. However, if you ruin your health or injure yourself in the process, that's a real loser of a situation. Be prepared, and be careful! Paint products are probably the most hazardous items you will handle during the maintenance or restoration of your bike, and it is your responsibility to treat them (and yourself!) with the respect, caution, and care as required by such risks.


Paint Stripping---should you Scuff, or should you Strip?:

Although in an "ideal world", all parts to be painted would be taken down to the bare substrate, and chemically washed to liberate every possible impurity from the surface, and then immediately painted using an electro-deposit method, well.....this ain't the ideal world!

But, for most metal products to be refinished, you are going to be far ahead in the game of painting if you do remove all previous traces of paint, primers, etc. A smooth, bare, paint-free surface will allow for the maximum "bite" of any new primer or paints that are sprayed, as well as eliminating any surface bumps, clumps, or imperfections from old paint build-up, while also preventing any old-paint chemical interaction issues that may arise (literally!) from incompatible paint products.

NOTE: the removal of all old surface coatings, especially on objects of unknown surface conditions, may reveal old body work, filler ("bondo"), etc. that may then need to be re-applied (or such fillers may be physically attacked and either contaminated or removed by the stripper itself).

Although this certainly adds an additional, and for the inexperienced body-prep "artist", another somewhat difficult task to the overall refinishing process, it is the only really sure-fire way to properly prepare a surface for new paint. REMEMBER: a great "paint job" is really, truly, 90% the result of "great body work and surface prep".


Most molded plastic or resin-based parts......frame side covers, fairings, rear tail cowlings, etc.-----will normally not have any body filler within them (unless they have been repaired before)-----so, generally, it is usually a "simpler" process to strip those without the bodyman's "fear of the unknown".

But most metals, even brand new factory-stamped items, may possibly show or require some amount of body "filler" be used in order to create a perfect, flawless, and wave-free surface. Metal parts, produced by huge stamping presses, do not usually have the uniformity and smoothness that the high-pressure injection molding of plastic parts do (and which typically come out of their mold perfectly formed and smooth).


NOTE: although it is also preferable to completely remove all old paint from plastic-based body parts, too----frame side covers, fairings, tail light cowlings, etc.----the difficulty in doing so, properly, without specialized equipment may be beyond the abilities of most non-professionals. If you have access to a media-blaster, that is the preferable method of paint removal, as long as it is operated properly (meaning, the softest, gentlest media possible, like soda or glass beads, and operated at the lowest possible air pressure necessary to remove the paint. Coarse, abrasive media like sand along with high air pressures can easily super-heat, melt, dis-figure and ruin plastic surfaces!!

However, there are quite a few products on the market that can accomplish such results, but if you do not have access to such equipment, then we find it safer and easier to hand-sand and remove all old clear coat and paint, and then clean, primer with an epoxy primer to fully "seal off" the original paint which may be incompatible with the paint type that you'll be applying, and re-paint such items.

If you do choose to strip paint from plastic body panels, be sure to test the stripper product in a, small, inconspicuous place on the inside of the part you plan to strip.......so if there is a chemical incompatibility (meaning, it will attack and possibly melt your body panel!), then the damage will be minimized and not visible once the part is finally re-finished and installed.

So, those are your choices. If you choose to not strip, then you must INSURE that all old clear coats and contaminants are completely removed, and that any surface scratches or flaws introduced by the sanding process are also eliminated (usually achieved with "filler-primer" formulas, or via multiple primer-sanding-primer-sanding etc. routines), or the surface imperfections will stick out like a sore thumb once the paint and clear coating is applied.


Bottom Line: if you want it to look its best when you're finished with all your efforts, then remove any and all previous primers and paints from any surface before beginning your pre-paint cleaning, bodywork, primer and painting operations.


Shipping Paint Products:

NOTE: unless otherwise specified, all of the following paint and re-finishing products can only be shipped via ground transportation and cannot be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there is a 2-3 can per-package restriction, and thus multiple can orders above this amount will be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.

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Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

STRIPPERS:

No, not that kind!! :D

HCP11194 Aftermarket metal surfaces only GORILLA PAINT STRIPPER is an industrial-grade "aircraft" paint remover that strips even the toughest finishes, making easy work of even high-heat paints such as found on calipers and engine cases, cylinder heads, etc. Gel-like formula clings easily even to vertical surfaces. This heavy-duty solvent is not for use on and will attack and destroy any plastic, rubber, or resin based materials. Always use in an extremely well-ventilated area and with proper eye, skin, and respiratory protection; the chemicals and fumes are poisonous. Extra-large 17-ounce aerosol can. Coverage depends on the age, amount, and type of paint finishes being removed. Two cans should do a typical, factory-original painted gas tank, fender, etc. Product must be flushed completely off with warm water after paint removal. Each:
$ 14.95

HCP11063 Aftermarket metal surfaces only STANDARD PAINT STRIPPER allows for an easy spray-on, wait 15 minutes, and scrub-off process. This heavy-duty solvent is not for use on and will attack and destroy any plastic, rubber, or resin based materials. Always use in an extremely well-ventilated area and with proper eye, skin, and respiratory protection; the chemicals and fumes are poisonous. 11-ounce aerosol can. Coverage depends on the age, amount, and type of paint finishes being removed. Two cans should do a typical, factory-original painted gas tank, fender, etc. Product must be flushed completely off with warm water after paint removal. Each:
$ 12.95

HCP11232 Aftermarket plastic surfaces PREMIUM PAINT STRIPPER specially designed for plastics. This formula is safe for use on most plastic, rubber, or resin based materials, and will not swell the plastic. Always use in an extremely well-ventilated area and with proper eye, skin, and respiratory protection; the chemicals and fumes are poisonous. 17-ounce aerosol can. Coverage depends on the age, amount, and type of paint finishes being removed. One can should do a standard factory-original frame side cover, two cans for a rear tail light cowling, etc. Product must be flushed completely off with warm water after paint removal. Be sure to test this product in a, small, inconspicuous place on the inside of the part you plan to strip.......so if there is a chemical incompatibility (meaning, it will attack and possibly melt your body panel!), then the damage will be minimized and not visible once the part is finally re-finished and installed. Each:
$ 14.95



CLEANERS AND PRE-PAINT PRODUCTS:

The key to everything is cleanliness! New primer or paint will not properly adhere to waxes, grease, oily surfaces, etc., and your fanaticism in making sure that all such chemicals are removed before re-painting them will be rewarded with the lack of horrible problems of various kinds down the road: fish-eye, flaking, bleed-through, etc.


HCP10921 Aftermarket final paint-prep METAL PARTS PRE-PAINT DEEP CLEANER. Unlike standard solvents that you might be tempted to use as a final surface cleaner----such as mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, paint thinner, etc.----this product actually not only releases greases, waxes, and oils from the surface, but chemically combines with them and then evaporates off. Other solvents may dissolve such contaminants, but merely liquefy and "spread them around" on the surface, typically "removing" less than 50% of them! This is a professional-grade, body-shop product. Always use in an extremely well-ventilated area and with proper eye, skin, and respiratory protection; the chemicals and fumes are poisonous. 14-ounce aerosol can goes a long way.
$ 14.95

HCP10917 Aftermarket final prep PLASTIC PARTS PRE-PAINT CLEANER. Formulated specially for all types of plastics, it will not distort or swell the material nor migrate into the surface. Use immediately before the plastic bonding agent is applied. This is a professional-grade, body-shop product. Always use in an extremely well-ventilated area and with proper eye, skin, and respiratory protection; the chemicals and fumes are poisonous. 11-ounce aerosol can goes a long way.
$ 14.95



PAINTS:

Our line of HIGH-HEAT PAINTS, FRAME PAINTS, BODY PAINTS, and various TRIM DYE products are just what you need to make your XJ appear showroom-fresh. Of course, proper surface preparation is the key to make any painting finish look professional, but have the correct paint products makes all the difference in the world!

Most of our paints have been professionally color-matched to original new stock body panels and other parts to produce our exclusive line of X-ACT MATCH PAINT COLORS----using these products are the only way to return your bike to the original showroom appearance as is possible, yet these products are made from easier-to-use and more durable modern paint base-stocks, for the ultimate in durability and appearance. And besides being available in aerosol cans, we also offer these same formulas in pints for professional (spray-gun) application.



HIGH-HEAT PAINT PRODUCTS: Engine Cases, Covers, Final Drive, and Brakes:

How Hot is Hot?:

The following information was measured on a stock, un-modified XJ650 YICS engine, with the air temperature between 60- to 70-F. Modified engines, engine tune conditions, different air temperatures and humidity levels, etc. will affect these readings up or down.

Using our HCP9803 Digital Infrared Heat Thermometer, we verify that the cylinders and the valve cover are the hottest part of the engine, with the front of the cylinder jugs (exhaust port side) reaching almost 390-F during and immediately after spirited riding, while the intake side of the cylinders were consistently 50-degrees cooler (350-F). Cylinder heads, surprisingly, remain much cooler, just barely breaking the 280-F mark.

Engine upper case and engine side covers vary in their readings depending on which cover and where on the engine case the reading is taken, but in all cases are substantially cooler than the cylinder head, valvecover, or jugs.

Brake rotors were measured at 300-F or more after 10 consecutive maximum-force braking events from 50mph. Calipers were approximately 50-F cooler.

Rear final drive units are like refrigerators, and were never measured at over 140-F.



Cylinder Heads and Cylinder Jugs:

On the top end of the engine, most XJ engines feature the Code 162 Satin Silver Metallic flat metallic painted cylinder jugs and cylinder heads, with Code 98 LGB low-gloss black or Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black cylinder head valve covers, while all 1981 XJ550 models, and the 1981 and 1983 (but not the 1982 model!) XJ750 Seca models featured un-painted, machine-polished and clear-coated valvecovers.

Other models are equipped with Code 58 Intense Gloss Black painted cylinder heads, cylinder jugs, or both. On models with black-painted heads or jugs, the edges of the fins may or may not be painted black also; if not, they have a natural cast aluminum look to them.

Some later model (1983-later) model engines may have come with un-painted heads and jugs.

Once again, although not originally used, we strongly recommend a high-temp clear-coat be used over all painted surfaces for protection.


NOTE: we also offer both a Code 98 LGB low-gloss black and Code R4 Flat Black engine paint for those people who wish to "soften" the appearance, or to tone-down the high-gloss black with an under- or top-coat of one of the lower-gloss black finishes. Some people find the visual contrast between the high-gloss and lower-gloss black finishes between adjoining components (such as painting the head and the engine case gloss black, but with a satin-blacked finish on the cylinder jugs) to be more visually striking.


Typical Coverage: while one or two cans will do a valvecover, it will take two-to-three spray cans will do one set of cylinder jugs, or one cylinder head (not including the valve cover). Coverage may vary depending on the size and condition of the parts being painted, as well as application techniques.



Upper and Lower Main Engine Cases:

Most XJ engines feature unpainted, bare natural aluminum finish on the lower (bottom) engine case, and a satin silver metallic painted upper engine case----yes, your upper engine case was painted (we've seen a few exceptions to this situation on some original models, and don't know why, but we'll say that 99% of all original engines are painted). Although most painted engine parts were not originally clear-coated, but we will recommend that you do apply a thin coat of clear to help protect the paint against fuel, oil, and chemical spills.

Other models, such as the XJ650 and XJ750 Midnight Maxims, XJ650RJ Seca and XJ650 Turbo models, 1986 XJ700 air-cooled models, all XJ700-X models, 1983 XJ750 Seca, and the XJ900RK models have gloss-black painted upper and lower engine cases and engine side covers, again without any clear coat originally (but recommended for restoration purposes).

On all models, the engine oil pan ("sump") was always left un-painted, and we recommend that you do the same.


Typical Coverage: an upper engine case will require a minimum of 2-3 spray cans, while the addition of the lower engine case will require another 1-2 cans. Coverage may vary depending on the size and condition of the parts being painted, as well as application techniques.



Engine Side Covers:

Most models have highly machine-polished engine side covers (generator cover, shifter and clutch case covers, small round crankshaft end covers) which were then clear-coated from the factory.

For these models, you can use one of our metal-parts paint strippers to strip away the clear coat, progressively sand with 600-, 800-, 1200-, 1600-, and then 2000-grit finishing papers, and then machine-buff to restore their original mirror-like, almost-chromed appearance (yes, it requires as much effort as it sounds!). Of course, you will then want to clear-coat them again with one of our high-heat clear coat products.

Other models feature the Code 58 Intense Gloss Black painted side covers, which can be stripped and then repainted with the regular high-heat engine paint. Once again, although not originally clear-coated from the factory, we recommend the use of a thin coat of clear for protective purposes.

The XJ650 Turbo and all Midnight Maxim models feature a thin, gold-painted relief ring or Y A M A H A lettering on some of the side covers. We offer a small vial of "touch-up" paint in the original Code 8L Nebular Gold color to allow you to easily refinish those features.


Typical Coverage: the smaller engine side covers (crankshaft end covers and generator covers) can all be painted with one spray can; the larger covers (shifter and clutch covers) will require 1 spray can per cover. Coverage may vary depending on the size and condition of the parts being painted, as well as application techniques.


Shaft Drive Final-Drive Units:

Most models have use a non-metallic silver painted final drive unit, that is very close in color to the engine case color, but without the metallic features and just a little bit brighter.

For these models, you can use either our Code 162 Satin Silver Meta flat metallic engine case paint, or our Solid Grey Silver or Bright Metallic Silver finishes. Although none of these colors are 100% correct for the final drive housing, we have not been able to find a truly authentic color for the final drive housings. However, it is doubtful that anyone will ever notice the difference.

All Midnight Maxim and XJ650 Turbo models used the Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black finish on the final drive, and the Midnight Maxim models also feature a thin, gold-painted relief ring. We offer a small vial of "touch-up" paint in the original Code 8L Nebular Gold color to allow you to easily refinish that feature.


Chain Drive Rear Sprockets:

All XJ550 models have a painted rear chain sprocket, but there is a lack of clarity as to whether original sprockets featured a black or bright finish. Some original advertisements and factory brochures showed a silver rear sprocket on the 1981 XJ550 Seca models, and a black rear sprocket on the 1982-83 XJ550 Seca models, while other reference materials and original owners report ALL models coming from the factory with a silver sprocket (it should be noted that there is no seeming controversy regarding the XJ550 Maxim models; all years of these bikes had a silver sprocket).

The actual original sprocket color was a grey-blue-silver color, very flat, and we do not have this original color available. However, you can use either our Code 162 Satin Silver Meta flat metallic engine case paint, or our Solid Grey Silver or Bright Metallic Silver finishes. Although none of these colors are 100% correct for the sprockets, we have not been able to find a truly authentic color for these pieces. However, it is doubtful that anyone well ever notice the difference.

If you wish to paint the sprockets in black, then we recommend the use of our high-heat Code 98 LGB low-gloss black or the Code R4 Flat Black finishes.


Rear Drum Brake Backing Plate:

Most models have highly machine-polished rear brake drum covers which were clear-coated from the factory.

For these models, you can use one of our metal-parts paint strippers to strip away the clear coat, progressively sand with 600-, 800-, 1200-, 1600-, and then 2000-grit finishing papers, and then machine-buff to restore their original mirror-like, almost-chromed appearance (yes, it requires as much effort as it sounds!). Of course, you will then want to clear-coat them again with one of our high-heat clear coat products.

