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SECTION C:

FUEL SYSTEM ITEMS: Including Airbox, Carbs, Intakes, Fuel Tanks, Sending Units, Petcocks, Gas Caps, Tank Mounts, Etc.

--General Fuel System Tools & Parts



FUEL SYSTEM TOOLS:

CARB TOOLS:

NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.


Carb Chemicals:

xx1) Fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE. Yeah, it's smelly and makes a slippery mess on your fingers, but this stuff is a life-saver for any true wrencher, because it prevents problems down the road. Use it on any metal fastener that does not require a "loctite" thread-locker material to be used. This means on just about every fastener that is carb, engine case, or suspension-related! (except for carb upper and lower rack-mount screws and butterfly valve screws, which do require the use of a thread-lock fluid). If you think that it might, sometime, in the future, need to come off: use anti-seize compound! NOTE: the "base" metal material used in the different anti-seize pastes below do not determine what type of fastener to use such pastes on; it merely signifies what base material is used to create the anti-seize paste. You can use any "base-metal" anti-seize paste on any type of fastener and metal.

NOTE: the use of anti-seize compounds will result in a TORQUE-MULTIPLYING EFFECT……..the result of a reduction in friction between the threaded contact points……and thus fasteners treated with anti-seize compound should have their torque values reduced by at least 10-15% when installed into steel material, and up to 25% into aluminum materials or other “soft” metals” (such as spark plugs into cylinder heads, or almost any other type of fastener into the engine) …… note that this rule applies only to service manual torque specifications on fasteners that are not indicated to be treated with anti-seize fluid by the factory …. if the factory manual specifies the use of an anti-seize coating, then the specified torque value for that fitting already takes into account the “reduced torque” necessary.

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorqueNm.aspx

http://www.bmwmotorcycletech.info/sparkplugs.htm

http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf


HCP1264 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based in a 1-ounce squeeze tube, for smaller jobs.
$ 5.95

HCP1265 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based formula in a 4-ounce tub with a brush-lid, for larger jobs.
$ 7.95

HCP9784 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
$ 12.95

HCP9763 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard-grade copper-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
$ 12.95

HCP9764 Aftermarket fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, premium-grade nickel-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
$ 17.95


NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Therefore it may have to be shipped in a separate package from the remainder of your order, and will thus incur additional shipping charges.

HCP20860 Aftermarket industrial-strength ASSEMBLY LUBE, in a standard 12-ounce aerosol can. Heavy-duty formula includes graphite to not only enhance and speed up the penetrant action, but also gets down into the pores of the metal for the greatest possible lubrication possible. Won't wash away, protect against rust and corrosion, stable from 0-degrees up to 250-F. This fluid is also a great choice for use as a drive cable lubricant.
$ 21.95

HCP20862 Aftermarket super-duty ASSEMBLY LUBE, in a generous 10-ounce aerosol can. The cat's-meow of lubricants, infused with pure moly disulfide, it goes on wet and then dries in 1-2 hours to a super-slick, high-pressure, hi-temp, bearing-like finish which provides the ultimate level of protection. Prevents rust and corrosion, won't wash off, throw off, and won't attract dust or dirt. Surfaces must be clean and dry of previous oils, etc. before application. Can even be used as an engine, tranny, and drivetrain assembly lube!
$ 24.95

HCP20863 Aftermarket super-duty GRAPHITE LUBE, in a generous 10-ounce aerosol can. The 800-pound gorilla of lubricants, it's infused with pure graphite, goes on wet, and then dries in 10 minutes to a super-slick, high-pressure, bearing-like finish which provides the ultimate level of protection. Prevents rust, won't wash off, throw off, and won't attract dust or dirt. Surfaces must be clean and dry of previous oils, etc. before application. Can be used as an engine assembly lube, bearing or bushing pre-lube, great for lock cylinders, and all metallic sliding surfaces. Use where dusty or dirty conditions render oil-based lubricants ineffective or undesirable.
$ 21.95




xx2) The next most important tool: fastener THREAD LOCKER FLUIDS. Use on any fastener that you don't normally ever remove, to make sure that it stays that way. Comes in a variety of formulas, each one designed for a specific use as explained below.

HCP1266 Low Strength THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is a semi-permanent formula that provides moderate vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for upper and lower carb rack mount screws and the butterfly valve-to-throttle shaft retaining screws. A little bit goes a long way.......
$ 11.95


HCP1267 Semi-Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is semi-permanent formula that provides good vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for use with 6-20mm fasteners.
$ 11.95

HCP27756 Semi-Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 0.5ml squeeze tube. This is semi-permanent formula that provides good vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for use with 6-20mm fasteners. Small single-use tube is great for, well, small jobs!
$ 3.95


HCP1268 Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is a high-strength formula that provides superior vibration-loosening resistance, and requires the use of heat or special tools to break loose the fastener for disassembly.
$ 11.95

HCP1269 Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6ml squeeze tube. This is both a high-strength AND high-heat formula that provides superior vibration-loosening resistance, and requires the use of heat or special tools to break loose the fastener for disassembly.
$ 11.95




b4) Aftermarket pure SILICONE GREASE----this is the proper product to use when installing any rubber-based o-ring or seal or paper gasket. Silicone doesn't affect rubber, provides good seal lubrication, can also be used as a "glue" to hold gaskets and seals in place during installation, and to aid in the re-assembly of components.

HCP28407 Aftermarket o-ring, oil seal, and gasket installation pure SILICONE GREASE. This small, 5-gram snap-open "pillow packet" is enough for a dozens of small seals, o-rings, and the like. Each:
$ 4.95

HCP1714 Aftermarket o-ring, oil seal, and gasket installation pure SILICONE GREASE. This generous 1/2-oz. tub goes a long way, because just like Brylcreem, "just a little dab will do ya'!" Each:
$ 9.95



NOTE: the following product can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Therefore it may have to be shipped in a separate package from the remainder of your order, and will thus incur additional shipping charges.

HCP20861 Aftermarket industrial-strength SILICONE LUBE, in a large 16-ounce aerosol can. Concentrated silicone sprays on wet, and then dries to a super-slick, clear, non-greasy, non-staining finish. Resists moisture, stops squeeks, prevents binding on all types of surfaces (wood, metal, plastic, rubber, even fabrics). Won't wash away, protect against rust and corrosion, stable from -100 degrees up to 500-F. This fluid is also a great choice for use as installation lubricant for o-rings, oil seals, etc. (similar to our HCP1714 or HCP28407 silicone grease paste) or wherever petroleum-based lubricants are not recommended.
$ 24.95




HCP20849 Aftermarket fuel system FLUSH AND STABILIZER TREATMENT, the use of approximately 1 ounce per gallon of fuel --- added to the gas --- helps to loosen up accumulated crud and debris inside the petcock and the carbs, and thus allows it to be dissolved and run thru the engine. It also acts as a fuel stabilizer to prevent fuel breakdown and varnish formation......will stabilize fuel for up to two years. Using it during your "winterizing" procedure will help prevent the dreaded clogged-carbs syndrome when you go to start up your bike when springs rolls around. NOTE: the recommended dosage of 1 ounce per gallon will require a different amount per bike model, since all XJ's have different sized tanks. Do not follow the "more-is-better" philosophy when using this product! It is not unusual for the engine to produce a whitish-colored exhaust while this additive is being combusted.

By the way, the best fuel stabilizer to use, if you can easily find it, is race gas…..expensive, but it works:

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/gasoline.html


Tank capacities for reference:
XJ550 Maxim: 16.6 liters (4.4 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.6 liters (1.0 gallon) reserve.
XJ550 Seca: 19.5 liters (5.1 gallons) total; main supply is 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons), and 3.5 liters (0.9 gallons) reserve.
XJ650 Maxim/Midnight Maxim: 16.6 liters (4.4 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.6 liters (1.0 gallon) reserve.
XJ650RJ Seca: 23.3 liters (6.2 gallons) total; main supply is 19.5 liters (5.2 gallons), and 3.8 liters (1.0 gallon) reserve.
XJ650 Euro: 21.7 liters (4.7 gallons) total; main supply is 19.5 liters (4.1 gallons), and 2.2 liters (0.6 gallons) reserve.
XJ650 Turbo (1982): 18.5 liters (4.2 gallons) total; main supply is 15.5 liters (3.4 gallons) total, and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) reserve.
XJ650 Turbo (1983): 19.0 liters (5.0 gallons) total; main supply is 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons), and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) is reserve.
XJ700 all: 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750 Seca (1981-83): 23.1 liters (6.1 gallons) total; main supply is 19.0 liters (5.0 gallons), and 4.1 liters (1.1 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750 Seca (1984): 27.0 liters (7.1 gallons) total; main supply is 22.0 liters (5.8 gallons), and 5.0 L (1.3 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750 Maxim/Midnight Maxim: 21.1 liters (5.6 gallons) total; main supply is 17.0 liters (4.5 gallons), and 4.1 liters (1.1 gallons) is reserve.
XJ750-X: 16.0 liters (4.2 gallons) total; main supply is 13.0 liters (3.4 gallons), and 3.0 liters (0.8 gallons) is reserve.
XJ900: 27.0 liters (7.1 gallons) total; main supply is 22.0 liters (5.8 gallons), and 5.0 L (1.3 gallons) is reserve.
XJ1100: 23.1 liters (6.1 gallons) total; main supply is 19.0 liters (5.0 gallons), and 4.1 liters (1.1 gallons) is reserve.

16-ounce can is the right size to accommodate 2 complete engine flush procedures.
$ 23.95




NOTE: the following product can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Therefore it may have to be shipped in a separate package from the remainder of your order, and will thus incur additional shipping charges.

HCP8540 Aftermarket carb diaphram rubber RnR FLUID. Dissolved and chlorinated paraffin wax is the best (and perhaps the only) way to safely bring some life back into stiff, worn rubber material... such as that found in those all-important carb piston diaphragms. Years of hard life inside of your carb take their toll, and whenever your carb is apart for service, and generous application of this product will help to clean, maintain, and restore the flexibility, while prolonging their usable service life. 10cc dripper bottle contains enough fluid to do about eight diaphragms. Simple to use, spread on, wait a few minutes, wipe off, repeat and you're done!
$ 9.95




Rust Removal and Prevention Fluids:

rr4) Concentrated RUST REMOVER magically dissolves rust on all iron-based metals. Spray or wipe directly onto rusty parts, or immerse the items in a container full of this solution (diluted), let it work, then rinse off. Highly concentrated, easy to use, leaves the metal surfaces grease-free and ready for further processing or finishing. GREAT FOR DE-RUSTING THE INSIDE OF GAS TANKS!

NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Therefore it may have to be shipped in a separate package from the remainder of your order, and will thus incur additional shipping charges.

