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SECTION C:
FUEL SYSTEM ITEMS:
--Petcocks & Parts
AUTOMATIC PETCOCKS AND MANUAL FUEL VALVES:
What you need to keep the fuel flowing!
AUTOMATIC (VACUUM-OPERATED) FUEL PETCOCKS:
fp16) OEM Yamaha replacement fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCKS. Brand new unit comes complete with the internal filter. These units fit and looks "somewhat" the same as an original XJ-series petcock, but it is a completely new unit and no component (internal) parts will interchange between an original petcock and these units. Surprisingly, these units are still made by the Taiyo Giken Company, who supplied the original petcocks on the XJ era bikes....
NOTE: the HCP625 petcock features a much “taller” primary fuel inlet filter than the stock petcocks, and as such, will require the use of the RES (Reserve) setting on the petcock selector much sooner than on original petcocks (at the approximately 60% empty level, rather than the stock almost-80% empty level). This issue can be solved by cutting a portion of the “straw” section (approximately 20mm) and the use of a “joiner” tube to re-attach the two section back together again. The joiner tube is included in the HCP625KIT listed below.
The HCP626 petcock already has a shorter primary fuel inlet filter installed, but as noted in its description, it is a tight or almost-impossible fit on “Seca” model fuel tanks (the vacuum fitting interferes with the #1 carb hat).
HCP626 OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK. The vacuum and fuel outlet port nipples point straight out towards the back of the bike (parallel to the front-to-back centerline of the bike). This is the most useful orientation for these outlet pipes, and the same as on original XJ petcocks. . Includes non-replaceable in-tank "straw" style filters and the petcock-to-tank sealing o-ring. Fits all XJ550, FJ600, XJ650 (except Turbo), and all 1981-83 XJ750 models. HOWEVER, this petcock is a bit "taller" than the original Yamaha petcocks, and on some models the dropped location of the vacuum port nipple on this petcock may cause clearance problems with the top of the carb hats (particularly on Seca model gas tanks, which tend to have a deeper "drop" on their bottom edge than the Maxim tanks). NOTE: petcock mounting screws and their washers are NOT included!
$ 189.95
HCP626KIT OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK KIT, contains the HCP626 petcock and a pair of mounting screws and their sealing washers.
$ 199.95
HCP625 OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK. The vacuum outlet port nipple points directly out towards the back of the bike, while the fuel outlet port nipple faces backwards and at a 45-degree angle outwards. This is a slightly odd orientation, but it does allow for slightly more space for the fuel line to be routed clear of obstructions, especially when using an aftermarket in-line fuel filter. Includes non-replaceable in-tank "straw" style filters and the petcock-to-tank sealing o-ring. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), and 1981-83 XJ750 models. This style replacement petcock has plenty of vacuum nipple clearance on both styles of original tanks, Seca and Maxim, for the models listed above. NOTE: petcock mounting screws and their washers are NOT included!
$ 137.95
HCP625KIT OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK KIT, contains the HCP625 petcock, a pair of mounting screws and their sealing washers, and a short section of “joiner” hose” that allows you to easily reduce the height of the primary fuel inlet straw filter.
$ 149.95
HCP19464 OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK. Includes the non-replaceable in-tank "straw" style filters and the petcock-to-tank sealing o-ring. Fits all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models. NOTE: selector thumb lever and its mounting screw, petcock mounting screws, and the mounting screw sealing washers are NOT included and should be ordered separate.
$ 109.95
HCP627 OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK. The fuel inlet and outlet port nipples point directly out towards the back of the bike and tilted upwards at a 45-degree angle. Includes non-replaceable in-tank "straw" style filters and the petcock-to-tank sealing o-ring. Fits all XJ650 Turbo and XJ750-D models. NOTE: petcock mounting screws and their washers are NOT included!
$ 309.95
HCP628 OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK. The vacuum port nipple points directly out towards the back of the bike (rather than being angled as the original) and the fuel inlet port nipple is tilted upwards at about a 45-degree angle and is NOT angled towards the center of the bike (as original), nor is the fuel inlet nipple as long as on an original petcock. Surprisingly, besides these minor differences, these petcocks look exactly the originals. Also, the changed inlet pipe orientation results in being able to install the rear petcock-to-tank mounting screw easily---on original petcocks, you basically have to almost hacksaw the screw off to remove/replace it or the fiber sealing washer! (a wonderful feat of factory engineering!). Includes the in-tank filter and the petcock-to-tank sealing o-ring. Fits all XJ700, XJ750-X, XJ750RL, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. NOTE: petcock mounting screws and their washers are NOT included!