All Midnight Maxim and XJ650 Turbo models used a Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black finish on the rear drum brake backing plate, and the Midnight Maxim models also feature a thin, gold-painted relief ring. We offer a small vial of "touch-up" paint in the original Code 8L Nebular Gold color to allow you to easily refinish that feature.


Disc Brake Rotors and Calipers:

All models that have a black central hub to their brake rotor would use either the Code R4 Flat Black or the Code 98 LGB low-gloss black finish, while all Midnight Maxim models should apply the Code 8L Nebular Gold light metallic gold color. The brake calipers on all models (except on all XJ700 models and on the XJ750-X models) should always be painted one level "glossier" than the finish level used on the rotor; therefore, you should choose either the Code 98 LGB low-gloss black or the Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black (including the Midnight Maxim models). A high-heat clear coat is recommended for all of these items.

All XJ700 models and XJ750 Maxim-X brake calipers were finished in the same color as the engine cases, the Code 162 Satin Silver Metallic, and again, should be clear-coated for maximum protection and durability.


All of the following paint products can be applied directly over bare metal; however, that bare metal had better be zestfully clean of previous paint finishes or clear coats, free of all grease, wax, oil, dirt, or other contamination, or the paint will not stick or cure properly. A fine way to prepare the surfaces for painting is glass-bead, soda, or walnut-shell blasting, following by a thorough cleaning and wash-down with lacquer solvent or other such paint surface prep product.

If you wish to use a primer for any high-heat paints, you must use an epoxy-based primer, such as the HCP11060 or the HCP11196 2-part Bulletproof Primer.

As a reminder, primer is not required for any of our X-ACT MATCH engine paints.


What Color Is My Engine?:

Over the years, the graffiti artists have attacked original bikes with a whole palette of various re-color projects, and sometimes it's hard to tell the players without a scorecard.........

Here is how the various XJ-series engines were originally finished. This information is for the North American models; Euro and Oceania models may have been supplied with other variations.

XJ550 engines

Valvecover:
1981: clear-coated natural aluminum finish.
1982-83: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.

Cylinder Head:
1981: painted silver on all XJ550 models
1982-83 Maxim: painted silver.
1982 Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1983 Seca: painted silver (or bare aluminum).

Cylinder Jugs:
1981: painted silver on all XJ550 models
1982-83 Maxim: painted silver.
1982 Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1983 Seca: painted silver (or bare aluminum).

Upper Engine Case:
1981-83 all models: painted silver.

Lower Engine Case:
1981-83 all models: natural aluminum.


XJ650 engines

Valvecover:
All years and models: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.

Cylinder Head:
1980-81 Maxim: painted silver.
1981 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1982 RJ Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1982 Turbo: painted black.
1983 Turbo: painted black, with bright edge fins.
1982-83 Maxim: painted silver.

Cylinder Jugs:
1980-81 Maxim: painted silver.
1981 Midnight Maxim: painted black.
1982 RJ Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1982 Turbo: painted black.
1983 Turbo: painted black, with bright edge fins.
1982-83 Maxim: painted black, with bright fin edges.

Upper Engine Case:
1980-81 Maxim: painted silver.
1981 Midnight Maxim: painted black.
1982 RJ Seca: painted black.
1982 Turbo: painted black.
1982-83 Maxim: painted silver.

Lower Engine Case:
1980-81 Maxim: natural aluminum.
1981 Midnight Maxim: painted black.
1982 RJ Seca: painted black.
1982 Turbo: painted black.
1982-83 Maxim: natural aluminum.


XJ700 all models, and XJ750-X engines

Valvecover:
1985 air-cooled: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1986 air-cooled: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1985 water-cooled: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1986 water-cooled: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.

Cylinder Head:
1985 air-cooled: painted silver.
1986 air-cooled: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1985 water-cooled: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1986 water-cooled: painted black, with bright fin edges.

Cylinder Jugs:
1985 air-cooled: painted silver.
1986 air-cooled: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1985 water-cooled: painted black.
1986 water-cooled: painted black.

Upper Engine Case:
1985 air-cooled: painted silver.
1986 air-cooled: painted black.
1985 water-cooled: painted black.
1986 water-cooled: painted black.

Lower Engine Case:
1985 air-cooled: natural aluminum.
1986 air-cooled: painted black.
1985 water-cooled: painted black.
1986 water-cooled: painted black.


XJ750 air-cooled engines

Valvecover:
1982-83 Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1983 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1981 Seca: clear-coated natural aluminum finish.
1982 Seca: painted black.
1983 Seca: clear-coated natural aluminum finish.

Cylinder Head:
1982-83 Maxim: painted silver.
1983 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1981 Seca: painted silver.
1982 Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1983 Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.

Cylinder Jugs:
1982-83 Maxim: painted black with bright fin edges.
1983 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1981 Seca: painted silver.
1982 Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1983 Seca: painted black, with bright fin edges.

Upper Engine Case:
1982-83 Maxim: painted silver.
1983 Midnight Maxim: painted black.
1981 Seca: painted silver.
1982 Seca: painted silver.
1983 Seca: painted black.

Lower Engine Case:
1982-83 Maxim: natural aluminum.
1983 Midnight Maxim: painted black.
1981 Seca: natural aluminum.
1982 Seca: natural aluminum.
1983 Seca: painted black.


XJ900

Valvecover:
1983-92: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.

Cylinder Head:
1983-4: painted silver.
1985-later: varies by model, incomplete information.

Cylinder Jugs:
1983-4: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1985-later: varies by model, incomplete information.

Upper Engine Case:
1983-4: painted black.
1985-later: varies by model, incomplete information.

Lower Engine Case:
1983-4: painted black.
1985-later: varies by model, incomplete information.


XJ1100

Valvecover:
1982 Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1982 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1983 Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1984 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.

Cylinder Head:
1982 Maxim: painted silver.
1982 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with bright fin edges.
1983 Maxim: painted silver.
1984 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with bright fin edges.

Cylinder Jugs:
1982 Maxim: painted silver, or painted black with bright fin edges (seen both ways!).
1982 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.
1983 Maxim: painted silver, or painted black with bright fin edges (seen both ways!).
1984 Midnight Maxim: painted black, with polished natural aluminum fin edges and wording.

Upper Engine Case:
1982 Maxim: painted silver.
1982 Midnight Maxim: painted black.
1983 Maxim: painted silver.
1984 Midnight Maxim: painted black.

Lower Engine Case:
1982 Maxim: natural aluminum.
1982 Midnight Maxim: painted black.
1983 Maxim: natural aluminum.
1984 Midnight Maxim: painted black.

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Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

High-Heat Primers:

Should I sand between each application of primer?:

Yes. Your primer, especially the primer-fillers, have to be baby-butt smooth and result in the elimination of any minor surface imperfections, low spots, or high spots before you start applying the color paints.....the application of the color paints and then the clear coats should be a "spray it and let-it-dry" type of procedure. The color paints and clear coats are NOT the time to "fix" surface problems or flaws!. That is what the "surface preparation" (the "bodywork") and the primer stages of the painting process are all about!

Remember this: a "really great paint job" is really a great bodywork and pre-painting job.....


Should I sand after the final application of primer, before I start applying the color coat?:

You had better! And everything had better be absolutely perfect, because this is the last chance you have to "get it right" without having to do a lot of extra effort in the future, up to and including going stripping everything off if necessary and going back to bare metal!

If you've gotten any bits of dust, flying insects, or other objects embedded within the primer during this stage of the process, then you'll need to let the primer fully dry and then wet-sand with very fine (1600-grit or finer) finishing paper to remove the flaws, and then re-coat with more coats of primer and sand until things are perfect.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........


Special Notes on High-Heat Primers:

The HCP11060 high-heat primer is compatible and can be used with on the following paints:

HCP11421 high-heat gloss black paint.
HCP11422 high-heat flat black paint.
HCP11061 high-heat bright silver metallic paint.
HCP11062 high-heat sold grey silver paint.
HCP11411 high-heat fire-red metallic paint.
HCP11412 high-heat burnt orange metallic paint.
HCP11414 high-heat gold flake metallic paint.

This primer is not compatible with our X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.

The HCP11196 Bulletproof Epoxy Primer can be used with any of the above high-heat paints AND with the
X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.


HCP11060 Aftermarket grey standard HIGH-HEAT PRIMER is the right product to use for all applications except the exhaust system. Rated for up to 550-F temperatures, which is well below the temperatures of engine cases, cylinder jugs, and valve covers. The exhaust port side of a cylinder head could, under rare circumstances, exceed this temperature. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each:
$ 10.95

HCP11060SET2 Aftermarket exhaust system HIGH-HEAT PRIMER, grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 19.95

HCP11060SET4 Aftermarket exhaust system HIGH-HEAT PRIMER, grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 34.95



HCP11196 Aftermarket light tan BULLETPROOF EPOXY 2-STAGE PRIMER. Unique 2-stage aerosol design can allows at-home results that can normally only be achieved via application with an air gun. Once activated, via the release of an internal catalyst supply, this primer has a shelf life of only 4 days, so it's a use-it-or-lose-it type of affair! But, it provides a tough-as-nails primer coat on all metals, and can also be safely used on all plastics. Safe to use under any of our frame and body paints. NOTE: this primer is not rated for ultra high-heat applications on exhaust systems or brake rotors. 14-ounce spray can.
$ 24.95



High Heat Paints:

Should I sand between each application of high-heat color paint?:

No, it should not be necessary, and will simply cause you more work and effort than is needed. Of course, if you get huge amounts of dirt, or bugs, or other debris within the paint, then maybe you should let the paint fully dry, and then wet-sand the flaws out, before proceeding.


Should I sand after the final application of high-heat color paint, before I start applying the high-heat clear coat?:

You can, although if you have put down smooth, even coats, without any dust or debris embedded, you don't really have to, especially on cylinder heads and jugs that have a naturally rough finish to them anyway, The upper engine case, the valve cover, and any painted engine case side covers.......all of which should have a "mirror finish" to them.......may benefit from a final wet-sanding process before the clear coat is applied.

But, if you've gotten any bits of dust, flying insects, or other objects embedded within the primer during this stage of the process, then you'll need to let the color paint fully dry and then wet-sand with very fine (1600-grit or finer) finishing paper to remove the flaws, and then re-coat with one or more coats of paint until things are perfect.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........


Special Notes on High-Heat Paints:

The HCP11060 high-heat primer is compatible and can be used with on the following paints:

HCP11421 high-heat gloss black paint.
HCP11422 high-heat flat black paint.
HCP11061 high-heat bright silver metallic paint.
HCP11062 high-heat sold grey silver paint.
HCP11411 high-heat fire-red metallic paint.
HCP11412 high-heat burnt orange metallic paint.
HCP11414 high-heat gold flake metallic paint.

This primer is not compatible with our X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.

The HCP11196 Bulletproof Epoxy Primer can be used with any of the above high-heat paints AND with the
X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.



High-Heat Blacks:

We offer a variety of "shades" of black, ranging from the original Code 58 Intense Black to a variety of non-original high-gloss, semi-gloss, or flat black finishes. Although engines that feature a black finish on the heads, jugs, or engine cases are normally all finished in the same HCP8020 Intense Black, some people enjoy the effect of a contrasting color for the jugs and the heads.


HCP8020SP Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 58 Intense Black gloss black finish (has a hint of blue in it). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts (but you must allow 72 hours after final coat before handling, re-assembly, or heat). This "gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 24.95

HCP8020SPSET2 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 58 high-gloss Intense Black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 47.95

HCP8020SPSET4 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 58 high-gloss Intense Black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 89.95

HCP8020PC Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 58 high-gloss Intense Black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 89.95



HCP11237SP Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black finish as used on brake rotors and calipers (but not originally on engine or drivetrain components). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts (but you must allow 72 hours after final coat before handling, re-assembly, or heat). This semi-gloss black is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 24.95

HCP11237SPSET2 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 33 semi-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 47.95

HCP11237SPSET4 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 33 semi-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 89.95

HCP11237PC Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 33 semi-gloss black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 89.95



HCP11153SP Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 98 LGB low-gloss black finish as used on brake rotors and calipers (but not originally on engine or drivetrain components). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts (but you must allow 72 hours after final coat before handling, re-assembly, or heat). This low-gloss black is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 24.95

HCP11153SPSET2 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 98 LGB low-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 47.95

HCP11153SPSET4 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 98 LGB low-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 89.95

HCP11153PC Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 98 LGB low-gloss black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 89.95



HCP7931SP Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code R4 Flat Black no-gloss flat black finish as used on brake rotors and calipers (but not originally on engine or drivetrain components). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts (but you must allow 72 hours after final coat before handling, re-assembly, or heat). This "no-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 24.95

HCP7931SPSET2 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code R4 no-gloss flat black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 47.95

HCP7931SPSET4 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code R4 no-gloss flat black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 89.95

HCP7931PC Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code R4 no-gloss flat black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 89.95



HCP11421 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 200-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. This "black" is much glossier than the original Yamaha engine color. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 11.95

HCP11421SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, high-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 21.95

HCP11421SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, high-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 39.95


HCP10351 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Generous 16-ounce aerosol can (when applied properly) goes a long way. No primer needed, but should be applied over complete bare, completely cleaned, abraded metal surface (meaning, bead-blasted or otherwise slightly roughened to allow for best adhesion to occur). No heat-curing needed. Excellent resistance to oil, and good resistance to fuel. Each can:
$ 14.95

HCP10351SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Set of 2 cans:
$ 28.95

HCP10351SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 54.95



HCP11422 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a flat-black finish. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 200-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 11.95

HCP11422SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, flat-black. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 21.95

HCP11422SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, flat-black. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 39.95


HCP10352 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a low-gloss black finish. Generous 16-ounce aerosol can (when applied properly) goes a long way. No primer needed, but should be applied over complete bare, completely cleaned, abraded metal surface (meaning, bead-blasted or otherwise slightly roughened to allow for best adhesion to occur). No heat-curing needed. Excellent resistance to oil, and good resistance to fuel. Each can:
$ 14.95

HCP10352SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a low-gloss black finish. Set of 2 cans:
$ 28.95

HCP10352SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a low-gloss black finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 54.95



High-Heat Silvers:

We offer a variety of "shades" of silver, ranging from the original Code 162 Satin Flat Metallic to a variety of non-original bright metallic and non-metallic finishes. Although engines that feature the silver finish on the heads, jugs, or cases are normally all finished in the same HCP7930 Satin Silver Metallic, some people enjoy the effect of a contrasting color for the jugs and the heads, in either a flat or a metallic finish which keeps the "metallic" engine color theme going.

We've found that the Satin Silver Metallic color is also very close to the original color used on the final drive housings, as well as on the brake calipers on XJ700 and XJ750-X models.

Special Notes on High-Heat Paints:

The HCP11060 high-heat primer is compatible and can be used with on the following paints:

HCP11421 high-heat gloss black paint.
HCP11422 high-heat flat black paint.
HCP11061 high-heat bright silver metallic paint.
HCP11062 high-heat sold grey silver paint.
HCP11411 high-heat fire-red metallic paint.
HCP11412 high-heat burnt orange metallic paint.
HCP11414 high-heat gold flake metallic paint.

This primer is not compatible with our X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.

