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- FRONT BRAKE LINES SAFETY ALERT!:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/41400
- FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM SAFETY ALERT!:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/41403
- REAR DRUM BRAKES SAFETY ALERT!:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/15874
and the how-to guide for replacing the rear brake shoes:
http://www.xj4ever.com/rear drum brakes.pdf
and
- FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM UPGRADE:
Lookin' good and stopping power:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/16019
- BRAKE LINE INSTALLATION:
http://www.xj4ever.com/ss brake line install.pdf
- BRAKE PEDAL INSTALLATION:
NOTE: the rear brake pedal and it's mating splined pivot shaft have alignment marks cast in (the pedal) and punched into (the end of the pivot shaft) to allow you to set the installed pedal height to the factory-recommended position:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/help-what-are-these-bolts.82812/#post-499455
- FRONT SINGLE-TO-DUAL DISC BRAKE CONVERSION:
Thinking of converting a single front disc (XJ550's, XJ650 Maxim or Midnight Maxim) bike to dual front discs? It takes more than you first might imagine.....since you'll need to have the forks necessary to accept the extra caliper that is needed........and that is where the fun begins! For the XJ550 Maxim and XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, it is usually simpler to swap out an entire front end from a XJ750 Maxim model to do a proper conversion:
XJ550 Seca upgrade to dual discs:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/14588
XJ550 Maxim and XJ650 Maxim/Midnight Maxim upgrade to dual discs:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/14368
- REAR DRUM-TO-DISC BRAKE CONVERSION:
A lot of effort for a cool look, but don't expect that much additional stopping power (front brakes do 80% of the braking, and you really don't want to be locking up the rear wheel during panic stops!.......
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/15759
- CALIPER REBUILDING:
But, one thing that the service manuals don't mention is that after all these years of abuse (and probably neglect), that the recessed fluid and dust seal ring lands in the caliper body have probably accumulated an awful lot of built-up rubber gunk and what-not, and unless you get those ring lands zestfully clean and completely free of all of the built-up junk, your new piston seals will not seat properly and will not seal properly (or, will cause the piston to jam within the bore as it is pushed "sideways" by the bulging, uneven rubber seals)....please review the pictures and procedures on the 2nd page:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/12529
A special how-to on removing frozen brake caliper pistons on dual-piston models (FJ600, XJ700, XJ750-X, XJ750RL, and XJ900 models):
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/40059
and the rebuilding of these style dual-piston calipers:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1985-86-xj700-caliper-rebuild.118121
- MASTER CYLINDER REBUILDING:
Identification:
NOTE: before ordering your master cylinder rebuild parts, please take a moment to inspect and confirm that your bike does indeed have a factory original (for your model) master cylinder on it. After all these years….and so many previous owners…...there’s no telling what’s resting up there on your handlebars, and since rebuild parts are quite specific designed to work only with a particular style master cylinder ----- well, it’s best to be safe than sorry!
So here are the clues for original master cylinder identification:
XJ550 all North American models: the cylinder body will have the size 1/2 and the word NISSIN cast into it along the larger rear facing side of the cylinder body. Original (1981-83) cylinders will have the word NISSIN in all capital, block-style letters, while later “replacement” cylinders will have the word NISSIN appear as a stylized semi-script, with the two “s” letters layered on top of each other. Both types will accept all of the parts that we have listed below as fitting original master cylinders.
XJ550 non-North American models (dual-disc bikes): the cylinder body will have the word NISSIN cast into it along the larger rear facing side of the cylinder body, and have the size 5/8 cast into the forward face of the cylinder body just to the left of the fluid outlet port (where the brake line attaches).
FJ600 and XJ900 F, N, and FN models: the cylinder body will have the size 5/8 cast into large front face side of the cylinder body just above the fluid outlet port (where the brake line attaches), and the manufacturer name does not appear anywhere on the cylinder body.
XJ600 Seca II models: the cylinder body will have the size 14 (meaning a 14mm bore) cast into large front face side of the cylinder body, and the manufacturer name does not appear anywhere on the cylinder body.
XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim North American models (single-disc): the cylinder body will have the size 14 (meaning a 14mm bore) and the word NISSIN cast into it along the rear face of the piston bore.
XJ650 non-North American (dual disc) models, XJ650RJ Seca, all XJ700, XJ750-X, XJ750RL, and XJ900RK and RL models: the cylinder body will have the word NISSIN cast into it along the larger rear facing side of the cylinder body, and have the size 5/8 cast into the forward face of the cylinder body just to the left of the fluid outlet port (where the brake line attaches).
XJ650 Turbo, 1982-83 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and all XJ750 Police models: the cylinder body will have the size 5/8 cast into it along the larger rear facing side of the cylinder body, and the word NISSIN does not appear anywhere on the cylinder body. The 1982 XJ750 Maxim cylinders have a small (1/4” diameter) hole in the base of the reservoir where the fluid level sensor wires exit the inside of the reservoir.
XJ750 Seca and all XJ750 Euro models: ]: the long skinny cylinder body will have the size 11/16 (meaning a 17.5mm bore) cast into it along on side the piston bore, and the word NISSIN does not appear anywhere on the cylinder body. A good image of this type cylinder can be seen at: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/new-member-need-help-with-brakes.78654/#post-492845
XJ1100 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models: the cylinder body will have the size 14 (meaning a 14mm bore) cast into it along the rear face of the piston bore, and the word NISSIN does not appear anywhere on the cylinder body. The bottom of the reservoir has a small (1/4” diameter) hole in where the fluid level sensor wires exit the inside of the reservoir.