HCP12358 Aftermarket RUST DESTROYER FLUID, in a 16-ounce plastic bottle. Best to transfer into an old windex spray bottle (etc.) and use with a spray nozzle. After use, it is recommend that the de-rusted parts be immediately painted (or similar) or coated with fogging oil, lubricant, or other surface finish to prevent flash surface-rusting of the newly cleaned parts. Each:
$ 19.95

HCP11475 Aftermarket aerosol FOGGING OIL, top end lubricant coats, clings, and protects metal surfaces against rust and prevents ring seizure when an extended period of non-use is expected (winter storage). Spray directly into cylinders (thru the spark plug holes), rotate the engine over a few turns with the starter motor (but with plugs still removed-----do not allow the engine to start!) to spread the oil about, and your pistons, cylinders, rings will live happily ever after...............or, at least until you start up the engine next spring! 10-ounce can will fog many a cylinder.
$ 9.95


Here are a few other good ways to de-rust metal products:

- soak iron (steel) parts in heated vinegar (doesn’t matter what kind) overnight, then rinse with clean water. and finally spray with fogging oil (or similar) to prevent rust from re-forming.

http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html

http://www.moreg.org.au/dissolving_rust.htm

http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/32838

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php...val-no-frills-easiest-fastest-cheapest.48196/

http://www.robertscycle.com/chrome-clean.html

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/teds-2nd-82-xj750-maxim-bobber-project.47929/#post-478002

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/rust-removal-using-molasses-90452/




Mixture Screw Tool:

v) IDLE MIXTURE SCREW TOOL is designed for the proper removal and fine adjustment of the idle mixture screw, preventing the destruction of the fragile straight slot head on these screws. An exact-fit blade is set at the end of a 12” long shaft, and the screw driving bit is rotated via a handle on the end of tool....this design not only eliminates stripping out the idle mixture screw slot, but also allows for very fine adjustment of the screw when fine-tuning the carbs (when using a colortune plug, etc.). The long horizontal shaft allows you to easily reach the center carbs from the outside of the carb bank, no need to lift the tank to access them. A knurled section on the shaft provides for a positive grip. A very neat little tool and it'll last a lifetime or two. Fits: all XJ550 all, all XJ650, all XJ700, all XJ750, all XJ900, XJ1100, and all 1980-81 XS1100 carbs.

HCP24870 Aftermarket idle mixture screw REMOVAL AND ADJUSTER TOOL, fits all Hitachi and all Mikuni idle mixture screws.
$ 27.95



YICS System Tuning Tools:

The following two tools are used only in "YICS" ("Yamaha Induction Control System") equipped engines. YICS was used on all XJ550 models, 1982-up XJ650 Maxim and XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700 air-cooled models, all XJ750 air-cooled models, 1983 XJ900RK, and 1982 XJ1100 models.

The 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and the 1982 XJ650 Seca (silver paint) models, did NOT use the YICS system.

- it has also been reported by some owners that some very early model 1982 XJ650 Maxim models did not use the YICS system, either.

- it has also been noted that very late-year model 1982 XJ650RJC (Canadian model XJ650RJ Seca red-painted models) did use a YICS engine.

YICS-engine bikes have front lower (oil pump) covers on both sides that have a rectangular "YICS" emblem in them below the cast-in YAMAHA wording. Non-YICS models have the oil pump covers with only the YAMAHA wording (or no wording at all) cast into the cover.

YICS bikes also use a valve cover that has the word YICS cast into the top surface, while non-YICS models are blank or are cast "YAMAHA" (or "YAMAHA 5VALVE on XJ700-X and XJ750-X models) into the valve cover.


vv7) Aftermarket YICS CHAMBER PORT BLANKING TOOL---this is the tool you'll need to perform a proper carb synchronization on any YICS motor......without it, you're just wasting time. This block-off tool is used to isolate each cylinder from the others while performing a carb synch. Updated version of the factory #90890-04068-00 tool. Some people claim that this tool is NOT needed to perform a proper synch; we disagree, and so do the Yamaha engineers who designed the YICS system. This quality tool features a snap-open and shut trunnion handle design like the original. This is NOT a cheap home-made tool and has all the proper seals, dimensions, and high-temp insulators as an original factory tool.

We recommend that you purchase a set of the HCP6380 replacement seals, too, as you'll eventually need to replace them.

HCP5460 Aftermarket YICS CHAMBER PORT BLANKING TOOL:
$ 59.95

HCP6380 Aftermarket insulator SEALS SET for the HCP5460 tool, set of 3 seals.
$ 8.95



c5) Yamaha YICS CHAMBER AND PASSAGES CLEAN-OUT TOOLS ---- ---- the YICS chamber runs side-to-side in the back of the cylinder head, and is accessed via a 12mm bolt on either end (this is the same chamber that the HCP5460 synch passage-block-off tool fits into). This chamber has four tiny passages in the top, one for each cylinder. These passages can accumulate soot and other material over time, effectively clogging or reducing their capability to pass the fuel-air mixture through them, and thus compromising their function….take a look for yourself:

The HCP1410SS bristle wire brush will effectively scrub the length of the passage bore, while the YICS port probe & clean-out tool (HCP1282) has a spear point that can punch through the toughest accumulation of carbon build-up, and has marked notches on the extension rod to indicate exactly how deep into the chamber the tool must be inserted to easily locate the passages. Convenient dowel handle allows for ease of use. A very handle tool to have around! For use on all XJ650 - XJ900 YICS-equipped engines (the HCP1282 port tool is not needed on XJ550 engines and is too short to reach the entire length on XJ1100 engines).


HCP1282 Aftermarket YICS chamber PASSAGE CLEAN-OUT TOOL:
$ 19.95

HCP1410SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, perfect size for cleaning out the YICS chamber in the cylinder head of all the built-up baked carbon before using the YICS tool. We recommend the use of an aggressive solvent when cleaning this passage, such as Hoppes #9 gun-cleaning fluid (available at gun shops) or similar. NOTE: this brush is too short to reach into the entire length of the chamber on XJ1100 engines.
$ 7.95


NOTE: the YICS chamber bolts do not need to be replaced unless they are missing or otherwise damaged, but the copper crush washer should be replaced periodically to insure a leak-proof. The passage bolt should be torqued to 16 ft-lbs.

HCP3735 OEM cylinder head YICS passage BOLT, used on all 1981 XJ550 models, 1981 XJ750 Seca, all XJ700 air-cooled engines, and all XJ900 N, FN, and F engines. Fits either side. Each:
$ 5.95

HCP3733 OEM cylinder head YICS passage BOLT, used on all 1982-3 XJ550 models, 1982-3 all XJ650 and XJ750 models, all XJ900RK and RL engines, and XJ1100 engines. Fits either side. Each:
$ 4.95


HCP3734 OEM cylinder head YICS passage bolt copper CRUSH WASHER, used on all XJ550 models, 1982-3 all XJ650 and XJ750 models, all XJ700 non-X, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, and XJ1100 engines. Fits either side. Each:
$ 4.95

HCP22280 Aftermarket cylinder head YICS passage bolt copper CRUSH WASHER, used on all XJ550 models, 1982-3 all XJ650 and XJ750 models, all XJ700 non-X, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F engines, and XJ1100 engines. Fits either side. Slightly smaller in diameter and thickness than original crush washer, but fits and performs properly. Each:
$ 2.95



Engine Tuning Tools:

j2) Aftermarket Morgan CARBTUNE PRO 4-COLUMN SYNCH GAUGE TOOL.......brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. This is the one that professionals use and recommend, and is superior in design, ease of use, and accuracy versus vacuum gauges and all other versions, whether fluid-filled or otherwise. Uses damped stainless steel sliding dowel rods instead of mercury or the "blue mystery fluid", giving accurate, safe, and easy-to-read measurements. More expensive than other synch tools and worth it. Use it even once and you'll wonder how you lived without it.

NOTE: this tool is used on all XJ engines, regardless of whether it is a "YICS" engine or not, and is necessary to perform the "running" or vacuum synch. If your carbs have been removed from the engine for a rebuild, then it is also suggested that a "bench synch" procedure be performed, which does not require this (or any) tools perform.....the only purpose of the bench synch procedure is merely to get the carbs set up "close enough" to allow the engine to start and run, at which time a running (vacuum) synch of the engine should be immediately performed, using the HCP96Q synch gauges, A great visual guide to the bench synch process can be seen at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/6366


Please note that Yamaha specifies that the engine synchronization procedure should be performed every 2,500 - 4,000 miles to insure the maximum performance and life-expectancy from your engine.

Also, please note! you can sometimes find these same sticks selling at a discount at various places, but most of these places are offering a much older, now-discontinued Carbtune II version, rather than the latest, much-improved Carbtune PRO version that is offered here. The PRO version is much more durable, accurate, and easier to clean and service than the older version.


Here's a great tutorial on using the Carbtune Synch Gauges:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYgN2-96 ... re=related


HCP96Q Aftermarket Morgan CARBTUNE PRO 4-COLUMN SYNCH GAUGE TOOL.
$ 119.95



j3) Aftermarket Carbtune Pro STORAGE AND TRANSPORT CASE for the above carbtune pro synch stick......a heavy duty, nicely made zippered and clasp-closure storage case to hold the gauge and all the accessories neatly and safely. You REALLY want to have this to safely store and transport the (somewhat fragile) synch gauges!

HCP1287 Aftermarket Carbtune Pro STORAGE AND TRANSPORT CASE.
$ 19.95




j5) Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT....brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. If you really want to tune your multi-carbs to perfection, you'll have to use this unique "see-through" spark plug that allows you to view the combustion chamber flame color in real-time, thus allowing accurate (rather than guesswork) adjustments to your idle mixture screws. Use it once and you won't believe how you ever got by without it, and will pity those who don't have one of their own. Beware: you'll find that a lot of people now want to be your "friend" and have you come and tune on their bikes, once they find out you have a Colortune!

Also, please note! you can find quite a few of these plugs at a discount at various places, but most of these places are selling an older, now-discontinued "automotive" version of the Gunson colortune plug. While there are no fitment differences between the automotive and "motorcycle" versions of these plugs, just be aware that the automotive versions were designed to be used in a water-cooled engine, and thus have a significantly lower heat tolerance----and if these plugs overheat, the "clear" window either goes cloudy or just simply fractures.

NOTE: the proper use of the Colortune plug requires you to:

a) have your valve clearances within spec,
b) have the engine proper vacuum-synched,
c) have the YICS chamber blanking tool installed (if it is a YICS engine),
d) perform a re-synch of the engine after each cylinder is color-tuned. This colortune - synch - colortune - synch etc. iteration is necessary as any adjustments made to each cylinder (as determined by the results of the colortune operation) throws the engine out of synch.
e) the above procedure is the only way to truly and properly "tune" a multi-carbed engine!