The HCP11196 Bulletproof Epoxy Primer can be used with any of the above high-heat paints AND with the
X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.


HCP7930SP Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 162 Satin Silver Metallic flat metallic finish. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts (but you must allow 72 hours after final coat before handling, re-assembly, or heat). This "silver" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 27.95

HCP7930SPSET2 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 162 Satin Silver Metallic. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 54.95

HCP7930SPSET4 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 162 Satin Silver Metallic. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 99.95

HCP7930PC Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 162 Satin Silver Metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 99.95



HCP11062 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a Solid Grey Silver finish that is close to the original, but has too much "silver" and does not have any metallic. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 200-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 11.95

HCP11062SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, silver-grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 21.95

HCP11062SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, silver-grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 39.95



HCP11061 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a Blinding Bright Silver Metallic finish that has too much "silver" and has a very heavy metallic content as compared to the original. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 200-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 11.95

HCP11061SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, bright silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 21.95

HCP11061SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, bright silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 39.95



High-Heat Gold:

HCP11311SP Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic high-gloss finish. This is the rich, golden metallic color used on the engine cover inserts and lettering, wheel rims, and other small trim pieces and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on all XJ650 Midnight Maxims, XJ750 Midnight Maxims, and XJ1100 Midnight Maxims models. The XJ650 Turbo models also used this color on the round engine case "YICS" covers in the recessed outer ring. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts (but you must allow 72 hours after final coat before handling, re-assembly, or heat). This "gold" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 44.95

HCP11311SPSET2 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP11311SPSET4 Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 149.95

HCP11311PC Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 149.95

HCP11311TU Aftermarket engine X-ACT MATCH HIGH-HEAT PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. In an small brush-top 1.75 ounce bottle, for easier application of this product on the engine side cover inserts and Y A M A H A lettering on the shifter cover. The rear final-drive housing and the rear brake drum backing plate also had a recessed ring that was painted gold.
$ 19.95



High-Heat Special Metallic Finishes:

These high-heat RICH METALLIC PAINTS allow you to customize the appearance of your engine cases, heads, jugs, and any other high-heat metal object (not recommended for exhaust systems). Highly metallic with vivid base colors, these ceramic-based paints can withstand continuous temps up to 650-F. Primer is not required but is recommended.

Special Notes on High-Heat Paints:

The HCP11060 high-heat primer is compatible and can be used with on the following paints:

HCP11421 high-heat gloss black paint.
HCP11422 high-heat flat black paint.
HCP11061 high-heat bright silver metallic paint.
HCP11062 high-heat sold grey silver paint.
HCP11411 high-heat fire-red metallic paint.
HCP11412 high-heat burnt copper metallic paint.

This primer is not compatible with our X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.

The HCP11196 Bulletproof Epoxy Primer can be used with any of the above high-heat paints AND with the
X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.


HCP11411 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT RICH METALLIC PAINT is a Bright Fire-Engine Red Metallic finish and has a very heavy metallic content. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 200-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 12.95

HCP11412 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT RICH METALLIC PAINT is a Burnt Copper Metallic finish and has a very heavy metallic content. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 200-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 12.95



High-Heat Anodized-Appearance Finishes:

Wow, if you want to add some tasteful bling to you engine components, then this might be the "hot" ticket! These specially formulated high heat (500-F) formulations will produce a finish that is very close to the bright translucent, pastel ANODIZED appearance as seen typically on fancy aluminum or brass hose fittings, etc. Can be used over any metal or plastic surface, although the final appearance looks best if sprayed over properly prepared bare metals. A special silver base coat "primer" is necessary when applying over any plastic surface, or over any metal surface that has not been stripped down to bare metal. Additionally, a plastic adhesion promoter is needed when applying over any plastic material.

NOTE: not recommended for cylinder heads, cylinder jugs, or exhaust systems, as these areas can get too hot for this type of finish and it will create an ugly, discolored mess when it overheats!


HCP11415 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT ANODIZED ADHESION PROMOTER is necessary when applying over any plastic surface or any previously painted (and scuffed) surface. Not necessary and not recommended over bare metal. Curing is not required. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Use this product before applying the HCP14119 silver base listed below. Each can:
$ 12.95

HCP11419 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT ANODIZED SILVER BASE is necessary when applying over previously-painted surfaces or over any plastic surface. Not necessary and not recommended over clean, bare metal surface. Curing is not required. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 12.95



HCP11416 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT ANODIZED COLOR FINISH is a Translucent Red Metallic finish. Can be applied directly over clean bare metal surfaces, or over the special silver base-coat primer. Curing not required. Clear-coat finish is highly recommended. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 14.95

HCP11417 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT ANODIZED COLOR FINISH is a Translucent Blue Metallic finish. Can be applied directly over clean bare metal surfaces, or over the special silver base-coat primer. Curing not required. Clear-coat finish is highly recommended. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 14.95

HCP11418 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT ANODIZED COLOR FINISH is a Translucent Purple Metallic finish. Can be applied directly over clean bare metal surfaces, or over the special silver base-coat primer. Curing not required. Clear-coat finish is highly recommended. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 14.95



Other High-Heat Finishes:

HCP10358 Aftermarket WRINKLE FINISH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a flat-black finish, tolerates up to 350-F. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 175-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Each can:
$ 14.95

HCP10358SET2 Aftermarket WRINKLE FINISH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a flat-black finish, tolerates up to 350-F. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 28.95

HCP10358SET4 Aftermarket WRINKLE FINISH HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a flat-black finish, tolerates up to 350-F. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 49.95



High-Heat Clear Coats:

Please note that although most original painted engine parts were not clear-coated, we recommend that you apply a thin coat of clear coat for chemical resistance. Silver finishes should use a low-gloss clear coat, while black finishes can use either the low-gloss or high-gloss clear coat products.

NOTE: these clear coats are compatible with all of our high-heat paints listed above, but are not to be used with the ultra high-heat exhaust system paint below. Clear coats are fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, but are NOT resistant to brake fluid!


Special Notes on High-Heat Clear Coats:

The HCP10356 and HCP11059 high-heat clear-coats are compatible and can be used with on the following paints:

HCP11421 high-heat gloss black paint.
HCP11422 high-heat flat black paint.
HCP11061 high-heat bright silver metallic paint.
HCP11062 high-heat sold grey silver paint.
HCP11411 high-heat fire-red metallic paint.
HCP11412 high-heat burnt copper metallic paint.

These clear coats are not compatible with our X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.

The HCP11032 and HCP11198 Bulletproof Clear-coats should not be used with any of the above high-heat paints OR with the X-ACT MATCH high-heat paints.



Should I sand between each application of high-heat clear coat?:

No, it should not be necessary, and will simply cause you more work and effort than is needed. Of course, if you get huge amounts of dirt, or bugs, or other debris within the paint, then maybe you should let the clear coat fully dry, and then wet-sand the flaws out, before proceeding. The color paints and clear coats are NOT the time to "fix" surface problems or flaws!. That is what the "surface preparation" (the "bodywork") and the primer stages of the painting process are all about!

Remember this: a "really great paint job" is really a great bodywork and pre-painting job.....


Should I sand after the final application of high-heat clear coat?:

You can, although if you have put down smooth, even coats, without any dust or debris embedded, you don't really have to, especially on cylinder heads and jugs that have a naturally rough finish to them anyway, The upper engine case, the valve cover, and any painted engine case side covers.......all of which should have a "mirror finish" to them.......may benefit from a final wet-sanding process before the clear coat is applied.

But, if you've gotten any bits of dust, flying insects, or other objects embedded within the clear coat, then you'll need to let the clear coat fully dry and then wet-sand with very fine (1600-grit or finer) finishing paper to remove the flaws, and then re-coat with one or more coats of paint until things are perfect.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........


Can I apply high-heat clear coats directly over bare metal?:

You can, but depending on how hot the surface gets, you run the risk of the clear coat eventually cracking, or yellowing. There are no clear coat products that we know of that are not subject to this possible fate.....and it's not a matter of the temperature resistance rating of the clear coat product, is the lack of the primer or paint "base" that leads to this result.

HCP10356 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT HIGH-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 175-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Rated for up to 500-F temperatures, which is well below the temperatures of engine cases, cylinder jugs, and valve covers. The exhaust port side of a cylinder head could, under rare circumstances, exceed this temperature. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 14.95

HCP10356SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT HIGH-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 27.95

HCP10356SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT HIGH-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 49.95



HCP11059 Aftermarket premium quality engine HIGH-HEAT HIGH-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 200-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Rated for up to 900-F temperatures, which is well below the temperatures of engine cases, cylinder jugs, and valve covers. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 19.95

HCP11059SET2 Aftermarket premium quality engine HIGH-HEAT HIGH-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 37.95

HCP11059SET4 Aftermarket premium quality engine HIGH-HEAT HIGH-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 69.95



HCP11054 Aftermarket engine ULTRA HIGH-HEAT LOW-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 175-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. DO NOT APPLY until base "color" paints are fully cured or you will be starting over again! Rated for up to 2000-F temperatures, which is well below the temperatures of engine cases, cylinder jugs, and valve covers. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 19.95

HCP11054SET2 Aftermarket engine ULTRA HIGH-HEAT LOW-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 37.95

HCP11054SET4 Aftermarket engine ULTRA HIGH-HEAT LOW-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 69.95



ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT PRODUCTS: Exhaust Systems:

Of course, most XJ models used a chrome exhaust system, except for the XJ650 Turbo and the XJ650 and XJ750 Midnight Maxim models. Other owners may be suffering from the inevitable exhaust system rust, and are looking for a solution that doesn't require chrome re-plating or replacement. And finally, many aftermarket (MAC, Kerker, etc.) exhaust systems were available in a low-glass black finish originally, and may need periodic re-coating or touch-up.

We offer a line of ULTRA HIGH-HEAT EXHAUST PAINT that have an ultra-flat finish which can withstand up to 1500-F temperatures when applied properly (and "properly" means over completely clean and freshly prepared bare metal, and then heat-cured following the specified directions).

NOTE: Most factory black exhaust systems (XJ650 Turbo and all Midnight Maxim models) used a much higher-gloss finish on the muffler cans than can be obtained with this product. The header pipes and collector boxes were always a flatter-black finish which is very close to what our ultra-flat black paint will provide.

Typical Coverage: one can will do one or two header pipes, and two cans will do one muffler, or one collector. Coverage may vary depending on the size and condition of the parts being painted, as well as application techniques.



Ultra-High-Heat Primers:

Is primer required to be used with the ultra high-heat exhaust paints?:

No. The advantage of using the ultra-heat primer before the ultra-heat color paint is that the primer will cover any surface blemishes or differences in surface colors, thus helping to ensure an evenly colored final color finish.


Should I sand between each application of ultra-high-heat primer?:

You can, but it should not be necessary. The ultra-heat primers are designed to go on as very thin coats, and are not a "builder" material that's going to fill and "patch" rust pits in the metal, and we know of no product that will! The bare metal needs to be thoroughly sanded and absolutely clean before applying the primer though.

HINT: if you have a brand new set of re-plated chrome header pipes, or a brand new set of aftermarket exhaust system parts, it's not a bad idea to spray the ultra high-heat primer and then the ultra high-heat paint on the inside of the pipes to help reduce or prevent chrome "blue-ing", or the external paint degradation of exhaust header pipes!


Should I sand after the final application of ultra-high-heat primer, before I start applying the ultra-high-heat color paint?:

You can, but it should not be necessary......see the above explanation.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........


Any special tips when applying the ultra-high-heat products?:

Follow the label instructions exactly. All of these ultra-heat paint products require special heat-cycle curing procedures in order for them to provide the intended protection and durability that they are designed to provide. Incorrect primer or color paint or cleat-coat curing will result in the paint burning off. The primer, colors coats, and clear coats can be applied together and then cured all together......no need to cure each individual product.

HCP11051 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PRIMER, grey, is the right product to use for all applications on the exhaust system. Rated for up to 1600-F. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 13.95

HCP11051SET2 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PRIMER, grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 26.95

HCP11051SET4 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PRIMER, grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 49.95



Ultra-High-Heat Paints:

Should I sand between each application of ultra-high-heat color paint?:

You can, but it should not be necessary. The ultra-heat paints are designed to go on as very thin coats, and are not a "builder" material that's going to fill and "patch" rust pits in the metal, and we know of no product that will! The bare metal needs to be thoroughly sanded and absolutely clean before applying the color paint (if primer was not used).

HINT: if you have a brand new set of re-plated chrome header pipes, or a brand new set of aftermarket exhaust system parts, it's not a bad idea to spray the ultra high-heat primer or the ultra high-heat paint on the inside of the pipes to help reduce or prevent chrome "blue-ing", or the external paint degradation of exhaust header pipes!


Should I sand after the final application of ultra-high-heat paint, before I start applying the ultra-high-heat clear coat?:

You can, but it should not be necessary......see the above explanation.


Any special tips when applying the ultra-high-heat products?:

Follow the label instructions exactly. All of these ultra-heat paint products require special heat-cycle curing procedures in order for them to provide the intended protection and durability that they are designed to provide. Incorrect primer or color paint or cleat-coat curing will result in the paint burning off. The primer, colors coats, and clear coats can be applied together and then cured all together......no need to cure each individual product.

HCP11386 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT features an ULTRA-FLAT BLACK finish. Requires special surface preparation and curing procedures. Primer is required. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Each can:
$ 16.95

HCP11386SET2 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT, in the ultra-flat black finish. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 29.95

HCP11386SET4 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT, in the ultra-flat black finish. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 49.95



HCP11052 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT features an ULTRA-FLAT SILVER finish. Requires special surface preparation and curing procedures. Primer is required. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 16.95

HCP11052SET2 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT, in the ultra-flat silver finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 29.95

HCP11052SET4 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT, in the ultra-flat silver finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 49.95



HCP11053 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT features an ULTRA-FLAT GREY finish. Requires special surface preparation and curing procedures. Primer is required. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Each can:
$ 16.95

HCP11053SET2 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT, in the ultra-flat grey finish. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 29.95

HCP11053SET4 Aftermarket exhaust system ULTRA HIGH-HEAT PAINT, in the ultra-flat grey finish. Each aerosol can contains 16 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 49.95



Ultra-High-Heat Clear Coat:

Typical, off-the-shelf clear coat products just aren't going to cut it when you're dealing with exhaust system temperature. They'll rapidly discolor and burn off, many times taking the underlying paint with them. The following low-gloss clear-coat will take everything you can throw at it......temperature-wise........and come back asking for more.


Should I sand between each application of ultra-high-heat clear coat?:

You can, but it should not be necessary. Remember, the ultra-heat clear coat is a very low-gloss finish, so there is no real advantage to the typical "wet-sanding" routine normally done on body panel paints and clear coats, since a high-gloss, mirror-like finish cannot and will not ever be achieved!


Should I sand after the final application of ultra-high-heat clear coat?:

You can, but it should not be necessary. See the above explanation.


Any special tips when applying the ultra-high-heat products?:

Follow the label instructions exactly. All of these ultra-heat paint products require special heat-cycle curing procedures in order for them to provide the intended protection and durability that they are designed to provide. Incorrect primer or color paint or cleat-coat curing will result in the paint burning off. The primer, colors coats, and clear coats can be applied together and then cured all together......no need to cure each individual product.