$ 219.95
HCP628KIT OEM fuel AUTOMATIC PETCOCK KIT, contains the HCP628 petcock and a pair of mounting screws and their sealing washers.
$ 229.95
Mounting Hardware for Automatic Petcocks:
HCP118 OEM petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, grey-phosphate coated alloy steel, panhead, phillips drive. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. NOTE: Midnight Maxim models originally used the black screw. Use 2 screws per petcock, each:
$ 2.95
HCP2922 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, bright zinc-plated steel with phillips-drive, panhead design. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. Use 2 screw per petcock, each:
$ 1.50
HCP21362 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, bright 18/8 stainless steel with phillips-drive, panhead design. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. Use 2 screw per petcock, each:
$ 1.50
HCP6714 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, button head hex-drive, 18-8 stainless steel, bright finish. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. Use 2 screw per petcock, each:
$ 1.50
HCP6715 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, socket head, hex-drive, black-oxide coated alloy steel. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. Use 2 screw per petcock, each:
$ 1.75
HCP6716 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, socket head, hex-drive, 18-8 stainless steel, bright finish. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. Use 2 screw per petcock, each:
$ 1.95
HCP2923 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, bright 18-8 stainless steel with phillips-drive, panhead design. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. NOTE: these screws are slightly longer (2mm) than stock but it makes no difference in fit and function. Use 2 screw per petcock, each:
$ 1.95
HCP2924 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, black-oxide coated 18-8 stainless steel with phillips-drive, pan-headed design. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, XJ650, XJ750, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. NOTE: these screws are slightly longer (2mm) than stock but it makes no difference in fit and function. Use 2 screw per petcock, each:
$ 1.95
HCP2341 OEM petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, alloy steel, phillips-drive panhead screw with a black finish (original had a bright finish). Fits all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, XJ700, XJ750-X, XJ750RL, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. NOTE: the original petcock screw has an integral flanged washer under the head, and this flanged head makes it VERY hard to remove, as the petcock body and the fuel outlet port "traps" the flanged washer when trying to remove the screw. These replacement tank screws HAVE NO FLANGED WASHER ATTACHED, so it "fits" onto the petcock body much easier, while still providing the sealing surface necessary. Use 2 per petcock, each:
$ 3.95
HCP21351SET2 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW, alloy steel, phillips-drive panhead screw with a bright finish (as original) and a flanged head. Fits all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, XJ700, XJ750-X, XJ750RL, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. NOTE: the original petcock screw has an integral flanged washer under the head, and this flanged head makes it VERY hard to remove, as the petcock body and the fuel outlet port "traps" the flanged washer when trying to remove the screw. This set of 2 screws uses separate flat washers (included) to achieve the same fit, but makes installation and removal much easier. note: you should still use the HCP2743 or HCP947 sealing washers listed below for a leak-proof seal. Use 1 set per petcock:
$ 6.95
HCP2743 OEM petcock-to-tank mounting screw SEALING WASHER. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. Use 2 gaskets per petcock, each:
$ 3.95
HCP947 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank mounting screw SEALING WASHER. Fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, XJ1100, and XS1100 standard models. Use 2 gaskets per petcock, each:
$ 2.50
TANK-MOUNTED MANUAL FUEL VALVE:
fp17) Aftermarket complete MANUAL ON-OFF-RESERVE FUEL VALVE KITS. Not really a "petcock" in the XJ sense of the word. Yamaha designed their petcocks to be a very clever "automatic" fuel supply valve, meaning it has to have engine vacuum for it to function. Great idea (when it works) because it allows us to basically "set it and forget it". Bad news is that when the seals go bad, or as age wears the internal components, it can become a really bad idea, since it will leak fuel into the carbs when it's not supposed to, leading to flooded carbs, fuel in the crankcase, spun bearings, etc.