The following overview video show the Colortune Plug in action:




going from orange (rich) to blue:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hFUvQ4gaPc

Note in the above video how much easier it is to see the combustion color, especially when looking at the plug “window” from off-center (i.e. looking straight down the centerline of the plug results in the actual spark color “diluting” the combustion color). Also note that it is being filmed in a dark area, making the “neon blue” color easier to observe than when observed in strong light.


Here’s a good one showing a colortune being hooked up incorrectly (arcing):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ_mZJYIq8I&feature=related



And here's a super-sized colortune plug, don't try this at home kids!:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9V9u1KvyM5k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVTfNSTR39o



Another good diagnostic tip: a cylinder running too lean can exhibit a periodic orange flame and sooty plug. If the cylinder is too lean to fire, the fuel accumulates for a couple of cycles, then when it does ignite the total fuel charge is too rich (orange flame) with the resultant unburned hydrocarbon deposits resulting (the sooty plug).

And here is a helpful tip for XJ700-X and XJ750-X owners:

- " I had a terrible time trying to get the X color-tuned because there would be an arc to the wall of the cylinder head, and it made reading the color difficult. Because the sight window in the colortune for the X is so narrow, there is less light for you to see, and using the "site tube" with the mirror at the end made it very difficult for me to see clearly what was going on.

I had a very thin sheet of Teflon that I cut into a 4" x 6" section and after removing the spark plug I curled the 6" section and slid the 4" long tube down inside where the spark plug goes. This Teflon was originally used to prevent high voltage from arcing in a radio amplifier, and I figured it might work for this as well. The Teflon, being white, reflected the light from the glass in the colortune and it was thick enough to prevent any arcing from the colortune extender.

So the double benefit was to seemingly amplify the amount of light that I could see and to prevent any arcing from happening. I looked on eBay and it seems like there are quite a few pieces of thin Teflon that are very affordable. If arcing is a problem for you with your X, this is probably a good solution for you. This really saves a lot of time with the X engines.:


Please remember, though, that a Colortune is NOT used to set your carbs at anything other than idle rpm's!!


NOTE: 10mm plugs are used on all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models. 12mm plugs are used on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 S/SH models. 14mm plugs are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750 non-X, XJ900RK, , RL, F, N, and FN models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models.

HCP95A Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT, for 10mm spark plugs. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "C" are 10mm, and are used on all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II models.
$ 69.95

HCP95B Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT, for 12mm plugs. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "D" are 12mm, and are used on all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 S/SH models. And due to the depth of the spark plug well on the water-cooled engines, it can be a challenging experience to install and remove the Colortune plug on those engines......
$ 77.95

HCP95C Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT, for 14mm spark plugs. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "B" are 14mm, and are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750 non-X, XJ900RK, RL, F, N, and FN models, XJ1100, and all XS1100 models.
$ 119.95



j5a) Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with its copper sealing washer). Available for those who wish to have more than one plug available for use without having to buy another complete set. NOTE: all the accessory pieces used with the HCP95A-B-C kits (listed above).....including the short plastic "socket", the long extension tube/socket, the viewing tube, and the high-tension wire lead.....are the same between all sets.

HCP2751W Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with copper washer), 10mm.
$ 59.95

HCP2752W Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with copper washer), 12mm.
$ 58.95

HCP2753W Aftermarket Colortune SPARK PLUG ONLY (with copper washer), 14mm.
$ 58.95



j5c) Aftermarket Colortune spark plug WASHER ONLY……for those who have lost the special sealing washer used with the colortune plug, we offer these replacements:.

HCP2758-10A Aftermarket Colortune spark plug COPPER WASHER ONLY, for 10mm plug.
$ 9.95

HCP2758-12B Aftermarket Colortune spark plug COPPER WASHER ONLY, for 12mm plug.
$ 7.95

HCP2758-14C Aftermarket Colortune spark plug COPPER WASHER ONLY, for 14mm plug.
$ 7.95




j5b) Aftermarket Colortune Spark Plug 14mm-to-12mm ADAPTER. Available for those who have bikes than use both 12mm and 14mm plugs, but only want to buy one Colortune Plug and use it on both engines. This adapter allows the use of a 14mm plug in a 12mm spark plug hole. NOTE: not for use on cylinders under 180cc displacement (720cc or smaller on a 4-cylinder motor) as the extra volume that this adapter increases the combustion chamber volume, which in turn decreases the effective compression ratio of the engine---thus resulting in an unreliable reading from the plug. Only really useful for XJ750-X owners, as they are the only XJ-series bikes that have 12mm plugs AND have a cylinder displacement greater than 180cc.

HCP6496 Aftermarket Colortune plug 14mm-to-12mm ADAPTER.
$ 21.95




j77) Aftermarket carb tuning and synchronization AUXILIARY FUEL TANK. This handy plastic mini-tank allows you to conveniently and safely store the small amount of fuel you'll need when operating the engine when the main fuel tank is removed....such as during synch procedures and colortuning efforts. Tank comes with hanger wire, 4' of the proper 1/4" fuel hose, and an in-line on-off valve.

HCP159 Aftermarket plastic AUXILIARY FUEL TANK, half-gallon capacity. Gravity feed design, not suitable for fuel-injected bikes, but perfect for all XJ models. Includes plastic tank with lid, hanger bracket, fuel line, and an on-off control valve. XJ1100 models will have to use a fuel "T-fitting" to split the outlet hose to the two carb fuel inlet. This is a high-quality, shop-grade tank, not some flimsy chain-store product!
$ 59.95




af12) OEM and aftermarket carb fuel bowl FLOAT HEIGHT and FUEL LEVEL GAUGES......let's face it, setting the float level heights on carbs is a real pain in the butt (and that's being as nice as I can be about it!). You normally have to take the carbs on-and-off the bike two or three times to get the settings right, rig up some special leveling fixtures, etc. etc. If you've done it before, you know what I mean. These special tools can help lessen this nightmare (but not eliminate it, sorry!).

Yamaha service manuals define the float-height be set via the "clear tube" method, whereby you install a clear piece of tubing into the carb bowl drain outlet, open the drain screw, and then hold the tube upwards against the edge of the carb bowl and see how high up the fuel rises in the tube, and then compare this level to a specified distance below the carb bowl-carb body interface.

A simplified "shortcut" method is to set one of the floats correctly (as measured by the fuel level), and then measure the "height" of the float off of the carb base. Using this known "correct" float height measurement, you can then set the remaining three carb float heights using that once correct measurement, and then using the clear-tube measure to simply check the results (and tweak as is necessary to get all the fuel levels as close a possible to each other).

Setting your fuel levels correctly is important to having your engine operate correctly. The fuel levels in the bowls have a direct effect on the air-fuel mixture ratio ("rich" or "lean") of each carb, and thus both the accuracy and the equality of those levels between the different carbs should be adjusted with care.

These gauges will allow you to do just that.

Here's the Holy Grail on this subject:

http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

And here’s a good visual guide to some problems that you might run into:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/setting-the-floats-mikuni-not-gettin-any-readings-fixed.40395

and here’s a wonderful video from TurpentyneTV that shows the whole process in excruciating detail:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8yu-WjcglY



Fuel Level Cheat Sheet:

Here's the proper fuel-level settings by model when using the "clear-tube" method of measurement:


Hitachi all HSC32 series models:

NOTE: all of the following models used HSC32 carbs:
XJ650 Maxim, Midnight Maxim, XJ650RJ Seca (non-turbo), XJ650 Euro all use HSC32 carbs (various versions)
XJ750 all USA 1981-83 models use HSC32 version 5G200 (Seca) and 15R00 (Maxim and Midnight Maxim)
XJ750 all Canadian 1981-83 models use HSC32 version 5H200 (Seca) and 15T00 (Maxim and Midnight Maxim)
XJ750 UK/Europe 11M models, XJ750 Police models 24L and 37H use HSC32 version 5N100

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 3mm +/- 1mm (.12 +/- .04 inches)

-Float height: 17.5 +/- 0.5mm


Hitachi HSC33 series (XJ700 air-cooled models):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 1.0mm +/- 1mm (.039" +/- .039")

-Float height: 16.0 +/- 1.0mm


Hitachi HSC33 series (XJ750E-II model):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.197" +/- .039")

-Float height: unknown


Hitachi HSC33 series (XJ750RL models):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 1.0mm +/- 1mm (.039" +/- .039")

-Float height: unknown, but possibly the same as XJ700 air-cooled models (16.0 +/- 1.0mm)


Mikuni BS28 (all XJ550 except 1984 XJ550L):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 2mm +/- 1mm (.08 +/- .039 inches)

-Float height: 21.5 +/- 1.0mm


Mikuni BDS26 (USA all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge:
USA: 4 - 6mm (.016 - 0.24”) below float chamber line

-Float height: 6.2 - 8.2mm (0.24 - 0.32”)


Mikuni BDST28 (non-USA all 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge:
1992-96 Canada and Australia: 3 - 5mm (0.12 - .0.20”) above float chamber line
1992-95 UK: 3 - 5mm (0.12 - .0.20”) above float chamber line
1996-98 UK: 8.5 - 9.5mm (0.34 - .0.37”) above float chamber line

-Float height:
1992-96 Canada and Australia: 11 - 13mm (0.43 - 0.512”)
1992-95 UK: 11 - 13mm (0.43 - 0.51”)
1996-98 UK: 8.8 - 10.8mm (0.35 - 0.42”)


Mikuni BS32 (all XJ550L, 1984-85 FJ600, and 1984-87 / 1989-91 XJ600):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 3mm +/- 1mm (.12 +/- .04 inches)

-Float height: unknown


Mikuni BS30 (all XJ650 Turbo):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 2mm +/- 1mm (.08 +/- .04 inches)

-Float height: 17.5 +/- 0.5mm


Mikuni BS33 (all XJ700-X and XJ750-X):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 3mm +/- 1mm (.12 +/- .04 inches)

-Float height: 17.5 +/- 1.0mm


Mikuni BS35 (all XJ900RK/RL):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 5mm +/- 1mm (.20 +/- .04 inches)

-Float height: 22.3 +/- 0.5mm


Mikuni BS36 (all XJ900F, FN, N, etc):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 5mm +/- 1mm (.20 +/- .04 inches)

-Float height: 22.3 +/- 0.5mm


Mikuni BS34 (all XJ1100 and XS1100):

-Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge: 3mm +/- 1mm (.12 +/- .04 inches)

-Float height:
25.7 +/- 1.0mm (1978-79 all models)
23.0 +/- 0.5mm (1980 all models)
not specified (1981-82 all models)



Float Height Measurement Tools:

HCP9798 We offer this inexpensive FLOAT HEIGHT RULER that comes with a sliding "pocket clip" (which doubles as a fixed position pointer), allowing you to duplicate your float setting measurements from one carb to the next. Ultra-thin and only a 1/4" wide, this 150mm (6") measuring stainless steel ruler has black etched rulings and is a valuable addition to your carb tool arsenal.
$ 8.95

HCP4 Professional quality sliding-arm FLOAT HEIGHT GAUGE is specifically designed for measuring float heights and features a sliding arm that allows you to accurately measure the distance from the carb body base to any point on the float itself (normally to the top or bottom edge of the float, when the needle is in its "just-barely-closed" position) and then apply this exact same setting to the other carbs. A great time saver for this technically simple, but very time-consuming task.
$ 29.95




Fuel Level Measurement Tools:

NOTE: Hitachi and Mikuni carbs use the same "clear tube gauge" to check the fuel level within their bowls, but all Hitachi (and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and all XS1100 Mikuni) carbs feature a cast bowl drain nipple port that also acts as a receiver to the fuel level gauge......just plug-and-play (well, depends on what your definition of "play" is, but you get the picture..........). A great image of the proper use of this clear-tube "gauge" can be seen at:

http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

and see page 8.