HCP11054 Aftermarket engine ULTRA HIGH-HEAT LOW-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Requires special surface preparation and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 175-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. DO NOT APPLY until base "color" paints are fully cured or you will be starting over again! Rated for up to 2000-F temperatures, which is well below the temperatures of engine cases, cylinder jugs, and valve covers. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 19.95

HCP11054SET2 Aftermarket engine ULTRA HIGH-HEAT LOW-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 37.95

HCP11054SET4 Aftermarket engine ULTRA HIGH-HEAT LOW-GLOSS CLEAR COAT. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 69.95

----------------------------------------

Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

NON-HIGH-HEAT PAINT PRODUCTS: Frame, Body, and Suspension Components:

Non-High-Heat Primers:

The proper selection of use of a primer is a whole subject onto itself, but we'll try to summarize it quickly by saying that you will never build a square house on a crooked foundation. Your bodywork below the primer is important, of course; but a poor quality primer or an incompatible primer (for the paint type you will be covering it with) is not only going to risk leaving you with disappointing results, but can easily ruin your expensive color paints and clear coat products.

So let's start with the basics, because your primer has a few very important jobs to do. We strongly suggest that you read all the way thru the following section for your own benefit and education, as these issues and concepts apply to primers purchased through us or elsewhere. This knowledge may well prove invaluable to you!


First, a primer must be able to "bite" into the underlying surface and hold on for dear life (so that the upper layers of color paint and clear coat don't flake off along with a poor-quality primer!).

Next, primer must act as a "sealant" which prevents rust or corrosion from forming on the underlying metal surface. It does this job by preventing moisture from migrating through the primer and getting to the metal underneath. NOT ALL PRIMERS CAN ACCOMPLISH THIS; IN FACT, MANY TYPES OF PRIMERS ACTUALLY ABSORB MOISTURE LIKE A SPONGE!. And once the metal underneath starts to rust, the primer loses its bite to the metal, and it starts peeling, blistering, and flaking off, along with the paint on top of it.

Then, the primer has to be sandable, so that it can be used as a "filler" material, both flowing into and filling small flaws or blemishes in the underlying surface, and allowing it to be sanded baby-butt smooth before the color paint is applied. NOTE: you should never need to nor ever "color-sand" the color paints (unless you've gotten careless or extremely unlucky and gotten massive amounts of debris into your paint during or after spraying). This idea of "color-sanding" is a leftover habit from the days of lacquer paints (which are not in general use anymore), and all of our modern resin-based color paints and clear coats do not need, do not benefit, and can actually be degraded by between-coating sanding. It's either the original surface, or the underlying surface-applied filler ('bondo"), or the sandable primer-filler product that gets the sanding and straightening and smoothing and "perfection" work done to it......and then the color paint and clear coats just go on smooth as silk and it's at this level----the bodywork and primer level---- where all the patience and skill and proper techniques comes into play and must be done properly, in order to have a beautiful final "paint job".

Finally, the primer must be able to provide a surface that is compatible with, and which encourages the color paint which follows to....once again....have something to "bite" into as strongly as possible. Some types of primers are incompatible with some types of paints, and the un-informed "mix-and-match" selection process of primer, paint, and clear coat type of products is probably responsible for more "ruined" paint jobs than anything else! The solvents and other chemicals used in the primers, color paints, and clear coats will "attack" (dissolve) each other if they are not compatible with each other......buyer beware!



Which primer is the best to use?:

In our opinion, there is nothing tougher, more durable, more compatible, and meets all of the above requirements better than an EPOXY BASED PRIMER. It bites into and holds tight into the underlying material......all types of metals, fiberglass, and all hard (rigid) plastics.....like an angry junkyard dog. It's moisture-proof like no other (you prime something with epoxy and then leave it out in the rain for a year, and still paint over it without any fear of moisture having crept through to the underlying surface). It's compatible with almost every paint material that you can throw over it, and it will man-bond with those topcoat color paints like soldiers in a foxhole during the mother of all battles.

BUT, epoxy primer is very thin, it doesn't "build" up a thickness very well, and is difficult to sand and "shape". Epoxy primer is not a "filler primer" or "primer-surfacer" (as such products are known in painter-talk), and so......since the primer finish must be "perfect" before you should proceed with the application of the color paints, what should you do?

Here's what, and this is the secret that all the truly high-dollar, show-vehicle painters use, and which we think that you should use, too:


URETHANE PRIMER. Urethane primers have excellent compatibility with most paint topcoat products, and are excellent "fillers", easy to sand and smooth and shape and form into the finish necessary for your color paint to go on smooth and achieve that deep, mirror-like finish. But, urethane primer does not adhere, or "bite", into the underlying surfaces anywhere near as well as epoxy primer does, and urethane primers do especially poorly on bare metal.


So here's the secret: you use both an epoxy and urethane primer: first, you lay down the thin epoxy primer to get the that "T-Rex Bite" into the underlying surface, the moisture lock, and the grabbing strength for the next, overlying product, which will be................the urethane primer, which is workable, sandable, and which will bond strongly and completely with the urethane X-ACT MATCH BODY AND FRAME PAINTS which you're going to spray next.

This the "best of both world's approach" and is the key to building and achieving that "proper foundation" that we talked about earlier.



Your Primer Choices:

We offer a choice of two different professional quality, BULLETPROOF 2-STAGE PRIMERS in both epoxy- and urethane-base versions.

Both of our Bulletproof 2-Stage Primers are now available in aerosol cans that employ a separate, integral catalyst-hardener that brings the aerosol can user into competition with the spray gun user......without the expense, without the mess, without the waste, without the cost and complexity and skill needed, either. If you have proper "rattle can" spray techniques (covered elsewhere), now you, too, can lay down body-shop quality primers that have the all-important chemical hardeners and catalysts mixed into the spray can. It is these separate chemical components----the catalyst, with speeds up the chemical reactions within the paint, and the hardeners, which, well, you can pretty much figure out what it does!----that separates the men from the boys in the painting business.

In fact, one of the main reasons why professional painters spray paint through a gun is because when they mix the primer, they are not just reducing or "thinning" the product down from a thicker, concentrated liquid form into one that easily sprays, but they are also adding the catalysts and hardeners that toughen the paint and produce a more uniform and tougher finish. And up until recently, the only way you were going to be able to perform this mixing was in a paint cup, that was attached to a paint gun and a compressor, and then sprayed. The hardeners and catalysts must be kept separate from each other until just before use, and there was simply no way to achieve that in an aerosol can.......until now!


Our unique 2-stage epoxy or urethane primers contain a separate, breakable internal vial containing the proper amount of catalyst or hardener, and when you're ready to spray, you press the red "nuclear button" on the can, which breaks the internal vial, and releases the good stuff internally, you shake and mix it all up......and out comes a professionally mixed, tough-as-it-gets primer product.

The drawbacks: well, as you can imagine, these Bulletproof products are more expensive than chain-store primers, and, since the catalysts and hardeners have a limited working time, once you press that magic mixing button, it becomes a "use-it-or-lose-it" type of affair; these products have a minimal shelf life after they have been activated (36-72 hours maximum, depending on the product and storage temperatures). So your surface better be primer-ready before you press the button!, or otherwise you're going to waste quite a bit of very nice and very expensive primer! And, you had better be prepared to do the follow-up work-----sanding and shaping the primer filler----within the maximum time available to you (about 36 hours on the urethane primer), or again, you're going to be an unhappy camper in about 2 days time.........

But, if you can plan ahead and have the patience and skills necessary to adhere to a schedule, then these Bulletproof Primer products are the ones that you'll want to use!



What if I'm spraying through an air gun, using pints of paint?:

Due to the extremely hazardous classifications and expensive-to-ship nature of such components in large cans (they only sizes that they are offered in from the manufacturers), we do not offer any non-aerosol versions of the primers, reducers, hardeners, or catalysts needed when purchasing our un-diluted pint cans of paints. We provide you with the recommended manufacturer part numbers for these products with your purchase of pint cans, and you should purchase such components at a local paint and body supply store in your local area, or allow your body shop or painter to choose and order the correct materials.



Should I sand between each application of primer?:

Yes. Your primer, especially the primer-fillers, have to be baby-butt smooth and result in the elimination of any minor surface imperfections, low spots, or high spots before you start applying the color paints.....the application of the color paints and then the clear coats should be a "spray it and let-it-dry" type of procedure. The color paints and clear coats are NOT the time to "fix" surface problems or flaws!. That is what the "surface preparation" (the "bodywork") and the primer stages of the painting process are all about!

Remember this: a "really great paint job" is really a great bodywork and pre-painting job.....



Should I sand after the final application of primer, before I start applying the color coat?:

You had better! And everything had better be absolutely perfect, because this is the last chance you have to "get it right" without having to do a lot of extra effort in the future, up to and including going stripping everything off if necessary and going back to bare metal!

If you've gotten any bits of dust, flying insects, or other objects embedded within the primer during this stage of the process, then you'll need to let the primer fully dry and then wet-sand with very fine (1600-grit or finer) finishing paper to remove the flaws, and then re-coat with more coats of primer and sand until things are perfect.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........


HCP11196 Aftermarket light tan BULLETPROOF EPOXY 2-STAGE PRIMER - SEALER. Unique 2-stage aerosol design can allows at-home results that can normally only be achieved via application with an air gun. Once activated, via the release of an internal catalyst supply, this primer has a shelf life of only 4 days, so it's a use-it-or-lose-it type of affair! But, it provides a tough-as-nails primer coat on all metals, and can also be safely used on all plastics. Safe to use under any of our frame and body paints. NOTE: this primer is not rated for ultra high-heat applications on exhaust systems or brake rotors. 14-ounce spray can.
$ 24.95

HCP11424 Aftermarket light grey BULLETPROOF URETHANE 2-STAGE PRIMER. Unique 2-stage aerosol design can allows at-home results of what is normally sprayed through an air gun. Once activated, via the release of an internal catalyst supply, this primer has a shelf life of only 4 days, so it's a use-it-or-lose-it type of affair! It provides a tough-as-nails primer coat on all metals and plastics. The epoxy-based primer HCP11196 should be used under this urethane primer if you a spraying over old paint or old primer of any type; otherwise, there may be a compatibility issue that may cause paint crazing, peeling, or flaking. Safe to use under any of our frame and body paints. NOTE: this primer is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 14-ounce spray can.
$ 24.95



Frame and Structural Components Paints:

While all XJ models feature black painted frames and major structural components---such as centerstands, kickstands, steering crowns and underbrackets, etc.----they were actually originally produced in a variety of different gloss levels.....we know that it's sometimes hard to perceive these distinctions after 25+ years of grit, grime, sunshine and rain and leftover chain-store rattle can paint jobs, but it's true!

So here's your quick and dirty guide to the Black-Is-Beautiful, But-It-Ain't-All-the-Same world of XJ bikes:


Generally speaking, NO frames and very few major components were ever painted high-gloss black (regardless of what photo enhancements in magazines or advertising brochures might lead you to believe!). Almost any and every part that was within "eyeball view" of the driver was painted with the Code 98 (LGB) Low Gloss Black finish, such as your handlebar control switches, handlebars and handlebar holders, upper steering brackets, hand levers, mirror stalks, master cylinders, etc.

The only exception to this "rule" is with the following items, which were finished in the Code 6G New Yamaha High-Gloss Black finish:

- 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim lower fork tubes, headlight bucket, turn signal housings, tail light housing, and license plate bracket.
- 1982 XJ650RJ Seca headlight bucket. NOTE: the factory parts books specifies that this bucket is finished in a Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss finish, but every original sample that we have seen is finished in this Code 6G high-gloss color.
- 1982-83 XJ650 Turbo lower fork tubes.
- 1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim lower fork tubes and turn signal housings.

Code 98 LGB was used on:

- all models handlebar control switches.
- all models (except XJ550 Maxim, XJ700, and XJ750-X models) handlebar holder brackets.
- all models (except XJ550 Maxim, XJ700, and XJ750-X models) steering crown brackets.
- all models master cylinders.
- XJ650 Turbo, XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, XJ750D (Japan), and XJ1100 frames.
- 1981 XJ550 Maxim models, all XJ650 models (except RJ Seca), XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, XJ750D (Japan) and XJ1100 swingarms.
- ALL models (except XJ650 Turbo) wheel rims.
- XJ650 Turbo and XJ750D (Japan) front fairing hood.
- all XJ750 Seca models license plate brackets.
- all XJ750 Seca models rear grab bar.
- XJ900 fuel tank forward air scoops on non-North American models (USA and Canadian models had silver-painted forward air scoops).


A slightly glossier (but still not a true high-gloss) black finish, known as Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black is a semi-gloss black finish.

Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black was used on:

- All XJ550 models, all XJ650 models (except Turbo), all XJ700 models, XJ750-X models, all XJ750 Seca models, and most XJ900 model frames.
- All XJ700, XJ750-X, and XJ900RK engine mounting brackets.
- 1982-83 XJ550 Maxim, all XJ550 Seca models, 1982 XJ650RJ Seca, and 1981-83 XJ750 Seca swingarms.
- all XJ550 rear wheel chain drive sprockets (this is per the factory parts books; all real-world original versions that we have seen are painted silver).
- All models steering fork lower or "under" bracket.
- 1982-83 550 Seca and XJ750 Seca lower fork tubes.
- XJ650RJ and XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim license plate brackets.
- XJ650 Turbo and XJ750D (Japan) fuel tanks.
- XJ650 Midnight Maxim, XJ650 Turbo, and XJ750 Midnight Maxim rear final drive housing and rear brake drum backing plates.
- most models seat mounting brackets, hinges, etc.


The "invisible parts"----such as horn brackets, kickstands, centerstands, footrest brackets, and engine mounting brackets, etc.----tend to always be painted in a true zero-degree gloss, or what is commonly called "flat black".

Code R4 Flat Black was used on:

- most kickstands, center stands, footpeg brackets, horn brackets, and some model engine mounting brackets. NOTE: the visual distinction between R4 Flat Black and Code 98 LGB (low-gloss black) is a very fine line; many pieces that are specified by the factory as being painted R4 seem to appear to be painted LGB when a brand new sample piece is viewed. Since many such items are, as we noted, normally "invisible" in normal viewing situation, it doesn't really matter which finish you choose, although on the centerstands and kickstands, the slightly glossier Code 98 LGB finish is more attractive.

In fact, due to the harsh treatment and environment that the kickstands and centerstands have to endure, we suggest that you consider having these two small pieces powdercoated to insure the toughest, almost-bulletproof finish that only powder-coating can provide.


One unique structural component finish was the XJ750RL Seca and many XJ900 model swingarms, which used a light silver metallic finish. Termed Code 35 Competition Yamaha Silver, these two applications are the only use of this color on any XJ series bikes.


We offer a low-cost, basic epoxy-based FRAME PAINT in an (incorrect) high-gloss black, and we have all of the correct, original-formula X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINTS for all of the different frame and structural component finishes, available in an ultra-tough urethane paint formula.


Should I sand between each application of color paint?:

No. That's the way that things used to be done, when the "latest and greatest" paints were lacquer-based. It's no longer required, necessary, and is typically a waste of time and effort.