These MANUAL FUEL VALVES are either ON (in either the standard "ON" or the "RES"erve positions) or OFF. It doesn't depend on engine vacuum, just gravity. So it won't ever leak or pass fuel in the OFF position. That's the good news.....
The bad news is that you have to remember to turn it on or off manually (as in every time you start your bike up or shut it down) or, instead of blaming a faulty petcock for your resultant problems, you'll have to blame yourself! But we include a keyring tag with each valve to serve as a reminder of this critical task.
Once installed, these units will fit and look similar to an original XJ-series petcock. You will need to remove your petcock vacuum line from the #2 or #3 intake manifold boot nipple and replace it with a rubber block-off cap plug. These fuel valves use the same size fuel line as original.
XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), 1981-83 XJ750, XJ1100, and all 1979-81 XS1100 Special models:
HCP20971 OEM ON-OFF MANUAL FUEL VALVE KIT, contains a brand-new replacement fuel valve which will fit all XJ650RJ Seca and XJ1100 models. Includes the fuel valve, attaching hardware, filters, and an intake manifold vac port cap and clamp (to block off the now-unused intake manifold port). Does NOT require fuel tank opening enlargement! NOTE: requires two units for use on XJ1100 and XS1100 Special and Midnight Special models, and the fuel outlet port will be pointing "forward" when installed on the right side fuel tank outlet. Also note that when using these fuel valves on XJ1100 and XS1100 models, the vacuum-operated fuel distribution “octopus” can be retained (and used as a functioning item) or it can be completely eliminated from the fuel distribution system by running the fuel output directly to the carb inlet t-fitting. The “octopus” served only as an “on-or-off” valve, which was not present on the original tank-mounted valves. These aftermarket valves have the on/off function built into the valve itself. Each:
$ 119.95
HCP20972 OEM ON-OFF MANUAL FUEL VALVE KIT, contains a brand-new replacement fuel valve which will fit all XJ550 models, all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and all 1981-83 XJ750 models. Includes the fuel valve, spacer plate, attaching hardware, filters, and an intake manifold vac port cap and clamp (to block off the now-unused intake manifold port). Does NOT require fuel tank opening enlargement! Each:
$ 119.95
XJ700, XJ750RL, XJ750-X, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models:
HCP15606 Aftermarket ON-OFF MANUAL FUEL VALVE KIT, contains a brand-new replacement fuel valve which will fit all XJ700, XJ750-X, XJ750RL, and XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models. Includes the fuel valve, attaching hardware, filters, and an intake manifold vac port cap and clamp (to block off the now-unused intake manifold port). Does NOT require fuel tank opening enlargement!
$ 139.95
XS1100 Standard models:
HCP23900LH Aftermarket ON-OFF MANUAL FUEL VALVE KIT, contains a brand-new replacement fuel valve which will fit all 1978-81 XS1100 Standard (only) models on the left side. Includes the fuel valve, attaching hardware, filters, and an intake manifold vac port cap and clamp (to block off the now-unused intake manifold port). Does NOT require fuel tank opening enlargement!
$ 124.95
HCP23900RH Aftermarket ON-OFF FUEL MANUAL VALVE KIT, contains a brand-new replacement fuel valve which will fit all 1978-81 XS1100 Standard (only) models on the right side. Includes the fuel valve, attaching hardware, filters, and an intake manifold vac port cap and clamp (to block off the now-unused intake manifold port). Does NOT require fuel tank opening enlargement!
$ 124.95
HCP23900SET Aftermarket ON-OFF MANUAL FUEL VALVE KITS, contains a pair of brand-new replacement fuel valves which will fit all 1978-81 XS1100 Standard (only) models. Includes one each of the left and right side fuel valves, all attaching hardware, filters, and an intake manifold vac port cap and clamp (to block off the now-unused intake manifold port). Does NOT require fuel tank opening enlargement!