Note that the factory-recommended method is properly shown above; the tube should be wrapped around to the side of the outer carb, and "centered" front-to-back along the body.


All other Mikuni carb float bowls do not have the cast-in bowl drain nipple port, and thus the "clear tube" has nothing to attach to. Yamaha provided a separate, brass TUBE ADAPTER that could be temporarily inserted and removed from the bowl drain hole on the Mikuni bowls, thus providing an attachment nipple for those models. An aftermarket version of this non-permanent adapter is available as part HCP26218 below, and we also offer a permanent bowl DRAIN NIPPLE for Mikuni carbs that can be easily installed and provided a permanent "nipple" for the bowl drain port, thus making them functionally just like the Hitachi bowls (part HCP8494 below). You will need to use one or the other of these two adapters in order to check fuel levels on Mikuni bowls (except XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 bowls).



HCP1592 OEM clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the graduated fuel gauge up against the side of the fuel bowl. Black millimeter markings on the measurement tube allow you to easily determine the fuel level with respect to the bowl-to-body reference point. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models with Mikuni carbs, and all other Mikuni carbs using our HCP26218 adapter tool or the HCP8494 drain outlet nipples).
$ 29.95

HCP4926x2 Aftermarket clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear rubber tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the other end against the side of the fuel bowl. Unlike the original gauge HCP1592 listed above, this is just a clear section of fuel line and does NOT have the upper end with any graduated markings. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models with Mikuni carbs, and all other Mikuni carbs using our HCP26218 adapter tool or the HCP8494 drain outlet nipples).
$ 9.95



HCP26218 Aftermarket float bowl FUEL LEVEL TUBE ADAPTER TOOL, for use on all Mikuni carb bowls which do not have a tube nipple cast into the bowl drain output port (note that XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models, do have a cast-in bowl drain nipple, and thus do not use (nor need) this product). Unlike Hitachi carbs, Mikuni float bowls do not have a permanent float bowl drain outlet port fitting which the clear tube fuel level gauge can be attached onto; nope, there's just an empty hole there. Yamaha supplied dealership service departments with a special o-ringed brass adapter fitting that pops into this hole, and which could be used during fuel-level checks….moving this (non-permanent) adapter from bowl-to-bowl as the fuel-level checking process proceeded. This reproduction o-ringed aluminum adapter properly duplicates the function of the original (note: for a permanent adapter solution, you can use the HCP8494 bowl drain nipples below).
$ 11.95


HCP8494 Aftermarket float bowl DRAIN NIPPLE, for use on all Mikuni carb bowls which do not have a tube nipple cast into the bowl drain output port (note that XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models, do have a cast-in bowl drain nipple, and thus do not use (nor need) this product). Unlike Hitachi carbs, Mikuni float bowls do not have a permanent float bowl drain outlet port fitting which the clear tube fuel level gauge can be attached to; no, there's just an empty hole there. The factory had a special o-ringed brass adapter fitting that fit into this hole that would be used during fuel-level checks, but very few people have that adapter and even it is somewhat cumbersome to use. These precisely machined nipples are designed for permanent installation into the Mikuni float bowls----just tap them in place, they are a friction-fit----and them you can slip the fuel-level gauge tube directly onto the protruding end of the fitting. Simple 20-second installation: clean the inside of the drain port in the bowl, use a bit of silicone lube on the adapter, place proper end in drain port, and gently tap in place with a hammer. Once installed, it's leak-free but can still be removed (not easily, but it can!), in case your preferences ever change in the future. Protrudes approximately 1/8" from the drain port, enough to install the clear tube gauge but not enough to interfere with other carb functions. Looks original once installed. Fits Mikuni carbs used on all XJ550 models, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 models. Use 1 per float bowl. Each:
$ 9.95

HCP8494SET4 Aftermarket float bowl DRAIN NIPPLES, for Mikuni carbs, set of 4:
$ 29.95



HCP1408SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 8.0mm diameter, great for the throttle shaft bore and the emulsion tube bore within the carb body on all Hitachi and Mikuni carbs, and is also the correct size for the float bowl fuel outlet port on Mikuni carbs bowls (except XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models). Highly recommended to be used to clean and scour the drain port hole before using either of the above Mikuni bowl adapter fitting or drain nipples.
$ 5.95



Carb Rack Service Stand:

HCP1590-XX Aftermarket CARB SERVICE STAND, heavy-duty steel stand allows you to rotate, pivot, spin, flip, and lift carbs up to a convenient working height. These features, along with a built in level gauge, allow you to service the carbs conveniently and is especially useful for setting your fuel levels properly. Heavy metal base prevents tipping and can be bolted or clamped to a workbench surface. Includes adapters to fit your specific model carbs. You must specify which model bike you are working on so we can provide the correct mounting adapters!
$ 149.95



Carb Rack Assembly Alignment Plate:

j177) Aftermarket carb rack ALIGNMENT PLATE. When you break the individual carbs out of the rack, one of the crucial re-assembly procedures is to make sure that all the carb bodies are in "perfect" alignment with each within the rack. This is critical, as mis-alignment of one carb body to another will result in different throttle valve opening positions between differing (adjacent) carbs that no amount of synch screw adjusting will ever remedy.

As you start installing the screws into the individual carb bodies (mounting them into the upper and lower carb rack bracket bars), the carb bodies will try to twist and "walk" from each other due to the torsional forces being applied to the screws and the precise alignment of the screw mounting holes.

Yamaha specifies the use of a flat piece of plate glass to perform this procedure.....the idea being, if you set the carb throats down against a perfectly flat surface, you can apply downward pressure onto the carb bodies to insure that the throats stay perfectly flat against the glass plate during re-assembly and tightening of the rack bracket screws, insuring accurate carb body alignments within the assembled rack.

This 1/2" thick flat plate serves this purpose, and also has a relief slot cut into the center of it to allow clearance for the throttle cable bracket linkage or the idle speed screw head, so that those items do not interfere with the re-assembly procedure (an inconvenient issue to deal with when using plate glass). Non-slip foot pads prevents the plate from trying to slide around while you're fiddling with the screws and the carb rack. Works for all XJ-series carbs.

NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOL IS AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.


HCP20990 Aftermarket carb rack re-assembly ALIGNMENT PLATE.
$ 29.95





Carb Cleaning Tools:

p1) Aftermarket CARB PASSAGES CLEANING WIRES KITS: these sets of small wire tip cleaners come in a handy aluminum flip-open case, and are an essential for probing and cleaning some of the smallest internal passages within the carb bodies to push out and free up solidified fuel "gunk" and other obstructions before blasting the passages with cleaner and compressed air. The #6 and #7 size wires are the only sizes small enough to fit into the tiny jet passages and emulsion tube holes and clean them properly (without the risk of "re-sizing" the hole by mistake). NOTE: even the smallest #6 wire is too large to clean the starter jet down in the bowl! For that task, you'll need to order the correct bowl starter jet drill bits listed further below.

HCP950 Carb Passages MINI CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET, contains 13 wires (sizes #6 - 26) and a small flat file.
$ 9.95

HCP951 Carb Passages MINI-PLUS CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET. Same as the MINI set above, but contains an extra 3 (each) of the #6, #7, and #8 size wires (the smallest ones) so even if you ruin one, you'll have lots of spares (being so thin, they're very easy to break!). The miniature file---which you don't really need---is not included in this set.
$ 11.95

HCP953 Carb Passages MAN-SIZE CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET contains 22 small wire tip cleaners, sizes #6-45, in a handy aluminum flip-open case.
$ 12.95




z7) Aftermarket wire BOWL STARTER JET CLEAN-OUT TOOLS. As you will quickly discover if you ever try to clean or rebuild your carbs, the tiny, non-removable starter jet that is stuck wa-a-a-y down at the bottom of a drilled passage in the carb bowl is next to impossible to clean. For one, did we mention that the jet opening is TINY? And did I also mention that it's stuck way down at the bottom of a small passageway, and basically unreachable? AND THEREFORE, NO ONE EVER REALLY EVEN ATTEMPTS TO CLEAN IT OUT? And that a clogged starter jet not only means trouble starting and idling, but that starter circuit is actually also involved in idle and off-idle performance? Well, how do you actually clean it? Even the tiniest cleaning rod in our carb passage cleaning wire sets (above) aren't small enough to fit through this starter jet (it is THE smallest jet-passage in the entire carb)...

Well, here's how you clean it: with these jet clean-out tools. Just big enough to get through the jet, but not big enough to ENLARGE the jet (that's a huge no-no), these high-speed steel STARTER JET DRILL BIT or the STARTER JET WIRE PROBE TOOL. The drill bits can be gently rotated (but never "pushed", as it will break), while the stiff pointed-tip wire probe tool can be twirled to dig through the toughest of crud. This is the only way to properly clean these starter jets.

NOTE: these are TINY drill bits, and will not chuck into a standard drill chuck. You have to use a mini pin-vise attachment or do it carefully by hand.

COMPARISON: these drill bits are a mere 1-1/2" long, and as such, will disappear below the top "plane" of the bowl as it goes down into the jet. You will have to use a pair of very slim needle-nose pliers to grip the tip of this drill bit and rotate it! The probe tools have a long piece of semi-rigid steel wire attached at the end of a hand-held "pen" stick.

The drill bits are harder to manipulate, but do a better job since they have a "cutting edge" on the tip.