If your master cylinder does not match the above descriptions, then we may not be able to assist you with rebuild parts for it…..there are an incredible number of both original and aftermarket master cylinders that were/are available, they all look somewhat the same, and they all may or may not accept nor function properly (or at all!) with component intended for use with the original master cylinder used on your bike!
A pictorial overview of the master cylinder rebuild process can be observed at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/18377
and
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116337-Clutch-Hydraulic-Rebuild-Tutorial
and
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1985-86-xj700-caliper-rebuild.118121/page-2
Here's a good image of a correctly set-up piston, with all of the seal and spring orientation done properly:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/48360
And here's a helpful guide to doing it a rear master cylinder:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threa...982-xj1100-maxim-rear-master-cyclinder.106588
NOTE1: be sure you very carefully clean and inspect your used, original master cylinder for any damage and rebuildability. If the pressed-in steel piston bore is badly scarred or pitted-rusted, then it must be honed to a silky-smooth finish before installing new components. If pits or scratches are too deep to be removed, it is best to obtain a replacement master cylinder (new or used) rather than to try to rebuild a damaged original. Remember, your life literally depends on your brakes....not always in day-to-day riding, but when it counts the most, in an emergency situation; and those always happen in the blink of an eye, and without prior warning.....
NOTE2: All original Yamaha front master cylinders have an extremely tiny "blow back" hole (actually a pressure release return passage) in the center of the bottom of the reservoir floor that must be clear and un-blocked in order for your master cylinder to function properly----if this hole is plugged, it will prevent the calipers from fully releasing when the brakes are NOT being applied, causing the brakes to always be slightly engaged. Brake system "dragging" will result, as well as brake rotor over-heating and warpage after a period of time.
This tiny hole is located within an area that is best described as what appears to be the beginning of a drilled hole that was "never completely drilled through" (this will make sense when you actually view the floor of the reservoir). In the very center of such area is this pressure release passage, and it takes about 1-2 un-stranded strands of wire to poke through this hole and remove any debris or gunk. This hole is not the much larger reservoir-to-piston chamber fluid transfer hole, which is huge compared to this pressure-relief passage. The pressure relief passage hole is normally just to the "side" or "behind" the larger (1mm diameter) fluid transfer hole, and "in line" with the centerline of the piston chamber, but "behind" the fluid transfer hole, towards the brake hand lever side of the master cylinder.
When rebuilding your master cylinder, make sure that this tiny relief passage is free and clear! Failure to clean this passage fully is one of the major over-looked "gotch-ya!" situations that arise when rebuilding your master cylinder.
A good picture of this relief port on the conventional (handlebar-mounted) master cylinders can be seen at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/12529
while XJ750 Seca owners will have to look here:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/14836
Fluid Sight Window Replacement:
http://www.xj4ever.com/choosing a sight glass.pdf
and
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1985-86-xj700-caliper-rebuild.118121/page-2
- BRAKE FLUID:
Which type should you use? Good question! Here's a bit of an answer:
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/brake_fluid.html
NOTE: Yamaha specifies the use of DOT #3 brake fluid for all XJ models, but of course, that recommendation was made almost 25 years ago.........
- THE BLEEDING EDGE:
The master cylinders on these bikes push a very small amount of fluid with each hand stroke, and thus bleeding an empty system can be a long, time-consuming chore----but, on the positive side, it's a really great way to build up a really strong, firm, manly handshake and grip. But there's other ways and times to accomplish that, so when all you want to do is bleed your brakes, then there's nothing better than these labor-saving tools.
NOTE: hand-bleeding a dry system...such as when you change brake lines, or have rebuilt the master cylinder or calipers....is next to impossible to do without the use of a pressure or vacuum system. It will take you hours to do by hand. With a vacuum bleeder system (such as a Mity Vac), you'll do it in about 10 minutes, tops.
Hints:
a) Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the reservoir when using these tools!
b) Make sure that your caliper bleeder screws are clean and pass fluid freely (and continue to do so once the system is evacuated) as old debris in your brake system settles down to the lowest point in the system (the caliper reservoir) and gets sucked into the bleeder screw during bleeding, this clogging the system and making it impossible to bleed.
c) Finally, here's one neat trick to get a truly professional, world-class level of brake bleeding accomplished: after you "finish" your final bleeding cycle, turn the forks so that the caliper you are bleeding is on the high side. Now do one final bleeding to rid the system of the last few tiny bubbles that tend to hide in the top of the caliper when the front wheel is straight ahead. The reason for this is: if you look at where the bleeder screw is on the caliper body, it is placed just slightly below the very top arc of the piston bore in the caliper. Turning the front wheel gets the internal bleeder screw port above this arc, and allows you to get all that pesky air out of your system!
And here are some other great tips for making this job easier:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-help-moved-from-dyi.111186
http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/brake-bleeding-2-days-in-no-results.27670
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-fyi.110663
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/another-xj750-seca-brake-bleed.103363
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/86-xj700-brake-bleed-issue-resolved.118163
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/86-xj700s-brake-bleed.118135
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-brakes.117886
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/this-brake-is-refusing-to-bleed.117322
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-xj750-seca-brakes.115517
- BRAKE SWITCH REPLACEMENT:
How do you get that little switch out of the master cylinder (or clutch lever perch)?:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/38144