$ 229.95
Accessory and Replacement Parts for On-Off Manual Fuel Valves:
HCP231N Aftermarket on/off fuel valve MOUNTING SCREW, pan-headed phillips drive, 18.8 stainless steel. For use with the HCP20971 on/off manual fuel valve only. Uses 2 per valve. Each:
$ 1.95
HCP3115 Aftermarket on/off fuel valve MOUNTING SCREW, pan-headed phillips drive, 18/8 stainless steel. For use with the HCP20972 on/off manual fuel valve only. Uses 2 per valve. Each:
$ 1.95
HCP2341 OEM petcock-to-tank MOUNTING SCREW. Fits the HCP15606, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves. Use 2 per valve, each:
$ 3.95
HCP2743 OEM petcock-to-tank mounting screw SEALING WASHER. Fits the aftermarket HCP15606, HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves. Use 2 gaskets per petcock, each:
$ 3.95
HCP947 Aftermarket petcock-to-tank mounting screw SEALING WASHER. Fits the aftermarket HCP15606, HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves. Use 2 gaskets per petcock, each:
$ 2.50
HCP15548 OEM FUEL VALVE-TO-TANK O-RING. Use with 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models, the HCP625 and HCP626 replacement petcocks, and the HCP20971 and HCP20972 on-off fuel valves. Correct molded oval seal with cross-bars fits and seals correctly.
$ 6.95
HCP6190 Aftermarket FUEL VALVE-TO-TANK O-RING. Use with 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models, the HCP625 and HCP626 replacement petcocks, and the HCP20971 and HCP20972 on-off fuel valves. Correct molded oval seal with cross-bars fits and seals correctly.
$ 4.95
HCP23720 Aftermarket FUEL VALVE-TO-TANK O-RING. This is the o-ring on top of the fuel valve that seals it to the bottom of the tank. Fits the aftermarket HCP15606, HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves.
$ 7.95
HCP15547 OEM fuel valve SELECTOR LEVER O-RING, for use with the HCP20971 and HCP20972 manual fuel valves.
$ 4.95
HCP27119 Aftermarket fuel valve SELECTOR LEVER O-RING, for use with the HCP20971 and HCP20972 manual fuel valves.
$ 2.95
HCP104 OEM petcock FACEPLATE MOUNTING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive. Use with the HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP15606 fuel valves and the HCP625 and HCP626 replacement petcocks, use 2 per faceplate, each:
$ 2.95
HCP2907 Aftermarket petcock FACEPLATE MOUNTING SCREW, zinc-plated alloy steel phillips-drive, panhead screw. Use with the HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP15606, HCP23900LH, HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves and the HCP625 and HCP626 replacement petcocks. Use 2 per faceplate, each:
$ 1.50
HCP105 Aftermarket petcock FACEPLATE MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel phillips-drive, panhead screw. Use with the HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP15606, HCP23900LH, HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves and the HCP625 and HCP626 replacement petcocks. Use 2 per faceplate, each:
$ 2.50
HCP2908 Aftermarket petcock FACEPLATE MOUNTING SCREW, black-oxide coated steel phillips-drive, panhead screw. Use with the HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP15606, HCP23900LH, HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves and the HCP625 and HCP626 replacement petcocks. Use 2 per faceplate, each:
$ 1.50
HCP15546 OEM replacement rubber FUEL DISTRIBUTION CONTROL VALVE, for use with the HCP20971 and HCP20972 fuel valves, all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models, and the HCP626 petcock. Located behind the selector lever, over time this thin rubber valve wears out and can be replaced to restore like-new operation of the fuel valve.
$ 14.95
HCP15477 Aftermarket replacement rubber FUEL DISTRIBUTION CONTROL VALVE, for use with the HCP20971 and HCP20972 fuel valves, all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models, and the HCP626 petcock. Located behind the selector lever, over time this thin rubber valve wears out and can be replaced to restore like-new operation of the fuel valve.
$ 12.95
HCP23723 Aftermarket replacement rubber FUEL DISTRIBUTION CONTROL VALVE, for use with the HCP15606, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH manual on/off fuel valves. Located behind the selector lever, over time this thin rubber valve wears out and can be replaced to restore like-new operation of the fuel valve.
$ 13.95
HCP107 OEM selector lever WAVE WASHER. Fits all original XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, XJ650 (except Turbo), 1981-83 XJ750 petcocks, all XJ1100 and all XS1100 Special/Midnight Special petcocks, the HCP626 petcock, and the replacement HCP20971 and HCP20972 on/off manual fuel valves.