Should I sand after the final application of color paint, before I start applying the clear coat?:

Generally, no. That's the way that things used to be done, when the "latest and greatest" paints were lacquer-based. It's no longer required, necessary, and is typically a waste of time and effort.

However, if you've gotten a lot of dust bits, flying insects, or other objects embedded within the paint during the painting process, then you'll need to let the color paint fully dry and then wet-sand with very fine (1600-grit or finer) finishing paper to remove the flaws, and re-paint with more coats of color.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........


HCP7907SP Aftermarket urethane-based X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code R4 Flat Black finish as used on a variety of components (see list above for guidance). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or hardeners. Primer is required. This "no-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 34.95

HCP7907SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code R4 no-gloss Flat Black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 67.95

HCP7907SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code R4 no-gloss Flat Black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 119.95

HCP7907PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code R4 no-gloss Flat Black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 119.95



HCP7906SP Aftermarket urethane based X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 98 LGB low-gloss black finish as used on a variety of components (see list above for guidance). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or hardeners. Primer is required. This "low-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 34.95

HCP7906SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 98 LGB low gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 67.95

HCP7906SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 98 LGB low gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 119.95

HCP7906PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 98 LGB low gloss black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 119.95



HCP7905SP Aftermarket urethane based X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black finish as used on a variety of components (see list above for guidance). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or hardeners. Primer is required. This "semi-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 34.95

HCP7905SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 67.95

HCP7905SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 119.95

HCP7905PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss finish. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 119.95



HCP7909SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss finish as used on a variety of components (see list above for guidance). Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or hardeners. Primer is required. This "no-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 34.95

HCP7909SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 67.95

HCP7909SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 109.95

HCP7909PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 109.95



HCP10357 Aftermarket epoxy-based FRAME PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Requires no primer, but surface must be completely free of contaminants before applying. This paint is not fuel nor heat resistant. NOTE: high-gloss black is not the correct color for XJ-series frames or structural components! Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
$ 19.95

HCP10357SET2 Aftermarket epoxy-based FRAME PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 37.95

HCP10357SET4 Aftermarket epoxy-based FRAME PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 69.95



HCP7926SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 35 Competition Yamaha Silver metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This very bright silver with light metallics is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on the 1983 XJ900RK swingarm only.....no body parts were every painted with this color! Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7926SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 35 Competition Yamaha Silver. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7926SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 35 Competition Yamaha Silver. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7926PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 35 Competition Yamaha Silver. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP7908SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 4N Flat Silver metallic low-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This flat, medium grey-silver color has a strong metallic within it, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on 1982-83 XJ650 Turbo front and rear wheels only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7908SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 4N Flat Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7908SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 4N Flat Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7908PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 4N Flat Silver metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95

----------------------------------------

Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

Body Panel Color Paints:

Although you might never guess it now, 20+ years after they sat shining on a showroom floor, the factory Yamaha paint colors were some of the most attractive and timely colors of that era: aggressive without being gaudy, and attractive without being silly.

Many times, we've looked at original, sun-faded factory parts and thought to ourselves "Wow. Ugly." ----only to then discover that the original un-faded color was amazingly intense and seductive. This is especially true of the various shades of red or any metallic color used on these era bikes, as the original metallic and pearlescent elements really bleach out over time, and rob the paint of almost all of its original brilliance, tint, and color. When new, they are dazzling!


All of the factory original body paint colors listed below are available in our line of urethane-based X-ACT MATCH BODY PANEL PAINTS for all XJ-series bikes.

NOTE: many side frame cover panels that have a forward or lower "tail" extension piece which are painted black (either the Code 98 LGB or Code 33 Semi-Gloss) except for side covers that are painted black as their primary color----in which case the tail or extension is painted the same primary color as the rest of the cover.

For example, a 1982 XJ650 Maxim that is painted in the Code 4J Black Blue (a high-gloss black finish with subtle blue metal-flakes) will have its right side frame cover "tail extension" area also painted in the same 4J color, while a 1982 XJ650 Maxim that is painted in the Code H8 Star Red as the primary color will have the right side frame cover "tail extension" section finished in the Code 98 LGB low-gloss black color.


Should I sand between each application of color paint?:

No. That's the way that things used to be done, when the "latest and greatest" paints were lacquer-based. It's no longer required, necessary, and is typically a waste of time and effort.


Should I sand after the final application of color paint, before I start applying the clear coat?:

Generally, no. That's the way that things used to be done, when the "latest and greatest" paints were lacquer-based. It's no longer required, necessary, and is typically a waste of time and effort.

However, if you've gotten a lot of dust bits, flying insects, or other objects embedded within the paint during the painting process, then you'll need to let the color paint fully dry and then wet-sand with very fine (1600-grit or finer) finishing paper to remove the flaws, and re-paint with more coats of color.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........



Blacks:

NOTE: Many of the models that are thought of as being painted a solid "gloss black" actually have a colored metal-flake included, so make sure you check your model application carefully!

HCP7909SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This color formula is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on 1981 and 1983 XJ550 Maxims, 1983 XJ550 Seca, 1985 FJ600 models, 1980 XJ650 Maxim, 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim, 1985 XJ700 non-X Maxim, 1986 XJ700 Maxim-X, 1981 XJ750 Seca, 1982-83 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxims, various years of XJ900 models, and 1982-4 XJ1100 Maxim and Midnight Maxims. Also correct for the 1980 XS1100LG and 1981 XS1100LH model bikes. NOTE: some Canadian XJ1100 models may have used the Code 4J Black Blue metallic paint instead of the non-metallic Code 6G gloss black as is typically noted in factory publications. If your original side covers, tank, etc. show evidence of very small blue metal-flakes in the paint, then you should use the Code 4J metallic Black Blue paint listed further below. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 34.95

HCP7909SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 67.95

HCP7909SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 109.95

HCP7909PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 6G New Yamaha Black pure high-gloss black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 109.95

NOTE: The above Code 6G New Yamaha Black is so beautiful, that the following bikes also used this same finish on the following components:

- 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim lower fork tubes, headlight bucket, turn signal housings, tail light housing, and license plate bracket.
- 1982 XJ650RJ Seca headlight bucket. NOTE: the factory parts books specifies that this bucket is finished in a Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss finish, but every original sample that we have seen is finished in this Code 6G high-gloss color.
- 1982-83 XJ650 Turbo lower fork tubes.
- 1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim lower fork tubes and turn signal housings.



HCP7910SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 4J Black Blue high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This color formula is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on 1982 XJ550 Maxim and 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim models and features the low-density, large size blue metal-flake as original (flakes are slightly smaller than the original size, but you'd never notice unless we told you about it!). Also appears on the 1980 XS1100SH models. NOTE: some Canadian XJ1100 models may have used this color instead of the non-metallic Code 6G gloss black as is typically noted in factory publications.

Most owners do not even realize that their bikes have these blue metal-flakes in the black paint, as it is a very subtle feature, but in the correct light and reflection, they "pop" out at you in a remarkable way! Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 37.95

HCP7910SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 4J Black Blue high-gloss black with blue flakes. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 69.95

HCP7910SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 4J Black Blue high-gloss black with blue flakes. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 119.95

HCP7910PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 4J Black Blue high-gloss black with blue flakes. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 119.95



HCP7913SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 2J Black Red high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This color formula is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally only on the 1981 XJ650 Maxim models and features the low-density, large size red metal-flake as original (flakes are slightly smaller than the original size, but you'd never notice unless we told you about it!). Also used on the 1980 XS1100SG models.

Most owners do not even realize that their bikes have these red metal-flakes in the black paint, as it is a very subtle feature, but in the correct light and reflection, they "pop" out at you in a remarkable way! Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 37.95

HCP7913SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2J Black Red high-gloss black with red flakes. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 69.95

HCP7913SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2J Black Red high-gloss black with red flakes. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 119.95

HCP7913PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2J Black Red high-gloss black with red flakes. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 119.95



HCP7906SP Aftermarket urethane based X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 98 LGB low-gloss black finish as used on the side frame cover "tails" or "extensions" whenever the extension was painted black.......this includes all of the following models:

- XJ650 Maxim models on the right side frame cover (on all models that were painted in a silver or red main body panel color---any models that were painted in the 6G, 2J, or 4J glossy black main body color had the right side cover tail painted the same main color as the rest of the bike).

- 1982 XJ650RJ Seca models (on both side frame covers).

- all XJ750 Seca models on both side frame covers (even if the main body color was 6G black).

- all XJ700 and XJ750-X models on the right side frame cover (on all models that were painted in a blue or red main body panel color---models that were painted in the 6G glossy black main body color had the right side cover tail painted the same main color as the rest of the bike).

This paint requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or hardeners. Primer is required. This "low-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 34.95

HCP7906SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 98 LGB low-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 67.95

HCP7906SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 98 LGB low-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 119.95

HCP7906PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 98 LGB low-gloss black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 119.95



HCP7905SP Aftermarket urethane based X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black finish as used on the side frame cover "tails" or "extensions" whenever the extension was painted black.......this includes all of the following models:

- 1982-83 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models plastic side cover insert "lip" that protrudes above or below the edge of the metal side cover frame.

- 1983 XJ900RK Seca models main frame side cover leading edge simulated "air vents".

- 1982-84 XJ1100 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models plastic side cover insert "lip" that protrudes above or below the edge of the metal side cover frame.

This paint requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or hardeners. Primer is required. This "low-gloss black" is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 34.95

HCP7905SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 67.95

HCP7905SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 119.95

HCP7905PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT, Code 33 Competition Yamaha Black semi-gloss black. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 119.95



Blues:

NOTE: this is one of our favorite colors!

HCP7911SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Code MW Bluish Black metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is a deep, dark navy blue with heavy blue and silver metallic, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on all 1985 XJ700 Maxim-X, 1986 XJ700 non-X Maxims, and 1985-86 XJ750 Maxim-X models. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7911SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MW Bluish Black metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7911SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MW Bluish Black metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7911PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MW Bluish Black metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



Dual-Stage Whites:

NOTE: because of the heavy concentration of opalescent or pearlescent aggregates in these paints, the following colors are only available in a 2-part BASE COAT and MID COAT system. The Base Coat is the "basic" color, and then most or all of the tinting, pearlescence, opals, and metallics are applied within the much thinner Mid Coat paint. This 2-part system is, of course, twice as expensive as a single-stage paint, but it is simply not possible (no matter what anyone else tells you) to achieve the correct factory appearance with a single-stage paint. We've seen how "close" you can get with single-stage paints of this type; the results can be surprisingly nasty and gruesome.....

These 2-stage paints are also much more difficult to apply correctly than a single-stage formula, as the amount of paint applied of both the Base and the Mid Coats in their relative amounts to each other, can change the final appearance, sometimes dramatically.

For this reason, it is imperative that you first practice on some excess material until you have familiarized yourself with the proper spray techniques and coverage amounts of both the base and the mid coats necessary to achieve the correct final, finished appearance.


And although we do offer these type paints in aerosol cans, the truth is that these 2-stage colors are very difficult to apply properly via aerosol (spray) cans, and we strongly suggest that if you are going to be re-painting an entire bike in this color, that you bite the bullet and buy this paint in the pint cans and have it professionally applied. It is a tough color to achieve correctly, but it is truly is a stunningly "brilliant" color when applied properly.


HCP7904BCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code Y9 New Yamaha White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is one of the many original BRILLIANCE COLORS due to it's extremely high concentration of metallics, pearl, or other additives that gives it that special radiance.

Brilliance colors are applied in two stages: the first stage---this BASE COAT----is the color paint with only some of the additives. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is then applied as the MID-COAT, and the truth be known, it is very difficult to properly apply it absolutely correctly. Practice makes perfect so please practice on some scrap material before you paint your own parts! The temperature, humidity, surface preparation, and the relative amount of the base coat vs. the mid-coat that is being applied can and will change the final appearance of these 2-part paint finishes! These paints are formulated to be as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on the 1981 XJ550 Seca models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7904BCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code Y9 New Yamaha White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7904BCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code Y9 New Yamaha White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7904BCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code Y9 New Yamaha White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP7904MCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Code Y9 New Yamaha White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is applied with this MID-COAT paint, used along with and on top of the Y9 Base Coat product above. Cannot be used as a stand-along "color". Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7904MCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code Y9 New Yamaha White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7904MCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code Y9 New Yamaha White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7904MCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code Y9 New Yamaha White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP9679BCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Silky White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is one of the many original BRILLIANCE COLORS due to it's extremely high concentration of metallics, pearl, or other additives that gives it that special radiance.

Brilliance colors are applied in two stages: the first stage---this BASE COAT----is the color paint with only some of the additives. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is then applied as the MID-COAT, and the truth be known, it is very difficult to properly apply it absolutely correctly. Practice makes perfect so please practice on some scrap material before you paint your own parts! The temperature, humidity, surface preparation, and the relative amount of the base coat vs. the mid-coat that is being applied can and will change the final appearance of these 2-part paint finishes! These paints are formulated to be as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on the 1983 XJ900RK Seca Canadian models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP9679BCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Silky White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP9679BCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Silky White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP9679BCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Silky White BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP9679MCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Silky White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is applied with this MID-COAT paint, used along with and on top of the Silky White Base Coat product above. Cannot be used as a stand-along "color". Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP9679MCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Silky White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP9679MCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Silky White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP9679MCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Silky White MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95

----------------------------------------

Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

Single-Stage Reds and Maroons:

PLEASE NOTE: red pigments are hard to get 100% accurate color match from batch-to-batch of paint mixtures, so if possible, you may need to "mix" the application from the first batch to this batch of cans.........such as, use up the first cans of paint to do the first coat on all items, and then this second batch to do the second (or subsequent) coats). The colors will be close enough so that this will not present a problem, but if there is any difference in shading, metallic content, or what paint people call "the flop" of the paint, the above process will eliminate any visual differences in the final painted items.

HCP7914SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 7J New Ruby Red metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is a dark maroon-red with a moderate amount of metallics, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Faded versions of this paint look awful, as all of the red tends to wash out, leaving it appearing as an almost-rust colored paint, but the original color is very attractive! Originally used on all of the following models: 1981 XJ550 Maxim, 1980 XJ650 Maxim, 1983 XJ750 Maxim, and 1982 XJ1100 models. Also featured on the 1980 XS1100G and XS1100SG models. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7914SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 7J New Ruby Red metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7914SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 7J New Ruby Red metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7914PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 7J New Ruby Red metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP8058SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 4H Cardinal Red high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is a bright dark red with a minimum amount of metallic, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Originally used on 1980-81 XJ650 Euro, 1982 XJ650RJC (Canadian) Seca, and 1981 XS1100SH models. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP8058SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 4H Cardinal Red. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP8058SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 4H Cardinal Red. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP8058PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 4H Cardinal Red. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP7916SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code H8 Star Red semi-metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is a bright medium-red with a moderate amount of metallics, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Faded versions of this paint look awful, as all of the red tends to wash out, leaving it appearing as an almost-rust colored paint, but the original color is very attractive! Originally used on 1982 XJ650 Maxim models. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7916SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code H8 Star Red semi-metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7916SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code H8 Star Red semi-metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7916PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code H8 Star Red semi-metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



NOTE: the following two colors were used on the 1982 XJ550 Seca models, and differ only slightly in their color tint. The HCP7915 Bright Red T5 color is exactly that: bright red. The HCP7915DR Dark Red T5 is the same basic color, but is a darker, less bright shade of red. Both colors have been observed on original 1982 XJ550 Seca models, and we have no idea why some bikes were finished in the bright red and others in the "darker" bright red, but it is a very visible difference. Perhaps Yamaha changed paint suppliers during the 1982 production year and the shade of red paint was changed slightly. In our opinion, the brighter red color is more attractive, and more keeping with the sporty, attention-grabbing nature of this bike, but we do have it available in both original shades for restoration purposes.