The probe tools are easier to manipulate, but don't do quite as good a job since they do not have any type of "cutting edge" on the tip....but are still sharp enough to "pick" through most types of sludge and build-up in the jet.

NOTE: The 1980-81 XJ650 carb bowls should have removable bowl starter jets, which will make your life a lot easier!

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/43931


HCP2296 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT, for Hitachi carb bowls used on all XJ650 (except Turbo) models and all 1981-83 XJ750 models.
$ 13.95

HCP2299 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT, for Hitachi carb bowls used on all XJ750E-II and XJ750RL models.
$ 13.95

HCP12929 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET WIRE PROBE TOOL, for Hitachi carb bowls used on all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, all 1981-83 XJ750 models, and XJ750E-II and XJ750RL models.
$ 10.95


HCP2293 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT, for Mikuni carb bowls used on all XJ550 models, XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, and XJ900 N/FN, and F models, and Hitachi carb bowls used on XJ700 air-cooled engines.
$ 13.95

HCP12927 Aftermarket BOWL STARTER JET WIRE PROBE TOOL, for Mikuni carb bowls used on all XJ550 models, XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, and XJ900 N/FN, and F models, and Hitachi carb bowls used on XJ700 air-cooled engines.
$ 10.95



P.S. how do you know when your starter jet is really, truly, zestfully clean? One of two ways:

a) shine a strong penlight or mini flashlight into the bottom of the bowl, where this jet passage "intake" is located. Look through the top of the bowl down into the jet passage "outflow" passage (this is the passage that the brass suction tube in the bottom of the carb body actually fits down into). Focus your eye carefully on the jet opening and make sure it's clean. P.S. it helps to do all this while in a darkened area.........see the picture "starter-jet.jpg" on page 2 of this forum thread topic for a great image of what you want to see!:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/4050

and post #5 on this thread, the starter jets is quite visible on the lower left side of the image:

www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/i-think-i-know-why-the-sequel.116988


b) put the spray tip (you may have to gently shape the end of it to a fine point, see the video below) of a can of carb or brake cleaner into the intake opening of the starter jet and let rip a spray. A STEADY, FINE, POWERFUL STREAM OF FLUID WILL COME OUT OF THE OUTFLOW PASSAGE ON THE TOP OF THE CARB BOWL IF THE JET IS PERFECTLY CLEAN AND OPEN. I mean this stream will absolutely spit out a good 5-10 feet. If the stream isn't powerful and laser-like precise coming out of the jet, then the jet isn't zestfully clean.....


By the way, when using the spray-stream method of checking the jet, don't even THINK of putting your eye or face anywhere even NEAR the jet outflow path, unless you like a painful and potentially serious trip to the emergency room.



ft2) Aftermarket twisted-stem WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSHES. The greatest tool ever invented for cleaning bored and threaded holes, such as in carb bodies, float bowls, even master cylinder piston bores. Available in either 18-8 stainless steel or brass, these brushes not only help make the job of cleaning parts so much easier, but also insure that threaded passages are clean, clean, clean and less likely to strip or deform when fasteners are inserted once again. All brushes have a "finger-loop" in the end to make twisting action easier. Stainless brushes will last longer and can clean more aggressively, so be gentle when using them on aluminum carb bodies and bowls. Brass brushes are gentle on soft metals like carb bodies, but require more effort to produce a cleaner surface and wear out more quickly.


Stainless Steel Wire Bristle Brushes:

HCP1288SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 3mm diameter, useful for cleaning the needle entry port of the emulsion tube.
$ 3.95

HCP1406SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 4.5mm diameter, the right size for the internal passage within emulsion tube, and brake hose union bolt internal passages.
$ 4.25

HCP1407SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 5.5mm diameter, great for the idle mixture screw port threads, the air jet threads, the internal passage within the fuel supply pipes, and the carb bowl drain screw threads.
$ 4.95

HCP1408SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 8.0mm diameter, great for the throttle shaft bore and the emulsion tube bore within the carb body on all Hitachi and Mikuni carbs, and is also the correct size for the float bowl fuel outlet port on Mikuni carbs bowls (except XJ or XS1100 model bowls).
$ 5.95

HCP1409SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 9.5mm diameter, great for the float valve seat threaded bore in all Hitachi carb bodies, and the fuel supply pipe bores within the carb body on all Hitachi and Mikuni carbs.
$ 6.95

HCP1410SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, the choke plunger seat bore in the carb body, and the float valve seat bores in all Mikuni carbs.
$ 7.95

HCP2762SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 (North American models) master cylinders.
$ 8.75

HCP2912SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Maxim and XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
$ 8.95

HCP2764SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ550 Euro, XJ650 Euro, XJ650RJ Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front master cylinders.
$ 9.95

HCP2766SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 19.0mm diameter, not really useful for anything carb related, but a really meaty, beefy, big and bouncy brush that looks really impressive in your toolbox!
$ 10.50

HCPSS-SET Complete set of nine different STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSHES SET (all sizes except the 19.0mm), gives you all the sizes needed to clean your carbs, YICS port, and master cylinder bore (when that time comes).
$ 39.95


Brass-Wire Bristle Brushes

HCP1288BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 3mm diameter, useful for cleaning the needle entry port of the emulsion tube.
$ 3.75

HCP1406BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 4.5mm diameter, the right size for the internal passage within emulsion tube, and brake hose union bolt internal passages.
$ 3.95

HCP1407BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 5.5mm diameter, great for the idle mixture screw port threads, the air jet threads, the internal passage within the fuel supply pipes, and the carb bowl drain screw threads.
$ 4.50

HCP1408BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 8.0mm diameter, great for the throttle shaft bore and the emulsion tube bore within the carb body on all Hitachi and Mikuni carbs, and is also the correct size for the float bowl fuel outlet port on Mikuni carbs bowls (except XJ or XS1100 model bowls)..
$ 4.95

HCP1409BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 9.5mm diameter, great for the float valve seat threaded bore in all Hitachi carb bodies, and the fuel supply pipe bores within the carb body on all Hitachi and Mikuni carbs.
$ 5.75

HCP1410BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, the choke plunger seat bore in the carb body, and the float valve seat bores in all Mikuni carbs.
$ 5.95

HCP2762BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 (North American models) master cylinders.
$ 6.25

HCP2912BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Maxim and XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
$ 6.95

HCP2764BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ550 Euro, XJ650 Euro, XJ650RJ Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front master cylinders.
$ 7.95

HCP2766BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 19.0mm diameter, not really useful for anything carb related, but a really big, beefy, meaty, bouncy brush that looks really impressive in your toolbox!
$ 8.95

HCPBR-SET Complete set of nine different BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSHES SET (all sizes except the 19.0mm), gives you all the sizes needed to clean your carbs, YICS port, and master cylinder bore (when that time comes).
$ 37.95



ft6) Aftermarket plastic-handled CLEANING TOOTHBRUSHES are great for general cleaning and grunge removal, very handy to keep a few of these around. The garden-variety standard "headless" brushes are just like regular toothbrushes, while the deluxe "headed" style brushes feature additional rows of 135-degree angled brushes at the head (or "snout") of the brush, making it possible to reach into restricted areas and "scrub" smaller areas that the main body of the brush won't or can't reach.

These "headed" brushes are a great time saver and one of the most useful tools that we own......we start to get all panicky and break out in cold chills whenever we start running low on them! And once you try them, we'll wager you'll never go back to the standard style, either..............perfect for cleaning into all the nooks and crannies of carb bodies and bowls, brake calipers, inside oil pans, etc.


HCP9971 Aftermarket standard (headless) nylon-bristles CLEANING TOOTHBRUSH, 7" long, 3 columns wide by 7 rows deep.
$ 1.95

HCP12382NY Aftermarket deluxe "headed" nylon-bristles CLEANING TOOTHBRUSH, 7" long, 3 columns wide by 7 rows deep.
$ 3.95


HCP9970 Aftermarket standard (headless) brass bristle-wire CLEANING TOOTHBRUSH, 7" long, 3 columns wide by 7 rows deep.
$ 1.95

HCP12382BR Aftermarket deluxe "headed" brass bristle-wire CLEANING TOOTHBRUSH, 7" long, 3 columns wide by 7 rows deep.
$ 3.95


HCP9969 Aftermarket standard (headless) stainless steel bristle-wire CLEANING TOOTHBRUSH, 7" long, 3 columns wide by 7 rows deep.
$ 1.95

HCP12382SS Aftermarket deluxe "headed" stainless steel bristle-wire CLEANING TOOTHBRUSH, 7" long, 3 columns wide by 7 rows deep.
$ 3.95




fh14) Aftermarket VACUUM PISTON BORE HONE. In order to refinish the vacuum piston bore correctly, you'll need to restore and refinish the bore with a small-bore hone. This adjustable, 3-shoe cylinder bore hone adjusts all the way down in size to 7/8" (and all the way up to 2" in diameter, so it can also be used for your brake calipers, too!) and come with a set of 240-grit (medium) stones.

Replacement shoe sets are available in both medium (240) and fine-grit (400) finishes. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU PURCHASE A SET OF 400-GRIT STONES WHEN YOU BUY THE HONE, as you really need the super-fine stones to put the proper finish on this piston bore: you can first "clean-up" the bore with the provided 240-grit stones, and then change the shoes to the "polishing" 400-grit stones for a truly professional job.

NOTE: hones have a standard 1/4" round shank and can be operated manually or attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE! (brake fluid is a great lubricant).

Having the carb piston bore fully polished is an incredibly important task when rebuilding a set of carbs, as any restriction to the free and almost friction-less movement of the vacuum piston will create a variety of performance-related problems. You can review this issue (the vacuum piston "CLUNK TEST") at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/1640

and see a nice video of a clunking piston at:




And the reason you want your vacuum pistons to operate as closely as possible to no frictional resistance is because they must be able to do the following constantly, and if not, tuning and performance become troublesome or impossible:



and




You can further polish the bores with 600-, 800-, 1000-, 1200-, and 1500-grit FINISHING PAPERS listed below for a "blueprinted" mirror-finish. You can cut the finishing paper(s) into approximately 2" tall x 3-1/2" rectangular strips and "wrap" the finishing paper around the hone shoes to make the final polishing steps simple and consistent.

NOTE: do not EVER attempt to polish away any discoloration on the vacuum pistons! The pistons are actually aluminum with a brass-like anodized coating. A brief and gentle "wipe" with 1500- or 2000-grit finishing paper is all that is needed on the pistons themselves.

NOTE: hones have a standard 1/4" round shank and can be operated manually or attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE! (brake fluid is a great lubricant).