$ 5.95
HCP23722 Aftermarket selector lever WAVE WASHER, for use with the HCP15606, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves.
$ 8.95
HCP23719 Aftermarket fuel valve drain screw GASKET, red fiber washer / gasket for use with the HCP15606, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves.
$ 4.95
HCP23717 Aftermarket fuel valve outlet port brass nipple GASKET, red fiber washer / gasket for use with the HCP15606, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves.
$ 4.95
HCP23895 Aftermarket fuel valve rear cover plate GASKET. For use with the HCP15606, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves.
$ 9.95
HCP23898 Aftermarket FUEL VALVE STANDARD REBUILD KIT contains all the basic items you'll need to overhaul our HCP20971 or HCP20972 fuel valve: the selector lever wave washer and distribution valve, a pair of mounting bolt sealing washers, and a petcock-to-tank mounting o-ring. Fits the HCP20971 and HCP20972 aftermarket on/off fuel valve only. NOTE: petcock mounting screws, faceplate screws, and fuel filters are NOT included in this kit and must be ordered separately if desired.
$ 29.95
HCP23897 Aftermarket FUEL VALVE STANDARD REBUILD KIT contains all the basic items you'll need to overhaul our HCP15606 fuel valve: the selector lever wave washer and distribution valve, a rear cover plate gasket, the drain screw washer gasket, a pair of mounting bolt sealing washers, and a petcock-to-tank mounting o-ring. Fits the aftermarket HCP15606, HCP23900LH, and the HCP23900RH on/off manual fuel valves only. NOTE: petcock mounting screws, faceplate screws, fuel filters, and fuel outlet port nipple gasket are NOT included in this kit and must be ordered separately if desired.
$ 39.95
fl4) OEM Yamaha and aftermarket petcock IN-TANK FUEL FILTERS are your first defense against crud and grit getting into your carbs and causing problems with worn float needle valves and/or carb flooding.
HCP23713 Aftermarket replacement mesh FUEL FILTERS, will fit (with a bit of work) our HCP625, HCP626, HCP20971, HCP20972, HCP15606, HCP23900LH, HCP23900RH, original XJ650 Turbo petcocks, and the 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II petcocks in both inlet positions, but: on the "reserve" (shorter) position, you must save and re-use the short base "bushing" of the original filter, as it is the proper size to fit into the machined opening in the petcock body. The replacement straw filter will then fit snugly into this bushing. On the main fuel plastic standpipe, you will also need to save and re-use the short base "bushing" of the original filter, or you use the included 1/4" ID hose "coupler" to secure the filter to the metal pipe. Set of 2 filters:
$ 22.95
im2) OEM and aftermarket intake manifold VACUUM PORT PLUG CAPS & PINCH CLAMPS: these are the EPDM rubber caps and their associated spring pinch-clamps that fit over the brass vacuum nipple port on each intake manifold.
Stock configurations (except for XJ650 Turbo) use three (3) caps per bike, on the brass intake manifold ports (the #2 intake manifold on XJ550 models, and the #3 intake manifold vacuum port on most other models, which has a rubber line on it that goes to the petcock). XJ650 Turbo models use 4 of these caps, on all four intake manifold vacuum ports. If you substitute a non-vacuum operated petcock like the HCP630 fuel valve below, then you'll also need an extra cap for the port previously occupied by the petcock vacuum hose.
- The following original and aftermarket vacuum port plug caps fit all XJ-series models in all intake manifolds positions (EXCEPT for the XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, which uses this style plug on the #2 intake manifold only and the HCP8545 plug caps on the #1 and #4 intake manifolds).