HCP7915SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code T5 Maxim Bright Red metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This stunning color is a very bright traffic-light-red with a moderate amount of metallics, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Originally used on all 1982 XJ550 Seca models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7915SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code T5 Maxim Bright Red metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7915SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code T5 Maxim Bright Red metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7915PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code T5 Maxim Bright Red metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP7915DRSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code T5 Maxim Dark Red metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This stunning color is a very bright traffic-light-red with a moderate amount of metallics, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Originally used on all 1982 XJ550 Seca models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7915DRSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code T5 Maxim Dark Red metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7915DRSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code T5 Maxim Dark Red metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7915DRPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code T5 Maxim Dark Red metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP7919SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 1W Romanesque Crimson metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This original color is a medium bright red with a moderate amount of metallics, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Faded versions of this paint look a brownish rust-colored, but the original color is very attractive! Originally used on 1983 XJ750 Seca models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7919SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 1W Romanesque Crimson metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7919SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 1W Romanesque Crimson metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7919PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 1W Romanesque Crimson metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP7921SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code KU Deep Scarlet metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This is a dark reddish-brown, heavy metallic color with orange undertones, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Originally used on 1985 XJ700 Maxim-X models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7921SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code KU Deep Scarlet metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7921SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code KU Deep Scarlet metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7921PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code KU Deep Scarlet metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP7928SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code MX Sparkle Maroon metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This is a very dark, almost purplish maroon-brown, a heavily metallic color, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Originally used on 1986 XJ700 Maxim-X models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7928SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MX Sparkle Maroon metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7928SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MX Sparkle Maroon metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7928PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MX Sparkle Maroon metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP7920SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code MV Red-E-Sparkle semi-metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This color is a dark maroon-red with purplish undertones, has a strong metallic content, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color. Faded versions of this paint can appear almost bright purple, as all of the red tends to wash out leaving just the undertones present. Originally used on 1986 XJ700 Maxim non-X models, although we have seen some 1986 Maxim-X models painted in this color also. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7920SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MV Red-E-Sparkle metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7920SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MV Red-E-Sparkle metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7920PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code MV Red-E-Sparkle metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



Dual-Stage Reds and Maroons:

NOTE: because of the heavy concentration of opalescent or pearlescent aggregates in these paints, the following colors are only available in a 2-part BASE COAT and MID COAT system. The Base Coat is the "basic" color, and then most or all of the tinting, pearlescence, opals, and metallics are applied within the much thinner Mid Coat paint. This 2-part system is, of course, twice as expensive as a single-stage paint, but it is simply not possible (no matter what anyone else tells you) to achieve the correct factory appearance with a single-stage paint. We've seen how "close" you can get with single-stage paints of this type; the results can be surprisingly nasty and gruesome.....

These 2-stage paints are also much more difficult to apply correctly than a single-stage formula, as the amount of paint applied of both the Base and the Mid Coats in their relative amounts to each other, can change the final appearance, sometimes dramatically.

For this reason, it is imperative that you first practice on some excess material until you have familiarized yourself with the proper spray techniques and coverage amounts of both the base and the mid coats necessary to achieve the correct final, finished appearance.


And although we do offer these type paints in aerosol cans, the truth is that these 2-stage colors are very difficult to apply properly via aerosol (spray) cans, and we strongly suggest that if you are going to be re-painting an entire bike in this color, that you bite the bullet and buy this paint in the pint cans and have it professionally applied. It is a tough color to achieve correctly, but it is truly is a stunningly "brilliant" color when applied properly.


IMPORTANT NOTE: the following will be confusing to most non-professional painters, but don't feel bad: it was confusing to us at first, too. If you have already read through the section above about the difficulty of and the importance of applying these two different "components" of these 2-part colors......the base coat and the mid-coat......then we're going to ask you to read through it again, because especially in these 2-part "red" colors, the varying amounts of the base-coat versus the mid-coat application becomes CRITICAL to the final, finished appearance of the painted surface. The depth of the color and even the final shade of "color" can vary dramatically depending on how these two materials are applied, both in terms of thickness of each coat, drying time, temperature and humidity at the time of application, relative proportions of each, etc.

Partly this is due to the sensitivity of the human eye to the color "red" (your eyes have more "red" cell receptors than any other kind), but it is also due to the fact that these Yamaha red colors are as close as possible to what is commonly called "candy" colors, meaning a very heavy content of pearlescent and opalescent elements in relation to the "base" color. So you're starting out with a very "weak" red base, and then varying it tremendously with the application of the mid-coat "color" (actually, it's not quite that simple, but that's about the easiest way that we know how to explain it!).

This is why you'll see that the Code 2U Super Red paint is specified for use for "some" 1983 XJ900RK and "some" 1985 XJ700 non-X models, and you'll see the same usage noted for the Code 63 Brilliant Red. Originally, these bikes were finished in the 2U Super Red color, but once initial parts production was used up, all subsequent parts production was painted using the Code 63 Brilliant Red color, since the Code 63 Brilliant Red color can be used to achieve varied shades of a final "color" depending on how it is applied. Apply a little more base-coat and a little less mid-coat, for example, and the Code 63 paint becomes the 2U Super Red. Vary the concentrations of the base and mid-coats a little bit the other way, and badda-bing, badda-boom--------you have the Code 63 Brilliant Red color. Tweak a bit more and all of sudden you're seeing a showroom-fresh coat of Code 4H Cardinal Red (1982 XJ650RJC Seca models) pouring forth. And so on.....


The Code 2U Super Red formulation is more muted in the concentration of the color elements, and you cannot use those paints to ever achieve a Code 63 Brilliant Red color. But using the Code 63 Base Coat and Mid Coat components, you can create the whole spectrum of "red" finishes.......Code 2U Super Red, Code 4H Cardinal Red, and of course, the Code 63 Brilliant Red.

Because of the extreme difficulty involved in using these paints to get the desired finished look (color and tint), we strongly advise you to:

a) test, test, and test on scrap pieces before trying to use these colors at home, and.........

b) don't try it at home. Buy the pint cans and have a professional who knows what they're doing and who is experienced at applying these "brilliance colors" do the paint work for you.


NOTE that "extreme" difficulty means that if your spray technique isn't just right, you'll not only risk getting the "wrong" final color appearance, but you may get multiple final color appearances within the same panel being painted! If your spraying speed across the panel doesn't remain almost perfectly constant, then one spot will end up with a greater (or lesser) concentration and proportion of base-to-mid coat, and thus a different final "color" will be the result!

Although we hate to discourage you from doing your own work, we would much rather encourage you to do the right work, and sometimes that means contracting the services of a skilled professional, rather than making a mess of things by practicing on your own bike!


HCP7917BCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Code 2U Super Red semi-metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is one of the many original BRILLIANCE COLORS due to it's extremely high concentration of metallics, pearl, or other additives that gives it that special radiance.

Brilliance colors are applied in two stages: the first stage---this BASE COAT----is the color paint with only some of the additives. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is then applied as the MID-COAT, and the truth be known, it is very difficult to properly apply it absolutely correctly. Practice makes perfect so please practice on some scrap material before you paint your own parts.....this color is extremely difficult for a non-professional to apply correctly. The temperature, humidity, surface preparation, and the relative amount of the base coat vs. the mid-coat that is being applied can and will change the final appearance of these 2-part paint finishes! These paints are formulated to be as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on all of the following models: 1982 XJ750 Maxim, 1983 XJ550 Maxim, 1983 XJ650 Maxim, some 1983 XJ900RK Seca, and some 1985 XJ700 non-X models. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7917BCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2U Super Red BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7917BCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2U Super Red BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7917BCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2U Super Red BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP7917MCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Code 2U Super Red semi-metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is applied with this MID-COAT paint, used along with and on top of the Super Red Base Coat product above. Cannot be used as a stand-along "color". Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7917MCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2U Super Red MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7917MCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2U Super Red MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7917MCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 2U Super Red MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP7918BCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Code 63 Brilliant Red semi-metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is one of the many original BRILLIANCE COLORS due to it's extremely high concentration of metallics, pearl, or other additives that gives it that special radiance.

Brilliance colors are applied in two stages: the first stage---this BASE COAT----is the color paint with only some of the additives. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is then applied as the MID-COAT, and the truth be known, it is very difficult to properly apply it absolutely correctly. Practice makes perfect so please practice on some scrap material before you paint your own parts.....this color is extremely difficult for a non-professional to apply correctly. The temperature, humidity, surface preparation, and the relative amount of the base coat vs. the mid-coat that is being applied can and will change the final appearance of these 2-part paint finishes! These paints are formulated to be as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on all of the following models: 1981-82 XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ650RJC Seca, some 1983 XJ900RK Seca, and some 1985 XJ700 non-X models. As stated previously, with varying amounts of base vs. mid-coat application, this Code 63 paint can achieve any of the various original shades of reds: Code 2U Super Red, Code 4H Cardinal Red, and Code 63 Brilliant Red. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7918BCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 63 Brilliant Red BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7918BCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 63 Brilliant Red BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7918BCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 63 Brilliant Red BASE COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP7918MCSP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, features the correct Yamaha Code 63 Brilliant Red semi-metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. The majority of the tinting and pearlescence is applied with this MID-COAT paint, used along with and on top of the Super Red Base Coat product above. Cannot be used as a stand-along "color". Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7918MCSPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 63 Brilliant Red MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7918MCSPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 63 Brilliant Red MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7918MCPC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 63 Brilliant Red MID COAT pearlescent high-gloss finish Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



Silvers:

PLEASE NOTE: silver pigments are hard to get 100% accurate color match from batch-to-batch of paint mixtures, so if possible, you may need to "mix" the application from the first batch to this batch of cans.........such as, use up the first cans of paint to do the first coat on all items, and then this second batch to do the second (or subsequent) coats). The colors will be close enough so that this will not present a problem, but if there is any difference in shading, metallic content, or what paint people call "the flop" of the paint, the above process will eliminate any visual differences in the final painted items.


HCP7922SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 9G Frost Silver metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This beautiful color is slightly mis-named, as it's really a deep, dark grey with heavy silver metallics, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on the 1981 XJ650 Maxim models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7922SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 9G Frost Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7922SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 9G Frost Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7922PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 9G Frost Silver metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95



HCP7923SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 6M Star Silver metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This medium-dark grey has a heavy concentration of very fine metallics within it, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on the 1982 XJ550 Maxim and 1982 XJ750 Seca models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7923SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 6M Star Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7923SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 6M Star Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7923PC Aftermarket b]X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT[/b], Code 6M Star Silver metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP7924SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 1U Quartz Silver metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This very light, silky silver has a very fine backdrop of metallic within it, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on the 1984 FJ600 models, 1982 XJ650RJ Seca, the 1983 XJ750 Seca, and the 1984 XJ750RL Seca models only. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7924SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 1U Quartz Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7924SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 1U Quartz Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7924PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 1U Quartz Silver metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



HCP7925SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 20 Crystal Silver metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This very light, silky silver has a very fine backdrop of metallic within it, and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on 1980 XJ650 Euro models, the 1982-83 XJ650 Turbo models, and the 1983 XJ750D fuel-injected (Japan only) models. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 39.95

HCP7925SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 20 Crystal Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 74.95

HCP7925SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 20 Crystal Silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 129.95

HCP7925PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 20 Crystal Silver metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 129.95



Gold:

NOTE: this color is used primarily on Midnight Maxim models. This same Nebular Gold color is also used on the engine side covers, disc brake rotor hubs, final drive units, and rear drum brake backing plates on Midnight Maxim models and on the oil pump covers on XJ650 Turbo models. Since those are high-heat surfaces, you will find the high-heat version of this paint, for re-paint or touch-up purposes for such areas, in the high-heat paints section of the catalog. The paints listed below are not for high-heat applications and should only be used on body parts or trim pieces.


HCP7929SP Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT features the correct Yamaha Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic high-gloss finish as used on painted metal and plastic body panels, cowlings, fairings, etc. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and cures without heat or catalysts. Primer is required. This is the rich, golden metallic color used on the engine cover inserts and lettering, wheel rims, and other small trim pieces and is as close as possible to the original Yamaha color as used originally on all XJ650 Midnight Maxims, XJ750 Midnight Maxims, and XJ1100 Midnight Maxims models. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Each can:
$ 42.95

HCP7929SPSET2 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
$ 79.95

HCP7929SPSET4 Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
$ 139.95

HCP7929TU Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. In an small brush-top 1.75 ounce bottle, for easier application of this product on the trim inserts.
$ 14.95

HCP7929PC Aftermarket X-ACT MATCH BODY PARTS PAINT, Code 8L Nebular Gold metallic. Pint can, must be reduced and sprayed through a paint gun.
$ 139.95

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Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

Hard Plastic Parts Paint:

Hard plastic parts-----such as airboxes, rear inner fenders, mirror housings, headlight housings (on rectangular-headlight models), storage compartments, and other such items----can be painted with the same body paints as listed above......there is no special "plastic parts paint" that is necessary (and never use primer on these types of plastic parts!).

HOWEVER, the awful dilemma that you face with many of these types of parts is that they were never "painted" to begin with----the black colors were originally molded into the plastic as part of the plastic formation process.

Therefore, it is very difficult to properly re-finish and duplicate the original appearances of such pieces with paint since they were not colored via a paint process originally.

BUT, we're all familiar with the type of degradation that is commonly seen on such plastic parts.....mainly, UV-radiation, chemical, and heat exposure, all of which "bleaches" such plastic items and leaches out the original dyes, leaving the black finish "blotchy", streaked, or whited-out in spots.

Although there are products in the marketplace that claim to restore or renew such plastic parts back to their original "blackness", our experience shows that while they may add a glossy sheen back to such plastic parts, they cannot and will not uniformly darken the plastic as their advertising claims would lead you to believe. Thus, your "streaky" or white-spotted airbox will be shiny and glossy again after an application of such a product, but it will still be streaky, blotchy, or whited-out in spots just like it was before----only in a darker shade of blotch or streaks.

AND, once you apply such a product to your plastic parts, well, then you're never going to get a paint product to stick to it (no matter how much you try to clean or remove the other product).

The only way to rid hard plastics of such discoloration is to actually "cover" the plastic surface with a thin, new surface-----in other words, with a chemical dye or a paint. The new surface covers and thus hides the discoloration in the plastic material, giving the plastic surface that new-looking uniform appearance that visually identifies it as------well, as "new". The uniformity of the surface finish and appearance is what makes a plastic part appear "new", and not just how "shiny" it is.

But then again......it's hard to get a part that wasn't originally painted to look "the same as new" when a painted surface finish is applied.....even if it is a uniform finish.

NOTE: hard plastic surfaces to be painted must be completely clean of all foreign substances, or the paint will not stick, and you'll end up with a real mess! We recommend the use of the following products, in the following order, to insure that the parts to be re-finished are truly, absolutely, zestfully clean and ready for painting:

Start out with a film-free, fast-drying solvent-based cleaner, our HCP10921 DEEP CLEANER, and then follow up with the HCP10917 PLASTIC PREP solvent, and then finally prepare for painting with the HCP10923 PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER spray.