HCP9955 Aftermarket 3-shoe brake CALIPER CYLINDER HONE, comes with a set of 240-grit stones. Works on all XJ-series front or rear brake calipers.
$ 24.95

HCP9957 Aftermarket replacement set of three HONE SHOES, 240-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
$ 12.95

HCP9958 Aftermarket replacement set of three HONE SHOES, 400-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
$ 12.95




cps2) Aftermarket high-quality WET-OR-DRY FINISHING SHEETS. Since these don't contain "sand", we really can't call them "sandpaper", but you get the idea. A large assortment of ultra-fine finishing paper is just the trick to polish the vacuum pistons and piston bores in your carbs, or master cylinder and brake caliper bores, ridding them of any surface oxidation and minor imperfections that will create interference or friction and prevent the pistons from moving freely---causing all sorts of high-idle (and other problems) in your carbs, or dragging brakes in your calipers. Our recommendation is to start with the 400- or 600-grit paper and move up 200 grit at a time until you get the bores micro-polished to an incredible smooth finish. One 9.5" x 11" sheet of each size will be enough to do four carbs or one pair of calipers; use two sheets of the 5-1/2" x 11" super-fine grit paper.

Of course, this premium finishing paper is just the thing you'll need for prepping any painted surface for painting, too.


HCP8594 Aftermarket premium grade 400-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
$ 2.50

HCP8594SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 400-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 18.95


HCP8596 Aftermarket premium grade 600-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
$ 2.50

HCP8596SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 600-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 18.95


HCP8597 Aftermarket premium grade 800-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
$ 2.50

HCP8597SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 800-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 18.95


HCP8598 Aftermarket premium grade 1000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.50

HCP8598SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 10.95


HCP8599 Aftermarket premium grade 1200-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.95

HCP8599SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1200-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 14.95


HCP8600 Aftermarket premium grade 1500-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.95

HCP8600SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1500-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 14.95


HCP8601 Aftermarket premium grade 2000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
$ 1.95

HCP8601SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 2000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
$ 14.95



HCPSANDSET1 Your choice, mix-and-match, any 5 full-size sheets of 400-800 grit paper grades listed above.
$ 10.95

HCPSANDSET2 Your choice, mix-and-match, any 5 half-size sheets of 1000-2000 grit paper grades listed above.
$ 7.95



Other Carb Tools:


JIS Screwdrivers:

mt1) Almost every screw on these bikes are "JIS" design screws, JIS standing for Japanese Industrial Standards, and both the depth and design on the phillips-head "slot" is different than typical US slots. In a nutshell, JIS screws (which can be easily identified by the small punched single "dot" on the screw head, in-between two of the screw slots) have both deeper and "squarer" slots and thus can hold more torque than their rest-of-the-world counterparts. They also require a JIS screwdriver to take full advantage of, and to prevent rounding out the slots as typical phillips screwdrivers will do. The more "rounded" edges of a standard phillips-drive screwdriver cannot exert as much torque on the screw head (by design, actually) and will "cam-out" of the slots, taking some of the slot material with it.....and then you have what is affectionately known as a !!#&$!?**#! stripped out screw head!

So it might be a good idea to also invest in a set of quality JIS screwdrivers; trust me, they make a difference (and yes, they can be used on standard phillips-drive screws, too).

We offer these tools in three different quality grades and styles to meet your particular needs:

* Standard-Grade screwdrivers are a low-cost alternative that do a fine job in light-duty use.
* Mechanics-grade screwdrivers are a heavy-duty design and is recommended for the typical home mechanic or shop.
* Impact-grade screwdrivers feature a hardened “head” and an internal cam-drive that rotates the shaft about 12-degrees when struck by a hammer -----similar to the operation of an impact driver, but in a much more useful form. These drivers look, feel, and operate just like a mechanic-grade screwdriver above, but can also be given a sturdy “whack!” to help persuade frozen fasteners to give up their grip. Highly recommended when working on the carbs (the upper and lower rack bracket screws are a beast to remove without an impact driver ) or in any number of other situations when working on seized or rusted fasteners.


Basic JIS Screwdriver Sets:

HCP21127 Aftermarket JIS-standards STANDARD-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 3 drivers contains one each of standard-length #1, #2, and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdrivers, and this range of sizes will handle everything down to an M2 sized screw (that's tiny, smaller than the size of the petcock faceplate mounting screws) all the way up to the biggest screws commonly used on these bikes. These standard-grade screwdrivers all feature a comfortable gel-covered handle, black-chrome plated steel shafts, and magnetized drive tips.
$ 42.95

HCP17479 Aftermarket JIS-standards MECHANICS-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 3 drivers contains one each of standard-length #1, #2, and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdrivers, and this range of sizes will handle everything down to an M2 sized screw (that's tiny, smaller than the size of the petcock faceplate mounting screws) all the way up to the biggest screws commonly used on these bikes. These mechanics-grade screwdrivers all feature sturdy comfort-grip handles, chrome plated steel shafts, and magnetized drive tips.
$ 49.95

HCP23604 Aftermarket JIS-standards MECHANICS-GRADE SCREWDRIVER BITS SET. This set of 4 driver bits contains one each of 1/4” hex-drive bits in the #0, #1, #2, and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdriver bits, and this range of sizes will handle everything down to an M1 sized screw (that's tiny, smaller than the size of the petcock faceplate mounting screws) all the way up to the biggest screws commonly used on these bikes. These mechanics-grade screwdriver bits are approximately 1” long and are designed to be used in a 1/4” bit holder or similar..
$ 17.95



Carb Rebuild Screwdriver Sets:

HCP21183SET Aftermarket JIS-standard MECHANICS-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 3 drivers contains one each of the standard-length #2 and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdrivers, and a stubby straight-blade screwdriver that properly fits the pilot mixture screw slot. This range of sizes will handle everything down to an M3 sized screw all the way up to the largest screws found on the carbs. These mechanics-grade screwdrivers all feature sturdy comfort-grip handles, chrome plated steel shafts, and magnetized drive tips.
$ 54.95

HCP21184SET Aftermarket JIS-standard IMPACT-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 3 drivers contains one each of the standard-length #2 and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard impact screwdrivers, and a stubby straight-blade screwdriver that properly fits the pilot mixture screw slot. This range of sizes will handle everything down to an M3 sized screw all the way up to the largest screws found on the carbs. These mechanics-grade screwdrivers all feature sturdy comfort-grip handles, knurled chrome plated steel shafts, and “sure-grip” textured, magnetized drive tips. The inclusion of the impact drivers can make the breakdown of the carb rack much easier.
$ 74.95


Fuel System Service Screwdriver Sets:

These sets are the same as the Carb Rebuild Sets above, but also include the #1 sized phillips-drive JIS-tip screwdriver that will be useful when servicing the petcock.

HCP21185SET Aftermarket JIS-standards MECHANICS-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 4 drivers contains one each of the standard-length #1, #2, and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdrivers, and a stubby straight-blade screwdriver that properly fits the pilot mixture screw slot. This range of sizes will handle everything down to an M3 sized screw all the way up to the largest screws found on the carbs. These mechanics-grade screwdrivers all feature sturdy comfort-grip handles, chrome plated steel shafts, and magnetized drive tips.
$ 64.95

HCP21186SET Aftermarket JIS-standards IMPACT-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 4 drivers contains the standard-length #1 phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdriver, one each of the #2, and #3 size phillips-drive JIS-tip impact screwdrivers, and a stubby straight-blade screwdriver that properly fits the pilot mixture screw slot. This range of sizes will handle everything down to an M3 sized screw all the way up to the largest screws found on the carbs. These mechanics-grade screwdrivers all feature sturdy comfort-grip handles, knurled chrome plated steel shafts, and “sure-grip” textured, magnetized drive tips. The inclusion of the impact drivers can make the breakdown of the carb rack much easier.
$ 84.95


Full Service Screwdriver Sets:

HCP21187SET Aftermarket JIS-standards MECHANICS-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 6 drivers contains a set of standard-length of the #1, #2, and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdrivers, one each of the stubby #1 and #2 size phillips-drive JIS-tip screwdrivers, and a stubby straight-blade screwdriver that properly fits the pilot mixture screw slot. This range of sizes will handle everything down to an M3 sized screw all the way up to the largest screws found on the carbs. These mechanics-grade screwdrivers all feature sturdy comfort-grip handles, chrome plated steel shafts, and magnetized drive tips.
$ 99.95

HCP21188SET Aftermarket JIS-standards IMPACT-GRADE SCREWDRIVER SET. This set of 6 drivers contains a standard-length #1 JIS-tip screwdriver, one each of the #2 and #3 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard impact drivers, one each of the stubby #1 and #2 size phillips-drive, JIS-standard screwdrivers, and a stubby straight-blade screwdriver that properly fits the pilot mixture screw slot. This range of sizes will handle everything down to an M3 sized screw all the way up to the largest screws found on the carbs. These mechanics-grade screwdrivers all feature sturdy comfort-grip handles, knurled chrome plated steel shafts, and “sure-grip” textured, magnetized drive tips. The inclusion of the impact drivers makes the removal of stuck or seized fasteners much easier and more convenient. With this set you can rule the world in style!
$ 119.95



Individual JIS-standards Screwdrivers:

The #2 and #3 size phillips-drive screwdrivers fit the most commonly used size screws on the carbs, gauge clusters, etc.