HCP541 OEM intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAP, requires the use of the HCP542 spring-clamp listed below. Each:
$ 5.95
HCP541SET3 OEM intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAPS, set of 3:
$ 16.95
HCP541SET4 OEM intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAPS, set of 4:
$ 21.95
HCP81 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAP, requires the use of the HCP542 spring-clamp listed below. Each:
$ 4.95
HCP81SET3 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAPS, set of 3:
$ 12.95
HCP81SET4 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAPS, set of 4:
$ 17.95
HCP2731 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAP, does NOT require the use of the HCP542 spring-clamp listed below, as this plug is much tighter than the original and is self-sealing. NOTE: it is recommended that these caps be lubricated with silicone grease before installation, as they are so tight that removal becomes quite difficult without it, and you will likely break the head off the cap when trying to remove them from the vacuum port! Each:
$ 2.95
HCP2731SET3 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAPS, set of 3:
$ 7.95
HCP2731SET4 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAPS, set of 4:
$ 9.95
- The following original vacuum port plug cap fits all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, on the #1 and #4 intake manifolds only:
HCP8545 OEM intake manifold vacuum port PLUG CAP, requires the use of the HCP542 spring-clamp listed below. Each:
$ 16.95
HCP542 OEM intake manifold vacuum port plug cap BAND CLAMP, 3-prong rubber-fingered spring clamp used to retain either the HCP541, HCP8545, or the HCP81 port plugs to the brass port nipple. NOTE: not needed and does not fit the aftermarket HCP2731 port plug! Originally, the Midnight Maxim models used an all-black versions of this clamp, which is no longer available, but this zinc-plated version fits those models, too. Each:
$ 4.95
HCP542SET3 OEM intake manifold vacuum port plug cap BAND CLAMPS, set of 3:
$ 13.95
HCP542SET4 OEM intake manifold vacuum port plug cap BAND CLAMPS, set of 4:
$ 16.95
HCP24883 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port plug cap BAND CLAMP, 3-prong rubber-fingered spring clamp used to retain either the HCP541, HCP8545, or the HCP81 port plugs to the brass port nipple. NOTE: not needed and does not fit the aftermarket HCP2731 port plug! Originally, the Midnight Maxim models used an all-black versions of this clamp, which is no longer available, but this zinc-plated version fits those models, too. Can be used to replace original clamp HCP542 above. Each:
$ 2.95
HCP24883SET3 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port plug cap BAND CLAMPS, set of 3:
$ 5.75
HCP24883SET4 Aftermarket intake manifold vacuum port plug cap BAND CLAMPS, set of 4:
$ 9.95
AFTERMARKET IN-LINE ON-OFF FUEL VALVE:
rp3) Aftermarket mini in-line FUEL ON-OFF VALVE. This 1/4" inlet/outlet fuel shutoff ball valve is machined from high-quality zinc-plated aluminum, and provides a fail-safe solution for leaky petcocks. Small size allows it to easily fit under the gas tank, within the petcock-to-carb fuel line. Lever handle can be set to full on or full off position. The best solution is to repair or replace a leaky petcock, but for a quick and easy solution....or extra peace of mind.....this valve will do the job.
HCP764 Aftermarket mini in-line FUEL ON-OFF VALVE:
$ 22.95
ORIGINAL PETCOCK REBUILD PARTS & REBUILD KITS:
All of the major and minor parts needed to rebuild your original petcocks. NOTE: most items listed below will not fit any aftermarket nor the current factory-replacement petcocks!
Although the original Yamaha "automatic" vacuum-operated petcocks are durable (and quite a clever design), time and use will take their toll on the internal components.....the rubber o-rings, valves, and the vacuum diaphram.....and necessitate a rebuild periodically. A leaking petcock is a dangerous petcock and can lead to severe engine damage (a leaking petcock, in conjunction with leaking float valves inside the carbs, will overflow the fuel bowls and the over-flowed gas can drain directly into the engine crankcase, leading to gas-diluted oil which has a nasty habit of allowing engine bearings to seize up) or to a fire condition that can burn up not just you and your bike, but your house and home, too!
So, do yourself and the neighborhood a favor......fix your petcock if it's leaking!
A great visual journal of the original automatic petcock rebuilding process is documented at:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/25058
or
http://redirect.viglink.com/?format...ogle.com/open?id=0B_auMGwOqE1rVlBMN0xKRE9rSG8
How do I know if my petcock is "leaking"?:
Easy: Put the selector Lever at the ON position (note: make sure that the cast in, tiny arrow on the lever is actually pointing in the proper direction!), then pull off the fuel hose from the petcock fuel outlet nipple (while the engine is off!), and leave the hose off overnight. A catch can or a paper towel placed under the petcock may be handy to catch any leakage that exists.
IF you observe any amount of leakage (past 1 or 2 drops, MAX!) over a 24-hour period, your petcock is leaking.