Once the parts are clean, then they are colored ("painted") using the same primers and X-ACT MATCH FRAME AND COMPONENTS PAINT listed above (actually, you can use the frame-and-components or the body paints, as they are one and the same in formulation; however, since all original plastic parts are painted in some shade of non-glossy black, that is why we say to use the "frame paints").

As a useful guide to the proper black finishes used on various hard plastic parts, this following list should give you the proper direction. Some highly visible plastic parts, such as the plastic headlight housing and mirrors, could be finished in either the R4 Flat Black or the Code 98 LGB low-gloss black.

Please note that if you apply a clear coat over painted plastic parts, you should use a low-gloss clear coat such as the HCP11291 listed in the "Clear Coat" products section further below.


HCP7907SP Code R4 no-gloss flat black paint:

- TCI support plates
- air cleaner boxes,
- tool storage boxes
- battery boxes

NOTE: on the following two items, the R4 Flat Black is the correct finish, but they actually look better if you use the Code 98 LGB black finish!:

- plastic headlight housings on 1982 XJ750 Maxim and all XJ750 Seca models
- plastic mirror housings.


HCP7906SP Code 98 LGB low-gloss black paint:

- ignition switch covers
- handlebar covers


HCP7905SP Code 33 semi-gloss black paint:

- plastic turn signal housings
- 1982-83 XJ550 Seca chain guard


HCP10921 Aftermarket final paint-prep METAL PARTS PRE-PAINT DEEP CLEANER. Unlike standard solvents that you might be tempted to use as a final surface cleaner----such as mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, paint thinner, etc.----this product actually not only releases greases, waxes, and oils from the surface, but chemically combines with them and then evaporates off. Other solvents may dissolve such contaminants, but merely liquefy and "spread them around" on the surface, typically "removing" less than 50% of them! This is a professional-grade, body-shop product. Always use in an extremely well-ventilated area and with proper eye, skin, and respiratory protection; the chemicals and fumes are poisonous. 14-ounce aerosol can goes a long way.
$ 14.95

HCP10917 Aftermarket final prep PLASTIC PARTS PRE-PAINT CLEANER. Formulated specially for all types of plastics, it will not distort or swell the material nor migrate into the surface. Use immediately before the plastic bonding agent is applied. This is a professional-grade, body-shop product. Always use in an extremely well-ventilated area and with proper eye, skin, and respiratory protection; the chemicals and fumes are poisonous. 11-ounce aerosol can goes a long way.
$ 14.95

HCP10923 Aftermarket plastic parts PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER is specially designed for all types of plastics. Think of it as a primer for plastic parts before you apply the color. Come sin a 12-ounce aerosol can. Each:
$ 21.95



Frame and Body Parts Clear Coat Sealers:

For use on all non-engine applications, we offer a variety of high-gloss or low-gloss CLEAR COAT products that you'll need to apply to both allow the paint to cure, to provide fuel, chemical, and UV protection. NOTE: none of the clear-coat products that we offer are resistant to brake fluid.

High-gloss spray coats are "crystal clear", and thus will bring out the full depth and dimensions in your color paints, while the low-gloss clear coats damp down the luster and soften the color.

Low-gloss clear coats are normally used on painted plastic parts (black) to prevent such items from having an un-natural, "fake" shine to them (such over-gloss will occur even if the base color underneath is a low-gloss or flat black color), and on steering crown brackets, rear aluminum grab bars and footpeg mount brackets, etc.



Our STANDARD GRADE HIGH-GLOSS or LOW-GLOSS CLEAR COATS are traditional products, and apply in the manner in which most people typically associate with aerosol product characteristics.......easy-to-use, and with a long shelf-life.

But since the clear coat for most painted body panels will be a high-gloss formula, you'll want to consider that our premium BULLETPROOF GLOSS CLEAR COAT product than brings an almost body-shop quality product and finish into the hands of the home user. By combining a separate vial of hardener within the aerosol can---which is activated immediately before the use of the product---this clear coat provides a bulletproof finish once it dries and cures. For sensitive areas such as your fuel tank, which is going to take an occasional hit of fuel (and the area around the cap is almost always exposed to fuel vapors, whether or not there is an actual liquid spill), we strongly recommend the extra expense of this product!

NOTE: once the hardener is activated.....which is what gives this clear coat its high-gloss and ultra-durability.....you only have a limited time frame to use this product (about 24-36 hours). Thus you should activate the product only when your parts are painted and fully ready for clear-coating!

Additionally, because of the special high-flow nozzle that this product is equipped with, you will have to take a few moments to familiarize yourself with the spray pattern and paint volumes that you will experience.....which is quite different than what normal aerosol products can achieve. Thus you must also allow yourself time to practice applying this product on a test material. Because of the higher volume of product being sprayed, it is very easy to apply too much product, too quickly, and thus suffer the dreaded "runs".



Should I sand between each application of clear coat?:

No. That's the way that things used to be done, when the "latest and greatest" clear coats were lacquer-based. It's no longer required, necessary, and is typically a waste of time and effort.



Should I sand, buff, and polish after the final application of clear coat?:

Although not absolutely necessary, you can if you find that you've gotten any dirt, grit, or debris in the finish that you just can't live with and therefore wish to remove, or, if you're going for a "museum-look" mirror finish.

Hint: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........

A couple of notes about such activities: first, it is generally a skill that you have to acquire from doing it many times over to become expert at it....meaning, your first few attempts are going to result in you making a mess of things, as beginners tend to try to go too far, too fast, and "burn through" the clear coat or create swirl marks everywhere. Practice Makes Perfect so if you are tempted to cross this "final frontier" in your brave new world of painting, then primer, paint, and clear coat a couple of "scrap" pieces of material at the same time that you're painting your bike, so you have those scrap pieces available for you to practice on.

The entire polishing process normally requires you to start with a 1200-grit or finer finishing paper and wet-sand the surface evenly and smoothly, then go to 1600-grit and wet-sand again, then 2000-grit and wet-sand, and perhaps even a 2500-grit paper for a final wet-sanding (and remember, with all this wet---very wet! sanding, you can easily go through the thin layer of clear coat that you've applied, or you're going back and starting over.........).

Once all your wet sanding is done, only then to you gently and [/b]very lightly[/b] machine polish with a polishing compound.


HCP11291 Aftermarket standard-grade LOW-GLOSS FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT. Once fully cured this clear-coat is ideal for use on rear grab bars, steering crown brackets, fork tubes, or other items that are not subject to fuel or oil contact or high-heat conditions. Lacquer-based formula should not be used over any enamel paint. Although nowhere near as durable as our Bulletproof products below, this is a good quality, affordable clear coat for items that do not require a professionally-sprayed appearance. 16-ounce spray can.
$ 14.95

HCP8037 Aftermarket standard-grade HIGH-GLOSS FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT. Once fully cured this clear-coat is ideal for use on rear grab bars, steering crown brackets, fork tubes, or other items that are not subject to fuel or oil contact or high-heat conditions. Enamel-based formula can be safely used over most other paint coatings, including over lacquer paints. Although nowhere near as durable as our Bulletproof products below, this is a good quality, affordable clear coat for items that do not require a professionally-sprayed appearance. NOTE: this clear-coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 16-ounce spray can.
$ 17.95


HCP11032 Aftermarket BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, CLEAR-COAT WITH HARDENER. Unique 2-stage aerosol design can allows at-home use of what is normally required to be sprayed through an air gun. Once activated via the release of an internal hardener supply, this clear-coat has a shelf life of only 24 hours (1 day), so it's a use-it-or-lose-it type of affair! But, it provides a tough-as-nails urethane protection over all types of materials. Safe to use over any of our frame and body paints. 12-hours drying time to handle, and requires 30-60 days to fully cure. Once fully cured this clear-coat is fully chemical, oil, and fuel resistant, making it ideal for use on gas tanks. NOTE: this clear coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 12-ounce spray can.
$ 21.95

HCP11198 Aftermarket BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT WITH HARDENER. Same features and benefits as the HCP11032 clear-coat above, but in a much faster-drying formula that only requires 2-hours drying time to handle, and requiring just 18-24 days to fully cure. Once fully cured this clear-coat is chemical, oil, and fuel resistant, making it ideal for use on gas tanks. NOTE: this clear coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 12-ounce spray can.
$ 24.95



Brake System Component Re-finishing Paint:

mc18) To properly get that "like-new" appearance from your master cylinder, brake calipers, or brake rotors, you 're going to have to re-paint the dulled exterior surface. But that's the rub.........there is basically no standard coating product.......epoxy, urethane, even most powdercoats........that will stand up to brake fluid. One drop of most brake fluids (silicone-based brake fluids do not fall into this category) will take almost any finish right off, right down to the metal if left on for a few moments, or will just leave an embarrassing stain and smear if wiped up immediately.

Problem solved: this INDUSTRIAL ARMOR COATING PAINT re-finishing product is the only one we've ever found that will stand up to brake fluid like it wasn't there............and, it even comes in a handy aerosol spray-can. This proprietary formula requires that all original coating and paint be stripped off, down to the bare metal, and then thoroughly cleaned before painting, and then baked for 60 minutes at 325-F degrees. And then, you've got a bulletproof coating that's going to last another 25 years!

Available in both an original low-gloss black (for the master cylinder) and a high-gloss black or a subdued grey (for the calipers), this product solves a frustrating problem for home rebuilders.

NOTE: we strongly recommend the use of the HCP11730 Pre-Cleaner product below, as it leaves absolutely no residue once it evaporates, which is absolutely critical when using the Armor Coating Paint. Failure to completely clean and leach out all oils, greases, and other contaminants from the surface and pores of the metal to be re-finished will result in the failure of the applied coating. The HCP11730 pre-cleaner is guaranteed to work properly (if the instructions are followed!); any other cleaner or degreaser solvents may or may not work properly.

NOTE: unless otherwise specified, all of the following products can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.


HCP11730 Aftermarket industrial-strength PRE-PAINT DEGREASER AND SOLVENT, large 24-ounce aerosol can, low-pressure, high-volume spray. Cleans any and everything, and then evaporates completely, leaving no contamination or residue behind. May attack certain plastics and rubber products. Use in well-ventilated area, do not inhale or use around open flames or sources of high heat, use proper protective eye, respiratory, and skin protection. This is a highly flammable, toxic, nasty stuff........but it works great! One can is more than enough to do one master cylinder or two brake calipers. Each:
$ 32.95


HCP11740 Aftermarket INDUSTRIAL ARMOR COATING re-finishing paint, high-gloss black, correct for use on all brake calipers, engine heads, or cylinder jugs. 6-ounce aerosol can (when applied properly) goes a long way....you can do a complete master cylinder or two, and two front calipers with one can....and still have plenty left over. No primer needed, but must be applied over complete bare, completely cleaned, abraded metal surface (meaning, bead-blasted or otherwise slightly roughened to allow for adhesion to occur), and then baked for 60 minutes. Once properly applied and baked, nothing short of mechanical abrasion techniques will remove this coating. Detailed application instructions provided.
$ 42.95

HCP11741 Aftermarket INDUSTRIAL ARMOR COATING re-finishing paint, low-gloss black, correct for use on all brake master cylinders, and painted engine valve covers. 6-ounce aerosol can (when applied properly) goes a long way....you can easily do a complete master cylinder or three, one valve cover, or two front calipers with one can....and still have plenty left over. No primer needed, but must be applied over complete bare, completely cleaned, abraded metal surface (meaning: bead-blasted or otherwise slightly roughened surface prep to allow for adhesion to occur), and then baked for 60 minutes. Once properly applied and baked, nothing short of mechanical abrasion techniques will remove this coating. Detailed application instructions provided.
$ 39.95

HCP18899 Aftermarket INDUSTRIAL ARMOR COATING re-finishing paint, low-gloss silver, correct for use on all XJ700 or XJ750-X calipers. Although not an exact match in color for these original calipers, it is close as we can find. 6-ounce aerosol can (when applied properly) goes a long way....you can easily do a complete master cylinder or three, one valve cover, or two front calipers with one can....and still have plenty left over. No primer needed, but must be applied over complete bare, completely cleaned, abraded metal surface (meaning: bead-blasted or otherwise slightly roughened surface prep to allow for adhesion to occur), and then baked for 60 minutes. Once properly applied and baked, nothing short of mechanical abrasion techniques will remove this coating. Detailed application instructions provided.
$ discontinued



Soft Vinyl Seat Cover Dye:

All XJ models used black vinyl seats, and they sure can take a licking over the years. If your seat is showing it's age through fading and sun-bleaching, our SOFT VINYL PARTS DYE has a flat black finish and can restore that like-new appearance (sorry, it does nothing to fix those ripped or saggy areas........!) without leaving a dangerous slick or greasy residue like most "vinyl-care" products will.

Some of the Seca models also used a soft vinyl-like handlebar "cover(s)" that can also be successfully re-finished with this product.

Typical Coverage: one can will re-color one very faded seat and set of handlebar covers.


NOTE: vinyl surfaces to be dyed must be completely clean of all foreign substances, or the dye will not take evenly, and you'll end up with a real mess! We recommend the use of our gel-like VINYL SOAP CLEANER, to completely de-grease the vinyl, and then followed by the VINYL PREP listed below for optimal results.

HCP10916 Aftermarket VINYL CLEANER cleans deeply into the vinyl material, releasing and removing greases, oils, and other contaminants from the material. This gel-like soap comes in a 12-ounce squeeze tube, and is used prior to the HCP10918 vinyl prep listed below. One tube is more than enough to do plenty of sets! Each can:
$ 14.95


NOTE: unless otherwise specified, all of the following products can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.

HCP10918 Aftermarket VINYL PREP not only cleans but actually softens the vinyl material and opens up the pores to allow the vinyl dye to penetrate the surface of the material, which is the only way to properly "dye" the material. One can is plenty to do one complete seat and the handlebar covers as used on some Seca models. Each aerosol can contains 15 ounces. Each can:
$ 14.95


HCP10349 Aftermarket VINYL DYE produces a high-gloss black finish. We strongly recommend the use of the vinyl cleaner and vinyl prep products listed above for best results! Each aerosol can contains 12 ounces. One can does one seat:
$ 10.95

HCP11050 Aftermarket VINYL DYE produces a low-gloss black finish. We strongly recommend the use of the vinyl cleaner and vinyl prep products listed above for best results! Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. One can does one seat:
$ 12.95

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Re: XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION O: EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, P

PAINTING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

Petcock Block-Off Plates:

t1) Aftermarket petcock tank opening painting BLOCK-OFF PLATE AND GASKET----a die-cut thin aluminum plate and matching rubber gasket, exactly the same size as the petcock-to-tank top mounting flange (or "face").

Before tank paint stripping or during actual tank painting, you'll remove your petcock and replace it with this plate, and therefore won't paint the oval petcock mounting area on the tank (which you definitely don't want to do---it should be bare metal for a proper seal). Includes a pair of mounting screws also, so you don't have to paint over your original or new petcock-to-tank mounting screws, either.