HCP21181 Aftermarket straight-blade STUBBY SCREWDRIVER, short 1” shaft length, modified to properly fit the pilot mixture screw slotted head.
$ 19.95

HCP21130 Aftermarket size #1 JIS-standards STUBBY SCREWDRIVER, for m2-m4 sized screws, short 1” shaft length.
$ 18.95

HCP21131 Aftermarket size #2 JIS-standards STUBBY SCREWDRIVER, for m3-m5 sized screws, short 1” shaft length.
$ 19.95



HCP5900 Aftermarket size #1 JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER, for m2-m4 sized screws, standard 3” shaft length.
$ 14.95

HCP5901 Aftermarket size #2 JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER, for m3-m5 sized screws, standard 4” shaft length.
$ 17.95

HCP5902 Aftermarket size #3 JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER, for m6-m8 sized screws, standard 6” shaft length.
$ 21.95

HCP5903 Aftermarket size #4 JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER, for m8-up sized screws, standard 8” shaft length.
$ 24.95



HCP21135 Aftermarket size #2 JIS-standards IMPACT SCREWDRIVER, for m3-m5 sized screws, standard 4” shaft length.
$ 27.95

HCP21136 Aftermarket size #3 JIS-standards IMPACT SCREWDRIVER, for m6-m8 sized screws, standard 6” shaft length.
$ 29.95



HCP23600 Aftermarket size #0 JIS-standards SHORT SCREWDRIVER BIT , for m2 and smaller size screws. This 1” long bit fits in any standard 1/4” bit holder.
$ 4.95

HCP23601 Aftermarket size #1 JIS-standards SHORT SCREWDRIVER BIT , for m2-m4 size screws. This 1” long bit fits in any standard 1/4” bit holder.
$ 4.95


HCP23602 Aftermarket size #2 JIS-standards SHORT SCREWDRIVER BIT , for m3-m5 size screws. This 1” long bit fits in any standard 1/4” bit holder.
$ 4.95

HCP28218 Aftermarket size #2 JIS-standards LONG SCREWDRIVER BIT , for m3-m5 size screws. This 3” long bit fits in any standard 1/4” bit holder.
$ 6.95


HCP23603 Aftermarket size #3 JIS-standards SHORT SCREWDRIVER BIT, for m6-m8 size screws. This 1” long bit fits in any standard 1/4” bit holder.
$ 4.95

HCP28220 Aftermarket size #3 JIS-standards LONG SCREWDRIVER BIT, for m6-m8 size screws. This 3” long bit fits in any standard 1/4” bit holder.
$ 6.95



HCP28224 Aftermarket JIS-standards SHORT SCREWDRIVER BITS SET, contains one each of the #0, #1, #2, and #3 size short (1” long) bits.
$ 17.95

HCP28225 Aftermarket JIS-standards LONG SCREWDRIVER BITS SET, contains one each of the #2 and #3 size (3” long) bits.
$ 12.95

HCP28226 Aftermarket JIS-standards COMPLETE SCREWDRIVER BITS SET, contains a complete set of short and long bits: one each of the #0, #1, #2, and #3 short bits, and one each of the #2 and #3 size long bits.
$ 27.95




v) Aftermarket small parts TWEEZER. These 5" long, nickel-plated jewelers tweezers are small enough to reach into tight passages and have pointed tips to grab items easily and securely.

HCP1413 Aftermarket small parts TWEEZER.
$ 5.00



u) Aftermarket o-ring and seal PICK TOOL SET. A very handy set of 4 different style o-ring removal - dental-picks, in a variety of pick angles and styles, all in a handy plastic storage pouch. The HCP1411 picks are a high-quality, professional use style that feature individual pick shafts that interchange into a 5" long, knurled, easy-grip handle, and are small enough to fit easily into the tiny idle mixture screw bores and other such passages. The HCP9974 style feature four different individual picks, each secured into their own impact-resistant, sure-grip plastic handle.

HCP1411 Aftermarket set of four different o-ring and small oil seal PICKS, metal handles.
$ 22.95

HCP9974 Aftermarket set of four different o-ring and small oil seal PICKS, plastic handles, good inexpensive set.
$ 14.95



vv2) Aftermarket small parts NEEDLE FILES SET. This set of 12 miniature swiss files allows you to easily get into those tight spots with precise control. A variety of files----round, flat, triangle---all have easy-grip round knurled handles. Each file is approximately, 6" long. Works great for knocking the peening off the back of the original Mikuni throttle shaft screws before you attempt to remove them.

HCP9802 Aftermarket small parts NEEDLE FILES SET.
$ 19.95



it54) Aftermarket broken stud EXTRACTOR TOOL KIT. Common problem: you snap or shear off the head of a fastener, now what do you do? Prevent these situations from happening to you by using one of our anti-seize products when installing new bolts or studs!


HCP10302 Aftermarket 6mm BROKEN STUD EXTRACTOR......this is the correct size for both the exhaust headpipe studs and the intake manifold bolts in the cylinder head, which are the most common fasteners that you'll need to use these extractor tools on. You simply pound this extractor onto the stud, and then use an open-end wrench to twist it out. As long as you have a bit of the broken stud remaining outside of the cylinder head threaded hole (in other words, the fastener has not broken off "flush"), then this tool is what's going to save your day. Similar in concept to a "ez-out", but these tools have their "biting" surfaces on the inside of a socket-type housing, so that the hardened steel ridges bite into the stud and allow you to extract it. Also works great on screw or bolt heads that have had the drive slot ruined or the bolt head rounded off.
$ 69.95

HCP26979 Aftermarket complete STUD EXTRACTOR and INSTALLATION TOOLS SET. Complete set of 3 different size tools, these are an upgraded version of the “two locking nuts” method of stud extraction or installation, and their small size allows them to work easily in cramped spaces. Note that this type of tool requires that you have decent threads on the end of the stud: www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNH7u87dhng This set has the proper sized tools to install and remove exhaust manifold studs, cylinder head and cylinder jug studs, the long cylinder head-to-crankcase studs (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines), broken intake manifold bolts and many other threaded studs (or headless bolts) on the engine and drivetrain. Contains one each M6 x 1.00 pitch, M8 x 1.25 pitch, and a M10 x 1.25 pitch tool.
$ 29.95

HCP10301 Aftermarket complete STUD EXTRACTOR TOOLS SET. Complete set of 4 different size extractors, and these can be used with ratchet wrenches for ease of removal. These are “roller clutch” type removers that use internally locking rollers to grip and turn the stud. This type tool will damage the threads as part of the removal process, and although it’s possible to use them on broken threads (the smooth shank portion of the stud, even if that is all that is present i.e. the stud or bolt has snapped off and all that remains is the unthreaded portion), they don’t always work all that well on smooth surfaces…..but this also means that the can also be used on dowel pins and some guide collars. Note that these stud removers are much larger is physical size that the HCP26979 tools, which may present problems in restricted areas: www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE5VnScjRcI This set has the proper sized tools to remove exhaust manifold studs, broken intake manifold bolts, cylinder head and cylinder jug studs, the long cylinder head-to-crankcase studs (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X engines), and most other threaded studs (or headless bolts) on the engine and drivetrain. Contains one each of a 6mm and 8mm extractors (which can be used with 3/8" drive ratchets) and one each of a 10mm and 12mm extractors (which can be used with 1/2" drive ratchets). You simply pound the extractor onto the stud, and then use an appropriate sized ratchet wrench to twist it out. Comes in a molded storage case.
$ 79.95






c9) Hitachi & Mikuni carbs THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAPS. The soft aluminum bodies of the carbs can take a severe beating over the years, especially as it concerns their threaded holes. Steel is harder than aluminum, so you know what's going to distort, deform, or strip first...the threaded bore holes. The following professional quality tool-steel metric cutting taps will allow you to either "clean-up" or re-thread distorted or stripped threads in all metals, soft (aluminum) to hard (steel). THE TINY VERY FINE THREADS OF THE IDLE MIXTURE SCREW PORT ARE ESPECIALLY PRONE TO DAMAGE AND SHOULD BE "CLEANED" UP WITH A PASS OF A THREADING TAP.


NOTE: THE FOLLOWING TOOL KITS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.

HCP28194 Aftermarket carb body THREAD CHASER BASIC TAPS SET. This basic set of 6 taps contains all of the different sizes for the most commonly needed threaded holes on all Hitachi and Mikuni carb bodies. Almost all threaded will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired, especially to the smaller, more “fragile” threads on the mixture screw bores, the fuel and are jets threads, the bowl, hat, and bracket mounting holes, etc. Running thread taps thru all of these threaded holes in the carb bodies will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the upper and lower rack bracket holes, the float bowl attachment holes, the float bowl drain screw holes, the carb hat attachment holes, the Mikuni float valve seat bracket hole, Mikuni main jet needle retainer plate holes (inside the vacuum piston), all air jet and fuel jet holes, enrichment plunger lifter bracket holes, and throttle shaft butterfly valve mounting holes. Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. Note that unlike the complete taps set below (HCP28121), the taps for the Hitachi float valve seat and the choke plunger seat bores (on all Hitachi and Mikuni models) are not included in this set (those larger taps are what add significantly to the cost of the complete taps set). NOTE: due to the reality that you may use these tools only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
$ 89.95

HCP28121 Aftermarket carb body THREAD CHASER COMPLETE TAPS SET. This complete set of 9 taps contains all of the different sizes of threads found on all Hitachi and Mikuni carb bodies. Almost all threaded will exhibit some type of thread wear (distortion) or minor injury that should be repaired, especially to the smaller, more “fragile” threads on the mixture screw bores, the fuel and are jets threads, etc. Running thread taps thru all of the threaded holes in the carb bodies will not only make the re-assembly process easier, smoother, and more secure, but there is a certain satisfaction and surety that comes with having like-new threads that can only be described as “machinist porn” (those of you that know, will know what I mean!). Correct size taps will do the upper and lower rack bracket holes, the float bowl attachment holes, the float bowl drain screw holes, the carb hat attachment holes, the choke plunger seat holes, the Mikuni float valve seat bracket hole, the Hitachi float valve seat hole, Mikuni main jet needle retainer plate holes (inside the vacuum piston), all air jet and fuel jet holes, enrichment plunger lifter bracket holes, and throttle shaft butterfly valve mounting holes. Comes with a can of cutting fluid and a t-handle tap holder tool. NOTE: due to the expense of this kit, and the reality that you may use these tools only once, it is suggested that you use the tool rental option for this tap set. However, under the rental option, if you use the taps for actual thread tapping (cutting brand new threads in a newly drilled hole), then the return option is not allowed!
$ 139.95




HCP2398 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For use on all Mikuni idle mixture screw ports, and all Hitachi idle mixture screw ports with models using ultra-fine threaded idle mixture screws. NOTE: these threaded holes almost always need cleaning or re-tapping. Be careful when using these taps to make sure that you are cleaning and/or re-cutting the original threads, rather than any crossed/stripped threads that may be present. And beware the tiny needle tip hole at the bottom of the screw. Finally, note that the flat o-ring land (at the bottom of the screw hole) must not be damaged or gouged.......make sure that you do not run the tap in deep enough to damage that smooth land.
$ 12.95


HCP6335 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- all Mikuni carb bowl drain screw hole.
$ 12.95


HCP6336 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For the following holes:
- all Hitachi and Mikuni throttle shafts where the butterfly valve screw on
- all models petcock faceplate mounting screw holes.
$ 12.95


HCP28202 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Mikuni and Hitachi synch screw threads in the throttle shaft brackets, and Mikuni and Hitachi idle speed bolt threads in lower rack bracket.
$ 12.95


HCP2396 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes:

- Hitachi air jet cover plate hold-down screw hole
- Hitachi carb "hat" hold-down holes
- XJ550 and XJ650 gas tank emblem screw holes.
- XJ550 Mikuni carb bowl-to-body.
- XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 Mikuni carb float valve seat clamp hold-down screw.
- All XJ-series original petcock vacuum diaphram cover plate and (some models) fuel outlet plate screws
- All XJ-series (except XJ750 Seca and XJ750 Euro models with cable-operated master cylinder) front and 1981 XS1100 Midnight Special front master cylinder cover hold-down screws.
- All XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), and XJ750 Seca original petcock fuel outlet cover plate screws.