Why does a petcock leak? And how to you fix these problems:
Well, there are a number of root causes that can cause a petcock to leak, but it's always due to worn parts (mainly the rubber seals, gaskets, o-rings), or a worn or ruptured vacuum diaphram.
On the front side of the petcock......the Selector Lever side......there are a couple of pieces that can cause leaks, and thus need replacing:
a) the rubber O-RING that seals the selector lever to the petcock body.
b) the plastic FUEL DISTRIBUTION CONTROL VALVE that sits at the base of the selector lever bore. This valve controls the flow of fuel thru the internal passages within the petcock body, and the constant rubbing of the flat rear surface of the Lever, as it is moved from position to position, wears down or deforms this valve.....thus causing leaks.
c) the wavy metal WAVE WASHER, which goes on top of the selector Lever is puts inward pressure on the lever. Over time, this spring washer looses it's tension, and thus its intended function.
There is one other issue to be aware of on the front side of the petcock, and that is the selector LEVER itself. Although replacement levers are not available (and are not really needed), it is the flat "backside" of the lever that actually contacts the distribution valve, and helps control the flow of fuel. If the flat back-side of the selector lever is no longer perfectly flat, or has pits and gouges in it, then you need to "surface-cut" that rear face and make it perfectly smooth again!
This is best accomplished by "sanding" the rear side of the selector lever against some very fine grit polishing paper (800-grit or higher). And the best way to perform this sanding is against a perfectly flat piece of plate metal or glass. It is imperative that the piece of material that you are sanding upon is as perfectly straight and flat as possible or you will "surface" the back of the lever at an angle, with predictably disastrous results!
So, do this:
a) lay the piece of 800-grit polishing paper down, flat, gritty-side "up", on the flat surface.
b) spray the surface of the polishing paper with a lubricant, silicone lube or even WD-40 works just fine.
c) holding the selector lever firmly, place the rear face firmly and flatly down on the polishing paper and begin to "sand" it in a circular motion.
It will not take more than 20-30 seconds of constant, even, and firm (but not "death-grip hard"!) pressure to re-surface the rear face. Rinse it off and inspect: there should be no low spots (if there are, keep sanding!). When the rear face of the lever is perfectly flat, shiny, and smooth as a baby's butt, then you're done with this important task.
NOTE: while you've got your flat plate and polishing paper and lubricant all cranked up like this, we strongly recommend that you also "surface-cut" the following supposed-to-be-perfectly-flat surfaces of the petcock, too:
i) the top mounting surface of the petcock body (where the petcock flange meets the bottom of the fuel tank).
ii) the rear mounting surface where the petcock vacuum diaphram plastic spacer plate sits against the petcock body.
iii) the front mounting surface of the petcock vacuum diaphram cover plate.
iv) on models so equipped, the petcock body mounting surface where the fuel outlet cover plate is attached (XJ700, XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 original petcocks do not have this feature on their petcocks).
v) the inside surface of the selector lever bore on the petcock body. It is this surface that the petcock lever o-ring rides against.
Okay! Now after all this sanding and cutting and polishing, make darned sure that you flush all the sanding grit ad material off of and out of the petcock body and related pieces completely and thoroughly.
On the rear of the petcock is where the vacuum control unit lives....and it is this vacuum diaphram and plunger unit that gives the petcock it's "automatic on-off" feature (note: on XJ1100 models, the vacuum diaphram unit is mounted in a separate housing, controls both of the petcocks, and is very similar in design to what is discussed below).
Briefly, the vacuum diaphram has an attached plunger with an o-ring on the end of it. This plunger and it's o-ringed tip fit inside a machined, 30-degree beveled "seat" in the rear of the petcock body, and it is the contact of the o-ring to the seat that shuts off fuel flow through the petcock (when the selector lever is in the ON or RES positions) when the engine is off (the diaphram assembly and, thus, the plunger are spring loaded to provide the pressure on the o-ring). When the engine is started, the vacuum from the engine pulls on the vacuum diaphram, which withdraws the plunger and it's o-ringed tip off of that machined seat in the petcock body, and, like magic, you now have fuel flowing through the petcock.