Of course, these block-off plates also works great when performing an electrolytic cleaning of the tank, since you really DON'T want to leave your petcock in the tank when performing such a process!

NOTE: these pieces are not intended for, nor should be used as, a permanent installation on the tank!


HCP634SET Aftermarket petcock BLOCK-OFF PLATE AND GASKET. Fits all XJ550 models, all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, all XJ750 tanks, and all XJ1100 models.
$ 11.95

HCP3010SET Aftermarket petcock BLOCK-OFF PLATE AND GASKET. Fits all XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700 models, and all XJ900RK Seca tanks.
$ 12.95



Fuel Sender Block-Off Plates:

t2) Aftermarket tank fuel sender opening tank painting BLOCK-OFF PLATE AND GASKET ---- this die-cut metal plate and matching rubber gasket, exactly the same size as the fuel sender opening, allows you to easily block-off the opening in situations where you are missing the sending unit, re-painting the tank, etc. Each kit contains the block-off plate, gasket, mounting bolts, and sealing washers.

Before tank paint stripping or during actual tank painting, you'll remove your fuel sending unit and replace it with this plate, and therefore won't paint the sender mounting area on the tank (which you definitely don't want to do---it should be bare metal for a proper seal). Includes a set of four mounting screws also, so you don't have to paint over your original or new sender-to-tank mounting screws, either.

Of course, these block-off plate also works great when performing an electrolytic cleaning of the tank, since you really DON'T want to leave your sending unit in the tank when performing such a process!

HCP2738SET Aftermarket fuel sending unit BLOCK-OFF PLATE AND GASKET. Fits all XJ550 Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, XJ1100, and XS1100 Standard model tanks.
$ 24.95

HCP6371SET Aftermarket fuel sending unit BLOCK-OFF PLATE AND GASKET. Fits all XJ700 and XJ750-X tanks.
$ 19.95

HCP6373SET Aftermarket fuel sending unit BLOCK-OFF PLATE AND GASKET. Fits all 1984-85 FJ600, 1984 XJ750RL, and XJ900 tanks.
$ 19.95




Tack Rags:

These sticky, tacky towels, known as "tack cloth" or TACK RAGS in the painting industry, are used to gently wipe down all parts immediately prior to any primer, paint, or clear-coat application. Their tackiness grabs hold of and removes and tiny particles of dust or grit or what-ever, so that your paint doesn't encapsulate such debris. Much better than just blasting the parts with compressed air, as the compressed air sends the dust and grit up into the air, where it eventually settles back out----onto your soon-to-be-painted parts, or onto your freshly painted parts!

HCP11301 Aftermarket package of pre-spraying TACK RAGS, box of 12 is plenty enough to serve their purpose while repainting an entire bike.
$ 10.95



Finishing Papers:

cps2) As we've noted before, a top-quality "paint" job is really a top-quality "bodywork and surface-preparation" job. The proper supplies to help you achieve that goal includes these aftermarket high-quality WET-OR-DRY FINISHING SHEETS. Since these don't contain "sand", we really can't call them "sandpaper", but you get the idea. A large assortment of ultra-fine finishing paper is just the thing you'll need for prepping any painted surface for painting.


HCP8594 Aftermarket premium grade 400-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
$ 2.50

HCP8594SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 400-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 18.95


HCP8596 Aftermarket premium grade 600-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
$ 2.50

HCP8596SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 600-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 18.95


HCP8597 Aftermarket premium grade 800-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
$ 2.50

HCP8597SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 800-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 18.95


HCP8598 Aftermarket premium grade 1000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.50

HCP8598SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 10.95


HCP8599 Aftermarket premium grade 1200-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.95

HCP8599SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1200-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 14.95


HCP8600 Aftermarket premium grade 1500-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.95

HCP8600SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1500-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 14.95


HCP8601 Aftermarket premium grade 2000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.95

HCP8601SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 2000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 14.95



HCPSANDSET1 Your choice, mix-and-match, any 5 full-size sheets of 400-800 grit paper grades listed above.
$ 10.95

HCPSANDSET2 Your choice, mix-and-match, any 5 half-size sheets of 1000-2000 grit paper grades listed above.
$ 7.95



REVIEW TIME!: AEROSOL PAINTING TIPS AND TECHNIQUES TO GET EXCEPTIONAL RESULTS:

Although many of these points have been discussed elsewhere, we thought it would be best to summarize the major points into one area for your review. Your full understanding and appreciation of the importance of the points discussed below are vital to your performance as a painter and getting the results that are possible and which you desire to achieve, no matter which brand products you will be using!


PRODUCTS:

Naturally, you want to begin by purchasing quality aerosol paints. The better aerosols use a higher quality paint, will cover more quickly and evenly, and often feature a much more precise fan-spray (rather than a pin-point) pattern nozzle. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for, and this holds true for aerosols, too. Generally speaking, the more you pay for paint, the higher the quality and easier it will be to produce a professional result.

There is a reason why the $5 - $10 cans are so inexpensive. They will tend to be thin paints that will "run" very easily due to a very dilute mixture and a poor quality nozzle, and thus will not cover very well. You will then need additional coats to obtain the same coverage as you would realize with one pass of a more expensive, high-end brand. In the long run, this could mean more effort and thus more chances for failure with a similar expense as you would have had if you had just used a better aerosol in the first place.


PREPARATION:

The importance of proper preparation cannot be over-emphasized. This is the step most likely to be treated as not very necessary, yet, in reality, is the most critical to the quality of the end result.

Stripping the Existing Coating:

Remove the previous coating with a suitable Paint Remover (such as our HCP11194 Gorilla Stripper) or an abrasive cleaning disc or wire wheel, or by media blasting. Although there are many products advertised as allowing you to "paint over rust", we tend to feel that those are both temporary and second-class solutions. Rust and old paints should be completely removed before new primer is applied, if you want professional results.

Thoroughly clean the part with a proper solvent, such as the HCP10921 Deep Cleaner, or with repeated wipes of lacquer thinner or Acetone.


Painting Over An Existing Coating:

If the previous coating cannot be easily removed, clean a small area and apply the new finish over the old. Determine if any unfavorable reaction or undesired look has occurred.....and not just an "immediate" bad reaction, but after the new finish has had the time to completely dry and cure. If you can live with the results, make sure that the old paint is solid, and free of any dirt, silicone, and oil. Next, scuff the part with 320-grit and finer sandpaper to allow for proper adhesion of the new finish to the old.

Spot prime and fill any low spots (a chip or drop in the metal) and any part of the surface which may be bare. Sand with 320-grit paper to assure a smooth, even surface. Be sure to test the primer for compatibility with the surface you will be painting. Look for any unfavorable reaction such as wrinkling or lifting.



PRIMERS:

The application of a primer coat prior to the paint finish is recommended for most paints. Note that some high-heat engine paints do not require primer, but can benefit from it from a paint-adhesion perspective. However, the more paint you deposit on a high-heat surface, the more of an "insulating blanket" you are applying to the surface, which is not always the best idea.

Primers are designed to enhance both the color paint adhesion to the substrate and greatly increases the durability of the paint.


Priming Bare Metal Surface:

Remove any grease, wax, or oil contaminants from the surface to be painted with a quality pre-cleaner such as the HCP10921 Deep Cleaner, or via repeated wipes with lacquer thinner or Acetone.



PREPARING TO SPRAY:

Be sure you are working in a well-ventilated area. Safety comes before everything else!

Control the temperature and humidity of the area where you'll be painting, and the parts to be painted. It is generally best to apply aerosol paints at a room temperature of between 65 - 95 degrees Fahrenheit. The optimum humidity level to apply is below 50%. Painting in higher humidity can cause the paint to "blush", a condition caused when moisture in the air condenses on the paint as the paint is drying.

Read the application and usage instructions. They differ by product, and they are written for a reason! The amount of drying time, re-coating time, curing time, etc. can and will differ greatly between different brands of products or between different types of products (primer, paint, clear-coat, etc.). Failure to follow the proper prep and application instructions is a recipe for failure!

Shake the aerosol can thoroughly. Usually, one to two minutes of vigorous shaking is required to get the contents mixed well enough for applying. You'll know when the paint is optimized for application when the mixing ball inside the can begins to easily rattle while you are shaking the can. Again, read and follow the directions on the can!!

Test spray. Make sure the can sprays properly before you start applying the product to the parts to be painted. ALWAYS perform a "sprayout" on a test piece of a similar material to check for coverage, spray pattern, and color. Familiarize yourself with the spray characteristics of the product you are using; they can differ greatly between various manufacturer's offerings. Paint-to-solvent ratios, the type of product being sprayed, the spray nozzle pattern and features, and the internal can pressure will all result in different spray can performance.

Should the spray nozzle become clogged, do not attempt to unclog it with a needle. This will likely cause damage to the nozzle, and ruin the spray action. What can be done to solve this problem is to carefully remove the nozzle from the aerosol can, and soak it in a solvent. Lacquer thinners or acetone typically make good solvents for this purpose. This will restore the spray head to its original condition. Replace the nozzle using a twisting motion to avoid damage to the sealing O-ring.

TIP: save your old aerosol nozzles so that you have a selection from which to choose should you ever need a replacement.



APPLICATION:

Always have your work set at a height convenient for you. When spray painting, a clothes line or metal wire (coat hanger) works well and will make it easier to for you to attain complete and equal coverage of your parts.

Mask off any areas not to be coated. And not just on the part(s) being sprayed, but any other places in the work area where you do not want over-spray to settle upon.

Hold your aerosol can in an upright position whenever possible. Be sure the nozzle is facing the object to be painted, and not towards your face! Depress the nozzle only with the tip of your index finger......using any other part of the finger may put it in the way of the spray, affecting the spray's pattern. You should also maintain a proper distance between the aerosol can's nozzle and the object being coated-----this distance is typically 8" to 12".

Spray any recessed areas first. The use of delicate, short bursts often helps.

When coating the rest of the part, keep the nozzle parallel to the surface, using long, steady, even strokes. Keep the can equidistant from the part throughout each the process. Don't "arc" your stroke. Instead, move your entire arm from the shoulder.

Overlap coats to assure even color density. Overlap each pass by approximately 50% of the total width of the spray. In other words, with each pass, you are covering new surface with 50% of the height of the spray pattern, and the other half of the spray pattern is re-coating what the previous stroke painted.

And whatever you do, do not stop your stroke while in the middle of the part!. Keep a wet edge by beginning the job at one edge of the part. Spray horizontally to the other side. Begin at the top of the piece and with each pass of the spray, work toward the bottom of the piece.

TIP: a great way to practice your spray-painting technique is to paint a few sections of clear glass (you can normally get small "scrap" sections from a home-supply store fairly cheap). You will immediately be able to see whether you are being consistent, or hesitating, or applying incomplete or straight strokes across the surface. Also: remember to begin spraying (activate the nozzle) before your paint can moves over the "beginning edge" of the part being sprayed, and don't stop spraying (don't release the nozzle) until you are fully and completely clear of the "ending" edge of the part being sprayed.

Yes, that means that at the beginning and the end of every "pass", you are wasting paint, spraying into empty space (rather than on the part itself). But this technique prevents the a too-light, a too-heavy, or a "splattered" build-up of paint at the outer edges of the part being painted, typical results if you don't fully and completely "exit" the outer edges of the part being painted.



TAKE CARE OF YOUR AEROSOL CANS:

And they will then take care of you! Follow these steps when you are finished painting.

Invert the aerosol can, and spray it in a safe direction (into a trash can, for example) until there is no more paint spraying from the can, just air. This action serves to clean the nozzle of any paint residue which will dry and cause you problems (splatter, spatter, non-uniform paint dispersion thru the nozzle, etc.) the next time you need the can.

In fact, it's not a bad idea to remove the can nozzle and let it soak in lacquer thinner or acetone to leach out any accumulated paint product, so the next to you use the can the delivery system is "like new".

For maximum shelf life, store all aerosol cans right side up in a warm, dry area. An environment with a temperature of anywhere from 55 - 85 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal.

Caution! If water-based aerosol products are allowed to freeze, they may be ruined.



COMMON SPRAY PAINTING PROBLEMS, CAUSES, and SOLUTIONS:

Whether using an aerosol can, an HVLP system, or compressed air and a spray gun, the best way to apply paint is to spray it. But sometimes the final finish doesn't come out quite perfectly. Below are eight common problems, what causes them, and how to repair the finish.


Problem: Dry Spray (dry paint dust settling over previously painted areas)
Causes: The paint is drying too quickly; the work piece too large to paint with an aerosol; the paint application is too slow; or the spray can is too far from surface.
Solution: Allow the paint to fully dry, then sand with a fine grit sandpaper followed by compounding and polishing, or refinish as required. Basically: start over!


Problem: Spitting or splatter: little or no paint coming from nozzle.
Causes: The paint can nozzle is obstructed or clogged; or the internal valve is clogged.
Solution: Remove the nozzle from the can and put several drops of lacquer thinner in the valve. Do not poke or pick at the valve. Soak the nozzle in lacquer thinner for a few seconds and then replace the nozzle in can with a slight twisting motion. Do not push nozzle down into can.


Problem: Runs or sags (coating does not adhere uniformly to the surface being painted)
Causes: Paint drying too slowly; sprayed over wax, oil, or grease; finishing coats too heavy; paint can or work surface too hot or too cold.
Solution: If wet: use camel hair brush and brush out the sag and re-coat surface. If dry: sand with fine grit paper, compound & polish; or refinish.


Problem: Blistering, bubbling, or a pitted or swollen appearance.
Causes: Trapped solvents are "bubbling" up through the paint; painting over dirt, grease, or moisture; rust under the surface.
Solution: Allow the paint to fully dry, then sand down and refinish; if necessary, sand down to bare metal. Ensure surface is completely clean before repainting. Basically: start over!


Problem: "Orange Peel"---the painted surface looks like the skin of an orange.
Causes: The paint can is being held too far away from the surface; or the shop temperature is too high (for best results, apply between 65F and 95F); or the spray nozzle is clogged.
Solution: Sand with a grit sandpaper (600 or finer) & use a fine compound to rub out orange peel. If that fails, remove paint and refinish. Basically: start over!


Problem: "Mottled" surface---an uneven appearance (generally seen in metallic paints).
Causes: The paint can was not shaken enough; the paint can was held too close to surface; or the painted surface was too hot or too cold.
Solution: Re-spray as required using a swirling or rotating motion while spraying to deposit the metallic particles evenly on the surface.


Problem: "Fish Eyes": small crater-like blemishes in the finish.
Causes: Silicone, wax, or grease contamination on the surface; an improperly cleaned work piece.
Solution: If paint is still wet: wash off paint. Thoroughly clean surface using the HCP10921 Deep Cleaner or with lacquer thinner or acetone. Repaint surface. Basically: start over!


Problem: Lifting or wrinkling of the paint, or a swelling or wet film.
Causes: Improper drying of the previous coat. Or, the application of non-compatible products, such as applying lacquer over enamels.
Solution: The paint must be removed and the surface re-sprayed. Check content of top coat and substrate coatings or primers before reapplying paint to make sure they are compatible with each other. Basically: start over!


For further insight and advice, here is a pretty good paint forum to review and learn from:

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/shoptal ... =forum&c=1


And here's a great pictorial step-by-step guide to refinish your valve cover (and other engine covers), and get that "like-new" look again:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/22125

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