NOTE: the carb hat threaded holes almost always need cleaning or re-tapping.
$ 12.95



HCP2397 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes:

- Hitachi upper rack mount screw holes.
- Hitachi float bowl mount holes in carb body.
- Hitachi pilot fuel jet hole in carb body.
- All models: gas cap mounting screw hole in all XJ-series gas tanks.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 carb "hat" screws.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 carb choke bracket screw.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 carb upper rack mount screws.
- Mikuni XJ550 lower rack idle thumb screw bracket to lower rack bar.
- Mikuni XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 carb bowl-to-body screws.
- XJ1100 petcock drain screws.
- All XS1100 front master cylinder cover hold-down screws (except 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special).

NOTE: the gas tank cap mounting hole almost always needs chased or re-tapped (be careful about this when buying a used gas tank!).
$ 12.95



HCP2399 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes:

- Hitachi HSC32 air compensator jet holes.
- Hitachi lower carb rack mount screw holes.
- Hitachi pilot and main air jets port holes (in carb throat, below vacuum piston).
- Hitachi carb bowl drain screw hole.
- All models: gas tank mounting holes for the petcock.
- All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting holes.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 lower carb rack bracket screw holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port stud holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolt holes.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting holes are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP11028 tap below).
- XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolt holes.
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP11028 tap listed further below).
- Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
- All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolt holes.
- Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting hole.

NOTE: most of these threaded holes need chasing, including the carb bowl drain screw holes, especially if the drain screw was "frozen"; and the gas tank petcock and sending unit mounting holes, which almost always needs cleaning or re-tapping (be careful about this when buying a used gas tank!).
$ 12.95



HCP2400 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Hitachi float valve needle seat screw hole, and Mikuni starter / enrichment circuit (“choke”) brass plunger seat bore hole on all XJ550, FJ600, FZ600, YX600, XJ600, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, and XJ750-X carbs.
$ 17.95

HCP2401 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Hitachi starter / enrichment circuit (“choke”) brass plunger seat bore hole.
$ 19.95

HCP28133 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For the following holes: Mikuni starter / enrichment circuit (“choke”) brass plunger seat bore hole on all XJ900, XJ1100, and XS1100 carbs.
$ 23.95


HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
$ 17.95



NOTE: always use a proper thread-cutting oil or lubricant before using thread taps! Thin motor oils work fine when merely doing a "clean-up" thread chase; a real cutting fluid should be obtained if a threaded bore needs to be truly cut:

HCP2402 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into aluminum or other soft metal. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95

HCP2403 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into steel or other ferrous metals. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
$ 8.95



c9a) Hitachi & Mikuni carbs THREAD CHASER DIES. Unlike the thread taps listed above, these thread DIES are used to clean, restore, and repair threads on the threaded fasteners (screws, bolts, studs, etc.). These tools help restore that like-new feel to used bolts, and straighten and restore threads to allow for proper torque settings to be achieved and maintained. Unlike standard round dies, these dies feature cutting teeth within a standard “hex-nut” shape, so you can use a wrench or socket to hold the die and turn it over the fastener. Just like cleaning / chasing threaded holes with a tap, this task is easy to use, important to do, and when you’re done you’ll be glad you took the time to do the job properly! NOTE: these dies are not used to cut new threads (you need to use a “real” die for that purpose), and only to renew threads on non-hardened fasteners! Always lubricate the tool (or fastener) with a light oil or grease when using.


HCP28260 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m6 x 1.00 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a very common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95

the following
- Hitachi lower carb rack mount screws.
- Hitachi carb bowl drain screw.
- All models: gas tank mounting screws for the petcock.
- All models: gas tank fuel sending unit mounting bolts.
- Mikuni XJ550, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ1100 lower carb rack bracket screws.
- All XJ550 - XJ900 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head cam bearing cap bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head intake manifold bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head valvecover mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine side covers mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine oil pan mounting bolts.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolt holes (note: some of the mounting bolts are different size, and require the use of the larger HCP28261 die below).
- XJ700-X and XJ750-X cylinder heads and jugs coolant jacket bolts.
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have 2 studs on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with a single tunnel stud use the HCP28261 die listed below).
- Most models: upper crankcase to cylinder jugs stud.
- All models: cam chain tensioner mounting bolts.
- Some models: mechanical tachometer drive housing mounting bolt or stud.



HCP28261 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m8 x 1.25 pitch fasteners. Use on the fasteners for all of the applications listed below (and any other that is the same size; this is a common size fastener and there are many more applications than what is listed below). This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 6.95

- XJ550, FJ600, XJ600, FZ600, and YX600 Radian cylinder head long studs (in the upper crankcase).
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models cylinder head exhaust port studs.
- All XJ550 - XJ1100 and XS1100 models engine upper-to-lower crankcase cinch bolts (note: some of the mounting holes are a different size, and require the use of the smaller HCP28031 die above).
- Some models: cylinder head cam chain tunnel-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, for engines that have a single stud on both the front and rear of the tunnel (models with dual tunnel studs use the HCP28260 die listed above).
- Some models: cylinder head-to-cylinder jugs cinching studs, at the rear of the head (note these are not the cam chain tunnel studs.
- All shaft-drive models: middle gear output flange-to-crankcase bolts.
- XJ1100 and XS1100 models: middle gear drive housing-to-crankcase mounting bolts.


HCP28262 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m10 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 5.95

HCP28263 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.50 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 5.95

HCP28264 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIE, for m12 x 1.75 pitch fasteners. This is a very handy tool to have in your arsenal. Each:
$ 5.95


HCP28265 Aftermarket THREAD CHASER DIES SET, contains one each of the HCP28260, HCP28261, HCP28262, HCP28263, and HCP28264 chaser dies.
$ 21.95



Super-Penetrant Fluids and Lubricants:

Sometimes, the toughest part of working on a vehicle is battling the effects of time: seized fasteners, caused by rust, corrosion, and other factors, turns what should be a 5-minute effort into a 50-minute (or more) chore, complete with rounded-off, ruined, or snapped fasteners, e-z outs, heli-coil inserts, and more.........and that's just not right.

While the proper use of our various Anti-Seize products will prevent these nightmares from occurring in the future, you're stuck in the here-and-now, and the best way to handle these obstacles is to have the proper tools at the stand-by; and in the case of fastener seizure, the proper "tool" is a can or two of our SUPER PENETRATING LUBRICANTS at the ready; a couple of squirts, a little bit of time-----perhaps some heat for those really nasty situations----and you're on your way again, hopefully not too much worse for the experience.....

Great for use on all fasteners, fork tube cap bolts, intake and exhaust manifolds bolts, studs, and nuts, lock cylinder tumblers, or anywhere an un-cooperative fastener can be found. Can even be used to help un-seize frozen engines!

Be aware that these products are not your typical, garden-variety, run-of-the-mill "retail" type products; these are designed an used as industrial- and military-strength products, meaning they have special formulations that include a dollop more of the "good stuff" within them to solve the toughest seizure problems imaginable (the "good stuff" ingredients cost more, and it is those compounds that are left out of or reduced in concentration in "retail" level consumer products).

NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the Priority Mail level of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Therefore it may have to be shipped in a separate package from the remainder of your order, and will thus incur additional shipping charges.


HCP10331 Aftermarket standard-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 16-ounce aerosol can. Oil-based lubricant penetrates down into spaces of one-millionth of an inch to handle the most reluctant seizures. Actually dissolves the rust and corrosion that causes the seizure; lubricates and displaces moisture to prevent rust re-formation. This product is what we use and recommend for freeing stuck fork tube cap bolts and other such challenging fasteners.
$ 24.95

HCP11974 Aftermarket super-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 13-ounce aerosol can. Same as our standard-duty formula above, but also includes graphite to not only enhance and speed up the penetrant action, but also gets down into the pores of the metal for the greatest possible lubrication possible. The cat's-meow of penetrating fluids, can even be used to un-seize frozen engines or as an engine assembly lube! This fluid is also a great choice for use as a drive cable lubricant.
$ 26.95

HCP10333 Aftermarket extreme-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 16-ounce aerosol can. Same as our standard-duty formula above, but also includes liquid silicone to enhance and speed up the penetrant action. This product is also an exceptional choice for use as a control-cable lubricant.
$ 27.95




Carb Refinishing Tools:

Well, since you're going to spend the time and a lot of effort to make your carbs perform properly, why not also take them to "the final frontier"? Yes, performance is more important than appearance, but achieving a polished, "like-new" finish on your carb bodies is mostly just a labor of love, and time......rather than money.

Our special miniature POLISHING BRUSHES allow you to bring back the brilliant luster to the aluminum alloy carb bodies and bowls that makes them look showroom-fresh. Fitting into a standard high-speed dremel tool, these stiff bristle wire brushes not only remove the corrosion, discoloration, and oxidation that is typical of 30-year old carbs, but also leaves a smooth, sealed luster beauty that gives a truly professional touch to you restoration efforts.

These brushes can be used "as is", or, when combined with our coarse or fine-grit POLISHING POWDERS, makes the job that much easier and quicker. NOTE: in any case, plan on spending about 1-hour per carb to achieve a fully polished appearance.....it's tedious, but enjoyable, as you can easily see the progress as you go. ALSO.......perform the polishing procedure only after you have cleaned the carbs internally (via carb dip or other procedures), as many chemicals will react and dis-color the carb bodies!

As a final measure, we recommend spraying your newly polished bodies with our BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT.....it's fuel resistant and non-yellowing, and will allow your labors of love to retain their beauty for many years to come.


HCP16662 Aftermarket miniature POLISHING BRUSH, 1/8" shank stainless steel bristle wire high-speed brush quickly removes corrosion and surface imperfections without displacing metal. Depending on how badly the carbs are tarnished, figure on using 2 brushes per carb body. NOTE: always wear eye protection when using these brushes, as they will tend to "shed" bristle fragments as they are used. Each:
$ 4.95

HCP16662SET8 Aftermarket miniature POLISHING BRUSHES, set of 8:
$ 32.95


HCP11198 Aftermarket BULLETPROOF HIGH-GLOSS, 2-STAGE, FAST-DRYING CLEAR-COAT WITH HARDENER. Requires 2-hours drying time to handle, and requiring just 18-24 days to fully cure. Once fully cured this clear-coat is chemical, oil, and fuel resistant, making it ideal for use on gas tanks, carbs, etc. NOTE: this clear coat is not rated for high-heat applications on engines, brake calipers, or brake rotors. 12-ounce spray can. 1 can will do a full set of carbs.
$ 24.95
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