But, big problems can occur back here, including:
i) the vacuum diaphram ruptures, gets pinholes, or other problems that prevent it from being drawn open in the presence of vacuum.
ii) the o-ring on the end of the plunger deteriorates, and can no longer provide a fluid-tight seal against the seat.
iii) the diaphram spring, which provides the force to push the plunger o-ring against the seat, loses tension over time, and can no longer push the o-ring tightly enough against the seat to provide complete closure.
iv) the machined seat in the petcock body has become worn or deformed in some way, and any flaw in this seat will allow fluid seepage, even if all of the other components are functioning properly.
Solutions are needed. We recommend the replacement of the VACUUM DIAPHRAM ASSEMBLY-----which includes the plunger o-ring-----on all petcock rebuilds, as well as a SHIMMING WASHER to be placed under the diaphram pressure spring, to help restore some of it's lost "push".
In addition, you must inspect that machined seat in the petcock body very carefully, and if there are any flaws in this seat, they must be remedied or you'll end up with a slow drip-drip-drip type of leak. I recommend the use of a magnifying glass for this inspection; that seat must be perfectly smooth! If imperfections are found, you'll have to polish them out carefully, and if they can't be polished out, then that petcock body is, unfortunately, junk.
One other hint, in this area: the petcock diaphram fits over a molded, grey plastic SPACER PLATE, and this spacer plate has short locating pins cast into it that insure the proper alignment of both the vacuum diaphram gaskets, and also the proper placement of the spacer onto the rear of the petcock body. Do not install this spacer plate backwards! As a marker, the small vent hole on the one face of the spacer plate (this vent travels from the central hole of the spacer plate all the way to one outer edge) should be oriented to face to the rear and against the petcock body when properly installed.
On the top of the petcock is large oval mounting flange where the MOUNTING O-RING and the inside-the-tank FUEL FILTER are located. There is nothing special here, but make sure that the surface of this flange is straight, and that there is no accumulated build-up of gunk or adhesive in the o-ring groove. (NOTE: the o-ring does not use adhesive, but many previous-owners have used it, and it all needs to be removed!).
Also, be aware that our replacement in-tank filters have an oval base that is slightly oversized compared to the original filter, and this some very minor trimming and fitting of the oval base of the filter may be necessary in order to get the base of the filter to fit into the recess of the petcock body. Normally, we find that the filter is both slightly too long and too wide; some gentle "surface-cutting" with the flat plate and the polishing paper will cut away enough material to allow the filter to fit snugly (and again, no adhesive is used to seal the filter to the petcock body![/b].
On the bottom of the petcock is the fuel outlet nipple and cover plate (once again, the XJ700, XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 original petcocks do not have this feature on their petcocks). This outlet plate is sealed to the petcock body via a thin paper GASKET, and this gasket should be re-newed as part of a petcock rebuild.
The XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 petcocks feature a petcock DRAIN SCREW and GASKET on the front, lower portion of the petcock body, and that gasket should be renewed during a rebuild.
Finally, the MOUNTING SCREWS that are used to secure the petcock to the tank (do not over-tighten these, 5-8 ft-lbs. of torque is plenty!) have their own special SEALING WASHERS that prevent gas migration in this area. These fiber washers should always be replaced whenever the petcock is removed from the tank.
Petcock Operation:
The front of your petcock has the movable Selector Lever that allows you to choose between the ON, RES(erve), or PR(ime) settings:
- ON is where you normally leave the selector lever. In this position, the petcock will flow fuel only when a vacuum signal is present....meaning, only when the engine is running.
- RES is where you place the selector lever when your bike starts sputtering when running out of gas! In this position, the petcock will flow fuel only when a vacuum signal is present....meaning, only when the engine is running. In reality, there is no real differences between the ON and RES positions as far as the operation of the petcock is concerned; the RES setting is there mainly to serve as a reminder to you that you had better get to a fuel station pronto!
- PRI is hardly ever used. In this position, fuel can flow through the petcock at all times (whether the engine is on or off). This position is normally used only to refill the carb fuel bowls after draining (such as when the fuel levels in the bowls are checked). DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETCOCK SET TO THE PR(ime) POSITION; if your float needle valves are leaking, leaving the petcock in the PR setting will insure a flooded engine or possibly a fire!